QUICKSILVER scratch build: A Detailed Guide

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Earlier I had attempted to use a pop screw to secure the guide to the wood rail. The screw head was too large, so I removed. I need to use a small nail instead.
But the screw hole remained. Took some wood glue & plugged it with a toothpick. I’ll try the nail after it dries.
[quoted image]

May I suggest using #4 x 3/8" stainless steel sheet metal screws. Yeah, I know, they are not original like a nail but they look real good installed.

I use these 1/2" long screws to attach my cabinet rails. I picked up on this idea from one of HEP's threads.

I get these at the hardware store that sells the hybrid head screws that I do not like.

IMG_6327 (resized).JPG

#402 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build/page/3#post-6083973

Quoted from cottonm4:
Where are you getting these nice Phillips head screws?

I purchased all the screws in bulk quantities from Bolt Depot.

#403 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
Vec-tor, no one will know what you are talking about. Some plastic hose from the hardware store works as a replacement.
[quoted image]

No that rubber piece is on my assembly. Perhaps it's hard to see in the photo..

#404 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
Nice job on the spinners.

Quoted from Classic_Stern:
So for spinners you need to do a few items. Definitely make sure the switch as Cotton said is balanced and resting the spinner in a down position and barely not touch. No bends or issues. Tighten up the holding screw before any of this so the tension is tight to the playfield.
But before all of this. Take your spinner bracket and debur the holes where the spinner rests. Make sure they are absolute perfectly smooth on the outside and inside edges. Then take you spinners and sand the edges that float on the bracket. Make sure you high polish that surface to a fine shine. This is the spinner arms on both sides. Then use silicone lubricant on the parts BEFORE you install back on the field. The lubricant with solvents. You don't want to spray on or around the playfield. This stuff removes paint and melts plastics.
Put back together, make sure it's balance and then make sure the switch is perfectly parallel to the field when the spinner is in the resting position.
Thats all I got. I can get 200 plus spins on the left spinner on Quicksilver and Stargazer doing these small attention to detail items. My Galaxy I just sold has a super ripper too.

Is it though? I tried really hard this weekend to get them dialed in. I don't know what else I can do better. Then I went back this morning & started reading some spinner tip posts that I had bookmarked.

This guy claims he gets 200 spins on a rip. That's just unfathomable to me. I don't see anything especially different in his tips from what everyone else suggests. Although I will admit that my spinner arms were left with micro scratches after sanding, and even polishing them afterwards. I suppose this definitely leads to some resistance, but I figure they will smooth eventually with use. But would it almost double my spins if they were polished to a mirror finish? I doubt it. Perhaps he's using a lighter weight spinner? I really have a hard time believing that 200 spin claim.

I would love to know what the goal is for the max spinner rip. I'll have to go thread hunting & see if someone has tackled this question already.

#405 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Here’s the test. I count around 80 spins? Similar to the other spinner. IDK what else I can do to make it better. I’d say 99 spins is the ceiling, and I’m pretty close.

99 spins is not the ceiling. I have slochar's ROM on my Big Game. The inner spinner really gets with it. I know no one will believe this but I will say it anyway. Sometimes I get really good rips on the BG inner spinner. 80s and 90s spin counts. This is for the inner spinner only. Several times I have rolled 102 or 103 spins. And once I got 112 spins and once I got 117 spins. I need to get my cameras set up.

The outer spinner, for some reason, is not as robust. The most I ever got was around 60 or so spins. And then I replaced the heavier Stern spinner with a lighter weight Gottlieb spinner and my spin performance has gone down.

I have a Stern Nugent spinner. It is the light one like the Gottlieb spinner I have. All my other Stern spinners are of the thicker, heavier variety. I'm guessing the extra weight helps adds to the kinetic energy needed to keep a rotating object spinning for longer periods.

#406 2 years ago

MSS

msarac

Pinside member

Mansfield, MA

11y 50,300 145 20

Now don't get me wrong because I love a good spinner rip, but too much isn't always a good thing. Imagine for a minute you WERE able to get 200 spins on your spinners. With that shot lit for 2000pts per, that's 400,000 per rip. At that point why would you shoot ANYTHING else, ever?

