My First Restoration: Street Fighter! or: this thing should be dead

(Topic ID: 138756)

My First Restoration: Street Fighter! or: this thing should be dead


By uncivil_engineer

2 years ago



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  • 100 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by uncivil_engineer
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There are 100 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 months ago

I don't know what size the hole is but would something like these work? I think their usually called binding screws. The local farm store used to have a drawer of them for fixing broken rivets on saddles and leather.

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#52 8 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

The problem is I don't have a press to install the rivets. However, I am beginning to thing rivets would be the best answer.
hmm.... I may have space issue.

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#53 8 months ago

Great progress!

#54 8 months ago

I managed to squeak out a little progress last night.

While this playfield is in a lot better shape than my old one, it still has it's issues. The worst is the paint that has flaked off round the car bash window.IMG_6257 (resized).JPG

My plan is to airbrush in some blue acrylic I mixed up to more or less match the blue on the playfield. Then I am going to tape off and airbrush in some black to match the border. After I get the paint down, I am going to wax the entire playfield to seal in the paint.

First lets tape it off...IMG_6262 (resized).JPG
The nice thing about working with an airbrush is that it gives you a lot of control over where the paint is going, so you don't have to tape off the whole world before you shoot paint.

It didn't take long to put down the coat of blue.
IMG_6264 (resized).JPG

Then end result looks better, some of the remaining bare spots will be covered by black paint. The hardest part is going to be masking off the black areas. I am using using createx acrylic. It holds down pretty well after being heat set, but my base is not exactly stable, so I have to use low tact tape to mask over the blue before I shoot the black. I am hoping to get the black down sometime this weekend, and then I get to start rebuilding the playfield!
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#55 8 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I managed to squeak out a little progress last night.
While this playfield is in a lot better shape than my old one, it still has it's issues. The worst is the paint that has flaked off round the car bash window.
My plan is to airbrush in some blue acrylic I mixed up to more or less match the blue on the playfield. Then I am going to tape off and airbrush in some black to match the border. After I get the paint down, I am going to wax the entire playfield to seal in the paint.
First lets tape it off...
The nice thing about working with an airbrush is that it gives you a lot of control over where the paint is going, so you don't have to tape off the whole world before you shoot paint.
It didn't take long to put down the coat of blue.

Then end result looks better, some of the remaining bare spots will be covered by black paint. The hardest part is going to be masking off the black areas. I am using using createx acrylic. It holds down pretty well after being heat set, but my base is not exactly stable, so I have to use low tact tape to mask over the blue before I shoot the black. I am hoping to get the black down sometime this weekend, and then I get to start rebuilding the playfield!

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1 week later
#56 7 months ago

Woo hoo! I got the black on.. First the mask, and then the color. 14B06812-871B-4B37-8AE6-75F69F8DD336 (resized).jpeg
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Since I’m not going to clear coat the playfield, this will be protect by a good coat of wax.

#57 7 months ago

So I made some major progress today: I replaced the car in the lower playfield!

I know some folks have been asking about how to do this, so I thought I would take the time to document the replacement of the stock car shell with in my case, a die-cast Lexus IS300.

First of all a look at the plunger assembly:IMG_6322 (resized).JPG

Basically, it is just a metal rod with a rubber guard on the front. When you defeat a fighter, the lower playfield lights up, and the lower flipper becomes active. Then you can hit the car until the back of the rod (not shown) breaks a beam of light, signaling you have beaten the car crush challenge.

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The stock setup is a very light weight car shell that attaches to the rod at the front. Most of these break right across the front where they attach to the rod. The first thing you should take note of is the fact that the back of the car is missing. When the car gets pushed back, it has to pass over the rod supports until the 'winner' light is revealed. So no matter what car you use, you are going to have to hollow out the back.

So here is my car:
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I picked it because it most closely resembles the car on the back glass. I bought it at a craft store for $7. I also saw them at Tractor Supply hardware for about $4 each. When you pick a car, it needs to be approximately the same size as the stock shell.

