(Topic ID: 73794)

My guide to making your own reproduction plastics.

By nandemoguy

7 years ago


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  • 179 posts
  • 90 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 days ago by Timmo
  • Topic is favorited by 359 Pinsiders

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There are 179 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Is that stuff double sided adhesive?

Yes, it is: amazon.com link »

I use it for all kinds of plastics and decals, large and small. I use to use thin double-sided tape until I found this - it's been a real life saver for my applications and mods I sell.

#152 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, it is: amazon.com link »
I use it for all kinds of plastics and decals, large and small. I use to use thin double-sided tape until I found this - it's been a real life saver for my applications and mods I sell.

This is what I used. Tried 3 different sheets out of the pack to see if I get lucky. They all look foggy. The glue is in white streaks

Would’ve thought it would be clear for $32 worth of sticky paper
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#153 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

This is what I used. Tried 3 different sheets out of the pack to see if I get lucky. They all look foggy. The glue is in white streaks
Would’ve thought it would be clear for $32 worth of sticky paper
[quoted image]

You know what, my first set had the cutting grid and they were more cloudy. My second set does not have the cutting grid and it is much better (I ordered the same item both times, just figured that changed). PM me with your name and address and let me send you one of my sheets so you can see the difference.

#154 2 years ago

So, here is the package I have now. Completely white on one side and blue logo on the other (no cut lines).

I just checked my two Amazon orders, and they are exactly alike. The pick on Amazon shows the grid version.

What does your label look like, any differences?
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#155 2 years ago

I don’t have pictures handy but had luck reverse printing plastics art to white backed vinyl decals at FedEx. I think the decals I printed were fairly reasonable price-wise and it was fairly easy to upload the graphics file and then go pick up the decals in a few hours.

https://www.fedex.com/en-us/printing/marketing-materials/decals.html

I used the same graphics file to create a vector file to have a company laser cut the plastics and then attached the decals to these.

The biggest pain was cutting the vinyl and luckily I printed two vinyl sheets as I screwed up the cutting on the first sheet. And the plastics I had cut ending up being too thin, but I had doubles of these too and doubled up the plastics so that they would sit flat in the machine. Next time I’ll have thicker plastics cut.

The overall cost was still much less than the going rate for a reproduced set, but in my case reproductions weren’t available and so I had no choice but to do them myself. If anyone’s interested, I can post a photo of them.

#156 2 years ago

Here’s a photo of the new ones installed (lites aren’t lit on upper ones) and one of the original gummy, aged ones.

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#157 2 years ago

Those look really nice!

1 month later
#158 1 year ago

Maybe I missed it here in the thread but what’s the best way to address the clear plastic edge of the plastics. I scanned the plastics I have and cleaned them up but there is obvious yellow edge on the outside. Im assuming after printing I just cut to the edge of the actual artwork and center it on the plastic so it no longer has the yellow portion?

5 months later
#159 1 year ago

Subribed

#160 1 year ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

Maybe I missed it here in the thread but what’s the best way to address the clear plastic edge of the plastics. I scanned the plastics I have and cleaned them up but there is obvious yellow edge on the outside. Im assuming after printing I just cut to the edge of the actual artwork and center it on the plastic so it no longer has the yellow portion?

I am sure this is too late now, but you have to do it that way, typically you use a white-backed decal so there isn’t a clear area. Cut the decal and center it.

I have some pics of the OP’s Process to cut the plastic, scan/fix the plastic and apply the decal on my flash at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/it-was-supposed-to-be-a-simple-flash-restore/page/4#post-5502307

4 months later
#161 1 year ago

We have a laser cutter that we use to make replacements for broken plastics. If you would rather not cut them my hand, contact us at upkickpinball at gmail and we can discuss tracing your old ones and cutting them for you. I haven't tried the decals yet though. We usually just make the protectors. Note that our machine can only cut up to 20" long sheet of acrylic.

Here's an example from our shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/03760-doctor-who-dalek-slingshot-plastic-protectors

Elizabeth

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#162 1 year ago

Following

4 months later
#163 10 months ago

Subbed

7 months later
#164 68 days ago
Quoted from lizzyd:

We have a laser cutter that we use to make replacements for broken plastics. If you would rather not cut them my hand, contact us at upkickpinball at gmail and we can discuss tracing your old ones and cutting them for you. I haven't tried the decals yet though. We usually just make the protectors. Note that our machine can only cut up to 20" long sheet of acrylic.
Here's an example from our shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/03760-doctor-who-dalek-slingshot-plastic-protectors
Elizabeth
[quoted image]

FYI, I've used Upkick a multitude of times for cutting my custom plastics over the last several months, and they do an excellent job. I highly recommend them.

#165 68 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I've used Upkick a multitude of times for cutting my custom plastics over the last several months, and they do an excellent job. I highly recommend them.

What do they charge?

