(Topic ID: 61645)

My first Gottlieb EM came home today (need a little help too)

By drsfmd

10 years ago


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There are 239 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 10 years ago

So I poicked up my Addams Family machine today, and on the way to pick it up, I made a brief stop to trade an old farm engine I had for a 1970 Gottlieb Baseball. It will clean up nice, but has a few issues... I already repaired the loose board on the head unit, and swapped out bulbs with working ones. On Tuesday I'll call PBResource to order a schematic.

In the meantime, maybe you guys can help me get started. When I press the start button, the score motor runs, etc, but the game is stuck on "tilt". As near as I can tell, there are 4 tilt switches on the machine-- slam switches on the coin door and floor, the "ball" switch on the left side of the cabinet, and the pendulum. It appears that the door switch should always be closed, and the other three should always be open-- is that correct? While I'm waiting for the schematic to arrive, is there anyplace else you think I should be looking?

I'll pull the bottom panel and clean and check the switches in the next few days, just hoping I can get it running, however marginally, in the meantime.

Oh-- and how does one remove the backglass on these? Not at all like my Williams or Bally machines!

#2 10 years ago

To remove the backglass, the board in the backbox needs to be tipped back so that it rests on the two angle brackets mounted on the inside walls of the backbox. Then the glass needs to be lifted a bit, and then dropped down a bit so that it can clear the top two angle brackets. Once clear, then the glass needs to be tipped backwards and lifted out and over the tipped back backboard. It's a pain, really.

An alternative (and a safer one), is to remove the whole backbox board. But that requires unscrewing the jones plugs receivers and the hinge plates, so the board can detach from the backbox. Once removed though, the backglass is much easier access. And the angle brackets can be removed too.

This era of game powers up in Tilt, so when you say the score motor runs "etc", does it stop running or keep running? It should stop running when the reset complete is detected, and kick the ball out to the plunger. If it doesn't stop running, then there's something lacking in the reset (like a score reel not detected at zero and other things). Could still be something with tilt, but would be helpful to know if the score motor stops or not first.

Good call on getting the schematic. Very handy to have.

#3 10 years ago

Bottom panel tilt is Normally Closed

--Jeff

#4 10 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

This era of game powers up in Tilt, so when you say the score motor runs "etc", does it stop running or keep running? It should stop running when the reset complete is detected, and kick the ball out to the plunger.

Thanks for the glass tip. Glad I didn't mess with it

The score motor stops, but no ball kicks out, and it remains in tilt.

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Bottom panel tilt is Normally Closed
--Jeff

That may well be the problem then... headed to the game room now. I'll report back shortly.

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Bottom panel tilt is Normally Closed
--Jeff

Closed it... no change.

#7 10 years ago

Gents-

How the hell do I pull the bottom panel on this machine? It's tied in with the fuse panel, which is forward of the panel. I just don't see a way to do this easily.

#8 10 years ago

You are going to need to unscrew anything that can't be unplugged.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Thanks for the glass tip. Glad I didn't mess with it
The score motor stops, but no ball kicks out, and it remains in tilt.

if it makes you feel any better, i had exactly the opposite problem with my first williams machine, i could not for the life of me figure out how to get the bg out...

#10 10 years ago

Gottliebs usually fire up with Tilt lit. More times than not the actual 'tilt,(plum bob, slam switches)' has nothing to do with it.
You're going to have to go through all the relays to find the problem.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballShawn:

You're going to have to go through all the relays to find the problem.

Hence why I was trying to pull the bottom panel. Looks like I have to unscrew the fuse panel to get it out.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Hence why I was trying to pull the bottom panel. Looks like I have to unscrew the fuse panel to get it out.

or de-solder the wires from the fuse block...

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

or de-solder the wires from the fuse block...

That occurred to me too... I'd rather not, unless I really need to.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

That occurred to me too... I'd rather not, unless I really need to.

a man who feels the same way about soldering as i do...

i am SO tempted to replace anything i have to solder with crimped fast-ons... done "right", there is no reason why they shouldn't work...

#15 10 years ago

LOL... thought about adding a molex connector for the fuse box.

I'm actually pretty good at soldering, and I don't mind doing it, but that's a lot of stuff to disconnect...

#16 10 years ago

Fooled around a little... I've got it BASICALLY resetting, but without a manual or schematic, I'm not sure what the complete list of what should be happening is (and it still doesn't come out of tilt!)