As you can see, it will take quite a bit of work to get it to fit.
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My car was pretty easy to take apart, as it was only held together with two screws. Then I set about to cutting the rear out of the car with my dremmel cut-off tool.
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The bottom of the car will also have to be cut and discarded so it will clear the rod supports.
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After I cut off the back of the car, I re-assembled the interior of the car, using epoxy to hold everything into place. I then cut away the interior at the back of the car so it will clear the shaft support, and allow the shaft to go down the middle of the car. You can also see where I have cut away the front of the car to allow the rod to pass through it.IMG_6335 (resized).JPG

So at this point I had to make a decision: Do I pass the rod completely through the car, and attach the car shell tot he rear of the bumper, or do I sandwich the car shell between the rod attachment, and the front bumper?Option 1Option 2

I decided it would be a better fit if I passed the rod completely through the car and used lock nuts to attach the shell from the inside. From there I had to deiced how I was going to attach what was left of the bottom of the car so the wheels touched the ground, and allowed the shell to roll down the playfield. This is more important than you think. The die-cast car shell is much heavier than then stock shell, and to get it to reset correctly, it has to roll freely on the playfield. I don't think it would work if you just suspended the heavier shell from the bash bar. I ended up using a combination of zip ties and small self tapping screws to hold the bottom of the shell on.IMG_6347 (resized).JPG

The zip tie is wrapped around the bash rod, while the screws just go into the plastic.

I then test fit everything on the board, and discovered the car would not go back far enough to trigger the optical switch. I ended up moving the switch assembly up about a half inch. From what I have read, moving the switch is pretty common when you do this mod.
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So there you have it, all put together and ready to go back into the game! Hopefully it will hold up to the beating it will take when the pinball strikes the bash rod.
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3 weeks later
#58 6 months ago

Damn that is impressive! Well done.

#59 6 months ago

How far down does the car come when the mode is finished? Mine seems to come down only part of the way, not the full distance

#60 6 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

How far down does the car come when the mode is finished? Mine seems to come down only part of the way, not the full distance

I finally got to test this setup today, and the shaft is binding up, and it won’t reset reliably. I’ll report back when I get it working right.

#61 6 months ago

I do have about 90% of the playfield back together.2E033903-F652-46F2-A85F-F1946DA681B9 (resized).jpeg

Next is the coin door...507C704F-2DC7-48A5-9B86-0ED68C1CC6DB (resized).jpeg

#62 6 months ago

IT LIVES!!! After two years, I finally played a game on it.

There are a couple of issues I have to work out still with the playfield.

1. Weak flippers.. even at 6 degrees, it’s really hard to get the ball up the right ramp.

2. The car bash still doesn’t reset reliably. I may have to replace the reset springs.

3. The coin door restoration is not going as well as I hoped. I don’t think those doors are painted, I think it is powdered coat. My wire brush on a drill barely made a scratch in it.
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#63 6 months ago

Keep me posted on the car crunch as mine only comes down part of the way on reset.
There is a different coil to get for the left flipper as the standard flipper from the manual just won't get the ball up the right ramp.
Looks good otherwise!

#64 6 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

IT LIVES!!! After two years, I finally played a game on it.
There are a couple of issues I have to work out still with the playfield.
1. Weak flippers.. even at 6 degrees, it’s really hard to get the ball up the right ramp.
2. The car bash still doesn’t reset reliably. I may have to replace the reset springs.
3. The coin door restoration is not going as well as I hoped. I don’t think those doors are painted, I think it is powdered coat. My wire brush on a drill barely made a scratch in it.

Quoted from allsportdvd:

Keep me posted on the car crunch as mine only comes down part of the way on reset.
There is a different coil to get for the left flipper as the standard flipper from the manual just won't get the ball up the right ramp.
Looks good otherwise!

My car crunch wouldn't reset or get struck properly by the pinball. I replaced the springs and it's working great now.

