Can you find the colors you are wanting in a rattle can?
(Topic ID: 246769)
Linked Games
Mata Hari
Bally, 1978
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Yeah they are all rustoleum ultra 2x gloss colors. I used the swatches from the website to play around in photoshop, and bought some cans & sprayed some test samples
Purple
Apple Red
Berry Pink
Is there a risk though to painting colors over a black base?
I’m kinda leaning towards the purple/red/pink combo. I think it will pop nicely & match well with the backglass. Hard decisions
San Francisco, CA
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Hard decisions
No brainer decision! Pink/purple/red is no-fly-zone.
Stick with original!
Head outline looks best in yellow for that BG, and if the head is yellow, cab is yellow. That's your starting point.
-mof
Now, there's nothing wrong with bumping up the colors from 3 to 4, 5, or 6. I've seen this done a few times, and the results are amazing.
-mof
It looks to me that the main colors are: (looking at BG, apron, and PF)
Yellow
Orange
Black
Red
and then the accents are:
Pink
Purple
(white)
I would use (pink/purple) minutely if possible (or at all)
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Got the final (hopefully) coat of primer on today. Get sanded tomorrow & finally ready for paint.[quoted image]
Looking good. How many cans did you get into?
I’m biting my nails to see where this goes with those alternate colors. I keep petting my machine telling her it’ll be ok. 
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m biting my nails to see where this goes with those alternate colors. I keep petting my machine telling her it’ll be ok.
I have my money on it looking hideous. The original is so amazing. At least it'll be easy to repaint since the prep work is done.
Don't be swayed. This is your game. And do it however you want to. Personally I think it will be sweet. 
Well all sanded with 320g today & ready for painting. Is it perfect? Hell no. I clearly missed some small areas that could have used some bondo. It could probably use another coat but I’m moving on. Overall the surfaces are smooth & flat & the prominent edges are sharp. Million times better than before I started. I think I used around 10 cans? I lost count.
Going to go slow & steady for the base coat & see how it goes. Just one side at a time while only spraying flat surfaces.
As far as color goes, still deciding. The only thing about an alternate scheme is that it will have to change the playfield rail color, and the apron, and make different color Bally apron decals. Might be more trouble than it’s worth.
F1683381-1076-48A5-97DB-B1FAE6DD4B63 (resized).jpegE872A98C-24B2-4CCE-90FD-12195BA40DBC (resized).jpeg85BF54FA-D9B6-404C-9092-2BF9A096F611 (resized).jpeg4D2045D5-4380-44CF-8330-6B8101B3FB93 (resized).jpeg8120E7FA-2E27-4E60-8C6B-8851DDD5E51C (resized).jpegB9C50952-4EA5-427B-8BC3-0749807A209A (resized).jpegI’m super impressed with the tumbler though. I did a test run, let some parts tumble with crushed walnut & flitz polish for about 18 hours, then buffed them with Mothers mag polish. The results are great IMO. Really looking forward to restoring the coin door & seeing how shiny I can get it looking again.
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Some before & after pics....
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Woolgoolga
Can i say i love the backbox? Sensational like that.
Catch is, i hate the cab, could you work the colours another way cab only and keep the backbox as it is? Swap the pink and purple out or better still get the yellow back in there as an accent?
edit to stay constructive, i think the girls face just blends in there and you cant really see what the shape is just some squiggles.
Yeah that’s the whole problem. The girl doesn’t pop out, unless she (meaning the base color) is yellow. Pink works too, but I’m really afraid of using pink as the base color. It’s too risky.
Can only use 3 colors, and two of them are going to be black & red. So it’s purple or yellow base coat.
I could make the base coat red, but I wasn’t I big fan of that mock-up
You really need to cut the cab with yellow somewhere. You can always get Jeff to cut you a single layer of the stencil again and use portions of it for the yellow.
Keep up the great work, the cab colors are so close to being uniquely awesome.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:I’m super impressed with the tumbler though. I did a test run, let some parts tumble with crushed walnut & flitz polish for about 18 hours, then buffed them with Mothers mag polish. The results are great IMO. Really looking forward to restoring the coin door & seeing how shiny I can get it looking again.
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Some before & after pics....
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If repeat the tumbling process in corn cob media you will not have to do all the buffing with the drill the corn cob polishes the metal to a shine i just started doing this with all my hardware and everything has a mirror finish on most of it. I use turtle wax premium rubbing compound in with my media
Last mockups. Food for thought. On the yellow/grape/black scheme, I'd airbrush the lips & skull from black to red to symbolize the Kiss of Death. I'd also make the head outline purple on both I think.
