My 1st Restoration: Mata Hari with a Hardtop

Quoted from Atari_Daze:
That is what I do, carefully knock them down with light sanding. HEP discusses this phenomenon in his topic around the following post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/22#post-4687367

Wow that's really interesting. Obviously I'm not trying to achieve HEP level restore, but that's something to think about when I do the next one. I wonder if I would get thicker clear areas on my edges if I sprayed with the surface horizontal though. While it's probably smart to have some kind of varnish/clear layer on the cab, I just want to be done spraying at this point. I have a lot more other work to do.

#152 4 years ago

FUN

pinheadpierre

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
I'm hoping someone will comment (like pinheadpierre) on my raised edges & solutions to eliminating them. I'm referring to the edges the green arrows are pointing to in this photo. This is the raised edge of the red layer, that is still visible when the black layer is put on top of it.
Do people wet sand these edges down before proceeding to the next stencil layer, or is this just a result of using these vinyl stencils? I suppose I could have used less paint, but that's tricky IMO if you're trying to get good coverage. These layers are only raised less than a millimeter, so it not really that big a deal.
I'm just wondering if there's a step I missed. In any case I am satisfied with the result, and I also like the satin sheen of these Molotow paints, as opposed to the glossy look of the Rustoleum 2x paints.
I suppose a final layer of semi-gloss spray varnish would help to protect it, but that's more work & god forbid if I screw up that final layer. IDK[quoted image]

To avoid the type of line you’re talking about you would’ve needed to ease the edge of the red prior to applying the black. At this point I wouldn’t worry about it. Your cabinet looks great! In the future, see if you can get away with thinner coats of paint. That too will reduce overlap lines. Again - bravo!!

#153 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Is that what you do Peter? Just gingerly sand the edges of each layer down before applying the next? Just making a note for next time.

Thanks for the support. I even impressed myself

#154 4 years ago

FUN

pinheadpierre

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Is that what you do Peter? Just gingerly sand the edges of each layer down before applying the next? Just making a note for next time.
Thanks for the support. I even impressed myself

It depends on how thick each layer of paint is and how smooth of a stencil job I’m looking to achieve. Sometimes I do and sometimes I decide that I’m okay with overlap lines. The cabinet always looks great either way.

#155 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Well the painting is done! Not 100% certain, but I think I used about 12 cans yellow, 2 red & 2 black. Feels good to have this done! Now to let it cure a day or so & start putting it back together.

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#156 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

I also received apron decals from Classicarades on eBay. I was expecting much, but I’m happy to report the colors are super bright & are pretty close to matching my cabinet. They don’t have the black outline, but that’s fine. I’m using them for sure.

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#157 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
I also received apron decals from Classicarades on eBay. I was expecting much, but I’m happy to report the colors are super bright & are pretty close to matching my cabinet. They don’t have the black outline, but that’s fine. I’m using them for sure.[quoted image]

What color are you going to use to match the yellow in the text?

#158 4 years ago

MOF

mof

Mof Pinball

San Francisco, CA

11y 149K 13,302 25 94

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
They don’t have the black outline

I wonder if there were two styles or... is this just more bad news.

-mof

#159 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-thought-she-was-a-dirty-girl-before-i-stripped-her-down#post-4325069

You probably already saw this but just in case it was missed, krylons sunbeam/safety yellow is pretty close. Just be careful to not get only sunbeam or only safety yellow.

#160 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

The decals are almost a perfect match to the paints I’m using. No worries. Sand & prime the apron. Spray yellow. Slap on decals. Done.

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#161 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Nylon feet & cabinet protectors on, new legs look great. Tumbling some parts I forgot for the backbox.

You can really see how the grey primer on the inside of the cabinet dulled the brightness of the yellow paint. I'll never use grey primer again, unless I'm painting a cabinet black.

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#162 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

So does anyone have a suggestion for replacing the aluminum sheet in the backbox? Pulling mine out was a mistake & it's not reusable now. I purchased the thinnest aluminum sheet I could find at Home Depot, but it's still pretty thick. I'm not certain if I'll be able to staple through it easily.

I'm curious if anyone has another solution. A $13 roll of thin aluminum roof flashing cut to size? I'm thinking this might be a better option, as it will be lighter & easier to staple/screw through.

#163 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-24-in-W-x-36-in-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Sheet-Metal/3057473

Lined the backbox with a roll of roofing flashing from Home Depot, cut to size. Thin & easy to cut, stapled in & looks great.

