Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979
Quicksilver
Stern Electronics, 1980Well I’ll spare you the details, but I thought I could use my plunge router to drill out all the holes. I’m not sure if I had the wrong bit or my technique was wrong, but I couldn’t stop the MDF from burning up. And the smoke! Thought I was going to start a fire. I’m pretty sure it will go fine cutting out the display windows. It was just too much friction trying to drill the holes.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well I’ll spare you the details, but I thought I could use my plunge router to drill out all the holes. I’m not sure if I had the wrong bit or my technique was wrong, but I couldn’t stop the MDF from burning up. And the smoke! Thought I was going to start a fire. I’m pretty sure it will go fine cutting out the display windows. It was just too much friction trying to drill the holes.
Yeah the drill with the Forstner bit was a better way to go for the holes. You may get wood burning using the router with the display window cutting depending on feed speed.
I was initially thinking jigsaw for the display window cutting. Don't know how MDF would do with rip out unless it's a medium to high tooth per inch blade. Good side of board down.
My board is 3/4" birch plywood. Anyone that has made their boards have thoughts on either MDF or plywood display window cutting tool selection?
Quoted from emsrph:Yeah the drill with the Forstner bit was a better way to go for the holes. You may get wood burning using the router with the display window cutting depending on feed speed.
I was initially thinking jigsaw for the display window cutting. Don't know how MDF would do with rip out unless it's a medium to high tooth per inch blade. Good side of board down.
My board is 3/4" birch plywood. Anyone that has made their boards have thoughts on either MDF or plywood display window cutting tool selection?
I made my light board with birch plywood too. I used a jig saw to cut the score display openings.
But in hindsight, I would do it different, and not cut out the large opening at all. I went with the UNO displays from Pinitech (which is a great product). Because of this, all that is really needed is a space large enough to pass the connector through, and a little clearance for the back of the display.
Quoted from djblouw:I made my light board with birch plywood too. I used a jig saw to cut the score display openings.
But in hindsight, I would do it different, and not cut out the large opening at all. I went with the UNO displays from Pinitech (which is a great product). Because of this, all that is really needed is a space large enough to pass the connector through, and a little clearance for the back of the display.
Intresting. I'm using the same LED displays. I just figured the standard larger opening would give me some leeway to adjust the final display placement. I'm not 100% sure how the reproduction backglass & the new lightboard are going to match up. I'll find out when I put everything together.
I did some testing with my router bit though on the spare piece of MDF I had. It cut easily right through it when moving the router across the surface, so that's how I'll be cutting the windows out. Just going to use some clamped metal rulers as a guide. I wouldn't want to rely on free hand with the router.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Intresting. I'm using the same LED displays. I just figured the standard larger opening would give me some leeway to adjust the final display placement. I'm not 100% sure how the reproduction backglass & the new lightboard are going to match up. I'll find out when I put everything together.
I did some testing with my router bit though on the spare piece of MDF I had. It cut easily right through it when moving the router across the surface, so that's how I'll be cutting the windows out. Just going to use some clamped metal rulers as a guide. I wouldn't want to rely on free hand with the router.
That’s good that the router cuts the MDF well. Yes, good way to do it against the straight edge guide.
I was going to stay with original displays although the Pinitech Uno looks good. I’ve done two sets of Retro displays (recycling old boards for a Bally 6 digit and Stern 7 digit pin) and enjoyed the kit format.
I have the reproduction back glass on order and was wondering the same about any difference in display position.
With the flat Pinitech Uno displays, you can adjust them laterally once the screws are placed so you can get them dialed in nicely. One of the reasons I like them so much, along with the fact the displays are LED & can be changed to different colors using the gels.
Yes, I did have to do some location adjustments on the displays to align best with the backglass.
I actually waited to drill the holes for the screw that hold the display until it was all put together. I put the light board in the head, then taped the displays onto the light board, and put the back glass in, took a picture, took the glass back out, and repositioned the displays a little bit. It took 3 or 4 tries to get it aligned. Then just marked the holes and screwed down the displays.
Cut out the light board with the router today. Came out great. Using a straight edge is essential to getting nice controlled cuts. Sprayed with primer, but I think I might give it another coat. This MDF just sucks up the paint.
Also made good progress on the coin door assembly. But no sneak peeks until it’s finished 
27D97CE8-9FEA-4EBF-8A98-2B7110F38675 (resized).jpegEEFBD09D-9A59-4657-8447-EB774770643F (resized).jpeg
DAAD3826-4D14-413E-8136-1F4FEC32F1E3 (resized).jpeg31E4502E-2D0A-430B-A145-5863B5563453 (resized).jpegAF5A91C2-785A-434F-A871-D28BE83A5C66 (resized).jpeg
And now for your viewing pleasure.....sexy coin door pics!
