Redmond, WA
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(Topic ID: 265203)
Linked Games
Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979-
Quicksilver
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:First coats of primer sanded with 220g. Gentle pass with the orbital, then passes by hand to smooth finish.
Amazing info thank you!
How long did you wait between primer coat for sanding? I was told 4 days but it is taking me forever to do my several coats of primers...
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:So about that silver.....
I’m learning the hard way that spraying metallic paints with flakes isn’t easy without a dedicated spray gun. It has been difficult with the rattle cans when trying to spray a larger area. After doing most of the back box, where’s what I learned
* Grey primer base makes it hard to see spray coverage while spraying. The last primer layer should have been white.
* If I sprayed at 6 inches, I got orange peel rough surface & it laid down lousy. If I sprayed at 3 inches, the flakes tended to pool and not spread out & dark streaks appeared in the paint. But the surface did dry smooth.
* The flakes in the paint created awful overspray. The flakes go everywhere & my ventilation in my garage isn’t the best. I should have sprayed the black last! I taped those areas off, but I’m not sure if it worked yet. What drove me nuts is that the flake overspray got on sides that I already finished, and created rough areas to the touch.
So this is how I’m proceeding...
1) Spray horizontal surfaces only
2) Multiple layers at 3 inches. Repeat until no streaks visible.
3) Mask any surface that isn’t being sprayed to control unwanted overspray.
Photos hard to tell, but the silver DOES look nice. Shiny, smooth & reflective. Look at the paint can in the reflection. Just going to go slow & make it look as best I can. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
impressive perseverance, i couldn't deal with all the flakes! I bailed out and I am trying two coats of sating grey then metallic on top 
3 weeks later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:I also sprayed for coats of the semi gloss varnish on the bottom of the head it test it. This stuff sprayed as a very wide fine mist. Secret is quick passes & thin coats. No sanding in between. Let the layers build up. Turned out nice. I’m definitely applying to the entire cabinet.
i am gonna have to give it a try with mine... i have been lazy! how many coats did you end up doing? How much time in between?
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:So I ran out of wire for the light board.
you should go with this, not running out anytime soon after that 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Q2VLGD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SuR6FbXSZDBY9
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:#8 screws won’t fit through the playfield posts. Hence why these 6-32 2inch posts are standard.
yes there was a long discussion on this. Some of the options included using the shorter post with these method giving you a little more thread into the Tnut, that's what i used for my quicksilver scratch build.
If you want the original longer post, there isn't a good way to do this without only getting a few threads in your Tnut. Else best use Stern factory solution with a screw/bolt coming from underneath the PF through the post with a nut on top.
Quoted from play_pinball:Edit: oops I didn’t see you also mentioned this.
I thought of a workaround for this that I did to get a better connection: 1/2” forstner bit to route out some depth for the t-nut. Worked great and wish I had thought of it sooner, before I put my game together.
Did this on my F2K because there just wasn’t any way of getting a post to get a good thread over the spinner bracket and using the shorter posts caused the spinners not sit right. Only took about the thickness of the t-nut (edit for clarity: the flat part) from the playfield.
i kinda like that solution actually!
1 month later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Speaking of that, here is the molex wiring attached to the center drop assembly. The Y-R & W-Brn wires go to the 10 pt switches.
[quoted image]
hmm that is definitely weird, i don't remember if my harness was the same. it doesn't make a lot of sense since you would have to remove the switch if you wanted to service the drop target assembly...?
maybe best cut them out of the molex and tie them back to the harness directly with solder/shrink tubes?
1 week later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Installed the slingshots. I had purchased all new parts, but I ended up using a mix of both. I felt the new 2” plungers were too short, so I used the old ones. The linkage was still good & not too worn. I really didn’t want to try to knock out & reset the pin.
wasn't that covered somewhere? the bleu replacement are 2" but they have others that are 2-1/8" which should be the right length:
https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-18-plunger.html
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:I did adjust & clean them as best I could. They're just pretty old & rusted. It just bugs me that I have practically new parts everywhere on this build, and the drop switches are the only original ones. They seem ok for now though. A least my drops are on molex for an easy swap later if I have to.
yeah it is definitely important to make sure the switch blade touch the target as late as possible and as little as possible, just enough to close as it drops down. Though with nice new fresh spring the targets should drop nicely.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well I tried a small pop bumper cap screw, but the head was still just a bit too large for my liking. When I tested, the ball was slightly nicking it as it rolled by. That makes me nervous on such a fast game. I’d rather put a small nail.
Great job on the guides tho! I’m sure they weren’t easy to get right.
not sure anymore, but aren't those the replacement nails?
https://www.pinballlife.com/34-rounded-head-spiral-nail.html
Quoted from play_pinball:I used some teeny tiny nails I got in a bunch of miscellaneous hardware at a garage sale. They’re absolutely perfect. I don’t have many but PM me your address and I’ll mail you a couple HoakyPoaky
[quoted image]
I usually just screw a post juuuuust enough so it doesn't spin and usually is light enough so it doesn't "dig" into the clear. Never tried the washer technic, might try it out though wouldn't the post spin?
Quoted from mrm_4:I’m just gonna go ahead get me an order of those.....
i split a box with you 
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:And I have another observation. This is the metal rail that goes along the back edge of the playfield.
The siderails I understand. But this one doesn’t extend all the way across, so it has no purpose even when the playfield is pulled & put in the upright position. It doesn’t protect the back edge when sliding the playfield in & out either.
I suppose it adds stability to the playfield to prevent it from warping? IDK. I’m debating even putting it on.
[quoted image]
yep definitely to help against PF getting wrap "horizontally", i put them on mine though sometime having them centered so it doesn't scrap the wood support inside the cabinet is hard!
if you want some of those post, send me the P/N and qty and i can mail some first class
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Here’s the results. I shot a spinner rip with my finger in slow mo. I counted about 75 spins. I think that’s good. Can I get 99? I’d like to. IDK.
I apologize for the video music. YouTube apparently does not like slomo videos & distorted the sound, I had to add something. Haha
75 is definitely a good number and i may something unpopular but sometime a spinner that is TOO good unbalance the game From the video it looks like the top blade of your switch get pushed up quite a bit, on my spinner i gap them so they just touch on the highest point in the rotation so the top blade barely move, aka less resistance when it spins but again, 75 rotation i wouldn't worry too much
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Getting so close I can almost taste it.
I also gave another coat of wax for good measure. Just look at the reflections. It’s like glass.
[quoted image]
are the tab of your kickout coil to the side? hard to tell from the picture but those have to be right not to short on the Apron.
Like this one, with the JX type coil or if you have a standard one just have the tabs sideways
Quoted from play_pinball:Uh yes, turned to the side. Don’t ask how I know.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
haha smokey!
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Double checked the apron coil. The contacts are correct & to the sides.
[quoted image]
it would be good to add short protection with some transparent plastic tubing, i put it on all my coil tabs (after seeing HEP doing it)
Quoted from cottonm4:Oh, you mean a junk drawer
Moderator Daditude I think had some for sale a while back.
same here, i don's use the ones i have, let me know if you want one.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Installed the flippers. Used the gap tool to ensure no binding. Flippers aren’t dragging on the playfield. I like to pretend there’s a line going down the center of the flipper & then align so that it’s parallel with the lane guide. This usually puts the flipper just above the pinholes below the flipper. Get them both to match. Finger tighten & test. Then lock them down. Looks good to me & should be able to trap the ball. [quoted image]
uh? I was always under the impression the gap tool was between the flipper bat and the top of the bushing, on the top side of the PF? To avoid the bat resting on the bushing and/or too close to the PF.
From VID
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/9#post-1625593
1 week later
Quoted from Quicksilver1:Looks great, hopefully you'll be playing issue free soon. I noticed you opted for green Stern "S" decals on the spinner faces instead of the factory red "S" decals. Was that just to keep with the green theming of the game?
QS came with both version from factory, discussed in another thread
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I thought I was treating myself to a clean and easy path getting full flipper kits for my last project. Think again. In my case, either the flipper shafts were a tad too fat or the bushings a tad too narrow. Either way, the result was slightly sticky flippers. Wound up replacing both the bats and the bushings. Fine now, but not the best experience. Par for the course these days with new parts. The quality control and precision just isn’t there.
have had that as well, brand new assemblies properly installed was sometime sticking and/or weaker. had to erptty much replace the whole link assembly and it was fine, urg..
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Which bring me to my next gripe. The PL new flipper bases. The stop is like 1/4 inch too short from the original. So over time will the linkage wear, the parts loosen & move past the stop?
i have had that issue, i think i played with the L bracket that stop the link to make sure it was higher, putting washer between it and the plate maybe? can't quite remember now
11 months later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:No problems yet after a year of play using the washer method. Used new posts, screws up through the t-nuts for a solid foundation. and the #6 washers.
I'll do that for all my future playfield swaps. Best tip I ever read in that HEP restore thread.
+1 washer under hte post is a great idea!
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