Problem with the freeze method is yes, the glue no longer adheres... to the MYLAR. The glue will still be firmly adhered to the playfield and will need to be removed by soaking it with naphtha or Goo Gone and gently and PATIENTLY rubbing it off.

How much mylar are we talking here? Is the entire playfield mylared? If so, you're honestly looking at about 6-8 hours of hard work... and I'd recommend a complete playfield tear down if you're going to go that far.

If the mylar is in good shape and isn't bubbling, I would just take an exacto knife, cut off the excess flap, and clean up whatever glue is underneath.

If you really don't want to remove all the mylar...

To get in there with an exacto you're going to have to remove some parts.

For the top pic there is two things you can try. Heat that area with a hair dryer to soften the glue and try to stick it back down. If it just won't stick or hold very well, I would slice that "buckle" right down the middle, take a hair dryer, heat it back up a bit, then press it down.

For areas like the second pic, just cut off the excess that is sticking up and take a little naphtha and attack any sticky glue residue that may be left behind.

I use a razor blade and lay it flat on the playfield for the cuts. Be careful once you start it is hard to stop.

Goo gone

I used some 100% orange oil (sold in a spritzer as air freshener). Worked better than goo gone on the residue in my game and smelled nice as a bonus.

Brand Name??

Mia Rose "Air Therapy" I got it at Trader Joes, if you have them in your region.

This can cause scratches where the edges meet the PF. I allow the Goo Gone to sit for 5 minutes, they use a 2" or so piece of plastic with the corner rounded, and "push" the crap along. The key is a very flat part that is going against the PF.

Sometimes you get the top part off, and there is residual. Don't keep going at this, move along to other GG soaked areas, and re-apply more GG over the residual, again wait, and come back to it.

Doing this, with freeze spray removal, makes mylar not bad at all..

If you come by again, drop in for some beer and pinball

Use the air can (freeze spray) upside down. Lift a corner, spray it and slowly pull it up, but don't force sections that don't come up, just spray more. It won't lift smoothly, but in sections sort of, hard to explain. Spray on the mylar, and underneath the bend of where you are lifting it.

After the Mylar is off, then get a flat piece of plastic to scrape the crap off, but round the corners so they don't scrape or dig in, and instead of "scrape" per say, sort of push it along, not adding too much force to the PF. You will figure out the pressure needed. It takes some figuring out, but less force and less sharp tools are the key.

Someone posted a good vid of one of the restorers doing this, and I was surprised to see he too used a random piece of flat plastic like I do.

My two experiences with removing Mylar were on a Taxi and Funhouse. The Taxi had many places where the Mylar had lifted and some edges coming up, so it was a no-brainer for removal. My FH only had a few places of lifting. My Taxi's clear over the inserts showed "spiderwebbing" before I removed the Mylar, but I was surprised to find a few inserts on my FH that had the same look after I removed the Mylar as they didn't look like that before. I'm not sure if I would remove the Mylar on the FH again if I would have known what it looked like in the end. I can remove the inserts, sand them down and put decals over them and clear coat it to get rid of the webbed clear.

Just a word of caution that you may not like what you end up with when removing the Mylar on your PF. It's a crap shoot it seems on games of that era.

Hope it works out well for you.