I also soldered in the Third Coast door harness, as the old Meteor wiring was hacked up & had a different plug to connect to the lower cabinet harness. The coin slots are 3D printed & vibrant white. The coin price plastics are new from Marco. I need to pick up 2 coin mechs for slots 2 & 3.
And I added a quarter from my change jar to the door, same year as Quicksilver’s release in 1980 
The key fob is the wrong font but it’s all I could find.
C3F7066A-4C9A-4350-9190-652437A482CA (resized).jpeg866BA32D-EE40-47E2-AD3C-C2997EFB64C3 (resized).jpegFD4E80B4-463A-4546-BC59-15226E6F185E (resized).jpeg1C93C82B-EEB4-43F4-90B7-553D59A8B88D (resized).jpeg45531364-2878-4F58-8C3A-B32A77EA7C6E (resized).jpegE78C2C04-9248-4F9F-ACE9-594ED1EF5521 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:I was feeling pretty happy how it all turned out.... until I realized I never filled the lock bar hole somebody drilled in the cabinet![quoted image]
I’ve done stuff like that...oops! Time for a little fiberglass filler, bondo, frisket, paint...
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:And I added a quarter from my change jar to the door, same year as Quicksilver’s release in 1980
Well I haven't seen that before, I like it!
Quoted from dr_nybble:May not be too bad to just sand off the front and redo that.
Ha. Ah yeah, that won't be happening. I will plug the hole with something. Not too worried about it.
Small black rubber stopper or gromet will work. Then sit back & see if anyone notices.
At least I know not to make that mistake ever again!
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:plug the hole
I would agree, however...
No better time than now -- to put the cabinet on its back (while it's light and easy to manage) and level the coin door face, and close off the back side with tape, and fill it flat with fiberglass resin -- drop by drop to meet the surface just so.
(I don't speak from experience, I can just imagine this could be a fun and easy fix.)
Also, didn't you say you like to paint on a horizontal surface more? Also -- always best to use left-over paint when it's first brewed and still color-matching well.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Ha. Ah yeah, that won't be happening. I will plug the hole with something. Not too worried about it.
Small black rubber stopper or gromet will work. Then sit back & see if anyone notices.
At least I know not to make that mistake ever again!
If you want to make it go away, no need to sand the whole thing off. Just fill the hole like you did originally with all the other original defects in the wood. Then remove the legs and coin door (and the coin door trim). Mask/protect the coin door opening and surrounding sides. Apply frisket film to the front carefully cut out the silver areas to create a handmade stencil for the silver. Touch up the repair area, feathering it out. Remove frisket. Reapply clear coat. Reassemble. Whew! Or....plug it with a grommet and see who notices! Bottom line, if you’re keeping it just do whatever makes you happy.
Cut a tapered plug, use a flush cut saw to cut it to the right size, paint the end silver and plug the hole!
If I were you I’d give up now and just let me take it off your hands. PM me and I’ll arrange shipping. 
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:So I ran out of wire for the light board.
you should go with this, not running out anytime soon after that
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Q2VLGD/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SuR6FbXSZDBY9
I'm good on wire now. Also cleared up the harness confusion. Should get it soldered & get the door placed tonight
I finished soldering the Third Coast light board harnesses today. Here’s a photo for reference. You have to solder 2 pigtail harnesses. One that supplies power is located in the Upper Cabinet bag, and the other for the controlled lamps is located in the playfield package #2 bag. Tested every socket & connection with the multimeter afterwards. Good to go now.
0E52EBBB-67C1-4452-A170-86970FA5D2CF (resized).jpegStarting to look like a real machine now! Installed the nvram weebly boards. The lightboard fit like a glove. No adjusting necessary. The 3D printed windows from djblouw are the perfect size too.
3B4EE2DC-57A7-4D0D-9AA1-8857D3FF47AA (resized).jpeg84084140-4949-43B4-8AE6-649BA8C50BC5 (resized).jpegCD7594AC-8945-477C-830D-214BF931E046 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:real machine
amazing
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Starting to look like a real machine now! Installed the nvram weebly boards. The lightboard fit like a glove. No adjusting necessary. The 3D printed windows from djblouw are the perfect size too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have to hand it to you, it looks great so far. Had no idea pbl made stern side rails.
Keep it going.
I will mention a few tips if you are building these LED displays & using the Third Coast harness.
The directions will tell you to install the headers with the locking tabs oriented towards the bottom. However on my Third coast harness, the locking tabs are oriented on the top. So you have two choices...
1) Solder the headers with the locking tabs on top. But if you do this, the header housing will cover the hole to solder the capacitor at C2 & the possibly the capacitor at C4. So you will have to make and adjustment to the header housing.