There are these funky "knockbacks" (there must be a proper name for them) above 1st and 3rd bases. A clean, lube, couple turns to the spring, and gap the switch, and those return to the zero position when the start button is pushed. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/images/185/image-2.jpg

The score reels sort of reset... it usually doesn't come all the way back to zero on the first try, but does zero out on the second try.

There's no playfield illumination, but the backbox is lit up.

This thing is *SO* different than my Williams and Bally machines...

I'm not going to install a molex connector-- there are 25 wires going off the cabinet board to the fuses. I'll just unscrew the fuse board.

I also found some funky replacement wire going from an unlabeled relay in the center of the cabient board (picture is from IPBD, I added the circle) to a ground by the start button. I'll need to look into that further.

image-9.jpgimage-9.jpg

#17 10 years ago

the "knockbacks" are called "vari-targets"...

re: score reel reset... i had a similar issue, and it was because the reels were gunked... have you r&r'd the reels? if not, welcome to the wonderful world of gottlieb decagon reels... also check the zero position switch, i also had a problem where the reel would pass zero a couple times before stopping...

a recommendation which may or may not be approved by those with more 'sperience than i... when you r&r the reels, treat the "1's reel" to a new set of springs (pbr sells a kit of the ones you'll need)... i figure that one takes the most amount of abuse, and i don't want to have to take it apart more than once... cheap preventative maintenance...

can't tell on the wire, i can't blow the pic up enough on my ipad to see it well enough... the other guys will know...

#18 10 years ago

I haven't gotten around to the reels yet-- they looked a little intimidating! The zero position, I think, is ok... they aren't passing zero-- they aren't GETTING to zero.

Do you know the part # at PBR? I have to call them tomorrow anyway.

#19 10 years ago

ah, then it's likely they are gunked...

take a look at the videos i linked to in the thread below... they aren't impossible to work on, but they definitely are more of a challenge than the williams reels... i r&r'd 4 williams reels in less time than it took me to do my first decagon reel... supposedly it gets easier, but i haven't reached that point yet...

part number for the spring kit is "kt-gstep-04"... get coil sleeves for all of the reels too... that is part number "sleeve-a8111"...

edit: here's the link to the thread with the vids...

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/good-youtube-vid-for-decagon-score-reels

#20 10 years ago

No real update, but I did pick up connectors and start cutting the wiring harness. That's just backbreaking work-- bending over in the cabinet to cut, crimp, and solder. Ugh... I'm going to be hurting tomorrow! I finished 16 sets... I'll do the other 8 tomorrow, then pull the bottom panel.

The score reels *DO* seem to be working now. I have them a little workout and let them run a couple of "laps" then I zeroed them out with the start button again. That seems to have cleared whatever dust and grime was holding them up. When I get further along I will probably pull them and clean them properly, but for now I can leave them be.

I tried to call PBR but was unable to get through today... so I'll try again tomorrow. It appears that there isn't a manual for this pin, just a schematic. Does anyone know the order of the startup sequence? I don't even know where to begin.

The score motor runs, the ball unit rotates (credit unit?), the varitargets reset, the score and runs reels reset, the relay just forward of the one I circled last night energizes (this is also unlabeled). What should I be looking for next?

Pinrepair notes:

Gottlieb Latch Relay Problems.
Starting in the early 1960s (maybe first with Flipper Parade), Gottlieb used latch relays for playfield features. They used these up to the 1970s with their Baseball wedgeheads like Playball and Pro Football. These are different than the short stroke Ax/Bx latching relays, in that they use longer switch blades. Unfortunately sometimes this style of latch relay does not reset or "unlatch".

There are two causes for this. First is the contact of the two latch plates is too great. That is, you only need just a little bit of the "lip" to catch and latch. Less lip, and it's easier for the relay to pull the latch plate in, unlatching the relay. To adjust this just bend the latch stops so there's as little plate as possible latching to the two latch plates. This means there's less work the relay has to do to pull in the latch plates, and less chance magnetism will effect the plates.

Does anyone know if this would apply to my machine? Anyone know what the relay I circled last night is? It's not labeled.

#21 10 years ago

hmmm... i'll take a look inside my pro football tomorrow and see if i can figure it out what the relay is... since clay indicates the games are similar in construction, we might be able to puzzle it out...

here's the startup sequence for a 1972 game... i *believe* it should be the same, but don't take that as gospel...

http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0450.html

#22 10 years ago

Just found this on Mr. Pinball's website. It's not specifically for my machine, but it's of a similar vintage and also a single player wedgehead.