Sanded & started priming the apron today. I forgot I need to sand & repaint the rails on the playfield, so I want to get that done before it starts getting too cold. Still waiting on some parts for the cabinet, so it will be easier to solder before installing.

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#164 4 years ago

WOT

Atari_Daze

Spd

Houston, TX

7y 141K 10,053 7

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Lined the backbox with a roll of roofing flashing from Home Depot, cut to size. Thin & easy to cut

Going to have to try that on my next build. I typically buy a cut AL sheet similar to the item in this link.
What price point did your flashing have?

#165 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

I think it was around $12 for an 8 inch wide x 25 foot roll. They had all kinds of roll options at Home Depot. I still had plenty left over.

1 week later

#166 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

I’m in a bit of a holding pattern. Just waiting in parts to arrive before proceeding & it took longer than I thought to figure out what I needed. All I need to order now are bulbs & rubbers.

Almost done painting the apron though. I think it’s going to look real nice. It would have been easier to use a compressed air stapler gun for securing the ground wires. I'm replacing the old rusted yellow pieces where possible. The new short length sections have soldered lugs on the ends. You can see in the backbox pic. Should make the ground connection solid. I extended it to all 4 legs.

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#167 4 years ago

YCV

Arcane

Pinside member

Raleigh, NC

7y 54,550 890 6

Excellent work on the ground wiring.

Yves

#168 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from Arcane:
Excellent work on the ground wiring.
Yves

I’m pretty sure I got the idea from you

#169 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Been busy lately but slowing making progress. Looking forward to Thanksgiving weekend when I can really dive into it.

Parts arrived. Starting installing. The apron came out nice I think. The decals doesn’t have the black outlines, but at least the colors match my paints very well.

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#170 4 years ago

BFM

phillyfan64

Pinside+ Frequent

Monroe Township, NJ

9y 70,800 1,715 4

Looking great. I like the yellow apron.

#171 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Very nice felt work on the cabinet

It’s looking great man. I’m getting the itch to do my playfield swap.

#172 4 years ago

KVW

Mathazar

Pinside+ Addict

This is looking terrific, @hoakypoaky. Question for you on your white chime resonator boxes - when you cleaned up your tilt panel, how did you clean up those plastic boxes? Both boxes showed yellowing in the before picture, and in the after picture they're nice and white. The boxes in my Black Jack restoration are also yellowing - I've tried scrubbing and also hydrogen peroxide with UVA light. It helped a little bit, but they're still yellow at the tops. Did you get replacement boxes, re-paint them, or something else?

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#173 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

I just repainted them. Same paint I used to paint the backbox light board. I think it was the Rustoleum 2x Ultra glossy white.

#174 4 years ago

KVW

Mathazar

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
I just repainted them. Same paint I used to paint the backbox light board. I think it was the Rustoleum 2x Ultra glossy white.

Thanx....I was thinking of doing that, but was worried it might affect the chime tone somehow. I may give it a shot.

#175 4 years ago

JIM

jim5six

Pinside member

Reno, NV

8y 68,450 355 14 30 1

I've restored some plastic before and the best way I found was to soak the item in Hydrogen Peroxide set in direct sunlight and a warm place. It will take several hours but does the trick. If the chime plastic is very brittle however, I don't think I would do this...

-Jim

#176 4 years ago

Dono

Pinside+ Frequent

Glenelg, MD

9y 86,050 1,788 12 25

Quoted from pinheadpierre:
To avoid the type of line you’re talking about you would’ve needed to ease the edge of the red prior to applying the black. At this point I wouldn’t worry about it.

I just completed a MH repaint using the Molotow spray cans and Pin pimp stencils... because of the low pressure of those paints coupled with the use of sticky stencils, I don't think that the paint line result can be avoided... simply reduced. You've got to get so low to the surface when spraying, and even though I sprayed just enough to cover, I still got those paint lines as well... they're not visible but you can definitely feel them with a hand rub over the surface. I pretty much knew this was going to happen, but I didn't want to spend silly time creating stencils for MH... that's a bit more than I wanted to tackle. I still am very happy with the results I got, and probably won't follow up with a very light sanding and clear coat step like HEP and others do.

I really like the Molotow paints, and will most likely use them again... however I'll be using home made stencils for my Old Chicago to avoid the spray lines... will report results on that in a separate thread.

BTW, your cab looks great, nice job!!!