#166 68 days ago

following

#167 68 days ago
Quoted from tfduda:

What do they charge?

While I won't say exactly since pricing has been on a per quote basis by project, what I will say is they were by far the best price after I checked several local shops and a couple of well known pinball plastic makers I discovered here on Pinside. I made my own outlines in Illustrator, converted to PDF, and they took it from there. I've done four orders with them since March and have another I'll be sending them in the next week or two.

I was previously making my plastics by hand using primarily pneumatic cutters/grinders, and then later moved to a CNC machine but still would have to hand sand then flame polish the edges. The time, the mess, the effort, absolutely one of my least favorite things to do as a mod maker. As a matter of fact, I needed a one off piece this week and after not getting motivated after two days to go out in the garage and knock it out, I just placed an order with UpKick, and I'll have it in a couple of days far better than I could have done myself.

If you have pricing questions or want to ask anything else, I suggest you do it firsthand by contacting them at [email protected]

Kind of hard to photograph, but here is an example of 3 of the pieces they've done for me. Crystal clear, very precise cuts, and very clean/smooth edges. For scale, the large arc piece is about 8" wide. Challenge to everyone to see who can be first to correctly identify what pin these are for (Hint: while all 3 of these are custom, the shape of one of them is the same shape of a metal piece that comes installed in the game).
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#168 68 days ago

What type of plastic is it?

#169 68 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

What type of plastic is it?

It is a .093" thick acrylic of some sore (they may be able to provide more detailed information). Originally they used a thicker piece (.125" I think) but I suggested/asked for a different material about the same thickness as OEM plastics, so they now make everything for me using the .093" material (they are very accommodating). They also did some PETG tests for me using material that I typically use, but it didn't come out as nice (rougher edges). The acrylic is clearer and far less susceptible to scratching in my experience (i.e. it is a harder material than PETG), so I went all in with the acrylic and haven't looked back. Some will say that you should only use PETG as acrylic might break, but the pieces I've had done are plenty flexible and durable. I've put them through the ringer in my own testing with balls hitting the edges, dropping weight on them, flexing them, etc. and the have held up perfectly for me and the dozens of people I've sold them to (not a single issue has been reported).

BTW, they can also do thicker material and colored materials for plastic protectors and other custom applications.

#170 67 days ago

I second using Upkick. I’ve used them for plastic protectors for a Domino, an F14, and a Diner. All were top notch quality.

Alberto

1 month later
#171 28 days ago

following

#172 28 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I've used Upkick a multitude of times for cutting my custom plastics over the last several months, and they do an excellent job. I highly recommend them.

Pinball life has a laser cutter that can cut PETG in 2 thicknesses. Contact [email protected] for a quote, very good prices.

#173 28 days ago

Has anyone done this with a Punk! I’m looking for a set of plastics and my center plastic is missing part of it.

#174 28 days ago

I don't have any trouble cutting replacement plastics. My issue is that the image looks kind of washed out when I use waterslide decals. Has anyone experimented with using translucent paints or perhaps silkscreen?

Here is a pic of my Flash with a replacement graphic. Its not too bad when the lights are off but when they are on you can see the black is not nearly as black as the original. I was thinking of something like silkscreening or painting the black layer on, then using a decal but the difficulties in lining them up perfectly seems like it would cause a problem.

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#175 28 days ago

i think i remember someone experimenting with adding additional layer a the back of the decal to help defuse some of the GI list and having it less washed out.

#176 27 days ago

Made this plastic for bally radical!. Drew the black on first , then airbrushed the other colors over the black , then airbrushed white acrylic over everything. Not perfect but good enough for me.

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#177 27 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I don't have any trouble cutting replacement plastics. My issue is that the image looks kind of washed out when I use waterslide decals. Has anyone experimented with using translucent paints or perhaps silkscreen?
Here is a pic of my Flash with a replacement graphic. Its not too bad when the lights are off but when they are on you can see the black is not nearly as black as the original. I was thinking of something like silkscreening or painting the black layer on, then using a decal but the difficulties in lining them up perfectly seems like it would cause a problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Printer I bet.

I have a Dell laser at home but do my serious printing at work. We have a 30k network copier/printer that lays down SERIOUS black prints, makes my Dell printer look like a $50 inkjet from Walmart.

#178 26 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

My issue is that the image looks kind of washed out when I use waterslide decals.

Others have also noted this. This retheme project did it this way: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/phoenix-retheme-project-the-black-hole#post-6499741

I have a xerox laser printer that prints black well. It may make sense to search out a local shop with a better printer.

Robert

#179 26 days ago

I have doubled up on the colored waterslide decal before I apply the white backing. The colors become more vivid and the black quite opaque. I have been very happy with the end results.

However, the artwork on that Flash piece is more detailed than any piece I’ve done. It might be a challenge to line up the second image.

There are 179 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.

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