Who am I kidding, I'm probably going to paint this thing the original scheme anyway.
yellow, grape, black
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yellow, red, purple
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:mockups
I'm sticking to my guns with yellow head, yellow woman.
Your last two mockups both look very cool.
I think the last one gets the edge. It looks like a snazzier Lost world or Paragon. Is it better than stock? Perhaps by a hair. The black in the original seems a bit dull.
If you can find a way to go 4 or 5 color... It may be worth experimenting further.
-mof
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Last mockups. Food for thought.
Well, I like the last one better than the rest. For some reason still prefer the original scheme however. I think though there is not much yellow on the PF, it frames the game nicely and picks up Mata Hari's skin tone on the BG. It also matches the rails, but I am guessing you will paint them as well if you change the colors. I agree with mof, maybe going 4 or 5 colors (such as MH's cape being purple, but other black remains) would be worth exploring.
Well since this is my first attempt with laying down paint on a cabinet, the less complex I make this process the better. There's so much that can go wrong when painting & the stencils are only setup for 3 colors.
For all this brainstorming, honestly it's best to keep the color scheme original. It just looks right. So I'm going with yellow for the base & red for the highlights. If I want some slight originality, I'll paint the apron red instead of yellow. That works for me. I can decide later on if I'm going black or dark purple for the outlines.
I will say that yellow & purple really look sharp together. I just don't think it's the right choice for Mata Hari
I like the yellow/red/purple look, but I feel the scheme is just a ripoff of Lost World or Viking. Black outlines really pop & that's probably the way to go. So no more mockups. Time to start spraying.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well since this is my first attempt with laying down paint on a cabinet, the less complex I make this process the better. There's so much that can go wrong when painting & the stencils are only setup for 3 colors.
For all this brainstorming, honestly it's best to keep the color scheme original. It just looks right. So I'm going with yellow for the base & red for the highlights. I can decide later on if I'm going black or dark purple for the outlines.
I will say that yellow & purple really look sharp together. I just don't think it's the right choice for Mata Hari
I like the yellow/red/purple look, but I feel the scheme is just a ripoff of Lost World or Viking. Black outlines really pop & that's probably the way to go. So no more mockups. Time to start spraying.
Just remember multiple LIGHT coats
Dont try to completely cover it in color the first few runs, just get a decent mist all over the primer, wait a few minutes then do it a gain. Do this until it gets fully painted. might take about 6 or 7 full passes but it'll cure properly and keep you from getting crows feet on the next color. I like to spray a nice even mist, then set a 4 minute timer on my phone then go sit on my hands. Alarm goes off, then repeat.
Quoted from mrm_4:Just remember multiple LIGHT coats
Dont try to completely cover it in color the first few runs, just get a decent mist all over the primer, wait a few minutes then do it a gain. Do this until it gets fully painted. might take about 6 or 7 full passes but it'll cure properly and keep you from getting crows feet on the next color. I like to spray a nice even mist, then set a 4 minute timer on my phone then go sit on my hands. Alarm goes off, then repeat.
You did yours one side at a time, spraying on a horizonal surface right? Seems like this will get the best looking even coat, but damn it's going to take awhile to get it painted that way.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:You did yours one side at a time, spraying on a horizontal surface right? Seems like this will get the best looking even coat, but damn it's going to take awhile to get it painted that way.
Yeah i always lay the side i'm paint up. Every one tends to have their own way, I always go off of trial and error. You'll find what works for you, but i just remember so many frustrations on my first resto from painting and it was because there really isnt a clear way explained to paint. Everyone always just said "paint coats" so to me I took that like painting a living room wall, I laid down one coat making it look completely perfect with way too much paint, waited 2 days and tried to add another coat and it was god awful. With spray paint coats are significantly different. Just have patience and dont rush!
You can paint it sitting normally, but i would recommend starting with the inside, then do the outside. Just be aware of how thick you go because youll get runs in the paint if too much is sprayed while its vertical.
The more i look at that purple replacing the black the more im digging it
Quoted from mrm_4:Yeah i always lay the side i'm paint up. Every one tends to have their own way, I always go off of trial and error. You'll find what works for you, but i just remember so many frustrations on my first resto from painting and it was because there really isnt a clear way explained to paint. Everyone always just said "paint coats" so to me I took that like painting a living room wall, I laid down one coat making it look completely perfect with way too much paint, waited 2 days and tried to add another coat and it was god awful. With spray paint coats are significantly different. Just have patience and dont rush!
