Quoted from baldtwit:

the old style steppers with the metal ratchet have the spring inside the coils to push the plunger all the way out.
iir (start worrying), it's mostly the reset coil that has the spring because the pawl linkage doesn't fill the notch in the plunger. Without the spring, the plunger would rattle around on the linkage end. The plunger is mostly hollow and the spring goes inside it.
there is a torsion spring on the reset linkage that also pulls the reset plunger out of the coil, but that spring doesn't help once the reset pawl is sitting on the ratchet edge.
the step-up linkage usually had a square plate on it that fit snugly into the plunger notch and an external spring levers the step-up plunger out of the coil.
getting a metal sleeve out almost always requires a special tool unless the sleeve pushes out easily by hand. The tool is basically a metal rod that has one end turned down to the ID of the sleeve, while the rest is the OD of the sleeve.
you stick the small end in the sleeve and as you pound on the end of the tool to drive out the sleeve, the larger end takes the place of the sleeve in the coil. Put the new sleeve on the small end that is now poking out of the coil and pound the other way to install.
without the tool, the coil often falls apart because the wire is wound directly around the sleeve. Even with the tool, coils are frequently destroyed because the sleeve is stuck. The only tools I've seen are custom made.
if the metal sleeve is worn thru, it's way less hassle to just replace the coil. A used one is good enough and often cost less than the postage.
if it's a rare coil that the metal sleeve moves easily by hand, push out the sleeve with the replacement, then push out the replacement with another replacement. Goal is to always keep a sleeve in the coil and have the flared end of the sleeve at the wire lug end of the coil.
wrt the clutches, this weeks conclusion is the rough side goes against the surface you want to slip. Your metal clutch plates probably have the etched hash pattern, so the smooth side goes against the plate. Eventually the etched surface fill sup with ground leather and oil, so the clutch slips on whatever side it feels like. No problem.
some clutch plates have three nubs and the leather washer corresponding holes. You'd think that would be enough to not slip on that interface, but it will anyway. As long as the clutch slips when it should, don't worry about which surface is actually slipping. Previous people who changed the clutches certainly didn't since you'll find them installed randomly.
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