(Topic ID: 265203)
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Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979-
Quicksilver
Stern Electronics, 1980
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So I would get frustrated reading other people’s build threads, when things suddenly jump way ahead & nothing was documented. Well at this point, you need to solder the wiring for each individual controlled lamp for A5J1, A5J2 & A5J3. Believe me when I say it’s pretty straight forward.
Follow your list & check them off as you go. It’s slow tedious work if you are stopping to test for continuity for each socket. But just crack a beer & put on some live Stevie Ray Vaughan as you go. Perhaps run a fan if you don’t feel like breathing solder smoke. But it’s very relaxing. And educational!
B74BE9C1-8F0E-46B0-98DE-836F1E379F19 (resized).jpegDA4579BD-89A9-45C2-BF25-10453B11F0C1 (resized).jpegPhotos of the controlled lamp areas after soldering is completed. Keep in mind the length of your wiring for slack & when mechs & coils are going to go later on.
I was also confused for a moment when I realized some of the controlled Quicksilver letter inserts & the GI bulbs in the rollover lanes are on the same string. Wait! Did I screw up? Then I flipped the playfield over & read the extra ball rules. The GI lamps for the lanes flash when the extra ball is lit! How cool! I had no idea. So of course those GI bulbs need to be on the controlled braid.
But here are some pics of each controlled lamp section...
69B3F7BA-AE17-4454-ACFE-5A8023699F29.jpeg301714C3-9FF5-4F3E-81F6-21F13C7954CD.jpegAE02C001-0509-4C23-949F-909ED24D62AF.jpeg24FF50A5-1A92-4B09-BD9E-E713345DBD2F.jpegA8FC22ED-ACEE-4F94-BEA1-CFF65E26B906.jpegC9050EB7-5DD0-49D4-9EDE-A448BDCA9167.jpegD08A4825-2113-4070-B986-53D9D951CF80.jpeg1700C3A9-E879-4104-8ECF-B2ED617616A8.jpeg
Moe
After doing some test fitting, I discovered my first mistake. I laid the braid down too close to the upper rollover switches. Bummer.
But no worries! Just had to make an adjustment & move the braid back a little bit. I cut the braid, then stapled & soldered in some extensions. Tested for continuity. Good to go.
4C09427D-2696-45BC-8695-0EC9398C5DD8 (resized).jpegB20563C6-A1E7-4EF3-95CB-EC693D23673C (resized).jpegB740DF59-EFE5-4298-96BF-64A188653F43 (resized).jpegUsing new switches & mounting plates. Using #4 x 3/4 PAN screws to secure.
Note that the Mirco holes are too close to the rollover bracket. The switches will not operate properly. So you will need to move the switch back a bit & drill new holes for every switch.
CDE57FFC-07C9-4E07-9F5C-923CF58D7C7D (resized).jpeg7A987A78-0A4C-4778-AD90-A9811B6D8308 (resized).jpeg2EA52339-EE53-423A-897E-19476CD705CF (resized).jpeg304584D1-AC76-4DBA-B7BB-A9FB14B490B0 (resized).jpegWell Pinside being down for a week really threw me for a loop. I constantly reference other threads, check photos & ask questions as I work. It put me at a complete standstill. I don’t think the majority of users on here take advantage of the wealth of knowledge available on here. Anyway I’m so glad it’s back. I’ll have to donate again for sure. I couldn’t restore games without it 
Back to the build!
The standup targets from pinball life are installed. They arrived with the brackets bent, so the targets were rubbing against the playfield. I had to straighten them out to 90 degrees, and now they sit & operate properly.
23821843-DA8C-44B8-9A88-AF14469543A3 (resized).jpeg45556093-013C-4AD2-BAB8-E0AC0C35E2ED (resized).jpegB193CA14-6372-4B6C-84A2-165DA854AB8E (resized).jpegThe standup K target is different from the rest. Due to the placement near a GI socket, the standard bracket won’t work. So I had to buy a different bracket & assemble myself. Make sure you place the bracket properly as one side is longer than the other.
AB9978AF-BB1B-4645-B79D-3F8C8A9543AC (resized).jpeg6FB60C1E-D630-4AF7-BEBD-D09F788BE351 (resized).jpeg943E9ED6-64AB-41E4-8DF0-36F2F6FBCA09 (resized).jpegB9C6467E-1726-4761-AC97-B4ADCA0469BA (resized).jpegRT spinner switch installed. Place as needed. It came with a spacer block for the proper height. I placed the wire hole directly in the center of the playfield access hole. Hopefully that turns out to be correct.
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well Pinside being down for a week really threw me for a loop. I constantly reference other threads, check photos & ask questions as I work. It put me at a complete standstill. I don’t think the majority of users on here take advantage of the wealth of knowledge available on here. Anyway I’m so glad it’s back. I’ll have to donate again for sure. I couldn’t restore games without it
Back to the build!
Agree and thanks for documenting your build. The details you are including are very helpful.
San Francisco, CA
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:brackets bent
Sometimes I wonder whether the slight downward angle helps reduce air balls. I have not run any tests to test the hypothesis.
-mof
Quoted from mof:Sometimes I wonder whether the slight downward angle helps reduce air balls. I have not run any tests to test the hypothesis.
-mof
That’s something I hadn’t considered. But the standups on QS get most of their action from the pops. Really no direct shots, so I don’t think airballs will be a problem. I’ll see how it plays.
Installed the saucer eject mech today. First was to swap out the red opaque base plate for an orange translucent one. It will allow additional light to shine through it.
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With everything on this playfield, the predrilled holes were of little use. Adjusted and drilled new holes. Then installed the arm so it’s centered in the opening. Used a spare ball to make sure it sat properly.
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Drilled new holes for the coil bracket. Made sure to check that the plunger moves freely.
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Then finally added the switch. All good to go.
I added an additional lay down socket when I was installing the GI lighting, since I knew I’d like to light the saucer from underneath.
I experimented with various Matrix bulbs & setups. Flex bulbs, strips, etc. With what had lying around, I found this setup worked the best. One flex bulb just isn’t enough, it needs to be lit from both sides of the arm. Both the switch & the arms move freely, and the saucer is well lit. Good to go.
0E7E5522-155A-4A4F-9361-7034EF2B88F5 (resized).jpegE3DFBAEE-1EFC-447A-A50E-E9B2A86D2523 (resized).jpegThe Third Coast harness from Mk1Mod0 has a nice feature. Both drop target assemblies are connected via molex connectors. This makes it easy to disconnect & service later if needed. I plan on adding molex connectors for the pops as well. Here’s the RT drop assembly all wired up.
2478EC53-0257-410C-979D-138A2930BB59 (resized).jpegSo this is the issue I’m run into now. I have 8 standup switches to install. 5 of them are correct with 3 prongs. 2 only have 2 prongs, and 1 is riveted backwards.
I’m pretty sure the last 3 are defective. That’s frustrating to say the least.
I’ve also noticed the Gottlieb spinner switches only have 2 prongs, but they need to have 3. So I’m going to have to take apart some old switches & do some modifying.
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Gottlieb spinner switches only have 2 prongs
Gottlieb used a set of diode boards so as to keep the switches consistent with the EM style games.
Laval, QC
So I ordered more parts & I was waiting on those. The molex connectors arrived from Great Plains, so now I can start working on the pops.
I ordered 3 of the DE Pop assemblies from Pinball Life. This is much easier than piecing the entire assembly together from separate pieces. The only thing I did purchase was 3D printed rings from Swinks on Shapeways. The original versions are grey, but I thought let’s color them up a bit!
My only complaint though, is that they are pretty soft plastic. The rings are thick & hard, but the shafts are pretty thin & flexible. Nothing like a steel rod. I used 1 inch #5 pan screws to secure them, but you cannot overtighten them. If you do, the shafts will bind up & twist, making the pop inoperable. If you use a #6 screw or larger, the plastic will bulge & crack. We’ll see how they hold up, but I’m not sure. I’m definitely using molex connectors on each pop, specifically for this reason.
The sockets in the pops are 555s, so of course the pop LEDs I bought are 44s. I’m not spending another $20 on the right lights, so I modified the pops & added & soldered in a 44 socket.
I think they turned out great! Before & after....now I need to attach the molex connectors.
2E581621-0025-4238-B4CA-C9174FE61113 (resized).jpeg8DA3FAF1-612A-4148-98DD-CB2542726FD5 (resized).jpegB68030C1-1F66-4A61-AACC-17FC7FFB1F6D (resized).jpeg9B4BA4DA-8BB7-4B50-A019-8E06A9379D37 (resized).jpegEA972AF9-1C42-433B-A1F1-4508D3EBCA4E (resized).jpeg4828F04F-CB1B-4493-A3E3-40C4A8ACCDA7 (resized).jpegFB3652C7-7A10-4E2C-92B0-282C33AE6C81 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:So I ordered more parts & I was waiting on those. The molex connectors arrived from Great Plains, so now I can start working on the pops.
I ordered 3 of the DE Pop assemblies from Pinball Life. This is much easier than piecing the entire assembly together from separate pieces. The only thing I did purchase was 3D printed rings from Swinks on Shapeways. The original versions are grey, but I thought let’s color them up a bit!
My only complaint though, is that they are pretty soft plastic. The rings are thick & hard, but the shafts are pretty thin & flexible. Nothing like a steel rod. I used 1 inch #5 pan screws to secure them, but you cannot overtighten them. If you do, the shafts will bind up & twist, making the pop inoperable. If you use a #6 screw or larger, the plastic will bulge & crack. We’ll see how they hold up, but I’m not sure. I’m definitely using molex connectors on each pop, specifically for this reason.
The sockets in the pops are 555s, so of course the pop LEDs I bought are 44s. I’m not spending another $20 on the right lights, so I modified the pops & added & soldered in a 44 socket.
I think they turned out great! Before & after....now I need to attach the molex connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like the way you changed the socket over. Great idea.
Can’t tell from the pictures but I thought I read about that assembly not coming already with a diode installed on the coil. Don’t forget to add if it’s not there.
Yes I remember noticing that but I had forgotten. Thanks. I will add while adding the molex connections.
Reichenau Im Mühlkreis
Just tried to stay consistent with color/wire placement for each pop. Crimped & tested. Ready for install.
F9CFA987-FDF4-4FF5-9E8B-FBA48552DF74 (resized).jpeg74EA25EC-EB4E-4B72-9BF6-0E0BB82364A1 (resized).jpegFC6EF9AF-209F-48E9-AB01-78529ACAD135 (resized).jpeg8CD566AD-9C96-42F6-8C1E-511A93F13F89 (resized).jpegBut the playfield required some prep first for the GI lighting. I harvested this GI “bridge” from the Meteor. Red & white power coming in from the bottom contacts, then 3 wires running out the tops contacts to each pop.
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When I had to run 2 wires to one socket, I used the larger 0.093 14-20g sockets to make sure they crimped properly.
I should also mention it’s incredibly important to have a decent crimper like this one. I bought this on Amazon a while ago. I don’t know what brand it is but it makes crimping a breeze.
All connectors assembled. It also wouldn’t hurt to test for continuity before you connect the pops.
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Quoted from Methos:Why do you install connectors on all of your pops?
It makes it much easier to remove for repair or adjustments. Without the connectors you would have to unsolder everything.
Quoted from Methos:Why do you install connectors on all of your pops?
Quoted from ita47:It makes it much easier to remove for repair or adjustments. Without the connectors you would have to unsolder everything.
Yup - I have become a certified Molex addict. I put every mech and even many switches on plugs when I rebuild a game. It makes future maintenance sooooo much easier.
Today was diodes & capacitor day. Lots of slow tedious work, making sure not to make any mistakes. Used the Third Coast harness instructions as a guide, then double check and verified against the QS switch matrix schematic. I had an epiphany the other night thanks to my buddy @inyo, and then everything clicked. Now that I can read the schematic, I feel like I actually know what I’m doing!
Great Plains was the only place I could find the correct 0.047uf 100V capacitors, and they were cheap too when buying in bulk. The diodes are standard 1N4001 model. They are dirt cheap as well.
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Since I already installed the switches, I thought I could add the diodes/caps while on the playfield. This just wasn’t possible. In hindsight I could have added before installing, but some areas are tight fits & required some adapting. I would do it this way again. Much easier to solder in on the workbench.
Here is the guide to switch installation. I kept it consistent throughout the install. Use the matrix diagram as your guide. Row wires to LUG A & Column wires to LUG C. Diode between LUG B & LUG C, with banded side to LUG B. Caps between LUG A & LUG B.
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The matrix diagram, available on IPDB
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