You can paint it sitting normally, but i would recommend starting with the inside, then do the outside. Just be aware of how thick you go because youll get runs in the paint if too much is sprayed while its vertical.
The more i look at that purple replacing the black the more im digging it
How long did you let each color cure for before moving onto next color?
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:How long did you let each color cure for before moving onto next color?
Well with doing it in several light coats I usually wait a few days. In the past when I was going heavy I would wait a week or so. Being that you live in NV that dry heat should help you out. Some guys knockout out whole projects in a weekend though and I have no clue how they pull it off.
Quoted from Gritty:Looking great, thanks for sharing. What kind of epoxy did you use on the cab?
For rebuilding the corners I used Bondo automotive Fiberglass Resin. Super simple to use, strong & easy to sand into sharp corners. After priming you can’t even tell where the resin areas are.
Got the coin door completely disassembled tonight. What a rusted mess. Took a million photos so hopefully I can put this puzzle back together.
I will say that the front of the coindoor looks pretty good. It’s not dented much so I think it can be polished up nicely. However someone put thick tape over the coin return slot years ago. Hard as a rock. Anyone have a clue how to remove it without scratching up the panel? I don’t think GooGone will work. Perhaps I should try soaking panel in evaporust?
8E3E7A10-5F42-4300-8E58-CFA5AB6B0962 (resized).jpeg1D95F98B-7892-4BC6-8B06-2793F3A465B5 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:soaking panel in evaporust
Sure, always start there since you gotta do that anyway. Might remove some paper aspects of the tape, but not the glue aspects...
I was gonna say heat gun to loosen the glue, but that's a guess
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:coindoor
My Williams coin door on my Space Odyssey (no re-plating just a de-rusting and reassembly) took about 11-12 hours over 3 days. Huge project compared to what I had expected, lol, but totally worth it. Hopefully you're not in a rush, haha!
-mof
Quoted from timab2000:Acetone
I've got some so I'll give it a try, then the evaporust
At least I wrote the steps down as I disassembled, as I'll just go backward to put it back together. Shouldn't be too bad.
Do you guys have to further clean the rusty areas with a brush or steel wool after soaking in evaporust? I've never really used the stuff before. Not sure how effective it is. Anything that is small enough to fit will go in the tumbler after the soak.
.....and reassembled. Before & after. It’s like night & day. What a difference! Glad I decided to do it. Just need to get new Free Play plastics for the coin slot windows & a door lock. The front of the door still has some scratches that didn’t buff out, but that’s fine with me. Keep original when possible.
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Ottawa, ON
Following! Man everything looks great!
The coin door looks new. How hard is it to get the front skin off the coin door? Mine is in OK condition inside but it has a dent in the front I'd like to get out. Can it come off without breaking it down to 300 pieces?
You’ll have to dissemble a good portion of it. Some of the screws that mount the plate are behind the coin mechs. Take photos & it’s fairly easy to reassemble.
I thought the small plate covering the coin return was gone. Turns out it was just inside the door itself.
1 week later
Well I thought I was done priming, but I decided to lay down a final coat of white 2in1 filler primer to hopefully make the yellow base coat pop better. Everything sanded with 400g today. Smooth as glass & ready to paint. Just having a hard time wiping at the fine dust away with tack cloths.
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In other news the paint did arrive this weekend. I decided not to go with the Rustoleum 2x Ultra paints. While most people are able to use it successfully, I’ve seen some horror stories as well.
So I’ve heard some good things with this Molotow brand. Acrylic based, lots of pigment, wide spray nozzle, way more shades & colors to choose from for future projects. So I wanted to give it a shot. It will have a satin sheen after painting, so I might spray with an additional clearcoat when finished. Depend how it turns out.
Going to start with the head first. If it would only cool off here. 90 again today.
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:In other news the paint did arrive this weekend. I decided not to go with the Rustoleum 2x Ultra paints. While most people are able to use it successfully, I’ve seen some horror stories as well.
So I’ve heard some good things with this Molotow brand. Acrylic based, lots of pigment, wide spray nozzle, way more shades & colors to choose from for future projects. So I wanted to give it a shot. It will have a satin sheen after painting, so I might spray with an additional clearcoat when finished. Depend how it turns out.
Going to start with the head first. If it would only cool off here. 90 again today.
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Wow!! with that many skulls and crossbones it has to be good!!! The cabinet looks great, savor the process.
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