#177 4 years ago

FUN

pinheadpierre

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from Dono:
I just completed a MH repaint using the Molotow spray cans and Pin pimp stencils... because of the low pressure of those paints coupled with the use of sticky stencils, I don't think that the paint line result can be avoided... simply reduced. You've got to get so low to the surface when spraying, and even though I sprayed just enough to cover, I still got those paint lines as well... they're not visible but you can definitely feel them with a hand rub over the surface. I pretty much knew this was going to happen, but I didn't want to spend silly time creating stencils for MH... that's a bit more than I wanted to tackle. I still am very happy with the results I got, and probably won't follow up with a very light sanding and clear coat step like HEP and others do.
I really like the Molotow paints, and will most likely use them again... however I'll be using home made stencils for my Old Chicago to avoid the spray lines... will report results on that in a separate thread.
BTW, your cab looks great, nice job!!!

I once did a cabinet with homemade stencils cut from big sheets of cardboard harvested from the aisles of Costco. It was time consuming but eliminated the hard edges. It also allows a bit of edge spray bleed like the original factory stencils for older games (which I think were cut from metal sheets).

#178 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from pinheadpierre:
I once did a cabinet with homemade stencils cut from big sheets of cardboard harvested from the aisles of Costco. It was time consuming but eliminated the hard edges. It also allows a bit of edge spray bleed like the original factory stencils for older games (which I think were cut from metal sheets).

This is how I did My Shangri-La and my Rocket Restos. But I used poster board. I love the look of the soft edge.

#179 4 years ago

Dono

Pinside+ Frequent

Glenelg, MD

9y 86,050 1,788 12 25

Quoted from mrm_4:
This is how I did My Shangri-La and my Rocket Restos. But I used poster board. I love the look of the soft edge.

100% agreed... I've done several with home made and prefer that method for reasons you guys state... IMO looks so much better with the au naturelle overspray.. the Shangri-la and Rocket cabs look great (I assume you were the poster of those cabs on earlier threads).

#180 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Just realized I haven’t posted in a while. I’m just in the middle of re-pinning all of the connectors. I highly recommend this HT-225D Ratcheting Tool that I picked up on Amazon. Perfect crimp every time. It’s just tedious work.

The new work lights have really helped when working in the garage at night. Lower cabinet is all done. New power cord soldered, everything grounded properly. Mounted the all Altek MPU, light & solenoid boards. Had a friend help install the new rectifier board so I’m all good there. Hopefully this holiday weekend I can get started on the playfield.
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#181 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Did you buy the Alltek trifecta?! That games going to live forever!
What’s up with that support piece in the cab? Is this a mod you’re experimenting with or were your cabinet walls bowing?

#182 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Yeah the alltek bundle kit that gave a slight discount. It’s going to be rock solid for sure, especially with the rebuilt connectors.

I’m not sure what the deal is with the support piece. The cabinet is solid so I’m not sure why someone added it. Figured I might as well put it back in there anyway.

#183 4 years ago

KVW

Mathazar

Pinside+ Addict

Looking great, @hoakypoaky! When you put your new grounding shields in the backbox, how did you handle the mounting holes for the PCB brackets, etc.? Did you use the old shields as a template and mark the holes in the new shields through the old ones, or did you just install the new shields and then measure where all of the screws should go? I just got in my roll of roof flashing and will be redoing the shields in my Black Jack restoration.

#184 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from Mathazar:
Looking great, hoakypoaky! When you put your new grounding shields in the backbox, how did you handle the mounting holes for the PCB brackets, etc.? Did you use the old shields as a template and mark the holes in the new shields through the old ones, or did you just install the new shields and then measure where all of the screws should go? I just got in my roll of roof flashing and will be redoing the shields in my Black Jack restoration.

I was going to use the old shields to mark where the holes were, but I bent mine up pretty good when I removed them so I didn't bother with that. I just marked & drilled small pilot holes for the brackets & screwed them in.

1 week later

#185 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Happy to report the cabinet is done. All connectors re-pinned, new LED displays installed, boards connected.

Now it’s onto the playfield! Rebuild the mechs & install the hardtop.

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#186 4 years ago

KVW

Mathazar

Pinside+ Addict

That looks really, really nice HoakyPoaky - terrific job so far!!!

#187 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

Plug her in man!!! Let’s see that backbox lit up!
Looks awesome

#188 4 years ago

BFM

phillyfan64

Pinside+ Frequent

Monroe Township, NJ

9y 70,800 1,715 4

Looks fantastic!!

#189 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from mrm_4:
Plug her in man!!! Let’s see that backbox lit up!
Looks awesome

You know I thought of that today. Shouldn’t harm anything at this point to power it up, even though the playfield isn’t connected right?

#190 4 years ago

YCV

Arcane

Pinside member

Raleigh, NC

7y 54,550 890 6

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
You know I thought of that today. Shouldn’t harm anything at this point to power it up, even though the playfield isn’t connected right?