In terms of the left flipper coil. What coil # you guys have installed? Both my left + right flippers are A-25959

#65 6 months ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

My car crunch wouldn't reset or get struck properly by the pinball. I replaced the springs and it's working great now.
In terms of the left flipper coil. What coil # you guys have installed? Both my left + right flippers are A-25959

Mine are both A-25959s, with new coil sleeves.

#66 6 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Mine are both A-25959s, with new coil sleeves.

Mine is having a hard time reaching the top of the right ramp as well. New sleeves too. Complete shop job, top and bottom removed and cleaned.

So I'm wondering if it's the coil?

#67 6 months ago

Maybe statictrance or latenite04 could chime in here with some of their expertise? I'm curious what coil they have on their left flipper as well...

#68 6 months ago

My flipper coils are different. Left is A-29876 and Right is A-25959. I don't know if they are correct but I've never had an issue with making a ramp in the 12 years I've owned it. When my car stopped resetting changing the springs and cleaning the oxidation on the rod got it working again. I just picked up the harbor freight spring pack and found one that was close. Good luck, the machine is looking great.

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#69 6 months ago

This was in the front of my manual. It looks like 29876 is correct for the left.

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#70 6 months ago

Ok, I went through my parts stash, and found an A-29876. My playfield is made up from parts from two different playfields. It appears one of them was setup with the 29876 on the left side, and the other had the 25959 on the left side. When I built up my final playfield, I used the factory setup of a 29595 on both sides. I will swap out the coil on the left side and see if that makes a difference.

#71 6 months ago

Thanks for the help latenite04 !!

Anyone know where to get this specific coil? (Preferably with cheap shipping)

Sorry didn't mean to derail the thread

#72 6 months ago

Ok, I installed a 29876 in my machine tonight. It plays a lot better. I even find hitting the Guile ramp easier.

I also swapped out the car reset springs for what I believe are a set of WPC flipper return springs.8098FCBE-057C-4E85-AC2F-97897C931BD5 (resized).jpeg.

The original spring is in the right. You can see where I tried to shorten it. The wpc spring is about the same length, but is stronger. I put a matching set in. The car now resets much better, and completely. It is also harder to defeat.
72FB3A07-F610-44E3-A7CB-C2E5B51AEDDC (resized).jpeg
So if you are having car reset issues, try replacing the springs.

In other news, I tried using rustolium hammer coat black on the coin door. It needs another coat, but I think it will come out well.8A12134B-A12C-4BB1-8547-CB6F452B43D4 (resized).jpeg

#73 6 months ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

Thanks for the help latenite04 !!
Anyone know where to get this specific coil? (Preferably with cheap shipping)
Sorry didn't mean to derail the thread

I know Marco lists then, but you may be able to get it cheaper from pbresource.

#74 6 months ago

I vote yes if you have the time. You will probably loose money on it, but the experience will allow you to make money on future higher valued pins that are in need of some restoration. If you make mistakes it won't bother you as much as it would if this were a high valued pin.

#75 6 months ago

That's a great looking game you've made!

#76 6 months ago

Fantastic job!

#77 6 months ago

It seems like this restore is never ending...today I took stock of what is left to do, and discovered I’m out of LEDs, and I still have to do the Back-Box. Also, the playfield glass really needs to be replaced (it’s pretty scratched up), and to top it off, my coin door is missing a few parts...

#78 6 months ago

That hammered finish stuff is incredible. I redid a few hot-water radiators for my mother-in-law..worked incredibly well.

#79 6 months ago
Quoted from La_Porta:

That hammered finish stuff is incredible. I redid a few hot-water radiators for my mother-in-law..worked incredibly well.

I have to agree, the coin door came out very nice.

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#80 6 months ago

Do you have a part number for the replacement springs in the car crunch?

#81 6 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Do you have a part number for the replacement springs in the car crunch?

Williams part number 10-364. I found the springs in a box of miscellaneous parts, but I’m about 90% sure that they are flipper return springs.

#82 6 months ago

Sweet I'll give them a try!

#83 6 months ago

My LEDs for the back box came in... so I finally had an excuse to mount up my new transite. 1A43D7AA-0E6B-4057-9960-165C6541E1E9 (resized).jpeg
I know, the stock transite stinks, but the red car does tie it to my car in the lower playfield. I also finally took the protective plastic off the rails.

