(Topic ID: 265203)

My 2nd Restoration: Quicksilver scratch build


By HoakyPoaky

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 150 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 minutes ago by hisokajp
  • Topic is favorited by 37 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 291 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

16117114449789217153421040893390 (resized).jpg
47E15F4C-4117-4F09-8ACF-DBB223B1444D.jpeg
9EFEC071-EA9C-492E-A40D-1EB8CAED29A7 (resized).jpeg
95EB9249-77AA-44F0-8EF3-43BDF8943ADF (resized).jpeg
BD9E3D2B-9F7D-44E3-B673-F8AC3ADD580E (resized).jpeg
536620CC-347F-470D-BFE9-AB792E68BD1D (resized).jpeg
31D6EE36-F6AC-42B9-B218-FB90C217A927 (resized).jpeg
EAB98C0F-B867-4ADF-944B-BBE506C0F8BB (resized).jpeg
3BFB5561-334F-416E-91A7-69F76216ECDF (resized).jpeg
78018077-8CEE-4CE5-8430-E48A8AD355AC (resized).jpeg
DA96AB67-8BF8-4E3B-8742-C48D29EF4735 (resized).jpeg
3A684DBA-A68E-430D-8BA0-B09741781420 (resized).jpeg
0378A72E-33D6-4D76-A77A-AA41810B73FA (resized).jpeg
F3D5905D-118D-456D-8A04-98FBA1E8F8B4 (resized).jpeg
3994A965-D48B-4754-A68C-5D83574298B5 (resized).jpeg
737E844A-385F-42BA-8FC4-05CFF24B842C (resized).jpeg

There are 150 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 49 days ago

Well I’ll spare you the details, but I thought I could use my plunge router to drill out all the holes. I’m not sure if I had the wrong bit or my technique was wrong, but I couldn’t stop the MDF from burning up. And the smoke! Thought I was going to start a fire. I’m pretty sure it will go fine cutting out the display windows. It was just too much friction trying to drill the holes.

#102 49 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Well I’ll spare you the details, but I thought I could use my plunge router to drill out all the holes. I’m not sure if I had the wrong bit or my technique was wrong, but I couldn’t stop the MDF from burning up. And the smoke! Thought I was going to start a fire. I’m pretty sure it will go fine cutting out the display windows. It was just too much friction trying to drill the holes.

Yeah the drill with the Forstner bit was a better way to go for the holes. You may get wood burning using the router with the display window cutting depending on feed speed.

I was initially thinking jigsaw for the display window cutting. Don't know how MDF would do with rip out unless it's a medium to high tooth per inch blade. Good side of board down.

My board is 3/4" birch plywood. Anyone that has made their boards have thoughts on either MDF or plywood display window cutting tool selection?

#103 49 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Yeah the drill with the Forstner bit was a better way to go for the holes. You may get wood burning using the router with the display window cutting depending on feed speed.
I was initially thinking jigsaw for the display window cutting. Don't know how MDF would do with rip out unless it's a medium to high tooth per inch blade. Good side of board down.
My board is 3/4" birch plywood. Anyone that has made their boards have thoughts on either MDF or plywood display window cutting tool selection?

I made my light board with birch plywood too. I used a jig saw to cut the score display openings.

But in hindsight, I would do it different, and not cut out the large opening at all. I went with the UNO displays from Pinitech (which is a great product). Because of this, all that is really needed is a space large enough to pass the connector through, and a little clearance for the back of the display.

#104 49 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I made my light board with birch plywood too. I used a jig saw to cut the score display openings.
But in hindsight, I would do it different, and not cut out the large opening at all. I went with the UNO displays from Pinitech (which is a great product). Because of this, all that is really needed is a space large enough to pass the connector through, and a little clearance for the back of the display.

Intresting. I'm using the same LED displays. I just figured the standard larger opening would give me some leeway to adjust the final display placement. I'm not 100% sure how the reproduction backglass & the new lightboard are going to match up. I'll find out when I put everything together.

I did some testing with my router bit though on the spare piece of MDF I had. It cut easily right through it when moving the router across the surface, so that's how I'll be cutting the windows out. Just going to use some clamped metal rulers as a guide. I wouldn't want to rely on free hand with the router.

#105 49 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Intresting. I'm using the same LED displays. I just figured the standard larger opening would give me some leeway to adjust the final display placement. I'm not 100% sure how the reproduction backglass & the new lightboard are going to match up. I'll find out when I put everything together.
I did some testing with my router bit though on the spare piece of MDF I had. It cut easily right through it when moving the router across the surface, so that's how I'll be cutting the windows out. Just going to use some clamped metal rulers as a guide. I wouldn't want to rely on free hand with the router.

That’s good that the router cuts the MDF well. Yes, good way to do it against the straight edge guide.

I was going to stay with original displays although the Pinitech Uno looks good. I’ve done two sets of Retro displays (recycling old boards for a Bally 6 digit and Stern 7 digit pin) and enjoyed the kit format.

I have the reproduction back glass on order and was wondering the same about any difference in display position.

#106 49 days ago

With the flat Pinitech Uno displays, you can adjust them laterally once the screws are placed so you can get them dialed in nicely. One of the reasons I like them so much, along with the fact the displays are LED & can be changed to different colors using the gels.

#107 49 days ago

Yes, I did have to do some location adjustments on the displays to align best with the backglass.

I actually waited to drill the holes for the screw that hold the display until it was all put together. I put the light board in the head, then taped the displays onto the light board, and put the back glass in, took a picture, took the glass back out, and repositioned the displays a little bit. It took 3 or 4 tries to get it aligned. Then just marked the holes and screwed down the displays.

#108 45 days ago

Cut out the light board with the router today. Came out great. Using a straight edge is essential to getting nice controlled cuts. Sprayed with primer, but I think I might give it another coat. This MDF just sucks up the paint.

Also made good progress on the coin door assembly. But no sneak peeks until it’s finished

27D97CE8-9FEA-4EBF-8A98-2B7110F38675 (resized).jpegEEFBD09D-9A59-4657-8447-EB774770643F (resized).jpeg

DAAD3826-4D14-413E-8136-1F4FEC32F1E3 (resized).jpeg31E4502E-2D0A-430B-A145-5863B5563453 (resized).jpegAF5A91C2-785A-434F-A871-D28BE83A5C66 (resized).jpeg

#109 45 days ago

You'd probably have way better control freehanding stuff with a palm router. That's basically what they're made for. Nice job wielding that hulk of a dewalt though.

#110 42 days ago

Rustoleum white gloss applied, turned out nice. I sanded the primer lightly, especially along the edges, and it seemed to take the paint better.

8CA14AF6-8057-4F4D-8B10-5BC0BF17AD84 (resized).jpeg

#111 42 days ago

And now for your viewing pleasure.....sexy coin door pics!

I also soldered in the Third Coast door harness, as the old Meteor wiring was hacked up & had a different plug to connect to the lower cabinet harness. The coin slots are 3D printed & vibrant white. The coin price plastics are new from Marco. I need to pick up 2 coin mechs for slots 2 & 3.

And I added a quarter from my change jar to the door, same year as Quicksilver’s release in 1980

The key fob is the wrong font but it’s all I could find.

C3F7066A-4C9A-4350-9190-652437A482CA (resized).jpeg866BA32D-EE40-47E2-AD3C-C2997EFB64C3 (resized).jpegFD4E80B4-463A-4546-BC59-15226E6F185E (resized).jpeg1C93C82B-EEB4-43F4-90B7-553D59A8B88D (resized).jpeg45531364-2878-4F58-8C3A-B32A77EA7C6E (resized).jpegE78C2C04-9248-4F9F-ACE9-594ED1EF5521 (resized).jpeg
#112 42 days ago

I was feeling pretty happy how it all turned out.... until I realized I never filled the lock bar hole somebody drilled in the cabinet!

B25C2609-0162-477B-BB83-9DDC814C7C12 (resized).jpeg
#113 42 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I was feeling pretty happy how it all turned out.... until I realized I never filled the lock bar hole somebody drilled in the cabinet![quoted image]

I’ve done stuff like that...oops! Time for a little fiberglass filler, bondo, frisket, paint...

#114 42 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

And I added a quarter from my change jar to the door, same year as Quicksilver’s release in 1980

Well I haven't seen that before, I like it!

#115 42 days ago

I sanded off my cabinet paint jobs more times than I care to remember when I was first learning how to do it. May not be too bad to just sand off the front and redo that.

#116 42 days ago

If you have an original backbox panel you can use a pattern tracing bit to duplicate the cut-outs. I did that with a speaker panel and it worked very well.

#117 42 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

May not be too bad to just sand off the front and redo that.

Ha. Ah yeah, that won't be happening. I will plug the hole with something. Not too worried about it.

Small black rubber stopper or gromet will work. Then sit back & see if anyone notices.

At least I know not to make that mistake ever again!

#118 42 days ago

I would agree, however...

No better time than now -- to put the cabinet on its back (while it's light and easy to manage) and level the coin door face, and close off the back side with tape, and fill it flat with fiberglass resin -- drop by drop to meet the surface just so.

(I don't speak from experience, I can just imagine this could be a fun and easy fix.)

Also, didn't you say you like to paint on a horizontal surface more? Also -- always best to use left-over paint when it's first brewed and still color-matching well.

#119 42 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Ha. Ah yeah, that won't be happening. I will plug the hole with something. Not too worried about it.
Small black rubber stopper or gromet will work. Then sit back & see if anyone notices.
At least I know not to make that mistake ever again!