That is correct. As a matter of fact, you should always verify all electrical things, one step at a time. If you wait till the end, you will be overwhelmed by the issues and won't know where to start.

Thus validate, you power supply, backbox lights, verify that the CPU boots correctly and that all cabinet controls work well. Run tests.

Yves

#191 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Powered up & tested. No electrical issues with the cabinet. It was a really good feeling to hear those chimes & see the lights. Now it’s onto the playfield. Already started stripping it today.

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#192 4 years ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
It was a really good feeling to hear those chimes

I’m glad you said this I forgot how that little surprise made me so happy when I was at this same spot in the resto.
Looks like you got some goodies on that table waiting for the playfield

#193 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Oh yeah. It’s going to look brand new when all said & done.

Cleaning & rebuilding the drop target assemblies today. Was surprised to find a metal sleeve within the coil.

Just going to work my way through the underside of the playfield. Flippers, slings, scoop mechs etc. Once I get the pops disassembled, then I think it’ll be time to work on the hardtop prep.

Still undecided what I’m going to do with that saucer. Too damn cold to spray clear in this garage now. Might just repair with some JB weld Kwik wood & sand it.

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#194 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Also does anyone have a good recommendation for restoring the rails? I was just going to do an evaporust soak & buff with mothers. I don’t think there’s a way to reduce the ball trails though.

Removing these from the woodrails sure was a delicate process.

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#195 4 years ago

BOB

bssbllr

In Memoriam

Frankfort, NY

10y 75,050 1,730 1

You can sand it with sand paper try a spot start with like 800 then go higher and higher. Then buff with mother’s. You will be able to get a lot out of them. They will shine again.

#196 4 years ago

Dono

Pinside+ Frequent

Glenelg, MD

9y 86,050 1,788 12 25

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Also does anyone have a good recommendation for restoring the rails? I was just going to do an evaporust soak & buff with mothers. I don’t think there’s a way to reduce the ball trails though.
Removing these from the woodrails sure was a delicate process.[quoted image]

Yeah, I was very conservative doing mine, since I understand the Bally rails aren't solid stainless... I wet sanded with 600, followed by 1000 and mothers mag... not aggressive on the sanding... got rid of 80% of the trail, but mine were in decent shape prior to working them.

#197 4 years ago

FUN

pinheadpierre

Pinside+ Frequent

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=abrasive%20ball

If you don't already have one in your toolbox, save that metal coil sleeve. They are the perfect tool for removing the occasional, slightly stuck coil sleeve. Use it like a pin punch for coil sleeves.

As for the rails, as others have implied, it really depends on whether they are solid stainless or are plated. I don't know what you've got there. I've removed ball trails from rails by hand but now always use the 180 & 400 grit abrasive balls from harbor freight followed by Mother's mag polish. This gives a factory looking fine grain shine, not mirror polish. You'd need to go with many more higher grit steps than 400 for mirror.

1 week later

#198 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from pinheadpierre:
If you don't already have one in your toolbox, save that metal coil sleeve. They are the perfect tool for removing the occasional, slightly stuck coil sleeve. Use it like a pin punch for coil sleeves.
As for the rails, as others have implied, it really depends on whether they are solid stainless or are plated. I don't know what you've got there. I've removed ball trails from rails by hand but now always use the 180 & 400 grit abrasive balls from harbor freight followed by Mother's mag polish. This gives a factory looking fine grain shine, not mirror polish. You'd need to go with many more higher grit steps than 400 for mirror.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=abrasive%20ball

I missed this post. Thanks for the tip. I'l try that method & just buff them out.

#199 4 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

So I made some good progress this weekend. I have the top of the playfield stripped now, and I’ve been disassembling & cleaning all the mechs while I work my way through it. Trying to remove all dirt & gunk, get things looking nice & shiny.

Flippers are rebuilt, along with the drop targets & slings. These pops are a bit of a pain in the ass tho. I’m swapping out the 44 fixtures & replacing with 555 fixtures for LED pop bumper discs. It will be a bit crammed in there but I think it will work.

In any case, the topside is stripped. I just have to remove the Mylar from the slings & pop areas. The thing that I’m questioning is the 3 original mounting nails for each pop. I’m worried that they are not countersunk far enough into the playfield, and may be an issue when the hardtop is put down. I have new replacement nails, but they will probably be difficult to remove. I’m just wondering what others have done in this scenario.
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#200 4 years ago

KVW

Mathazar

Pinside+ Addict