Using Conductive Epoxy. Tips? [update: I DID A BAD THING, CRAP!]

Hey guys-

I've got a single column out on my DMD.

I've got some conductive epoxy that I'll be using to try and fix a cracked connection pin in my DMD where the pin meets the glass.

The package is a powder that needs to be mixed with water. It comes with a brush (because it's designed for window defogger repair), but I feel like a small syringe may be more effective?

Anyone used this method before?

Any tips?

PS- that epoxy seems about as expensive as crack! like $15 for a gram of the powder. ... though I'm not really up to date on my crack pricing...

#2 12 years ago

CCR

Cliffy

Cliffy Protectors

San Ramon, CA

20y 90,150 1,625 19 17

Search RGP for copper defroster kit display repair. I really don't wanna type all that up again from years ago

Basically, however, you can save a LOT of money by using a rear window defroster repair kit from your local auto parts store. I fixed my Star Wars display years ago and it still works fine. The trick I used was to strengthen the copper paint with super glue after it dried and tested as working.

#3 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Quoted from Cliffy:
Search RGP for copper defroster kit display repair. I really don't wanna type all that up again from years ago
Basically, however, you can save a LOT of money by using a rear window defroster repair kit from your local auto parts store. I fixed my Star Wars display years ago and it still works fine. The trick I used was to strengthen the copper paint with super glue after it dried and tested as working.

Thanks a lot!

#4 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/a0725cbac2831a82/c4b1b4eaf53aa3d1?lnk=gst&q=copper+defroster+cliffy#c4b1b4eaf53aa3d1

heres a link for anyone interested. I will update my post with results and pics in the coming week.

#5 12 years ago

ALX

donjagra

Pinside member

I repaired a DMD recently. I found it harder than it looked. After trial and error, this is what ended up working the best.

Short synopsis of my experience. I started with super glue and glued the leads in place to keep them from moving when the board is flexed. Then I soldered the leads to the traces, which are tiny, and got them working. When it was solid, I super glued the solder in place.

It isn't all that different that Cliffy's method, but I used solder instead of the copper paint. I think the copper paint would have been easier.

#6 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Quoted from donjagra:
I repaired a DMD recently. I found it harder than it looked. After trial and error, this is what ended up working the best.
Short synopsis of my experience. I started with super glue and glued the leads in place to keep them from moving when the board is flexed. Then I soldered the leads to the traces, which are tiny, and got them working. When it was solid, I super glued the solder in place.
It isn't all that different that Cliffy's method, but I used solder instead of the copper paint. I think the copper paint would have been easier.

Thanks Don- I'll let you know how it works out.

#7 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

OH crap! so there were some pieces of double-side foam tape that held the glass and the board together. I needed to slice these in order to get access to the bad connection.

Well, as I was slicing the foam tape, I cut to hard and slid my knife right into the 'trace tape' that connects the traces from the board to the glass display.

I'd guess I'm pretty much screwed at this point, right? Picture following shortly.

#8 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Pretty much shot myself in the foot on this one.

I guess I could hack it solder a thin wire from point a to point b. Anyone know if you can buy this tape anywhere?

IMAG0224.jpg

#9 12 years ago

JJS

jonogo

Pinside member

12y 75,300 2,987 1 51

I've NEVER worked on a pin before in this capacity, but I do have a degree in electronics..

That being said, you *should* be able to reconnect the torn traces with some form of conduction. Maybe some of that epoxy?

Dang dude, tough break! I'm sure someone on here will have an idea! Good luck!

-j

#10 12 years ago

ALX

donjagra

Pinside member

Work slow and reconnect them. You already have the epoxy, right?

If you read my first post, I did mention that this repair was harder than it looks.

#11 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Well folks, the damage is actually worse than that picture.

I actually peeled off the entire row side of connectors to take this picture. There were also a few other spots that were roughed up.

I'm sure it's fixable, but I lack the fine motor skills and patience to make it happen. I'm also entertaining offers on this game, and I wouldn't feel right selling a DMD that I wasn't confident in.

Anyway, if someone wants a working DMD that's in 2 parts, I'd be happy to ship them out for $10.

My fault for being too aggressive. But man, it's no fun sticking $200 into a SFII!

