I had one of those about 20 years ago. It put out so much heat I once melted a pair of synthetic gloves while warming my hands from several feet away!

Your cabinet is looking really nice

If there’s a future need for hammer paint finish, maybe try the standard rattle can. You might’ve been partly fighting with the trigger style valve in terms of spitting blobs. I’ve never had that issue with the regular cans.

I’ve done stuff like that...oops! Time for a little fiberglass filler, bondo, frisket, paint...

If you want to make it go away, no need to sand the whole thing off. Just fill the hole like you did originally with all the other original defects in the wood. Then remove the legs and coin door (and the coin door trim). Mask/protect the coin door opening and surrounding sides. Apply frisket film to the front carefully cut out the silver areas to create a handmade stencil for the silver. Touch up the repair area, feathering it out. Remove frisket. Reapply clear coat. Reassemble. Whew! Or....plug it with a grommet and see who notices! Bottom line, if you’re keeping it just do whatever makes you happy.

Usable yes, but not amazing - considerable planking and paint loss. It would make a fun wall piece. (Not trying to make anyone wrong, mostly don’t want op to feel badly about his harvest.)

Enjoying the progress you’re making! I’m impressed that you’ve soldiered on through the winter. Are you still working in the garage or did you move into the house?

Edit: I can see from the pictures that you’re still in the garage!

You made the correct call with sockets first, braid second.

Truly excellent public service documenting the harness with such clarity.

Yup - I have become a certified Molex addict. I put every mech and even many switches on plugs when I rebuild a game. It makes future maintenance sooooo much easier.

Such good, tidy work and terrific documentation. Keep it up!

Those linkage pins really aren’t so tough to push in and out. Just gotta have the right size tool. I think I used my smallest nail set the last time I did one. A vice to hold the assembly while removing the pin is helpful.

I did this once on a playfield with thick clear. It works.

In my experience, no. The difference is twofold: the washer distributes pressure on a flat surface whereas the posts distribute along a thin edge. The thin edge of the star post is much more likely to create an impression. Secondly, the washers have a smaller diameter than the star posts, so if they do make a mark, the mark is always completely covered by the post. When a star post makes a mark, it can become visible as a slight bulge. Posts must also must be perfectly realigned to their groove anytime they are removed or part of the groove will stick out and be visible.

I damn near burnt a playfield to the ground with a similar mishap. One of the screws for a ball guide just happened to barely touch the end of the leg of a gi braid staple. When I powered on the game, it energized the rail. Smoke started coming out from under the playfield. I shut the power off, flipped up the playfield and smothered the smoldering spot. Saved it! Just like you said, I couldn’t have done that if I tried!

Superlube is my go to, but I’ve never taken a slow mo to count the rip lol! Great job on all of this

Loving your science lab approach to this

I did the same thing on your old Seawitch!

That looks really good!

Quality rattle cans for sure. It’s was my go to until I started spraying my own mixes with a hvlp setup.

This has been my main pinball reading while moving and getting my house ready to sell. Although I am glad to see you near the end of the tunnel, I must say I will be sad to see your great thread come to a close. Not many document in such detail. This has been a great service and good entertainment.

Hard to tell with the glass glare but that playfield looks very restorable.

I thought I was treating myself to a clean and easy path getting full flipper kits for my last project. Think again. In my case, either the flipper shafts were a tad too fat or the bushings a tad too narrow. Either way, the result was slightly sticky flippers. Wound up replacing both the bats and the bushings. Fine now, but not the best experience. Par for the course these days with new parts. The quality control and precision just isn’t there.