My first EM - Surfer. Newb needs help.

(Topic ID: 229178)

My first EM - Surfer. Newb needs help.


By Fifty

32 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 92 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Fifty
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 45 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Start up (resized).jpg
20181202_092503 (resized).jpg
20181201_223934 (resized).jpg
b3db985aa54a0b8b16dae06c767d9033d060cfcc (resized).png
Tools (resized).jpg
Pinball (resized).png
IMG_2351 (resized).JPG
scan0003 (resized).jpg
schematics C (resized).jpg
schematics C (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2018-11-26 at 9.54.31 PM (resized).png
20181125_213345 (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2018-11-24 at 4.46.13 PM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2018-11-24 at 4.45.59 PM (resized).png
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg

There are 92 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 32 days ago

Hi everyone,

I have repaired many SS pins right down to board components, but I do not have any experience on an EM. I have an electrical technician background, but it is only used on pinball machines.

I need some help. I bought a train wreck of an EM and I am troubleshooting it, but not having done this before it would be nice to hear some second opinions and some general "Yes, you are doing it right" or "No, you are doing that wrong" from others with more knowledge than me.

I am using pinrepair, and I have the schematic from PBR.

When I plug in the pin the backbox lights up and so do the coin door lights. That is pretty much it. The primary fuse holder was a corroded mess, as was the fuse so I replaced both. The line cord was also a mess so I have replaced it, but the readings are still off. According to the schematics I should be seeing 25V for the coils and 6V for the lamps. I'm only seeing 4V at the 10A fuse holders (LIGHTS) and 14V at the 15A fuse holder (coils). So I went back to the transformer and I am not seeing 25V from any tab on the transformer. Here are my readings. I am using my black lead on the ground lug.

ab0632958c1fc5cd16c295d61bf6d11f85147d6e (resized).jpg

I'm also getting 4V from another lug (LIGHTS) on the opposite side of the transformer (not shown in the picture).

As you can see the transformer is a mess but I've seen worse. Is there anything else I should be checking? A switch that deactivates high power?

#2 32 days ago

Well you are measuring wrong... the lug you labeled as 10v is actually the common for the 25v feed. You should see 25v from start to normal, and slightly higher from start to high. the 6v is measured from your 9v labeled lead to the lead on the backside. I think you'll find everything is normal.

#3 32 days ago

And when you measure at the fuse holders... make sure you are attached to the right return. For 25v its fairly easy to find a coil lug/black lead as the common. And for the 6v, measure across a lit bulb or the black lead of the bulb and the fuse location.

#4 32 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Well you are measuring wrong... the lug you labeled as 10v is actually the common for the 25v feed. You should see 25v from start to normal, and slightly higher from start to high. the 6v is measured from your 9v labeled lead to the lead on the backside. I think you'll find everything is normal.

Thank you. I am not use to working with AC as is probably very obvious.

Measuring from the common lug to START I am reading 30V. From common to HIGH I am reading 32V. I am also reading 6.5V to the backside of the transformer now that I am using the proper return. Everything on the transformer checks out. Thank you.

Moving onwards, when I power up the machine, I get backbox lights and coin door lights. What should be the next sequence of events?

#5 32 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thank you. I am not use to working with AC as is probably very obvious.
Measuring from the common lug to START I am reading 30V. From common to HIGH I am reading 32V. I am also reading 6.5V to the backside of the transformer now that I am using the proper return. Everything on the transformer checks out. Thank you.
Moving onwards, when I power up the machine, I get backbox lights and coin door lights. What should be the next sequence of events?

credits on the counter? did you try the start button?

#6 32 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

credits on the counter? did you try the start button?

Start button doesn't do anything. It is wired. I'll verify the wiring with the schematic.

I see the coin chute switches. When I activate either switch nothing happens. There are 15 credits already on the counter. I don't know how long they have been there.

I am going to check the tilt/drop/slam switches as well. I am guessing they should be normally open, but I'll verify with the schematic.

#7 31 days ago

and there is a lead thru the zero position contact on the credit unit, if its not closed (dirty etc) game wont start. can you start the score motor by hand?

