San Francisco, CA
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:officially done
Looks impeccable man.
Great vid!!!
-mof
(Topic ID: 265203)
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Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979-
Quicksilver
Stern Electronics, 1980
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2 weeks later
I keep going back and forth between restoring my project Galaxy and sacrificing it to create a Quicksilver. If I could find a second DT bank and a second spinner, I might be be pushed over the edge. In any case, I am really liking the spinner count mod. Thanks for sharing this project.
Quoted from Evets:I keep going back and forth between restoring my project Galaxy and sacrificing it to create a Quicksilver. If I could find a second DT bank and a second spinner, I might be be pushed over the edge. In any case, I am really liking the spinner count mod. Thanks for sharing this project.
Well if you're debating converting a Galaxy, you're already one step ahead of the game because it has the harder-to-find 4-bank drop target mech. It's much easier to find the stern 3-banks. Spinner parts can be purchased as well. The main issue is the QS wiring harnesses, and the production schedule of Shawn @ Third Coast Pinball to make you one. I'd reach out to him if you're serious. There's always a waitlist.
Thanks for the comments, HoakyPoaky. I'll check in with Shawn. I actually enjoy the gameplay of Galaxy (set up to be hard), but vastly prefer the sights and sounds of QS. Overall, game play is roughly a wash for me. If I do go ahead with the transition, it'll be due to how well you've documented your own experience. Thanks.
8 months later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:So just a single washer? With the single it looks like the same height & no effect. With 2 washers, the post is raised the height of a single washer.
Is that the idea? So that the edges won’t bite into the clear & don’t touch the playfield at all? I’ll have to think about this.
Single washer
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Double washer
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Hey man, how is this washer trick for the posts working out? I like the thought of taking pressure away from the base of the post. Does the washer give good support when the post is hammered by the ball?
3 weeks later
No problems yet after a year of play using the washer method. Used new posts, screws up through the t-nuts for a solid foundation. and the #6 washers.
I'll do that for all my future playfield swaps. Best tip I ever read in that HEP restore thread.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:No problems yet after a year of play using the washer method. Used new posts, screws up through the t-nuts for a solid foundation. and the #6 washers.
I'll do that for all my future playfield swaps. Best tip I ever read in that HEP restore thread.
+1 washer under hte post is a great idea!
Quoted from hisokajp:+1 washer under hte post is a great idea!
It is an excellent idea. I wish I had paid more attention to this. I was thinking the lower part of the post would be taking a lot of stress when actually the only stress is going to be impact stress on the rubber ring and the #6 screw.
Mirco should include a package of washers with every play field.
If would be nice if there was some way to get this word out to anyone doing a play field build.
2 months later
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:So I ordered more parts & I was waiting on those. The molex connectors arrived from Great Plains, so now I can start working on the pops.
I ordered 3 of the DE Pop assemblies from Pinball Life. This is much easier than piecing the entire assembly together from separate pieces. The only thing I did purchase was 3D printed rings from Swinks on Shapeways. The original versions are grey, but I thought let’s color them up a bit!
My only complaint though, is that they are pretty soft plastic. The rings are thick & hard, but the shafts are pretty thin & flexible. Nothing like a steel rod. I used 1 inch #5 pan screws to secure them, but you cannot overtighten them. If you do, the shafts will bind up & twist, making the pop inoperable. If you use a #6 screw or larger, the plastic will bulge & crack. We’ll see how they hold up, but I’m not sure. I’m definitely using molex connectors on each pop, specifically for this reason.
The sockets in the pops are 555s, so of course the pop LEDs I bought are 44s. I’m not spending another $20 on the right lights, so I modified the pops & added & soldered in a 44 socket.
I think they turned out great! Before & after....now I need to attach the molex connectors.
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Apologies if I missed it, but how have these pop rings held up? May grab some for myself. Thanks!
6 months later
Quoted from rockwell:Apologies if I missed it, but how have these pop rings held up? May grab some for myself. Thanks!
Sorry I haven't looked at this thread in awhile.
As far as swinks pop rings durability, they have held up perfectly since the initial install. Color is still vibrant as well.
I would not hesitate to recommend them, and I'll definitely be installing them when I do my Cheetah restore.
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