Tried to document but here is the final results from today....

Rollover switch area

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RT standups & spinner

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RT Lower standup & RT 10pt switch

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RT lanes

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LT lanes

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LT spinner & saucer area

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LT stand up targets

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Upper playfield rollovers

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I just have the slings, flippers & drops to install. Then the bottom should be complete.

I mentioned before that I prefer using Gottlieb parts for the spinner switches. But these switches only come with 2 lugs. So I had to disassemble some old switches & harvest for LUG C. I just added to the Gottlieb switches so I could solder on the required diode.

Before & after

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This is how I wired my standup targets

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Now this probably was not needed, and it doesn’t state that capacitors are required on the 10pt standup switches, but I added them anyway. If the stand up switches need caps, then I’m not sure why these switches don’t.

If they cause an issue I can always clip them later.

These 10pt switches behind the center drops still need to be wired. They are part of the molex connector, but I’m not sure why. It would have made more sense if they were part of the main harness.
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Speaking of that, here is the molex wiring attached to the center drop assembly. The Y-R & W-Brn wires go to the 10 pt switches.

ATTENTION: This wiring is wrong. See post #267

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Yeah I reached out to him for clarification, and for some reason he put them on the molex. This would be fine if the switches were screwed into the drop mech assembly itself, but the holes on my assembly & the playfield don’t line up right. It’s not a big deal tho.

Slingshot switches wired in parallel. Determined only one diode required, which is why the other switch only has 2 lugs. The QS schematic does not say a capacitor is required, but the old Meteor switches had one, so I added one.

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Installed the 3-Drop bank today.

Obviously the pre-drilled PF holes are off for correct positioning. Using the popsicle stick method mentioned in the other thread, I did that to get the drops positioned where I wanted....as close to the front edge as possible without interfering with their operation. If they are not all the way forward, there won’t be enough space behind them to bounce back & fall. You definitely do not want to hinder your ability to sweep 4 drops in one shot on this game.

Another suggestion was to take a Dremel & enlarge the mounting holes in the assembly slightly, so that it can be slid forward & adjusted into the perfect position. I forgot to take a final photo of the dremeled holes, but you can see how I lengthened one of them in the first photo.

Once positioned on the playfield, I marked the new holes & drilled. Removed the popsicle sticks & then screwed into place. Slid it forward slightly before tightening down. Tested the movement. Looks good to me.

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The only thing that needs to be done is raise the drops so they are level with the playfield. They just need to be raised slightly. I usually cut metal strips & secure under the drops.

Installed the slingshots. I had purchased all new parts, but I ended up using a mix of both. I felt the new 2” plungers were too short, so I used the old ones. The linkage was still good & not too worn. I really didn’t want to try to knock out & reset the pin.

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To make sure the switches were positioned right, I installed 2 posts & installed the sling rubber. When I had them placed correctly I drilled & screwed them in.

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Next I added the arm. I centered it & made sure it would not strike the playfield when activated. Then I set the coil bracket to allow the plunger to move freely.

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Ha well I could have used those if I had found them. But if place another parts order my head will explode. I’ll roll with what I have for now.

So msarac pointed out that my wiring looked incorrect on my 4-bank, and sure enough it was. I wired it exactly like the donor game & forgot to double-check the schematic. It was totally wrong....

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So I replaced the diodes & rewired everything correctly....

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Then I secured the harness to the drops to give clearance for the 10pt switches. It’s a tight fit for everything once installed.

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Solder the wiring for the LT & RT sling switches/coils

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So time to install the all important 4 bank...

I followed the same process as installing the 3 bank. I enlarged the mounting holes in the assembly to allow a slight adjustment. Marked & drilled the mounting holes. Mounted with #8 1/2 inch screws. Adjusted & set in place. Plenty of space behind the drops. Only one thing left to do....

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Sweep the drops!

Well they operate well, but not as flawless as the 3-bank. The issue lies with the switches. This 4-bank has switches that are similar but slightly different from the the 3-bank. If the targets are tapped with a light hit, there's a chance they may not fall all the way. They get hung up on the "bent tab" of the switch. I don't see this problem at all with the 3-bank. Plus the old contacts are a bit worn, but they have been cleaned. I'll have to see how it works during a game.

I wish I could have sourced replacement switches for the 4-bank, but I couldn't find the correct match.

I did adjust & clean them as best I could. They're just pretty old & rusted. It just bugs me that I have practically new parts everywhere on this build, and the drop switches are the only original ones. They seem ok for now though. A least my drops are on molex for an easy swap later if I have to.

I thought I was going to get the flippers wired today, but I had a few more questions that needed clarifying.

Took all the stainless steel metal guides from djblouw & cleaned them up. There were a few scratches, so I used fine stainless steel & tried to get them out as best I could. Then buffed with mother’s mag & the drill.

I also cut some 1 inch metal flashing strips. I place these in the drop assemblies under the drop targets to raise them slightly so the tops are level with the playfield. 2 should do the trick. I hammer them flat, double side tape them together & then install.

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So it was time to start tackling the upper playfield job I’ve been dreading forever.... the installation of the wire guides.

I thought I would start in a fairly hidden spot first, behind the 4 bank. I’ve never done this before & I was concerned I’d crack the clearcoat, or even worse, lose control of my dremmel. Here’s what I did...

1) My playfield was recleared by Kruzman. So these holes needed to be prepped first. The wire was 3/32 thickness, but the drilled holes were only 5/64. So they would need to be enlarged before hammering.

2) I took the 5/64 bit in my drill & deepened the hole. I took my point dremel bit again, then ran it VERY slowly at 1 speed so it wouldn’t bind up. I carefully inserted in the hole, grinding away the clear at the edge of the hole, making it a bit wider.

3) The hole is still too small, so now I switched to the 3/32 bit, and then made it bigger. Be sure to drill deep enough to pound the guide in. Then hit it again with the pointy dremel to grind away the clear. You can see the final enlarged hole on the left, then original hole on the right.

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4) I used my wire bending rig to adjust the guides & get them just how I wanted them.

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5) Using my dead blow hammer & small piece of wood, I tapped them in. They went in snugly & firmly. I used a ball to check the height, right at the middle of the ball.

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I did the Left sling as well. You can see the holes, before & after prep. Then the guides tapped to below the rubber, at mid-height of the ball.

That said...this took forever. I moved very slow. I didn’t want to make a mistake or crack the clear. Someone else might bang all them out in an hour.

Another note: I prepped every post hole with Kruzman kit & glue method. The glue fills the hole after it dries, and of course I forgot to drill the excess glue out. So I drilled all those holes & they are ready for screws & posts. In hindsight, be sure to do this BEFORE the wood rails are attached.

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Wont it just create a #6 washer impression in the clear? The clear is going to get indented anyway.

Yes the clear is thick on my playfield. Cured for a year. I just assumed post indentations were unavoidable. I want the posts to be firm & solid, especially the pow post by the 4-bank that takes a beating.

This was the whole debate I had about sinking the tnuts so the posts had more threads to grip. Putting a washer under there is only going to raise the posts & give me less threads to screw into.

Flippers soldered & wired. I think I have this right. Added 1Amp slow blow fuse.

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Hmmmm that’s interesting. We talking a small regular #6 washer or a wider one?

From barf to beauty! Evaporust soak & steel wool with mothers mag polish. Time consuming but worth it, even for parts no one will really see.

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So just a single washer? With the single it looks like the same height & no effect. With 2 washers, the post is raised the height of a single washer.

Is that the idea? So that the edges won’t bite into the clear & don’t touch the playfield at all? I’ll have to think about this.

Single washer

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Double washer

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Installed all the parts for the ball drain. Everything fit nicely. Used #6 1/2 inch screws. Nice & shiney.

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However I realized that the new switch will not fit. It’s probably the wrong one, but the old one won’t fit either. Which means I mounted the flipper mechs at slightly the wrong angle. I forgot about that ball trough switch.

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So I’ll just have to get creative, extend the wires & mount it the opposite way once it’s out of the rotisserie. Kinda like this.

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I also just realized I need to run a GI socket to power the LED strip I’m placing in the ball through area.

Mounted the rail protector. Test fitted with the apron plunge housing to make sure it was in the right place. The last screw will come later.

I would have loved it if my rail was just another half inch longer. It’s going to be a tight fit for that last screw. Again... Just measure & make the rails yourself. Don’t buy them like I did.

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Saucer plate added & secured with #6 1/2 inch screws. Made sure it’s secure & solid.

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Installed the ball guides. All polished & cleaned. They fit surprisingly well for newly fabricated parts & lined up with the playfield holes. Go slow. Use a clamp to secure the big guide at the nail hole. One slip & the edges will scratch your clear instantaneously.

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There are two small holes for small nails or screws to secure it to the left & top wood rail. I still need to source those. Not sure what I’m going to use.

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You’ll notice at the top nail hole, the playfield artwork does not extend high enough. You can see white. So once the top wood rail gets installed, I’ll have to see how it fits. I plan on using a small nylon washer to move it forward & cover the white area so it’s not so obvious.

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I could do that too I suppose. I’ll wait until the apron installed tho.

At any rate....the bottom of the playfield is essentially done! So that’s a good feeling. Getting close now!

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I also added my metal strips under the drops, to raise them slightly so they are level with the playfield. I just get them flat, double-side tape them firmly, then use electrical tape to secure them.

I’m not sure how other people do this, but I’ve found this works for me. Plus it’s not permanent & easily reversible if need be.

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Well I tried a small pop bumper cap screw, but the head was still just a bit too large for my liking. When I tested, the ball was slightly nicking it as it rolled by. That makes me nervous on such a fast game. I’d rather put a small nail.

Great job on the guides tho! I’m sure they weren’t easy to get right.