This method allows for full decal coverage of the plastic, if desired.

- fully cut, drill, and sand edges of plastic
- cut to shape, remove one side of the protective layer, and apply adhesive sheet to face do decal before final cut of decal perimeter
- do the same with clear vinyl, but on underside of decal for protection (in other words sandwich the print)
- cut out decal (works best with backlighting)
- peel protective layer from adhesive sheet and apply decal to plastic, and use a felt tip squeegee to ensure full and even even adhesion.
- use razor knife to cut decal where holes are from the backside of the plastic (but a slice in the decal through the hole, then use a turning sawing motion with the hole guiding your knife to get a clean cut)

Note that when you print your graphic, it should have color everywhere and no white circles or other shapes where cut outs or holes will be. These never line up perfectly in the end.

Also, when you drill the holes in the plastic, there is nothing special you need to do. Just be sure to have a sacrificial board underneath so that the plastic doesn’t flex around the exit.

Finally, I use a hand air grinder or Dremmel tool with small cutting disks and drum sanding bits for cutting and shaping the plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZ5VUQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759SV64G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image

You don't want cheap photo paper, IMO. These papers often look blotchy when backlit. You want a nice quality paper that has an even textured appearance when you hold it up to the light. I use Epson ultra gloss or presentation matte depending upon the finish I want.

As long as you have a nice paper with a smooth (not splotchy) appearance then you are good. Typically, I don't equate "cheap" as dr_nybble mentioned with smooth and even appearance. In my experience, while "cheap" may convey thin and more transparent, it is typically not a smooth and not as bright of a white. However, I've obviously not tried everything.

Regarding the adhesive sheets, I don't have any plastics I'm working on now to show the process, but I've made and sold dozens of them for a variety of pins using this methodology (I don't make full plastic sets this way - too much work, but I do make singles that have broken or custom pieces for certain games). You are correct in that it is an extremely thin double-sided adhesive layer. It comes with a protective sheet on both sides. You removed one side of the protection to expose the adhesive surface which you apply to your artwork (you just cut the rough shape out of one of the sheets with scissors). I do this using a felt tipped plastic squeegee as I kind of roll the sheet on the graphic from one side to the other. Then after you've done everything else (e.g. apply the clear vinyl on the bottom side of the artwork to protect the paper and seal it from the open air which may yellow it or degrade over time) and cut out the decal's shape, you then remove the protective layer on top to expose the adhesive which you stick onto the underside of the plastic, again using the felt tipped squeegee. FYI, you can make your own by just using some piece of plastic like a thick credit card and getting a $1 sheet of adhesive felt at Hobby Lobby.

If you want to try it out without buying an entire package PM me with your name and address, and I'll mail you a 4" x 8" piece of it. I'm actually on my second package now, at for some reason the most current one I bought actually adheres more smoothly than the first package I purchased (which I like).

Here is a pic of one I have installed on my JP made this way (there is no lighting under this one besides the pop).
IMG_2747.JPG

Curious at how that would work. Most plastics have a white coating on the graphic on the bottom side. If the film is opaque white then it would probably work well. If it is more clear then probably not.

Just to clarify, the double sided adhesive sheets are not vinyl and the clear vinyl is single sided adhesion.

It definitely kills some of the vibrancy, but I've had mixed results. The second package I bought performed much better than the first. It will never be 100% clear, but for most of what I've done it performs well when backlit and not really noticeable from the player's perspective unless you are looking for it.

Also, that is not vinyl, but something else. I don't know if anyone makes such a thing as double-sided adhesive clear vinyl, that would be thick but would definitely be more transparent. The single-sided vinyl I use delivers excellent results for all of my decal making: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759SV64G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image

Yes, it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZ5VUQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image

I use it for all kinds of plastics and decals, large and small. I use to use thin double-sided tape until I found this - it's been a real life saver for my applications and mods I sell.

You know what, my first set had the cutting grid and they were more cloudy. My second set does not have the cutting grid and it is much better (I ordered the same item both times, just figured that changed). PM me with your name and address and let me send you one of my sheets so you can see the difference.

So, here is the package I have now. Completely white on one side and blue logo on the other (no cut lines).

I just checked my two Amazon orders, and they are exactly alike. The pick on Amazon shows the grid version.

What does your label look like, any differences?
IMG_2799 (resized).JPGIMG_2800 (resized).JPG

FYI, I've used Upkick a multitude of times for cutting my custom plastics over the last several months, and they do an excellent job. I highly recommend them.

While I won't say exactly since pricing has been on a per quote basis by project, what I will say is they were by far the best price after I checked several local shops and a couple of well known pinball plastic makers I discovered here on Pinside. I made my own outlines in Illustrator, converted to PDF, and they took it from there. I've done four orders with them since March and have another I'll be sending them in the next week or two.

I was previously making my plastics by hand using primarily pneumatic cutters/grinders, and then later moved to a CNC machine but still would have to hand sand then flame polish the edges. The time, the mess, the effort, absolutely one of my least favorite things to do as a mod maker. As a matter of fact, I needed a one off piece this week and after not getting motivated after two days to go out in the garage and knock it out, I just placed an order with UpKick, and I'll have it in a couple of days far better than I could have done myself.

If you have pricing questions or want to ask anything else, I suggest you do it firsthand by contacting them at [email protected]

Kind of hard to photograph, but here is an example of 3 of the pieces they've done for me. Crystal clear, very precise cuts, and very clean/smooth edges. For scale, the large arc piece is about 8" wide. Challenge to everyone to see who can be first to correctly identify what pin these are for (Hint: while all 3 of these are custom, the shape of one of them is the same shape of a metal piece that comes installed in the game).
IMG_6353 (resized).JPG

It is a .093" thick acrylic of some sore (they may be able to provide more detailed information). Originally they used a thicker piece (.125" I think) but I suggested/asked for a different material about the same thickness as OEM plastics, so they now make everything for me using the .093" material (they are very accommodating). They also did some PETG tests for me using material that I typically use, but it didn't come out as nice (rougher edges). The acrylic is clearer and far less susceptible to scratching in my experience (i.e. it is a harder material than PETG), so I went all in with the acrylic and haven't looked back. Some will say that you should only use PETG as acrylic might break, but the pieces I've had done are plenty flexible and durable. I've put them through the ringer in my own testing with balls hitting the edges, dropping weight on them, flexing them, etc. and the have held up perfectly for me and the dozens of people I've sold them to (not a single issue has been reported).

BTW, they can also do thicker material and colored materials for plastic protectors and other custom applications.