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#84 6 months ago

I put the finishing touches on the inside of the cabinet today. I decided to re-use the plastic transformer guard, and the original guard over the three mechanical relays.D22F7E5E-5AC0-46EF-A8AD-A4545C844B93 (resized).jpeg

The coin door still bothers me. It is missing one mech, and the bracket the holds the mech in. I may have to hunt for those.

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#85 6 months ago

you should consider getting my alt translite from stpcore, I'll even chip in!

You have done an AMAZING jerb on this restore.

#86 6 months ago
Quoted from Malenko:

you should consider getting my alt translite from stpcore, I'll even chip in!
You have done an AMAZING jerb on this restore.

Well that is very generous. Is stpcore a website?

#87 6 months ago

a user here, stpcore

I am digging that car swap, I kinda wanna find one that matches the color of the bonus game in the arcade version and do that, then I can alter my colorization files for the DMD to match , lol

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#88 6 months ago
Quoted from Malenko:

you should consider getting my alt translite from stpcore, I'll even chip in!
You have done an AMAZING jerb on this restore.

You know what, I think your transite does look better than the original.0CE038C4-EA17-465B-AFF4-7E011FE3DC7B (resized).jpeg

#89 6 months ago

An update on my car mod...795F456B-96CD-4895-8386-9D41B5390E38 (resized).jpeg
I have about 50 games on the machine since I finished the playfield. My car has lost some of the paint on the top. I think when the ball hits it, the roof is rubbing against one of the overhead brackets that hold the lexan in place over the car. I may have to take it apart to repair the roof of the car, and find out exactly where it is rubbing.

#90 6 months ago

It looks amazing. Thank you for bringing this pin back from the dead. I appreciate that there are people out there that have the skills required to save these games from the dump!!

#91 6 months ago

Top notch job Alan, you should be proud.

#92 6 months ago

Hey, looking awesome. Can you share if you did anything to the window? Looks really nice.

#93 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Hey, looking awesome. Can you share if you did anything to the window? Looks really nice.

I really didn't do anything to the window other than clean it up with Novus, and then after I assembled the playfield, put a good coat of wax on it. The playfield still has it's factory applied mylar on it, so after I touched it up around the window, I waxed the playfield to protect the touch-ups.

#94 6 months ago

Great work uncivil_engineer !!

1 week later
#95 5 months ago

So I fixed my car issue today. It turns out the car was scraping on the rear support for the plexi that is between the lower playfield and the playfield window.

IMG_6484 (resized).JPG

It took a nice chunk out of the paint. So it was time to do a little auto body work..
I sanded the spot smooth, and then shot some new red over the roof. I used acrylic, so after the paint dried, I put a good coat of wax on it to seal it up.
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The finished car doesn't quite look like new, but when viewing it between two sheets of plexi, it looks good.
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So I mounted it back up in the game, and placed some washers under both the plexi shield, and where the mount attached to the lower playfield. This gives the car about 3/16 of an inch more clearance.
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So now we are looking good again!
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#96 5 months ago

Looks great! Very well done

#97 5 months ago

Can you do my SF2 next?

#98 5 months ago

Well I am closing the book on this one... I spent the morning packing it up and getting it ready to ship to it's new owner.
SF2 PACKEDUP (resized).jpeg

I already have my next project lines up. It is a much abused Sorcerer. This one will truly be a ground up restoration... starting with a new cabinet. Right now I have not sources one yet, so I won't start a new thread until I find one.
Thanks,
--The Uncivil Engineer

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#99 5 months ago

well PM my the link when you do start so I dont miss it. How much did the SF2 go for out of curiosity ?

3 weeks later
#100 4 months ago

I got about $2,200 for it in the end. I am pretty sure I didn’t make any money on it... however that was not my goal.

My sorcerer project is now officially on hold as one of my grail pins has popped up, and is now in my possession, and desperately in need of work... here comes Rudy!

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