2) Solder the headers with the locking tabs on the bottom as the instructions specify. But you will need to unpin each wire in the harness housing, flip it over with the locking tabs on the bottom, and then insert the wires appropriately.
Well I didn’t feel like unpinning & moving all those wires, so I just chose option 1.
Install the capacitors at C2 & C4 first. Then take your soldering iron & melt a little bit of the plastic so that it fits over your soldered leads. Solder the headers in & you’re all set.
35D4D552-2F36-43B5-AEDB-028EFF9392EE (resized).jpeg8EE2FF8E-EFD6-4C9F-A0DF-B1191F0A6EF4 (resized).jpeg737E844A-385F-42BA-8FC4-05CFF24B842C (resized).jpegF3D5905D-118D-456D-8A04-98FBA1E8F8B4 (resized).jpeg3994A965-D48B-4754-A68C-5D83574298B5 (resized).jpeg
I also found that these cheap little clamps from Harbor Freight do a great job holding the LED displays in place when you’re soldering them. They also work great holding the voltage regulator in place to the pads for soldering.
0378A72E-33D6-4D76-A77A-AA41810B73FA (resized).jpeg3A684DBA-A68E-430D-8BA0-B09741781420 (resized).jpegI made the investment in the workbench magnifying glass, but honestly I really don’t care for it. I remembered I had my magnifying visor headset that I use for painting miniatures, and I found it much more enjoyable.
This curved snipping tool really came in handy as well. Found it on Amazon.
DA96AB67-8BF8-4E3B-8742-C48D29EF4735 (resized).jpeg
Just slowing banging these out. My skills are getting better, but it still taking 3-4 hours per board. Couple more to go...
78018077-8CEE-4CE5-8430-E48A8AD355AC (resized).jpeg
3BFB5561-334F-416E-91A7-69F76216ECDF (resized).jpeg
One thing I learned with those displays, is to paint the white sides black before u solder onto board. They have a plastic film on them to make this easy. Just stick them in the foam and hit them with paint.
Also, spray the surround foams black as well, as they are more grey, and dont look too good once installed behind backglass.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Screw this! I think I’m covered on hardware now. [quoted image]
Nice! Did you get this as an assortment or get them separately? From BoltDepot?
Quoted from djblouw:Nope, you’re going to run out of #6 x 1/2 hex as well as the 3/8. Haha.
yeah...I have extra bags. We'll see how many I go through. No truss head though. I still have a tray of washers to sort.
That Bolt Depot a godsend. Cheap bulk prices, order in 100/piece bags with cheap shipping. $5 tray organizers from Harbor Freight & a Dynamo label printer off Amazon.
Finally finished soldering the displays today. Hopefully nothing explodes when I power them on.
But now that they are finished, it means it’s time to get the backglass ready. I’ve had it wrapped up for months & haven’t gotten a good look at it yet. So I purchased & installed a new shiny lift bar since the old one off my Meteor was pretty dented. Then I cleaned up the old lock mounding for the top of the glass. Lots of wet sanding & mothers mag polish. Added some black 1/8” molding for the sides and.....
31D6EE36-F6AC-42B9-B218-FB90C217A927 (resized).jpegBD9E3D2B-9F7D-44E3-B673-F8AC3ADD580E (resized).jpeg536620CC-347F-470D-BFE9-AB792E68BD1D (resized).jpeg95EB9249-77AA-44F0-8EF3-43BDF8943ADF (resized).jpeg9EFEC071-EA9C-492E-A40D-1EB8CAED29A7 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:WOW this backglass really pops! One of the best of all time IMO. Can’t wait to get the displays mounted & see it lit up for the first time. Fit in place like a glove![quoted image]
Nice looking backglass. Where did you source it?
Coos has them as well, which might be nice for EU buyers, or if you want a glass faster than bgresto’s typical turnaround.
http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/backglasses.html
I’ve also got a bgresto and no complaints other than light penetration. Gonna have to get brighter LEDs, I guess, but not a big deal. No idea how Coos’ compare but I’ve only read good things about their quality.
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Yes, BGResto here too.
Very happy with it.
[quoted image]
Why does your BG background look blood red instead of bright pink? Is that just the camera exposure or does yours really look that way? If so, I wouldn't be pleased with that at all. I love the bright pink...really makes the glass pop.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Why does your BG background look blood red instead of bright pink? Is that just the camera exposure or does yours really look that way? If so, I wouldn't be pleased with that at all. I love the bright pink...really makes the glass pop.
Pinside rule #8976 never openly comment on BGresto colors being off 
Quoted from mrm_4:Pinside rule #8976 never openly comment on BGresto colors being off
That's a known thing? I wasn't aware.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-2nd-restoration-quicksilver-scratch-build/page/3?hl=mrm_4 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Leamington, ON
San Francisco, CA
Moe