The following information is taken from the March 1972 Gottlieb Flying Carpet manual. This may be helpful when debugging a startup problem with this or other Gottlieb single-player games from the same period.

1. Inserting a coin or pushing the replay button actuates 'S' relay (Start relay).
2. This relay will lock-in through its own switch and a motor 2B switch.
3. 'S' relay starts the motor running.
4. Through a switch that has been closed on 'S' relay, the 'SB' relay, total play meter and reset ball count unit are actuated by switches on motor 1A and motor 2C.
5. The sequence bank is reset by motor 4B switch through 'SB Armature' switch.
6. The control bank is reset by motor 4C switch through 'SB Armature' switch.
7. When 'DB' relay is in a setup position, the motor continues to run and all score units reset to zero through motor 1A, motor 4A, and the reset control switches on 'DB' When all score units are reset to zero and motor 2B switch makes, 'DB' relay is tripped completing the reset cycle.
8. Place the ball in the out hole. When the ball makes the outhole switch, 'O' relay is actuated through a normally closed switch on 'DB'.
9. 'O' relay locks in through its own switch and a switch on motor 2B.
10. When 'O' relay is energized the motor starts running.
11. Motor 4C actuates the ball return coil through a switch on 'O' relay.
12. The ball return kicks the ball across the trough switch which steps the ball count unit once, indicating first ball in play.
13. The ball is now in the runway and ready to be shot onto the playfield.

I'm going to make an assumption that the relay in front of the one I circled last night is the "S" relay, since it's the only relay that pulls in (it only energizes briefly, and releases before the score motor is done), and the score motor runs. What is the "SB" relay? The total play counter does not advance. So it looks like it makes it to step 4 before it hangs up-- does that sound about right?

#23 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

hmmm... i'll take a look inside my pro football tomorrow and see if i can figure it out what the relay is... since clay indicates the games are similar in construction, we might be able to puzzle it out...
here's the startup sequence for a 1972 game... i *believe* it should be the same, but don't take that as gospel...
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0450.html

Too funny... I was typing up my post while you responded, and it's the same link I found.

I found a couple of pictures of insides of this and similar cabinets, and none seem to have those two relays labeled.

#24 10 years ago

off the top of my head, i believe the "sb relay" is the reset relay... that should be in the control bank (where the start relay is)...

yea, that sounds like where it's gagging... but i'm getting sleepy, i'll take a closer look at a similar schematic tomorrow when i look for that mystery relay...

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Hence why I was trying to pull the bottom panel. Looks like I have to unscrew the fuse panel to get it out.

To pull out the bottom panel, there are three fillister head screws that hold it to the cabinet, and then on this vintage of game, it's easiest to unscrew the two screws that hold the tilt panel to the side of the cabinet and just take that out too. Disconnect the jones plugs that go to the backbox, coin door, and playfield (those just unplug).

So about five screws to undo. Don't need to unsolder or cut anything. The corner where the transformer sits is a bit on the heavy side, so careful lifting the board, as it won't be balanced. If you plan to sit the board flat on a bench, then you'll also want to remove the knock-off plunger that sits in the plastic bushing near the play meter (it sticks out the bottom of the board and gets in the way setting it on a bench).

Takes just a couple minutes.

#26 10 years ago

Too late for that... I've already cut it up and started adding connectors. What a piss-poor design this wiring is.

#27 10 years ago

SB = Reset Relay
DB = Reset Completed Relay

You cut the wiring harness???? Oh my.

#28 10 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Too late for that... I've already cut it up and started adding connectors. What a piss-poor design this wiring is.

ugh... i think we misunderstood your question on this before... very sorry there... my fault, i should have asked you for a picture of what you meant...

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

SB = Reset Relay
DB = Reset Completed Relay
You cut the wiring harness???? Oh my.

thanks for confirming the relay dirtflipper...

oh my is right... just thinking about that makes my head hurt...

#29 10 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

You cut the wiring harness???? Oh my.

It'll be fine

Got a couple of sets of 12 position connectors, and I'm soldering, not crimping. Once I have the schematic in hand, I'll trace each and every one of those and confirm continuity, but given my testing after completing a little more than 1/2 of them last night, I don't think it will be an issue, and if it is, I've got the patience to figure it out.

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

SB = Reset Relay
DB = Reset Completed Relay

Would that be the relay I circled, and the one immediately in front of it? Those are the only ones I can find that aren't labeled.

#30 10 years ago

I don't have this particular title, so can't really say which relay it is from the picture.

But here's how to track down which one it is:

- One the schematic, in the lower left side is a list of all the relays and coils used in the game
- For each relay, the coil part number is listed, along with the number and type of contacts
- In the game, the part number is usually printed on the coil wrapper, as well as stamped on the base of the coil (where the lugs are)
- Once you have the coil part number (e.g. for the SB relay), you can locate where that type of coil is used in the game. If there's only one, you're done. If there is more than one of that particular coil, then look at the number and type of switches listed (these are listed like '3A', '2B', '1C', where the number is the count of how many, and A, B, C indicate whether it's a normally open or closed or make/break style; I posted an explanation of those in a different thread awhile back).
- If by some miracle there are two coils of the same type AND the same switch config (which I'd doubt), then you can still further distinguish by the wire color stated on the schematic that leads to the coil; those will be unique to the specific coil (this can also be a faster path once you know the coil part number.

For Baseball, the SB relay coil is an A-1118, and the switch stack has 2A, 1B, and 1C switches on it (so four total, two normally open and one each of normally closed and make/break). And it should have a black wire on one lug and a BL-OR (blue-orange) wire on the other lug.

TB, XB, and DB1 also all use the A-1118 coil, but they each have slightly different switch stacks.

#31 10 years ago

Thanks Dirtflipper. I'm awaiting delivery of the schematic... so I guess I'm stalled until that gets here.

#32 10 years ago

Just to clarify, that last bit of info I posted about the SB relay being an A-1118 coil, etc. is right off my Baseball schematic that I do have. So maybe that will bridge the gap until yours arrives.

#33 10 years ago

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the PF out, then check the relays one by one? It's just a cotter pin holding them in place. Looks like there are only about 8-10 relays in that game in the pic.
But if your GI is out, you probably have a fuse problem anyway so you'll need to replace that fuse block.
It just looks like a very simple game to me, it's a pain hanging over the cab, but that one shouldn't take but 30 min to check all the relays and the scoring motor. Would take longer desoldering all the wires.

#34 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballShawn:

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the PF out, then check the relays one by one? It's just a cotter pin holding them in place. Looks like there are only about 8-10 relays in that game in the pic.
But if your GI is out, you probably have a fuse problem anyway so you'll need to replace that fuse block.
It just looks like a very simple game to me, it's a pain hanging over the cab, but that one shouldn't take but 30 min to check all the relays and the scoring motor. Would take longer desoldering all the wires.

Yup, you're not wrong... but I've got serious back issues, and trying to bend over that far is simply torture. I can cut and solder connectors from a piano stool without having to bend over very much. When I pull the bottom panel, it will go to my 4 foot high workbench, so I don't have to bend over while I work on it

This DOES appear to be a fairly simple game. Hopefully the schematic shows up tonight and I can get to work on whatever ails it.

#35 10 years ago

Ok-- I've got the schematic, and spent the evening at the machine with it. I made no real progress. All of the switches have been cleaned and gapped, except for the relay "bank", which I can't figure out how to access. There's a count unit of some sort in the cabinet, opposite the relay bank that appears to do nothing at all. It's also slathered up in grease, so it may have been a problem point in the past.

When I push the start button it

1) Pulls in the SB relay
2) Pulls in the relay on the bottom of the playfield that resets the vari targets.
3) zeros out the score and home run reels
4) Score motor runs, then stops when the score reels are done.
5) The count unit next to the score motor rotates (it's a continual rotation).

It still appears that I get as far as step 4 on the Mr. Pinball startup list above. That was a whole lot of work pulling the cabinet panel for nothing...

#36 10 years ago

^^^

the "count unit"... are you referring to the "play meter"? it's 1976 machine, so it should have 6 "reels" in it...

or something else?

#37 10 years ago

^^^
the "count unit"... are you referring to the "play meter"? it's 1976 machine, so it should have 6 "reels" in it...
or something else?

It's a 1970 machine.

The two "count units" I referenced are circled in these photos (borrowed from IPDB, not of my machine). The one on the left rotates with the score motor when the start button is pushed. The one on the right doesn't do anything at this point.

image-9.jpgimage-9.jpg image-10.jpgimage-10.jpg

#38 10 years ago

ah, ok, i see the two stepper units you circled...

i'm having a hard time resolving them on my crappy ipad screen...

do they like the pic below? do they have one coil or two?

image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg

#39 10 years ago

The one on the left in my photo looks just like the one in your lower picture.