#12 12 years ago

RobertWinter

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 117K 2,302 2

There should be a lot of used DMDs available shortly now that ColorDMD is rolling out. I'm sure if you ask, someone should have a nice used one available for a lot less than $200.

#13 12 years ago

LAW

dung

Pinside member

12y 86,050 5,578 6 30

Quoted from RobertWinter:
There should be a lot of used DMDs available shortly now that ColorDMD is rolling out. I'm sure if you ask, someone should have a nice used one available for a lot less than $200.

Maybe once they release a software update so that it works with more than just afm. Right now people are probably going to hold onto the ones they are pulling to use as spares. If the color dmd's would work with a number of games I could see people getting to the point where they would start selling off their originals.

#14 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Thanks for the heads up guys! I did order a replacement already- I've got friends in town for the weekend and wanted her to be up and running by then. Shipping the sliced one off to a fellow pinsider for $10.

I bet he'll be able to repair it. Hopefully he'll post some pics for us if he does!

#15 12 years ago

OOF

Erik

Pinside member

Franklin, TN

12y 117K 7,693

I was really hoping you'd get this working and let us know it was easy stuff. I have a dmd with two vertical lines out but don't want to get into a hot mess.

If you're a misery-loves-company type of guy then you will be comforted in knowing I just broke a CFTBL ramp while removing it, sliced my finger on the broken plastic, and then had to pay through the nose for a new ramp.

#16 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Quoted from Erik:
I was really hoping you'd get this working and let us know it was easy stuff. I have a dmd with two vertical lines out but don't want to get into a hot mess.
If you're a misery-loves-company type of guy then you will be comforted in knowing I just broke a CFTBL ramp while removing it, sliced my finger on the broken plastic, and then had to pay through the nose for a new ramp.

Better than paying for a new finger?

Pinball can be a taxing hobby sometimes ...

#17 12 years ago

ALX

donjagra

Pinside member

These can be tricky to repair, I described what I was doing, but I thought a picture might make more sense.

0328022105.jpg

#18 12 years ago

PTM

BigPhil

Pinside member

Consett

12y 37,150 295 9

I tried to repair mine. I had 2 lines out. First attempt at repairing, I knocked another 3 out. Then when I fitted it back into the machine, the speaker vibrations sent a crack right down the middle. All lines out!

Goodbye £100. Hello new DMD.

P1030978.JPG P1030976.JPG

#19 12 years ago

JAS

TheCount

Inactive member

Fredericksburg, TX

12y 35,400 90 3 6

I have found that repairing the DMD's that won't split apart, and the ribbon cable is between the two pieces, is almost impossible. I have one that is the same style as the one in BigPhil's pics (I think it's a Cherry brand?) and I took out several other columns while attempting to fix one. I ended up fixing all of them and getting it 100%, but I don't think it was worth my time or frustration

#20 12 years ago

AMM

tonymiddendorf

Inactive member

Quoted from TheCount:
I have found that repairing the DMD's that won't split apart, and the ribbon cable is between the two pieces, is almost impossible. I have one that is the same style as the one in BigPhil's pics (I think it's a Cherry brand?) and I took out several other columns while attempting to fix one. I ended up fixing all of them and getting it 100%, but I don't think it was worth my time or frustration

That's what mine was at well. I pretty much needed to destroy it just to get access to the area that needed repair.

#21 12 years ago

OOF

Erik

Pinside member

Franklin, TN

12y 117K 7,693

Quoted from BigPhil:
I tried to repair mine. I had 2 lines out. First attempt at repairing, I knocked another 3 out. Then when I fitted it back into the machine, the speaker vibrations sent a crack right down the middle. All lines out!

Wow that sounds like the most frustrating thing ever. That's all I need to convince me not to bother

#22 12 years ago

PTM

BigPhil

Pinside member

Consett

12y 37,150 295 9

Quoted from Erik:
BigPhil said:I tried to repair mine. I had 2 lines out. First attempt at repairing, I knocked another 3 out. Then when I fitted it back into the machine, the speaker vibrations sent a crack right down the middle. All lines out!
Wow that sounds like the most frustrating thing ever. That's all I need to convince me not to bother

Don't let me put you off. I took a dremmel drill to mine. Drill bits I had were useless. I guess when you tackle a job, the biggest part of the battle is having the right tools. Oh, and skills.

I had neither!

#23 12 years ago

ALX

donjagra

Pinside member