I'd say something in the 50 spins/100k per rip keeps the game more balanced, and for me at least, more enjoyable.

#407 2 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

For Big Game and the people that have streamed it or went over what the max rips were, the low was 30 or so to >100. On Meteor which is the best spinner I have (was an NOS one polished and lubed etc as others are saying) I regularly get 80-90 spins on a good rip.

You also have to sand out the mounting bracket which because it's so small, is difficult (I guess small file works.) Or at least debur it.

I have noticed that people in competitions do tend to harp on the one safe shot like a lit spinner. I like playfields that have more than one way to exploit points, and if you do them all, you will win every time.

It is rather boring in competition to see, light spinner, hit spinner, repeat. Snore. Like the safest way to play doctor who is put the ball into the video mode hole, spots a letter or 2 depending on setting, get video mode lit. Get the PF multiplier up to 4x, do video mode and you get 100's of millions of points and you can't drain in a video mode.

Granted, if you "do the thing" that the designer intended I think destroying davros is 1.2 billion at 4x multiplier, but I've never been able to do that, and it's riskier than the video mode grind.

#408 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Well what a PITA this is. With the 4-bank installed, I can’t get at all the t-nuts to place the screws. I could remove the entire bank, put its already perfectly placed.
Option B: move some wires & pops out of the way so I can get at the t-nuts. I managed, but it would have been much easier if the screws were installed before the 4-bank & saved myself the hassle.
[quoted image]

I know it is a tight fit for the wiring under the play field. But you have all kinds of room on the backside of that 4-bank to reroute your wiring and pull it away from the 4-bank and move it closer to the pop bumper. If you still have enough room with your wiring I would suggest moving your wire closer to the pop. It will not make those T-nuts easier to access, but it will make it easier to R & R the 4-bank and will make it easier if you ever need to do any service work in that area.

You can R & R the four bank and replace it perfectly where you have it; The screw holes are not going to move on you and it looks like you have it Molex-ed.

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IMG_6328 (resized).JPG

I have a question. What are those 2 brackets that look like sling shot brackets at the holes for the GI lights? Something is pop riveted to them but I can't figure it out.

559391a3c0e0d2c2e8ec29be72789063403a1361-1 (resized).jpg

#409 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
I know it is a tight fit for the wiring under the play field. But you have all kinds of room on the backside of that 4-bank to reroute your wiring and pull it away from the 4-bank and move it closer to the pop bumper. If you still have enough room with your wiring I would suggest moving your wire closer to the pop. It will not make those T-nuts easier to access, but it will make it easier to R & R the 4-bank and will make it easier if you ever need to do any service work in that area.
You can R & R the four bank and replace it perfectly where you have it; The screw holes are not going to move on you and it looks like you have it Molex-ed.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I have a question. What are those 2 brackets that look like sling shot brackets at the holes for the GI lights? Something is pop riveted to them but I can't figure it out.
[quoted image]

It appears that you have placed GI bulbs in the holes behind your 4-bank, when in fact, those holes are for 2 10pt switches. That's why with the switches installed, its a tight fit.

Personally I have no problem with that. That area could use some light & I'm working on a solution at the moment.

But with the drops down, those GI bulbs you've installed might be hard for a player to look at. Which is why they probably didn't put them there in the first place.

#410 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from slochar:
For Big Game and the people that have streamed it or went over what the max rips were, the low was 30 or so to >100. On Meteor which is the best spinner I have (was an NOS one polished and lubed etc as others are saying) I regularly get 80-90 spins on a good rip.

So from what I'm reading, if you're hitting 80-100 spins, then that's pretty damn good. I could disassemble & debur the mounting bracket arms holes, but I think I'm satisfied for now.

I do have a question about your spinner count code mod..... How does that apply to a game like QS with 2 spinners? It's possible to get both spinner spinning at the same time, so would that cause a problem with your code? Or does it just ignore the 2nd spinner if the first one is still spinning?

I started reading your Galaxy thread... it's like reading a language from another planet. But really facinating. If you manage to get the QS spinner add-on completed, I will definitely test for you.

#411 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

I updated the thread title to better reflect the overall purpose of this thread.

#412 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
It appears that you have placed GI bulbs in the holes behind your 4-bank, when in fact, those holes are for 2 10pt switches. That's why with the switches installed, its a tight fit.
Personally I have no problem with that. That area could use some light & I'm working on a solution at the moment.
But with the drops down, those GI bulbs you've installed might be hard for a player to look at. Which is why they probably didn't put them there in the first place.

Thanks ! I am glad I asked. I did not look at the drawing that close. I see them now. Four 10 point switches all wired on the same circuit. I'm just getting started so I can make corrections easily.

I'm finishing up Star Gazer and 2 of the 3 drop targets have a pair of GI lights behind them. I assumed (bad habit) the same on Quicksilver.

#413 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
You’ll notice at the top nail hole, the playfield artwork does not extend high enough. You can see white. So once the top wood rail gets installed, I’ll have to see how it fits. I plan on using a small nylon washer to move it forward & cover the white area so it’s not so obvious.

I don't have this problem on mine. It sits just at the edge of the green. The space behind is taken up by the rail. I am using the original guide but I had to move and redrill 4 of Mirco's locating holes to get a good fit.

#414 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from msarac:
Now don't get me wrong because I love a good spinner rip, but too much isn't always a good thing. Imagine for a minute you WERE able to get 200 spins on your spinners. With that shot lit for 2000pts per, that's 400,000 per rip. At that point why would you shoot ANYTHING else, ever?
I'd say something in the 50 spins/100k per rip keeps the game more balanced, and for me at least, more enjoyable.

Well I was thinking about this as it applies to QS. Let's be conservative and assume a big rip result: Lit spinner @ 100 spins = 200K points

The main strategy is spell Q-U-I-C-K-S-I-L-V-E-R, max your bonus to 75K & increase the bonus multipler to 5x. In the process of doing this, it is extremely likley you also maxed the 4-bank value to 20K per drop target.

If you're lucky enough to do all that on a single ball, what else is there to do but shats the inlanes, light the spinners & rip them for more points. Becuase what else can you this point?......

1) Sweep the 4-bank for 80K
2) Rip a spinner for 100K
3) Rip a lit spinner for 200K

I'd say that's pretty balanced. And if you have the skills to repeatedly rip lit spinners, even in competitive play, then I see nothing wrong with it. More power to you. Shatzing & ripping is a skill onto itself. You should be rewarded for it.

But you're definitely correct. 200 spin rips might feel good for the player, but it would certainly lead to unbalanced scoring exploits. So dialing in those spinners for 100 spin rips is the gold standard IMO.

There I just talked myself through it. I should write a paper on this. haha

#415 2 years ago

DBS

Skidave

Pinside member

6y 63,550 1,288 9

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
I should write a paper on this. haha

I would say your documented work so far is good for a 300 level course. Not sure about the grade I would give. I need to come play it and assess the grade myself

#416 2 years ago

???

vec-tor

Pinside+ Addict

Unknown

7y 91,150 4,608 83

Quoted from cottonm4:
the hybrid head screws that I do not like.

Ah! a Dr.Seuss!

#417 2 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
do have a question about your spinner count code mod..... How does that apply to a game like QS with 2 spinners? It's possible to get both spinner spinning at the same time, so would that cause a problem with your code?

It counts all the spins even if both are going at once. Probably won't happen much on quicksilver if think. Stargazer with 3 might need to rethink how it goes.

It would be possible to count on the credit display as well, if that's not too confusing for the left spinner and the ball in play for the right spinner. There's now room in the code for this I got about eighty bytes free.

Posted the code look for my other threads can't post link on my tablet.

#418 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from slochar:
It counts all the spins even if both are going at once. Probably won't happen much on quicksilver if think. Stargazer with 3 might need to rethink how it goes.
It would be possible to count on the credit display as well, if that's not too confusing for the left spinner and the ball in play for the right spinner. There's now room in the code for this I got about eighty bytes free.
Posted the code look for my other threads can't post link on my tablet.

Separate LT & RT spinner counts on the separate credit & Ball in play displays would be a pretty cool solution on Quicksilver. I’d try that if it’s possible. It would be awesome to compare the spinners!

Plus I’ve seen QS videos where both spinners are spinning at once. It’s a fast game where that situation would happen more than you’d think.

Is it possible to save the high spinner score? Like the HSTD? I suppose that would require more bytes

#419 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Double checked the apron coil. The contacts are correct & to the sides.

9B877315-C5CD-4EFA-AAF7-F76CD1FC361A (resized).jpeg

#420 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Mugsy’s keen eyes spotted that my side metal rails were attached wrong. The edge of the rail goes on the inside, not on the outside edge of the playfield. Or maybe it was @cottonm4. In any case, thanks buddy!

D62F90E6-CA31-4804-9D38-34800618E60E (resized).jpeg

A0921C07-C269-444E-B80C-0CA73621E7B5 (resized).jpeg

44E13A51-EA46-4448-B686-D3F866919E35 (resized).jpeg

#421 2 years ago

PNP

MeesterPieter

Pinside member

's-hertogenbosch

11y 46,650 265 5 14

Enjoyed your topic, nice work!

#422 2 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Separate LT & RT spinner counts on the separate credit & Ball in play displays would be a pretty cool solution on Quicksilver. I’d try that if it’s possible.

I just added that and will post when that's available. A little more difficult getting that one going as the credit display can show at any time if you win a credit so had to allow not only for that but for the fact that the credit display spans 2 bytes instead of one like the ball in play does. Working in the simulation.

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Is it possible to save the high spinner score?

Probably, getting a lot of scope creep here though. That's a change that becomes much more invasive - not so simple as comparing a high spin to the saved one, you also have to get a mechanism in there to be able to clear it, and something will have to crunch out (some other audit). It's only one byte, and stern solved this themselves when they needed to by truncating some of the other audits (not the coin counts, though.... stuff like replays/specials won, that kind of stuff)

EDIT: Seems like there might be an open audit to store the high spins to date, which will allow you to store the high spins. (and clear them). I don't know if you could make showing left and right spinners separately something that would 'make sense' though. It would have to show on another players' display, so it's not impossible. You would only be able to reset them as a pair though and in audits it would show 'run together' 1234 where 12 is left and 34 is right, but that's not a big deal.

#423 2 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

Ask and you shall receive....
https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm/QUICK-V02.zip?attredirects=0&d=1

The rom is *FULL*. As in no bytes currently free, but I'm working on that. Left/right spins show on credit/ball in play and save high spins for each, shows as player 4 when hstd shown. Clear with audit 15 in adjustments. You probably have to clear it initially.

#424 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
So this is a work in progress.....the spinners. I started with the LT one.
First I enlarged the mounting holes of the bracket. Then I tried to bend it to 90 degrees. I set it on a block of wood to make sure it stood flat.
I also made a spinner station for the workbench. Much easier to do fine adjustments & see if it’s balanced.
These are new spinners from Pinball resource. I sanded off all the paint from the arms, I want metal on metal. I used my digital calipers to find dead center on the spinner, then adjusted the arms so the ends were dead center. Then I made sure the arms were centered front to back.
I added the bike chain lube to the arms with a q-tip. Just a few drops. I was able to get it to spin for about 6-7 seconds with my finger.
Then I added the rod & washers & mounted. This is the part I’m not sure about. I adjusted the switch contacts to get them very close. Then I marked with a sharpie on the rod where I wanted to bend the wire, getting tension...but not too much.
By dumb luck, I mounted the S sticker correctly, with the pointy end at the bottom. At least I think that’s right.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I notice in your build that you are using copious amounts of those shallow headed, straight slot screws.

Could you tell us why you went with those style screws, please?

I hate those little bastards. The head is too shallow to get a good grip with a socket; the straight slot is too shallow to get a good bite with a screwdriver, and they are not magnetic enough to stay in the socket.

You look like you like them. I would like to know why you (and Stern) like them so well.

Thanks

#425 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from slochar:
Ask and you shall receive....
https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm/QUICK-V02.zip?attredirects=0&d=1
The rom is *FULL*. As in no bytes currently free, but I'm working on that. Left/right spins show on credit/ball in play and save high spins for each, shows as player 4 when hstd shown. Clear with audit 15 in adjustments. You probably have to clear it initially.

Wow that is awesome. I wasn't expecting you to do this so fast. Do you have a thread that explains the procedure for adding this code to the webly board? I assume it has to be burned to an eprom, then installed in the additional slot on the board? I looked at the weebly site, but there wasn't much there to explain it.

I can't really follow what you're saying when it comes to explaining what you're doing, but LT/RT spinner tracking & high spins to date recording sounds awesome. If you assumed that the code is going to be used only at home in free play mode, does that give you more space to do what you need to do?

#426 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
I notice in your build that you are using copious amounts of those shallow headed, straight slot screws.
Could you tell us why you went with those style screws, please?
I hate those little bastards. The head is too shallow to get a good grip with a socket; the straight slot is too shallow to get a good bite with a screwdriver, and they are not magnetic enough to stay in the socket.
You look like you like them. I would like to know why you (and Stern) like them so well.
Thanks

You mean the little hex screws? I just like using my nut drivers. I find it's easier to tighten exactly where I want it, instead of using a screwdriver. You are correct that they don't really magnetize though. Honestly I hadn't put much thought into the types of screws I'm using.

#427 2 years ago

MSS

msarac

Pinside member

Mansfield, MA

11y 50,300 145 20

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
I assume it has to be burned to an eprom, then installed in the additional slot on the board?

Yup. Write the .512 file from Slochar's zip to a W27C512 eprom (that's what I used - others may work as well)
Install into the U1 socket.
Pull the 'Enable U2' jumper that is located right above U2. Better yet just leave it installed on one of the pins so you don't misplace it.
Boot up, go to audit 15, press the Clear Audit button on the MPU.
Power off and on, you'll see the version (02) in the Match display.
Play a game and lose balls while watching the spinner counter.

#428 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from msarac:
Yup. Write the .512 file from Slochar's zip to a W27C512 eprom (that's what I used - others may work as well)
Install into the U1 socket.
Pull the 'Enable U2' jumper that is located right above U2. Better yet just leave it installed on one of the pins so you don't misplace it.
Boot up, go to audit 15, press the Clear Audit button on the MPU.
Power off and on, you'll see the version (02) in the Match display.
Play a game and lose balls while watching the spinner counter.

Where did you go to learn that procedure? I just would like to learn more about it. Thanks for posting

#429 2 years ago

CAE

play_pinball

Pinside+ Frequent

6y 131K 2,077 38 34 1

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Double checked the apron coil. The contacts are correct & to the sides.
[quoted image]

Haha that’s one way to do it! Conversely the coil mounts on its side, with the lugs facing the front of the apron.

#430 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/combo.09.02.20.pdf

Quoted from play_pinball:
Haha that’s one way to do it! Conversely the coil mounts on its side, with the lugs facing the front of the apron.

That is the safest way to mount it. Both lugs are protected by being located in the middle and away from the edge.

The lug facing the edge of the play field is always at risk. Just from being in the way.

And it looks like it now is in position to short against the side of the apron, instead of the top.

#431 2 years ago

MSS

msarac

Pinside member

Mansfield, MA

11y 50,300 145 20

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Where did you go to learn that procedure? I just would like to learn more about it. Thanks for posting

Most of that came from Slochar's post about his revised Meteor rom, and the readme.txt from his QS spin counter rom. The Weebly stuff is right off their MPU setup sheet here:

#432 2 years ago

GER

hisokajp

Pinside+ Frequent

Redmond, WA

9y 81,800 1,891 46 11

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Double checked the apron coil. The contacts are correct & to the sides.
[quoted image]

it would be good to add short protection with some transparent plastic tubing, i put it on all my coil tabs (after seeing HEP doing it)

#433 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

I just stumbled onto your build thread 2-3 days ago ( not sure how I missed it). So I have to go back and do a lot of reading.

I noticed the Meteor cab you used has a real wood floor installed. I assume it is factory. My Seawitch cab has a wood floor. All my other Sterns use the hardboard material that is always sagging and needs replaced. Even my Meteor cab has the saggy hardboard/fiberboard for a floor. It just seems that whatever Stern could buy for the cheapest is what got used.

Anyway, since I have not had chance to read all of your thread, I have a question. You really have all of your sheet metal shined and sparkling. How did you do all of that?

#434 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from hisokajp:
it would be good to add short protection with some transparent plastic tubing, i put it on all my coil tabs (after seeing HEP doing it)

I will reassess that coil after I paint & install the apron. Pretty sure I will add the tubing for protection though.

#435 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
I just stumbled onto your build thread 2-3 days ago ( not sure how I missed it). So I have to go back and do a lot of reading.
I noticed the Meteor cab you used has a real wood floor installed. I assume it is factory. My Seawitch cab has a wood floor. All my other Sterns use the hardboard material that is always sagging and needs replaced. Even my Meteor cab has the saggy hardboard/fiberboard for a floor. It just seems that whatever Stern could buy for the cheapest is what got used.
Anyway, since I have not had chance to read all of your thread, I have a question. You really have all of your sheet metal shined and sparkling. How did you do all of that?

You notice the little things for sure. Yes the floor of my cabinet is plywood, not cheap pressed hardboard. It was like that when I got it.

Do you mean the flashing in my backbox or all my metal parts in general? In either case it is the same. Really rusted parts go in the tumbler first for 24 hrs, but then all parts get soaked in evaporust for 24 hrs. Tiny parts & screws go in the ultrasonic filled with evaporust for 10 minutes. While they are getting rinsed, I may use #0 & #00 fine steelwool to shine them up & try to remove stain areas or scratches. Final step is Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. That is my go-to & I swear by it. Put on a rag & rub by hand. I have also used a buffing wheel on my drill for larger parts, but usually doing by hand is enough. Then wipe away with a clean rag. Always comes out looking great, but certainly time consuming.

#436 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from msarac:
Most of that came from Slochar's post about his revised Meteor rom, and the readme.txt from his QS spin counter rom. The Weebly stuff is right off their MPU setup sheet here:
https://nvram.weebly.com/uploads/5/4/2/5/54255141/combo.09.02.20.pdf

I'll have to go read through his meteor thread & the readme file. Thanks

#437 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Do you mean the flashing in my backbox or all my metal parts in general?

All of your metal parts. Drop target assemblies. Lockdown bar receiver. etc.

#438 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
All of your metal parts. Drop target assemblies. Lockdown bar receiver. etc.

Yeah all that stuff is disassembled & cleaned as I described above, depending on the part.

#439 2 years ago

GER

hisokajp

Pinside+ Frequent

Redmond, WA

9y 81,800 1,891 46 11

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Yeah all that stuff is disassembled & cleaned as I described above, depending on the part.

lots of elbow grease! I never have enough patience for that :S

#440 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

So I read in another thread that some people had issues with the ball bouncing back in the shooting lane when launched & getting stuck.

So I took the advice & added 2 thin nylon washers under the top prong of the trough rail. With it raised lightly, the idea is that the ball won’t get stuck if it kicks back. Hard to test on the rotisserie, but it’s easily reversible later if there’s an issue.