#8 31 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

and there is a lead thru the zero position contact on the credit unit, if its not closed (dirty etc) game wont start. can you start the score motor by hand?

The credit unit is the cleanest bit of the pin. It is not binding and counts up/down without any issues. There is a lead through the zero position. Here is what it looks like with 0 credits;

20181111_200941 (resized).jpg

After I add a credit it looks like this. The switches are still all closed.

20181111_200958 (resized).jpg

I am not sure how to start a the score motor by hand.

#9 31 days ago

just rotate it by hand, once you start it, it should complete the 120 degree rotation. always validates that the 25v circuit is working.

you'll want to decrement the credit counter down to 2 or 3, thats why the chute has no effect, its at max credits.

#10 31 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

just rotate it by hand, once you start it, it should complete the 120 degree rotation. always validates that the 25v circuit is working.
you'll want to decrement the credit counter down to 2 or 3, thats why the chute has no effect, its at max credits.

I left the credit counter at 2. Powered up the pin. Tried hitting start again for the hell of it (nothing happened). I rotated the score motor counter-clockwise by hand. It did not start rotating on it's own. I will check to see that it is getting voltage. How easily should it rotate?

[EDIT] I found the pinwiki with examples of how the credit unit is supposed to look with zero, greater than zero, and max credits. I'll make sure to adjust the switches to match.

[EDIT2] Does the playfield need to be installed? It would be easier to troubleshoot this with it out of the way. I don't see why it would be needed right now.

#11 31 days ago

yes, it usually needs the pf. the moter is a little stiff from the gearing. but once you move the score motor off "home" a contact closes to help it complete the 1/3 rotation. if its not then there may be a fuse issue

#12 31 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

yes, it usually needs the pf. the moter is a little stiff from the gearing. but once you move the score motor off "home" a contact closes to help it complete the 1/3 rotation. if its not then there may be a fuse issue

I'm at work right now (Eastern Standard Time) but I'll verify the 25V is getting through the fuse to the motor.

#13 30 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

yes, it usually needs the pf. the moter is a little stiff from the gearing. but once you move the score motor off "home" a contact closes to help it complete the 1/3 rotation. if its not then there may be a fuse issue

pinhead52 Okay, so I'm happy to report a little progress. I managed to get the score motor to rotate. I took out my DMM and checked the connectivity of the bounce switch and the anti-cheat switch. I had no connectivity through the bounce switch even though I could see it was closed. I took some 1000 grit sandpaper I had and ran it over the contact points a few times. I did the same to the anti-cheat. I powered up the pin an was able to move the score motor. The score reels are all at zero now. There is a pretty loud buzz coming from inside the cabinet. It seems to be emanating from a relay marked V.

Pressing the START button still doesn't do anything. I also tried added a few credits and this did not work either.

#14 30 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

pinhead52 Okay, so I'm happy to report a little progress. I managed to get the score motor to rotate. I took out my DMM and checked the connectivity of the bounce switch and the anti-cheat switch. I had no connectivity through the bounce switch even though I could see it was closed. I took some 1000 grit sandpaper I had and ran it over the contact points a few times. I did the same to the anti-cheat. I powered up the pin an was able to move the score motor. The score reels are all at zero now. There is a pretty loud buzz coming from inside the cabinet. It seems to be emanating from a relay marked V.
Pressing the START button still doesn't do anything. I also tried added a few credits and this did not work either.

look at the cir dia and tell us what V is... so if it haqd a ball, it should kick it out to the shooter lane.

#15 30 days ago

One of the first things I would do, spend an hour or so with a points file or 600-1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and go through every relay and contact set, cabinet, playfield both sides and backbox.

While doing that check the contacts to make sure the relays move easily, and the contacts travel a tiny bit more than just barely touching.

That will revive most problems.

Second, check the steppers by pressing the relays to ratchet them back and forth. It should be smooth. If they are very sticky, a few drops of oil can help in troubleshooting to loose things up, but they will need to be disassembled and cleaned if they’re gummed up.