If you want to make it go away, no need to sand the whole thing off. Just fill the hole like you did originally with all the other original defects in the wood. Then remove the legs and coin door (and the coin door trim). Mask/protect the coin door opening and surrounding sides. Apply frisket film to the front carefully cut out the silver areas to create a handmade stencil for the silver. Touch up the repair area, feathering it out. Remove frisket. Reapply clear coat. Reassemble. Whew! Or....plug it with a grommet and see who notices! Bottom line, if you’re keeping it just do whatever makes you happy.

#120 41 days ago

I appreciate what you guys are saying, but this train is full speed ahead at this point. Onward & upward!

Then again, perhaps I just need to stare at the hole until my obsessive desire for perfection kicks in.....

ragrets.gif
#121 41 days ago

Cut a tapered plug, use a flush cut saw to cut it to the right size, paint the end silver and plug the hole!

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/32320-veritas-imperial-tapered-snug-plug-cutters

#122 41 days ago

If I were you I’d give up now and just let me take it off your hands. PM me and I’ll arrange shipping.

1 week later
#123 29 days ago

So I ran out of wire for the light board. Waited for it to arrive, then got it all soldered up. Still have to attach the new harness, but I have some questions. If anyone has soldered in the third coast harness, I’d appreciate a pic.

E5470C0E-46D7-4D2A-B3D3-867418A160E2 (resized).jpeg
#124 29 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I ran out of wire for the light board.

you should go with this, not running out anytime soon after that
amazon.com link »

#125 29 days ago

I'm good on wire now. Also cleared up the harness confusion. Should get it soldered & get the door placed tonight

#126 28 days ago

I finished soldering the Third Coast light board harnesses today. Here’s a photo for reference. You have to solder 2 pigtail harnesses. One that supplies power is located in the Upper Cabinet bag, and the other for the controlled lamps is located in the playfield package #2 bag. Tested every socket & connection with the multimeter afterwards. Good to go now.

0E52EBBB-67C1-4452-A170-86970FA5D2CF (resized).jpeg
#127 28 days ago

Starting to look like a real machine now! Installed the nvram weebly boards. The lightboard fit like a glove. No adjusting necessary. The 3D printed windows from djblouw are the perfect size too.

3B4EE2DC-57A7-4D0D-9AA1-8857D3FF47AA (resized).jpeg84084140-4949-43B4-8AE6-649BA8C50BC5 (resized).jpegCD7594AC-8945-477C-830D-214BF931E046 (resized).jpeg
#129 28 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Starting to look like a real machine now! Installed the nvram weebly boards. The lightboard fit like a glove. No adjusting necessary. The 3D printed windows from djblouw are the perfect size too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have to hand it to you, it looks great so far. Had no idea pbl made stern side rails.
Keep it going.

2 weeks later
#130 14 days ago

I’ve just been chipping away at these displays....and when I’m not doing that, I’ve been compiling my parts list to order for the playfield. It’s becoming quite the list!

B979A88D-BAA5-4B76-873F-387D54A00C43 (resized).jpeg
0BC45E23-CE2A-4FEA-A0AA-36A78FC38B24 (resized).jpeg

#131 14 days ago

I will mention a few tips if you are building these LED displays & using the Third Coast harness.

The directions will tell you to install the headers with the locking tabs oriented towards the bottom. However on my Third coast harness, the locking tabs are oriented on the top. So you have two choices...

1) Solder the headers with the locking tabs on top. But if you do this, the header housing will cover the hole to solder the capacitor at C2 & the possibly the capacitor at C4. So you will have to make and adjustment to the header housing.

2) Solder the headers with the locking tabs on the bottom as the instructions specify. But you will need to unpin each wire in the harness housing, flip it over with the locking tabs on the bottom, and then insert the wires appropriately.

Well I didn’t feel like unpinning & moving all those wires, so I just chose option 1.

Install the capacitors at C2 & C4 first. Then take your soldering iron & melt a little bit of the plastic so that it fits over your soldered leads. Solder the headers in & you’re all set.
35D4D552-2F36-43B5-AEDB-028EFF9392EE (resized).jpeg8EE2FF8E-EFD6-4C9F-A0DF-B1191F0A6EF4 (resized).jpeg737E844A-385F-42BA-8FC4-05CFF24B842C (resized).jpegF3D5905D-118D-456D-8A04-98FBA1E8F8B4 (resized).jpeg3994A965-D48B-4754-A68C-5D83574298B5 (resized).jpeg

#132 14 days ago

I also found that these cheap little clamps from Harbor Freight do a great job holding the LED displays in place when you’re soldering them. They also work great holding the voltage regulator in place to the pads for soldering.

0378A72E-33D6-4D76-A77A-AA41810B73FA (resized).jpeg3A684DBA-A68E-430D-8BA0-B09741781420 (resized).jpeg
#133 14 days ago

I made the investment in the workbench magnifying glass, but honestly I really don’t care for it. I remembered I had my magnifying visor headset that I use for painting miniatures, and I found it much more enjoyable.

This curved snipping tool really came in handy as well. Found it on Amazon.

DA96AB67-8BF8-4E3B-8742-C48D29EF4735 (resized).jpeg

Just slowing banging these out. My skills are getting better, but it still taking 3-4 hours per board. Couple more to go...

78018077-8CEE-4CE5-8430-E48A8AD355AC (resized).jpeg
3BFB5561-334F-416E-91A7-69F76216ECDF (resized).jpeg

#134 13 days ago

One thing I learned with those displays, is to paint the white sides black before u solder onto board. They have a plastic film on them to make this easy. Just stick them in the foam and hit them with paint.
Also, spray the surround foams black as well, as they are more grey, and dont look too good once installed behind backglass.

#135 7 days ago

Screw this! I think I’m covered on hardware now.

EAB98C0F-B867-4ADF-944B-BBE506C0F8BB (resized).jpeg
#136 7 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Screw this! I think I’m covered on hardware now. [quoted image]

Nice! Did you get this as an assortment or get them separately? From BoltDepot?

#137 7 days ago

No truss head?

#138 7 days ago

Nope, you’re going to run out of #6 x 1/2 hex as well as the 3/8. Haha.

#139 7 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Nope, you’re going to run out of #6 x 1/2 hex as well as the 3/8. Haha.

yeah...I have extra bags. We'll see how many I go through. No truss head though. I still have a tray of washers to sort.

That Bolt Depot a godsend. Cheap bulk prices, order in 100/piece bags with cheap shipping. $5 tray organizers from Harbor Freight & a Dynamo label printer off Amazon.

#140 3 days ago

Finally finished soldering the displays today. Hopefully nothing explodes when I power them on.

But now that they are finished, it means it’s time to get the backglass ready. I’ve had it wrapped up for months & haven’t gotten a good look at it yet. So I purchased & installed a new shiny lift bar since the old one off my Meteor was pretty dented. Then I cleaned up the old lock mounding for the top of the glass. Lots of wet sanding & mothers mag polish. Added some black 1/8” molding for the sides and.....

31D6EE36-F6AC-42B9-B218-FB90C217A927 (resized).jpegBD9E3D2B-9F7D-44E3-B673-F8AC3ADD580E (resized).jpeg536620CC-347F-470D-BFE9-AB792E68BD1D (resized).jpeg95EB9249-77AA-44F0-8EF3-43BDF8943ADF (resized).jpeg9EFEC071-EA9C-492E-A40D-1EB8CAED29A7 (resized).jpeg
#141 3 days ago

WOW this backglass really pops! One of the best of all time IMO. Can’t wait to get the displays mounted & see it lit up for the first time. Fit in place like a glove!

47E15F4C-4117-4F09-8ACF-DBB223B1444D.jpeg
#142 3 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

WOW this backglass really pops! One of the best of all time IMO. Can’t wait to get the displays mounted & see it lit up for the first time. Fit in place like a glove![quoted image]

Nice looking backglass. Where did you source it?

#143 3 days ago

BG Resto is the only place for QS backglass i think?

#144 3 days ago

Coos has them as well, which might be nice for EU buyers, or if you want a glass faster than bgresto’s typical turnaround.

http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/backglasses.html

I’ve also got a bgresto and no complaints other than light penetration. Gonna have to get brighter LEDs, I guess, but not a big deal. No idea how Coos’ compare but I’ve only read good things about their quality.

#145 2 days ago

Yes it was from BGResto. Expect a four month turnaround time or longer.

#146 19 hours ago

Yes, BGResto here too.
Very happy with it.

16117114449789217153421040893390 (resized).jpg
#147 1 hour ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Yes, BGResto here too.
Very happy with it.
[quoted image]

Why does your BG background look blood red instead of bright pink? Is that just the camera exposure or does yours really look that way? If so, I wouldn't be pleased with that at all. I love the bright pink...really makes the glass pop.

#148 46 minutes ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Why does your BG background look blood red instead of bright pink? Is that just the camera exposure or does yours really look that way? If so, I wouldn't be pleased with that at all. I love the bright pink...really makes the glass pop.

Pinside rule #8976 never openly comment on BGresto colors being off

#149 38 minutes ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Pinside rule #8976 never openly comment on BGresto colors being off

That's a known thing? I wasn't aware.

#150 22 minutes ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

That's a known thing? I wasn't aware.

looks more like an exposure thing... my BGresto QS BG is bright pink

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 25.00
Boards
nvram.weebly.com
$ 899.00
There are 150 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside