(Topic ID: 265203)

QUICKSILVER scratch build: A Detailed Guide


By HoakyPoaky

1 year ago

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  • 439 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by hisokajp
  • Topic is favorited by 47 Pinsiders

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There are 439 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 9.
#301 11 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So just a single washer? With the single it looks like the same height & no effect. With 2 washers, the post is raised the height of a single washer.
Is that the idea? So that the edges won’t bite into the clear & don’t touch the playfield at all? I’ll have to think about this.
Single washer
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Double washer
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Yes, now that you bring this up it was 2 washers. You could start with two and see if you're ok with the very slight gap where the plastic is next to the playfield.

#302 11 days ago

I used some teeny tiny nails I got in a bunch of miscellaneous hardware at a garage sale. They’re absolutely perfect. I don’t have many but PM me your address and I’ll mail you a couple HoakyPoaky

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#303 11 days ago

Better pic of the finished bottom, aside from the though switch at needs to be installed.

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#304 11 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

When I tested, the ball was slightly nicking it as it rolled by.

I Haven’t had any issue with this configuration, but each set-up is different.

You could use a spiral nail for the side rails, and cut its length down. Then grind the pointed tip back on it with a bench grinder or dremel. You’d probably need to increase the diameter in the ball guide for this option. But it would give a very nice finished look.

#305 11 days ago

The excitement is building -- is there anything to stop you from plugging this in to play and test out -- in the new few weeks?
-mof

#306 11 days ago
Quoted from mof:

The excitement is building -- is there anything to stop you from plugging this in to play and test out -- in the new few weeks?
-mof

Haha. Time always stops me. But I am trying to get done quickly. I have a ton of spring yardwork to do.

#307 11 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Well I tried a small pop bumper cap screw, but the head was still just a bit too large for my liking. When I tested, the ball was slightly nicking it as it rolled by. That makes me nervous on such a fast game. I’d rather put a small nail.
Great job on the guides tho! I’m sure they weren’t easy to get right.

not sure anymore, but aren't those the replacement nails?
https://www.pinballlife.com/34-rounded-head-spiral-nail.html

#308 11 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I used some teeny tiny nails I got in a bunch of miscellaneous hardware at a garage sale. They’re absolutely perfect. I don’t have many but PM me your address and I’ll mail you a couple HoakyPoaky
[quoted image]

I usually just screw a post juuuuust enough so it doesn't spin and usually is light enough so it doesn't "dig" into the clear. Never tried the washer technic, might try it out though wouldn't the post spin?

#309 10 days ago

I'm going to try the washer method when I install the rest of the posts. I think it's a valid idea. Here's my reasoning:

You want the posts to be secure, especially on a fast game like Quicksilver. This is why I countersunk my t-nuts, to get as many post threads as possible into the T-nut to make them solid. Some posts will take more of a bashing than others, especially the bottom post at the 4-bank.

My playfield has multiple Kruzman coats of clear. I think he put 8-10 coats on there. It cured for nearly a year. It's like glass & probably thicker than the standard Mirco coat. When I screwed a couple test posts into it snugly, the edge left a ring mark. Over time, the thick clear may start to ripple. More hits may result in the bubble cracking & chipping away. I saw this process happening on my TNA years ago. That's another similar fast game with a thick clearcoat.

So I'll add washers to the posts, so that the edge doesn't dig into the clear, but also ensure that the post is solid. The washer may sink a bit into the clear, but it will be under the post & not visible to the player. In theory, I should not see ripple effect around the posts after repeated plays & post bashings.

Perhaps I am overthinking it, but when I heard several people say they have used the washer method with good results, then I'm more inclined to try it.

#310 10 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

not sure anymore, but aren't those the replacement nails?
https://www.pinballlife.com/34-rounded-head-spiral-nail.html

They need to be ~1/4" long, really really small

amazon.com link »

(The picture show them as ring shank, but they apparently arrived smooth. Crazy small.)

#311 10 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

They need to be ~1/4" long, really really small
amazon.com link »

I’m just gonna go ahead get me an order of those.....

#312 10 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’m just gonna go ahead get me an order of those.....

i split a box with you

#313 10 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

They need to be ~1/4" long, really really small
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the link Vid. I would not have found those.

And thanks for reading my thread. I’ve used many of your helpful tips along the way!

#314 8 days ago

Back to installing the wire guides...

This is why you pre-drill & doublecheck before you start hammering. Started drilling the wire guide near the top rollover. I was getting resistance in the wood where there should be none. Flipped the playfield over & realized the new placement of the rollover switch was directly in line with the guide hole. What dumb luck.

So an easy repositioning of the switch & we are good to go. You can see through the playfield where the holes align. I couldn’t have done that if I was trying.

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#315 8 days ago

Since I have to reposition the trough switch, I had to lengthen the wires& reposition. Fugly but functional. Lesson learned for the next time I install my flipper assemblies.

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#316 8 days ago

Tested the “Two-#6-washers-under-the-post” method.

Hard to see, but I was careful not to overtighten & strip the screw. The post is firm & solid. The post itself does not turn or twist by hand once secured. There is a fingernails width under the post between the edge & the playfield.

I like it. I’m going with it. We’ll see how it looks after a couple hundred plays.

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#317 8 days ago

Working on the ball guides by the shooter lane. The guide with the straighter end goes here to line up with the shooter lane.

Put your posts in first though. This one was a tight fit. I had to sand the post down to get it to fit.

Dremel the opening & then screw in your metal posts with a long 1/4 socket wrench. Do them first, then the red posts, then tap in your guide.

Note the shorter 1” plastic post that will be under the plastics. Use a #6 1/2 inch Pan screw to secure. I did not add washers to this one. I want it as low as possible so the screw doesn’t rub the art off the plastic.

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#318 8 days ago

Left orbit guide installed. Note the short post with the Pan screw.

While screwing in these posts I realized that I didn’t order enough of the 2 inch t-but post screws. I’m pretty pissed. I’m very reluctant to spend $15 on shipping 10 screws from Pinball life. I hate the length of these posts anyway. Not long enough at all.

So I might run to Home Depot & take cottonm4 suggestion by cutting my own length screws. More work...but at least I’ll know they are 1000% rock solid forever.

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#319 8 days ago

looking really nice

#320 8 days ago

Saucer area posts installed. I’m waiting to do the spinners last.

I also didn’t order enough of the short posts, but no worries. Just clean some of the old ones from the Meteor & soldier on.

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#321 8 days ago

Note: This post protecting the left spinner rod can be secured with a #6-32 1-3/4 inch Pan screw. Threads go all the way through the t-nut. Rock solid to pounding. That’s awesome.

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#322 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

And thanks for reading my thread. I’ve used many of your helpful tips along the way!

You have done a great job documenting this build.

Pointing out all the miss-drilled holes from the factory will save the next guy many hours!

#323 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I might run to Home Depot & take cottonm4 suggestion by cutting my own length screws.

If you have one of those stripper/crimper tools, it will cleanly cut those screws without messing up the threads, instantly .

I always see guys cutting screws with a hacksaw, then filing the ends; when I can see they have a screw cutter/stripper right in their box

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#324 8 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you have one of those stripper/crimper tools, it will cleanly cut those screws without messing up the threads, instantly .
I always see guys cutting screws with a hacksaw, then filing the ends; when I can see they have a screw cutter/stripper right in their box[quoted image]

Yes I tested with my crimper. Easy clean cut, I just have to get to the store for the screws.

#325 8 days ago

RT & LT return guides installed.

And with that, my most dreaded task is complete. It’s all gravy from here on.

EDIT: That 3rd post at the slings has the wrong screw pictured here. See post #350

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#326 8 days ago

3-bank drop area posts installed.

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#327 8 days ago

The RT spinner gets a metal post. Be sure to really grind away the clear from the edge of this hole. The post threads are wide & thick. Good chance to lift clear if you just squeeze it in there.

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#328 8 days ago

SO EXCITING!

#329 8 days ago

I like how the playfield art has the indicators for the rubber size - was this done on the original game or this reproduction playfield

#330 8 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

I like how the playfield art has the indicators for the rubber size - was this done on the original game or this reproduction playfield

Stern put it on the playfield. Makes things so much easier. My Meteor was the same way.

#331 8 days ago

Time to install the gates. Apparently there are all different sizes & styles. I sourced mine from Marco. Buffed them up real nice. However the mounting bracket is muck larger than the originals. The mounting holes in the playfield will need to be drilled.

Tape the gate in place. Verify the plastic has clearance & it’s in the right position. Use a ball to check it’s going to touch the tip of the bracket.

Mark & drill your holes. Use #8 1/2 inch screws to secure. You want the bracket to be solid. Looks good to me.

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#332 8 days ago

The RT bracket by the shooter lane is a different story. It’s mounting plate is too long & there is not enough space when the back rail is placed.

Off to the workbench. Mark your cutting line & saw away enough metal for clearance. Use a file to clean up the sharp edges.

Now it fits perfectly.

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#333 8 days ago

Cleaned & installed the apron mounting posts.

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#334 8 days ago

Not too bad for a days work! I still have to install the rollover posts & decide if I’m going to redo the t-nut post screws.

Then it’s onto the spinners this weekend.

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#335 8 days ago

And I have another observation. This is the metal rail that goes along the back edge of the playfield.

The siderails I understand. But this one doesn’t extend all the way across, so it has no purpose even when the playfield is pulled & put in the upright position. It doesn’t protect the back edge when sliding the playfield in & out either.

I suppose it adds stability to the playfield to prevent it from warping? IDK. I’m debating even putting it on.

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#336 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Back to installing the wire guides...
This is why you pre-drill & doublecheck before you start hammering. Started drilling the wire guide near the top rollover. I was getting resistance in the wood where there should be none. Flipped the playfield over & realized the new placement of the rollover switch was directly in line with the guide hole. What dumb luck.
So an easy repositioning of the switch & we are good to go. You can see through the playfield where the holes align. I couldn’t have done that if I was trying

I damn near burnt a playfield to the ground with a similar mishap. One of the screws for a ball guide just happened to barely touch the end of the leg of a gi braid staple. When I powered on the game, it energized the rail. Smoke started coming out from under the playfield. I shut the power off, flipped up the playfield and smothered the smoldering spot. Saved it! Just like you said, I couldn’t have done that if I tried!

#337 8 days ago

Wow that’s insane. That’s what I was thinking after discovering my error. I’m going to seriously look over every square inch before powering it on. So many things you can miss when building from scratch that can go wrong.

#338 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

And I have another observation. This is the metal rail that goes along the back edge of the playfield.
The siderails I understand. But this one doesn’t extend all the way across, so it has no purpose even when the playfield is pulled & put in the upright position. It doesn’t protect the back edge when sliding the playfield in & out either.
I suppose it adds stability to the playfield to prevent it from warping? IDK. I’m debating even putting it on.
[quoted image]

yep definitely to help against PF getting wrap "horizontally", i put them on mine though sometime having them centered so it doesn't scrap the wood support inside the cabinet is hard!

if you want some of those post, send me the P/N and qty and i can mail some first class

#339 8 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Working on the ball guides by the shooter lane. The guide with the straighter end goes here to line up with the shooter lane.
Put your posts in first though. This one was a tight fit. I had to sand the post down to get it to fit.
Dremel the opening & then screw in your metal posts with a long 1/4 socket wrench. Do them first, then the red posts, then tap in your guide.
Note the shorter 1” plastic post that will be under the plastics. Use a #6 1/2 inch Pan screw to secure. I did not add washers to this one. I want it as low as possible so the screw doesn’t rub the art off the plastic.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So looking at this and you should be using spacers instead of star posts in those real tight squeeze areas behind the ball guides and such:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0052-00

#340 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

So looking at this and you should be using spacers instead of star posts in those real tight squeeze areas behind the ball guides and such:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0052-00

Those posts are about an 1/8th" shorter than the tall star posts from PBR (1-3/16"), so the plastics weren't sitting right for me. I went into Fusion360 and whipped up some longer ones, then printed in yellow. Not exactly original, but then again nothing is on this build! PM me your address Hoaky and I'll send you some some if you'd like.

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#341 7 days ago

If you've got a file to share on those, I'd like to ask a buddy to print some up for a couple Classic Stern projects I've got going on too msarac

#342 7 days ago

I got those mini nails today that were mentioned earlier....

They’re definitely small

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#343 7 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I got those mini nails today that were mentioned earlier....
They’re definitely small
[quoted image]

Nails should be double or single fluted.

#344 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Nails should be double or single fluted.

Where were you on post #310?

#345 7 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I got those mini nails today that were mentioned earlier....
They’re definitely small
[quoted image]

Wow, those are small!

The Amazon pics show the shanks with rings on em, those look smooth

#346 7 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Wow, those are small!
The Amazon pics show the shanks with rings on em, those look smooth

Yeah they probably sent the wrong ones with my luck

#347 7 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yeah they probably sent the wrong ones with my luck

Well I ordered a bag as well. Should arrive tomorrow. I’ll double check

#348 6 days ago

After a frustrating hunt yesterday, I managed to source the 2 & 3 inch screws for the posts. What a PITA though.

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#349 5 days ago

Yes the 4x0.23 nails from Amazon are definitely too small. Seen on the left.

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#350 5 days ago

Started swapping & cutting the post screws. Took a #6-32 x 3 inch zinc screw, put everything into place, measured the exposed screw area, & disassembled. The exposed area length is what you cut away.

So these crimpers are awful at crimping but GREAT for cutting screws. Cut off 3/4 inch. File the end threads if you need too, but I was getting pretty clean cuts.

Put it all back into place. PETG clear washers under the lock nut. Now this isn’t how I usually do this, but apparently after doing some research, I was doing it wrong. The washer is tightly in place for protection, the post is solid from tip through the t-nut, with still fingernail width of space between edge of post & the playfield. Screw on the acorn cap & it’s good to go.

Also note that I had the wrong screw type at the third sling post. It needs a 1-1/2 inch Pan screw instead.

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