I think this photo was with 3 washers, but I thought it was too high. I went with 2

E35271D1-3380-4EE2-BE3E-EECFCA1559B3 (resized).jpeg

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#441 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Replacement apron arrived. So long Dracula... prime, paint, seal. Then add the decal. Should get it done this weekend.

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#442 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
So I read in another thread that some people had issues with the ball bouncing back in the shooting lane when launched & getting stuck.
So I took the advice & added 2 thin nylon washers under the top prong of the trough rail. With it raised lightly, the idea is that the ball won’t get stuck if it kicks back. Hard to test on the rotisserie, but it’s easily reversible later if there’s an issue.
I think this photo was with 3 washers, but I thought it was too high. I went with 2
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interested to see how this works.

#443 2 years ago

RGJ

bigguybbr

Pinside+ Frequent

3y 100K 3,248 6 17

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Mugsy’s keen eyes spotted that my side metal rails were attached wrong. The edge of the rail goes on the inside, not on the outside edge of the playfield. Or maybe it was cottonm4. In any case, thanks buddy!

I've never seen rails like that. Did you buy them someplace or make them yourself? I'm waiting on my Meteor CPR playfield, and would love to have something to stop the bottom from getting chewed up.

#444 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from bigguybbr:
I've never seen rails like that. Did you buy them someplace or make them yourself? I'm waiting on my Meteor CPR playfield, and would love to have something to stop the bottom from getting chewed up.

Factory installed on the Meteor I used for the conversion. The rails rest on the internal cabinet brackets. I'm not sure what titles they installed them on exactly, or if they were only used on certain runs of some games. The Stern club thread might know.

#445 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

https://mantispinball.com/product-category/star-gazer/

Quoted from bigguybbr:
I've never seen rails like that. Did you buy them someplace or make them yourself? I'm waiting on my Meteor CPR playfield, and would love to have something to stop the bottom from getting chewed up.

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Factory installed on the Meteor I used for the conversion. The rails rest on the internal cabinet brackets. I'm not sure what titles they installed them on exactly, or if they were only used on certain runs of some games. The Stern club thread might know.

You can buy them from Mantis. Some of my Sterns have them, some don't. Other than Stern managing costs, I do not know why are not all of the Stern pins.

Kerry made them up for the Star Gazer crowd. Both sides pieces are the same. There is no left or right. One size fits all, both standard size and wide body. The cross piece rail is standard size, though. But it really not needed.

He makes some other cool items, too.

https://mantispinball.com/product-category/stern/

#446 2 years ago

RGJ

bigguybbr

Pinside+ Frequent

3y 100K 3,248 6 17

Quoted from cottonm4:
You can buy them from Mantis. Some of my Sterns have them, some don't. Other than Stern managing costs, I do not know why are not all of the Stern pins.
Kerry made them up for the Star Gazer crowd. Both sides pieces are the same. There is no left or right. One size fits all, both standard size and wide body. The cross piece rail is standard size, though. But it really not needed.
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/star-gazer/
He makes some other cool items, too.
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/stern/

That's awesome, thank you! He even makes a brand new lock down bar receiver which I have been looking for.

#447 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from bigguybbr:
That's awesome, thank you! He even makes a brand new lock down bar receiver which I have been looking for.

Do realize there are 2 different styles of Stern Lockdown bars? There is the earlier ball and socket type and the later slotted type. I think Mantis makes the slotted type.

Mantis makes good parts. Very high quality.

#448 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky

Quoted from cottonm4:
Very high quality.

Yes he does make some good hard to find replacement parts.

Too bad he doesn't make old stern coin boxes. I still haven't found a solution for my missing box. Not a big priority, but I'd like to have something in there to place odd game related items.

#449 2 years ago

CAD

cottonm4

Pinside+ Addict

OP
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:
Yes he does make some good hard to find replacement parts.
Too bad he doesn't make old stern coin boxes. I still haven't found a solution for my missing box. Not a big priority, but I'd like to have something in there to place odd game related items.

Oh, you mean a junk drawer

Moderator Daditude I think had some for sale a while back.

#450 2 years ago

HKY

HoakyPoaky