Quoted from Arcade:How do you still have fingerprints with that much hand sanding and no protection?
Clearly these hands have never done a days hard work
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to prime the cabinet.
This is the material bill for just the filler primer and tape.
Easy to spend over $200 just priming the Cabinet even with favorable pricing not even thinking about sand paper,razor blades,electricity,equipment etc.
Quoted from pintechev:You work so efficiently. You must have a great staff that helps you be so efficient
I have the best staff money can buy. None
Although I will say anyone that makes a product or provides a service as part of this process is a silent contributor.
The cabinet looks so nice after you've explained the pitfalls. Unpainted it is a work of art that I'd rather have over a Supreme pinball.
Wow! My wife and I are so excited and Honored to see this game be born again through the artists hand. Yes for most this game would be classified a basket case but the sentimental value and history makes it worth it and we are So very grateful Chris is taking on this challenge for us. Thank you Sincerely for sharing this journey with us and others!
The Mod Couple
Dave and Darcy
This is going to be an amazing process and experience for you to follow as your game is reborn @Yelobird.
Subscribed!
Atta boy yelobird.
This is my machine, and I’ve never played a tighter, nicer looking game.
Search: HEP Twilight Zone Black : pinside
You’ll love it-it’s amazing. He’s the best.
With just a quick light pass over the lower cabinet side I can help highlight the benefits and importance of the guidecoat.
If the primer were just in its natural state I would be sanding blind in essence.
The contrast of The guidecoat makes the highs and lows of the surface easily identifiable and will be my guide to properly sanding the cabinet nice and straight. Hence the term guidecoat.
Nice new wood still is not straight it has ripples and grain.
Few would spot either easily but if you know what you are looking at or for it is bothersome.
Congrats on the anniversary and HEP restore!
I mentioned this to my wife today. Today’s our 23rd. She’s been a supportive pinball wife but when I suggested HEP to celebrate our 25th she said ‘I don’t think that’s happening”.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Congrats on the anniversary and HEP restore!
I mentioned this to my wife today. Today’s our 23rd. She’s been a supportive pinball wife but when I suggested HEP to celebrate our 25th she said ‘I don’t think that’s happening”.
Happy anniversary anyway
Now I have the future cabinet in order and curing I can focus on the playfield.
The existing playfield looks ok at a glance I could work with it
Definitely have seen and done worse.
The highlights would be the typical stuff. Ground in dirt,ball drop damage, insert bordering a little vertical cracking here and there.
It has been drilled for a third magnet and there is some cracking around the original magnet below that.
The most troubling thing without full teardown at a glance is the mini playfield.
That is cracked to a point that it really is not worth salvaging because the inserts themselves are affected as well.
When they plank like this and then the dirt gets ground in it really equals the following process
Level surface then close to total repaint.
The circles,the lettering the gradients in the pyramid could easily burn many hours of time and material and the end result would still not be true perfection.
That is a process I don’t mind doing when there are no other alternatives but I save it for those situations as well.
What I will do in this case since the game is already been upgraded to the third magnet including the ball guides is utilize a true factory third magnet playfield.
I have done many TZs over the years many different ways but knowing how special this game and process is to the owner I feel comfortable gifting a more appropriate spare set to the cause.
It will need a level of restoration on par with the original in the game but it is more ideal for several reasons which I will highlight.
On a true factory third magnet game we have the following.
A natural wood border that is purposely offset.
image (resized).jpg
A true pocket for the magnet assembly
image (resized).jpg
Green color on the insert surrounds leading to the main ramp.
image (resized).jpg
A more gradient heavy grayer door panel. image (resized).jpg
Green lock insert.
image (resized).jpg
Sticker on the spiral although I will eliminate that during the rework because not all highlights are good just technical.
image (resized).jpg
One other advantage besides building a more technically and historically correct game is it will allow the playfield restoration process to be done independently of the teardown and parts reconditioning which means I can more thoroughly address both without impact.
This is a great thread to watch - love the documentation of the process and the background behind the decisions you’re making.
Marc
Playfield set is cleaned with two separate cleaners.
One is water based and removes any organic or natural occurring dirts or contaminants that are water based.
The other is solvent based and removes what the eater based cleaner cannot which would be oil and solvent based contamination’s. C073F395-9B6E-4059-9B87-E904577A0340 (resized).jpeg
Playfield is as clean as it can get from this method so other methods will be used to take care of anything remaining.
image (resized).jpg
Now I will clean the holes and do an initial sanding on the backside
When things like wax are running down into the holes it is ugly sure but it also creates a potential for adhesion failure. image (resized).jpg
I will run through each hole with a steel round brush chucked up in a drill.
image (resized).jpg
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