Your top picture is similar, but not exact. I can take a picture later if you'd like. It does have two coils.

#40 10 years ago

ok, 2 coils means it is a resetting stepper...

thinking out loud for a second... one of the is the ball count unit, and the other is the match unit...

does the one on the right (has 2 coils) have a disc that is "diamond shaped", rather than round? if so, i'm betting that is the ball count unit... if it is already "reset", it won't do anything...

i *think* the other one is the match unit... since you described "continual motion", i'm guessing there is only one coil on that one? it will advance 1 position every time the "ones" ("tens" maybe, i forget which one advances the match unit) reel is advanced...

just for giggles... fire up the game, push start button, and manually actuate the switch that is on the pf under the apron... that switch advances the ball count unit... until the ball count unit is advanced to 1, the machine will appear "dead" (flippers don't get power, etc.)...

#41 10 years ago

here is pic of what i mean by "diamond shaped disk"...

image.jpgimage.jpg

#42 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

ok, 2 coils means it is a resetting stepper...

Correct. I can step it in both directions manually.

Quoted from ccotenj:

does the one on the right (has 2 coils) have a disc that is "diamond shaped", rather than round?

I'll have to take another look at it. I don't recall.

Quoted from ccotenj:

since you described "continual motion", i'm guessing there is only one coil on that one? it will advance 1 position every time the "ones" reel is advanced...

Correct. What's the "ones" reel? Do you mean the score reel?

Quoted from ccotenj:

just for giggles... fire up the game, push start button, and manually actuate the switch that is on the pf under the apron... that switch advances the ball count unit... until the ball count unit is advanced to 1, the machine will appear "dead" (flippers don't get power, etc.)...

The ball eject switch you mean? I tried that last night. Nothing. As I also pointed out, there's no playfield power-- only the backbox lights up. What controls the playfield lighting? I have checked, and double checked all 6 (I think it was 6) fuses. There are two on the cabinet board, and 4 just inside the coin door attached to the side of the cabinet.

I think I found something relevant on pinrepair:

The Gottlieb "S" Start Relay.
Almost every Gottlieb EM with a reset bank has an "S" start relay (single and multi-player games.) When this relay gets activated (by pressing the coin door start button), the game goes through its start-up sequence. Generally speaking, here is the start-up sequence:
Press the start button on the coin door. This completes the circuit to the start relay, and causes this relay to pull in and close some switches.
The score motor starts.
The score reels reset to zero through the start relay and the score motor.
Any feature relays or feature banks reset.

    The reset bank solenoid pulls in, and resets all the relays in the bank.

The ball is served, and the game can begin.

My reset bank does not pull in. When it pull it in manually, it get a very loud buzz.

#43 10 years ago

- yup the score reel... could also be the 10's reel that advances the match unit, i don't remember off the top of my head...

- nope the switch to the "right" of the outhole switch... the one the ball would roll over when it is ejected into the shooter lane...

- hunting on a similar schematic for the pf lights... they won't come "on" (for the first time) until a game starts...

- might be getting somewhere there... hmmm... thinking about that...

wish you were closer... my brain works a lot better when i can actually see things... hopefully one of the other guys will chip in here and point out something...

#44 10 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

- nope the switch to the "right" of the outhole switch... the one the ball would roll over when it is ejected into the shooter lane.

I didn't notice that there was another switch. Either way, that switch working would be predicated by the outhole relay working, and it's currently dormant.

#45 10 years ago

yup, true dat...

thinking... it's more fun to think about pins than to do what i'm supposed to be doing...

#46 10 years ago

blueskying here...

have you checked the coil on the reset bank? they usually don't fail, but its always possible...

are you getting a good voltage to the reset bank?

#47 10 years ago

I haven't, but I will.

#48 10 years ago

worth a shot...

since you got no love when manually resetting the bank... also it might be worth running through the reset bank stuff that clay notes following the part about the "start relay" that you quoted above... that's a bit of a pita, but from reading that, if you are getting a "good" reset of score reels, clay indicates that the problem almost certainly lies in there...

the reset bank will release so you can flip it up if you loosen the wing nuts holding it in place... another fine example of gottlieb engineering...

#49 10 years ago

If you need parts or a backglass for your 1970 baseball. I am parting one out.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

#50 10 years ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

If you need parts or a backglass for your 1970 baseball. I am parting one out.

john, you got a vari-target left? i don't "need" one, but i'd like to have one to take apart and reassemble so i can see how they work and be prepared to fix the ones on my pro football when they do break...

chris

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