While checking the steppers, some contact cleaner on cue tips or pure isopropyl alcohol for electronics on cue tips to white the sliding tracks and sliders will revive those contacts.

Don’t forget the score wheels as well.

It will be a couple we’ll spent hours that will end in a mostly running pin with much less left to debug.

#16 30 days ago

PS contact cleaner and isopropyl are flammable.

Wait an hour or more now it’s cooler before turning the power on.

Otherwise you may have a pin flambé.

#17 30 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

look at the cir dia and tell us what V is... so if it haqd a ball, it should kick it out to the shooter lane.

The relay is labelled V but I don't think it is from this machine. It is in position Q.

20181112_214738 (resized).jpg

There is also a relay labelled W in position U.

When I turn the game on, relay Q and U lock on right away. These are the GAME OVER and 1st BALL relays.

This game is a pretty big mess as you can see by the wiring. Two of the relays have even been replaced with modern electromechanical relays.

#18 30 days ago
Quoted from Jptrains:

One of the first things I would do, spend an hour or so with a points file or 600-1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and go through every relay and contact set, cabinet, playfield both sides and backbox.
While doing that check the contacts to make sure the relays move easily, and the contacts travel a tiny bit more than just barely touching.
That will revive most problems.
Second, check the steppers by pressing the relays to ratchet them back and forth. It should be smooth. If they are very sticky, a few drops of oil can help in troubleshooting to loose things up, but they will need to be disassembled and cleaned if they’re gummed up.
While checking the steppers, some contact cleaner on cue tips or pure isopropyl alcohol for electronics on cue tips to white the sliding tracks and sliders will revive those contacts.
Don’t forget the score wheels as well.
It will be a couple we’ll spent hours that will end in a mostly running pin with much less left to debug.

I will definitely be cleaning up the steppers as I can already see some are sticking but I want to make sure the pin is able to go through its normal start-up sequence before I do any of this. I'll will avoid using anything flammable.

#19 30 days ago

I have been cleaning steppers for 2 days now on a recent Project, if your steppers are sticking it will never work right. I know its a bitch but they need attention.

#20 30 days ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

I have been cleaning steppers for 2 days now on a recent Project, if your steppers are sticking it will never work right. I know its a bitch but they need attention.

I agree, but I'm only seeing one stepper under the playfield that is a bit sticky. I think it is for the bonus. The player unit is gummed up and needs a good cleaning but is still rotating freely.

I'm trying to avoid creating new problems for myself until I'm more familiar with the start-up sequence. Right now, I can't even start a game.

#21 30 days ago

the first ball relay is energized all the time except for when the ball is in the shooter lane at ball one. These coils always need replacing. Maybe game over as well...

#22 30 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

the first ball relay is energized all the time except for when the ball is in the shooter lane at ball one. These coils always need replacing. Maybe game over as well...

Odd, you'd think it would be reverse so that the 1st ball relay was energized only when the ball was in the shooter lane. Saves punishing the relay the entire time the pin is on.

Game over looks a little crispy. Upon closer inspection the label is definitely burned. I'm more concerned that these relays are not the correct ones. How do I know this relay will even work? Has the proper number of switches?

I am having difficulties reading the schematics. Some areas are easy to read, and other areas confuse me. For example, the Game Over relay (Q) I can see it on the schematics, but it's not clear to me which switches on the relay should be open or closed. I figured the switches would be grouped on the schematic for ease of use but they are spread out.

I'll just have to get use to the way everything is laid out.

#23 30 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Odd, you'd think it would be reverse so that the 1st ball relay was energized only when the ball was in the shooter lane. Saves punishing the relay the entire time the pin is on.
Game over looks a little crispy. Upon closer inspection the label is definitely burned. I'm more concerned that these relays are not the correct ones. How do I know this relay will even work? Has the proper number of switches?
I am having difficulties reading the schematics. Some areas are easy to read, and other areas confuse me. For example, the Game Over relay (Q) I can see it on the schematics, but it's not clear to me which switches on the relay should be open or closed. I figured the switches would be grouped on the schematic for ease of use but they are spread out.
I'll just have to get use to the way everything is laid out.

The cir diagram will give you the coil type. But yea if the paper is crispy then the coil probably needs replacing, replace both. there is a contact on the first ball relay that prevents the game from starting unless the relay is pulled in. (you can temporarily tie wrap this relay closed and dis connect the coil) The coil types/high coil resistance will allow these to stay locked on, just like those door relays that are always on when the game is powered on

3rd chart from the bottom is my6 go to resource for gottlieb

https://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html
R20-5, A-9736, A-7677 relay 25 30v hold, Alt, Coin Lockout, 1st ball

#24 30 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

The cir diagram will give you the coil type. But yea if the paper is crispy then the coil probably needs replacing, replace both. there is a contact on the first ball relay that prevents the game from starting unless the relay is pulled in. (you can temporarily tie wrap this relay closed and dis connect the coil) The coil types/high coil resistance will allow these to stay locked on, just like those door relays that are always on when the game is powered on
3rd chart from the bottom is my6 go to resource for gottlieb
https://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html
R20-5, A-9736, A-7677 relay 25 30v hold, Alt, Coin Lockout, 1st ball

Looks like I need a A-9740 and a A-9736 then. I'll see if I can get one locally. If not, I'll put in a PBR order.

#25 30 days ago

Before you starting filing and cleaning things please check Clay's superb guide, a must-read for all newbies: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1

Have an especially good look at 1f.

#26 30 days ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Before you starting filing and cleaning things please check Clay's superb guide, a must-read for all newbies: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1
Have an especially good look at 1f.

Thanks for reading my mind, currieddog . Well said. I upvoted your post.

#27 30 days ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Before you starting filing and cleaning things please check Clay's superb guide, a must-read for all newbies: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1
Have an especially good look at 1f.

Thanks guys. I'm going through this website constantly. I'm also part of pinballninja so I've been watch a slew of new videos on EM repairs.

#28 30 days ago
Quoted from currieddog:

Before you starting filing and cleaning things please check Clay's superb guide, a must-read for all newbies: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1
Have an especially good look at 1f.

Yes, would not recommend wholesale cleaning. If your new, start slow and dont create more issues for yourself. There are certain folk I cringe at when I have to go fix their games

#29 29 days ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Yes, would not recommend wholesale cleaning. If your new, start slow and dont create more issues for yourself. There are certain folk I cringe at when I have to go fix their games

Slow and steady...

There is some obvious crud on the player unit that I am going to clean off but I am going to take my time with it. In the meantime, this thread will go quiet, and I'll place an order for those new coils from PBR.

Hang tight everyone and thanks for the help so far!

#30 24 days ago

pinhead52 I cleaned the player stepper unit and it is rotating properly now. I think someone used 3 in 1 oil and it created a gummed up mess in some areas. I've cleaned everything with degreaser and then isopropyl alcohol and bought some clear synthetic silicone grease to re-lube things a bit.

I managed to borrow two coils for game over and the 1st ball, but I'm do not think my coils are bad. When I turn the game on I can see the coils are energizing. That tells me they are fine.

With credits on the machine, pressing start still does nothing. I am able to manually move the score motor and it completes the rotation on it's own.

I am not sure where to go from here. Do I first work on the credit switches and try to figure out why they are not adding credits to the machine or do I ignore this and continue to manually add the credits and try to figure out why the game won't start?

#31 24 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

With credits on the machine, pressing start still does nothing

Quoted from Fifty:

do I ignore this and continue to manually add the credits and try to figure out why the game won't start?

If the Replay Button doesn't activate the Replay Button (V) relay, inpect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires.
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

Pinball (resized).png
#32 24 days ago

howardr I just want to make sure I am understanding the terminology being used here. Being new to EM's I am not clear on some of the lingo. When you say REPLAY BUTTON are you just talking about the START BUTTON? I just want to be sure we are talking about the same thing here.

I will try the jumper wires. I had not gotten to section 3 of pinrepair yet. I'm only at section 2j. I'll read ahead a bit.

#33 24 days ago

Yes, I believe he does mean the start button that's on the front door. The schematics shows that if there's
replays on the Replay Reel, and the set of contacts on that reel are adjusted properly and making contact,
the Replay Relay (V) should energize, and in turn, energize the Start Relay (S). Howard mentioned to check
(and jump) the contacts that he hi-lighted in red. I'd first begin with the Anti-Cheat switch. A few times I had
dead machines, and cleaning that switch at least got the machine to fire up. That's the switch on the inside of the
coin door below the start (replay) switch.
BTW: If you manually activate the Start Relay (S), does the machine fire up and at least try to reset?

#34 23 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

When you say REPLAY BUTTON are you just talking about the START BUTTON?

Yes that's right. Sorry for any confusion.

#35 22 days ago

howardr mopar pinhead52 Okay guys, I had a little time tonight.

If I manually activate the Start Relay (S), the machine does not do anything.

I have not tried using alligator clip wires yet as I can't seem to find mine. I blame myself for leaving out my electronic toolbox with my kids in the room.

I have bigger problems it seems. I mentioned this pin was a mess right?

Here are my Replay Button relay (V) and Tilt Hold relay (H). I have no way of testing these new electromechanical relays, nor do I hear them energizing or de-energizing.

20181120_200929 (resized).jpg

Add to that...

A previous owner took the original V and H relays in this pin and relocated them to Q and U. The original Q and U are nowhere to be found.
20181120_200949 (resized).jpg

Ignoring the new electromechanical V and H relays for the time-being, are the original V and H relays compatible to Q and U? I need to confirm that V and H have the proper switch stacks, number of switches, and whether the switches are open, closed, or make-break. I need to confirm the coil strengths as well. This is going to be a pain in the ass.

I will need help confirming things. I'm getting better at reading these schematics, but I'll need affirmation from anyone willing.

Is it possible to buy original relays from PBR with the proper switch stacks pre-installed? I would like to remove the new electromechanical relays and revert everything back to the way it was from the factory.

#36 22 days ago

On the left side of the schematic is the list of relays. Under "contacts" are listed the number of each type of switch on that stack, A open, B closed, C make-break. It doesn't look like any of those four you mentioned are interchangeable. Since your relay labeled V has five contacts and a blue-black lead wire, its switch stack is likely from the original Q. Probably your best bet for finding replacements is the EM parts seeking thread.

#37 22 days ago
Quoted from Pinbee:

On the left side of the schematic is the list of relays. Under "contacts" are listed the number of each type of switch on that stack, A open, B closed, C make-break. It doesn't look like any of those four you mentioned are interchangeable. Since your relay labeled V has five contacts and a blue-black lead wire, its switch stack is likely from the original Q. Probably your best bet for finding replacements is the EM parts seeking thread.

Ah, I didn't see the 'contacts' area. So for Q (AG-9740), there are 3 contacts. 2A, 2B, 1C. I don't see any legend stating A=open, B=closed? Is it on the schematic somewhere or is this just a standard that I was not aware of?

So just for my own reference...

Q is 3 contacts. Open, Closed, Make-Break
U is 3 contacts. Open, Closed, Make-Break
V is 1 contact. Open
H is 3 contacts. Open, Closed, Make-Break

So I could swap U and H and get that relay back where is belongs. My V does have 5 wires connected to it. Hmm... The schematic shows it should only be 1 contact. Why are 5 wires connected to it?

#38 22 days ago

Q has two open (2A) two closed (2B) and one make-break (1C) total of five. U has six total, V two open. The one contact you're seeing on the schematic is the one that energizes the coil. The others in the switch stack are activated at that point. But...to make it interesting they are scattered all over the schematic, identified by the letter name of the coil and the color of the wire. For instance on the left of your schematic at index 6 is a switch from the H stack with a WH-BLK (white-black) wire. It energizes the playfield lights.

#39 22 days ago
Quoted from Pinbee:

Q has two open (2A) two closed (2B) and one make-break (1C) total of five. U has six total, V two open. The one contact you're seeing on the schematic is the one that energizes the coil. The others in the switch stack are activated at that point. But...to make it interesting they are scattered all over the schematic, identified by the letter name of the coil and the color of the wire. For instance on the left of your schematic at index 6 is a switch from the H stack with a WH-BLK (white-black) wire. It energizes the playfield lights.

Thank you for this. The schematic has been driving me nuts. It confuses the hell out of me. Shit is spread out everywhere. For example, I just want to trace the wires coming off the Q coil. I should have black on one side of the coil providing 25V and BL+BLK on the other side, but I don't. I have two black on one side of the coil and a short solid blue wire that goes to one of the switches in the stack on Q. The short blue wire isn't on the schematics that I can see. Only then do I have the BL+BLK wire that heads over to the score motor 4C. To me, they missed a switch.

Reading this now http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#schematic

I had not read ahead this far, but it seems I should as I am missing key items in the schematics.

#40 22 days ago

Although not on the schematic, that Q coil wiring sounds maybe right.
I have a busy morning, but I'll see about getting a pic of the Q Relay off
of the Surfer that I have set up before I head out.. (T)

#41 22 days ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Although not on the schematic, that Q coil wiring sounds maybe right.
I have a busy morning, but I'll see about getting a pic of the Q Relay off
of the Surfer that I have set up before I head out.. (T)

Thank you.

I appreciate all the help guys.

#42 22 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Is it possible to buy original relays from PBR with the proper switch stacks pre-installed? I would like to remove the new electromechanical relays and revert everything back to the way it was from the factory.

Good plan but it's pretty easy to assemble switches and put them together into a relay. Hooking up the wires correctly could take a little hunting on the schematic so getting pictures is a good plan too.

#43 22 days ago

Yea, it sounds like the Q's coil wires are accurate. The extra black is a jumping common,
and the blue wire from the lower switch is to keep the coil energized until the score motor
opens a switch to break that current..
What coils is it you need to bring back to factory?

IMG_1413 (resized).JPGIMG_1414 (resized).JPG
#44 22 days ago

Q, U, V and H. Photos of these would be great. Thanks!

#45 21 days ago

Sorry about some pics being blurry. I have a nice Cannon, but sometimes automatically it goes in and
out of focus while shooting. Have to get that looked at..
Let me know on any wire color codes you can't make out, and I'll re-check and write them out for you. (T)

IMG_1415 (resized).JPGIMG_1416 (resized).JPGIMG_1417 (resized).JPGIMG_1418 (resized).JPGIMG_1419 (resized).JPGIMG_1420 (resized).JPG
#46 21 days ago

Set up your camera in macro mode....
and then try with or without flash.....

Happy Thanksgiving!

#47 21 days ago

The first photo is perfect. I can make out the colours no problem. The rest are in yellow lighting so it's tough to make out the colours. I can see the switches though so that's a start! Thank you!

#48 21 days ago
Quoted from Theo_Ioannis:

Set up your camera in macro mode...

Yea okay Thanks, but I'm not really into cameras.
I have a Cannon "Power Shot SX20 IS" I usually run on Auto, but the other modes are
C, M (manual), AV, TV, P, SCN, and 6 others that are symbols. How would I set it on
macro? It seems as if it mostly has the focusing irregularities when shooting close ups..

#49 21 days ago
Quoted from Mopar:

I have a Cannon "Power Shot SX20 IS"

Like this one? (green arrow)
sx20is_backopen-675x450-d (resized).jpg

Just press the left side of a button and ready to go (flower logo)

354px-Macro_symbol_svg (resized).png
#50 20 days ago

Yes, I did finally found that flower after googling, but still not that satisfied on the focusing.
It seems using macro, zooming is still possible, but not with super macro. Does that sound correct?
Best to just stay with macro, right?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 11.99
€ 45.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
£ 99.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinballToys
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 109.99
$ 219.99
Lighting - Led
PinballBulbs
From: $ 179.99
Lighting - Led
Comet Pinball
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 159.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 185.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 137.00
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 41.25
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
From: $ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Music City Pinball
$ 180.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Customs
$ 53.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Decals
Bright Lights Pinball
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 239.99
Lighting - Led
PinballBulbs
There are 92 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside