(Topic ID: 265203)

QUICKSILVER scratch build: A Detailed Guide

By HoakyPoaky

4 years ago


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  • 594 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 75 Pinsiders

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There are 594 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 12.
#551 2 years ago

Looks impeccable man.
Great vid!!!
-mof

2 weeks later
#552 2 years ago

I keep going back and forth between restoring my project Galaxy and sacrificing it to create a Quicksilver. If I could find a second DT bank and a second spinner, I might be be pushed over the edge. In any case, I am really liking the spinner count mod. Thanks for sharing this project.

#553 2 years ago
Quoted from Evets:

I keep going back and forth between restoring my project Galaxy and sacrificing it to create a Quicksilver. If I could find a second DT bank and a second spinner, I might be be pushed over the edge. In any case, I am really liking the spinner count mod. Thanks for sharing this project.

Well if you're debating converting a Galaxy, you're already one step ahead of the game because it has the harder-to-find 4-bank drop target mech. It's much easier to find the stern 3-banks. Spinner parts can be purchased as well. The main issue is the QS wiring harnesses, and the production schedule of Shawn @ Third Coast Pinball to make you one. I'd reach out to him if you're serious. There's always a waitlist.

#554 2 years ago

Thanks for the comments, HoakyPoaky. I'll check in with Shawn. I actually enjoy the gameplay of Galaxy (set up to be hard), but vastly prefer the sights and sounds of QS. Overall, game play is roughly a wash for me. If I do go ahead with the transition, it'll be due to how well you've documented your own experience. Thanks.

8 months later
#555 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So just a single washer? With the single it looks like the same height & no effect. With 2 washers, the post is raised the height of a single washer.
Is that the idea? So that the edges won’t bite into the clear & don’t touch the playfield at all? I’ll have to think about this.
Single washer
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Double washer
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Hey man, how is this washer trick for the posts working out? I like the thought of taking pressure away from the base of the post. Does the washer give good support when the post is hammered by the ball?

825b53fc989f7ea10e5f75d42bdefb349026fc31 (resized).jpg825b53fc989f7ea10e5f75d42bdefb349026fc31 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#556 1 year ago

No problems yet after a year of play using the washer method. Used new posts, screws up through the t-nuts for a solid foundation. and the #6 washers.

I'll do that for all my future playfield swaps. Best tip I ever read in that HEP restore thread.

#557 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

No problems yet after a year of play using the washer method. Used new posts, screws up through the t-nuts for a solid foundation. and the #6 washers.
I'll do that for all my future playfield swaps. Best tip I ever read in that HEP restore thread.

+1 washer under hte post is a great idea!

#558 1 year ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

+1 washer under hte post is a great idea!

It is an excellent idea. I wish I had paid more attention to this. I was thinking the lower part of the post would be taking a lot of stress when actually the only stress is going to be impact stress on the rubber ring and the #6 screw.

Mirco should include a package of washers with every play field.

If would be nice if there was some way to get this word out to anyone doing a play field build.

2 months later
#559 1 year ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I ordered more parts & I was waiting on those. The molex connectors arrived from Great Plains, so now I can start working on the pops.
I ordered 3 of the DE Pop assemblies from Pinball Life. This is much easier than piecing the entire assembly together from separate pieces. The only thing I did purchase was 3D printed rings from Swinks on Shapeways. The original versions are grey, but I thought let’s color them up a bit!
My only complaint though, is that they are pretty soft plastic. The rings are thick & hard, but the shafts are pretty thin & flexible. Nothing like a steel rod. I used 1 inch #5 pan screws to secure them, but you cannot overtighten them. If you do, the shafts will bind up & twist, making the pop inoperable. If you use a #6 screw or larger, the plastic will bulge & crack. We’ll see how they hold up, but I’m not sure. I’m definitely using molex connectors on each pop, specifically for this reason.
The sockets in the pops are 555s, so of course the pop LEDs I bought are 44s. I’m not spending another $20 on the right lights, so I modified the pops & added & soldered in a 44 socket.
I think they turned out great! Before & after....now I need to attach the molex connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Apologies if I missed it, but how have these pop rings held up? May grab some for myself. Thanks!

6 months later
#560 1 year ago
Quoted from rockwell:

Apologies if I missed it, but how have these pop rings held up? May grab some for myself. Thanks!

Sorry I haven't looked at this thread in awhile.

As far as swinks pop rings durability, they have held up perfectly since the initial install. Color is still vibrant as well.

I would not hesitate to recommend them, and I'll definitely be installing them when I do my Cheetah restore.

11 months later
#561 45 days ago

At some point I will read this entire thread but just to get a head of myself, I just got a mostly populated Quicksilver playfield and am going to make a full machine with it. I just bought a Wild Fyre as the doner pin. What do I need to be on the look out for? I will need the newer I think SB-300 sound board. What else? And would a different Stern be better/easier to work with? Or WildFyre is fine and dandy?

#562 45 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

At some point I will read this entire thread but just to get a head of myself, I just got a mostly populated Quicksilver playfield and am going to make a full machine with it. I just bought a Wild Fyre as the doner pin. What do I need to be on the look out for? I will need the newer I think SB-300 sound board. What else? And would a different Stern be better/easier to work with? Or WildFyre is fine and dandy?

You will need a full set of MPU-200 boards as well as the sound board. Wild Fyre will give you all of your cabinet parts. You will need to add an extra wire to the cabinet wiring for the test switch. Wild Fyre will have one test switch, or reset switch, but not both. You will need both switches.

The Wild Fyre transformer will work, but for some of us, the larger 16B-6 Quicksilver transformer is a better option. But the 16B-6 transformer is very hard to find and will be expensive if you do; Nevertheless, if you do manage to locate the larger transformer, you seriously need to consider buying it.

You say the play field is mostly populated. What is missing?

#563 45 days ago

Well that depends how faithful you wanna be. You don’t NEED both switches. I don’t bother with the reset switch since finding the dual switch holder bracket is tough and moreover I hate when I accidentally press it.

#564 45 days ago

The audit reset switch is on the MPU board anyway (S33 push button). Having the extra switch at the coin door is just a convenience.

#565 45 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You will need a full set of MPU-200 boards as well as the sound board. Wild Fyre will give you all of your cabinet parts. You will need to add an extra wire to the cabinet wiring for the test switch. Wild Fyre will have one test switch, or reset switch, but not both. You will need both switches.
The Wild Fyre transformer will work, but for some of us, the larger 16B-6 Quicksilver transformer is a better option. But the 16B-6 transformer is very hard to find and will be expensive if you do; Nevertheless, if you do manage to locate the larger transformer, you seriously need to consider buying it.
You say the play field is mostly populated. What is missing?

Thanks Cotton. What makes the other transformer better out of curiosity? I will have to upload some photos, possibly tomorrow but at the very least I need a set of plastics and pop bumper caps. There are a few things missing under the playfield. I think it might be the outhole kicker mech but have to look closer.

Quoted from play_pinball:

Well that depends how faithful you wanna be. You don’t NEED both switches. I don’t bother with the reset switch since finding the dual switch holder bracket is tough and moreover I hate when I accidentally press it.

Quoted from Quench:

The audit reset switch is on the MPU board anyway (S33 push button). Having the extra switch at the coin door is just a convenience.

Ok it sounds like I could probably live without the extra reset switch, thanks guys.

#566 45 days ago

So it is a flipper assembly that I am missing and a bunch of lamp sockets which is no biggie.

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#567 44 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

Thanks Cotton. What makes the other transformer better out of curiosity? I will have to upload some photos, possibly tomorrow but at the very least I need a set of plastics and pop bumper caps. There are a few things missing under the playfield. I think it might be the outhole kicker mech but have to look closer.

More juice to the solenoids. Equals harder hitting flippers and snappier pop bumpers. Some people do not seem to notice the difference. My thinking on this runs along the lines of how demanding you want your pin to play. I like fast and hard, which means steep.

My Nine Ball came to me with the small transformer. The pin played OK. But then I installed the 16B-6 and it just got "bouncier". The flipper hits feel more positive.

My Dragonfist came to me with the smaller 16B-3 transformer. It played OK. I installed the the 16B-6 and Dragonfist turned into a screamer.

For an experiment, I swapped a smaller transformer into my Catacomb. Play action sucked the wind on Catacomb with the small transformer. It took me about 2 minutes of play and I swapped the larger transformer back in.

You can go ahead and build your Quicksilver with the smaller transformer and not know the difference and be perfectly happy. But if you ever get to play one with the larger transformer you might change your thoughts.

gdonovan has a small transformer installed in his Seawitch and it has received lots of public play. I have not heard gdonovan complaining about play action.

#568 44 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

So it is a flipper assembly that I am missing and a bunch of lamp sockets which is no biggie. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's a nice play field. With some elbow grease it should clean up nicely.

.

Mirco is your only option for the Quicksilver plastics, AFAIK.

Pinball Life sells complete flipper assemblies.

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-right-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-left-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html


Beehive pinball used to make play field protectors for Quicksilver. He is sold out. A protector would smooth out the cupped inserts, etc. You could ask if he would make you one.

https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector

Pinside_forum_8026571_9 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_8026571_9 (resized).jpg

For the wiring, IPDB.org has a nice copy of the QS manual.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/1895/Stern_1980_Quicksilver_Manual.pdf

https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Quicksilver&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1895

This is what you will need to fix the lights.

Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 11.06.53 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-02-12 at 11.06.53 AM (resized).jpg

And I will make a shameless plug. I have a very nice reproduction of the Quicksilver owner's manual if you want a copy.

$25.00 plus the shipping. PM me if interested.

#569 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

That's a nice play field. With some elbow grease it should clean up nicely.

.
Mirco is your only option for the Quicksilver plastics, AFAIK.
Pinball Life sells complete flipper assemblies.
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-right-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/full-left-flipper-assembly-for-classic-stern-machines-031980-to-021982.html

Beehive pinball used to make play field protectors for Quicksilver. He is sold out. A protector would smooth out the cupped inserts, etc. You could ask if he would make you one.
https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector
[quoted image]
For the wiring, IPDB.org has a nice copy of the QS manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1895/Stern_1980_Quicksilver_Manual.pdf
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Quicksilver&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1895
This is what you will need to fix the lights.
[quoted image]
And I will make a shameless plug. I have a very nice reproduction of the Quicksilver owner's manual if you want a copy.
$25.00 plus the shipping. PM me if interested.

Thanks Cotton, you are the best! Much appreciated! I forgot that the spinners are missing as well. I'm assuming I can buy standard repros and get some spinner decals. I will keep the manual offer in mind!

#570 44 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

Thanks Cotton, you are the best! Much appreciated! I forgot that the spinners are missing as well. I'm assuming I can buy standard repros and get some spinner decals. I will keep the manual offer in mind!

AFAIK, Marco is your only option now.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=spinner&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=4&view=card&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy

Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.56.41 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.56.41 PM (resized).jpg

I have the green Quicksilver spinner decals if you need any.

#571 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

AFAIK, Marco is your only option now.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=spinner&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=4&view=card&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy
[quoted image]
I have the green Quicksilver spinner decals if you need any.

Amazing! I will let you know if I want to grab the manual and decals from you.

Looks like marco has the plastic set..cheaper than mirco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13C-117-X

#573 44 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

Looks like marco has the plastic set..cheaper than mirco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13C-117-X

These are the best choice - they were made by Pinball Rescue before they closed. You won't find them anywhere else. The graphics are correct on these & the colour match is very close to originals, use this set with an original playfield.

#574 43 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Beehive pinball used to make play field protectors for Quicksilver. He is sold out. A protector would smooth out the cupped inserts, etc. You could ask if he would make you one.

https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector

If you ask about a new protector, let me know? I'd like to get one as well, might make it more worth their while if they know there's more demand...

#575 43 days ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

These are the best choice - they were made by Pinball Rescue before they closed. You won't find them anywhere else. The graphics are correct on these & the colour match is very close to originals, use this set with an original playfield.

Amazing thanks. I will add those to my order!

#576 43 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

AFAIK, Marco is your only option now.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=spinner&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=4&view=card&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy
[quoted image]
I have the green Quicksilver spinner decals if you need any.

What do the green spinner decals look like? Did you custom make them? Looks like the originals are yellow.

#577 43 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

What do the green spinner decals look like? Did you custom make them? Looks like the originals are yellow.

I think I found them. Is this your work cotton?

Pinside_forum_6270425_6 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_6270425_6 (resized).jpg
#578 43 days ago

I think I found them. Is this your work cotton?[quoted image]</blockquote

These are not mine. I will have to get you a picture when I get home.

#579 43 days ago

Ok cool thanks!

#580 43 days ago

See my post # 8250 in the Stern thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/165#post-7507180

I had some decals printed in some clear sticky material. Paint your spinners any color you want. I have the green Quicksilver spinner decals, the red "s" and blue stars decals, and decals for Big Game spinners.

I got a close match on the greenish-yellow spinner paint by mixing some some green and yellow acrylic paint and airbrushed the spinners. and then applied the decals.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
#581 43 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

See my post # 8250 in the Stern thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/165#post-7507180
I had some decals printed in some clear sticky material. Paint your spinners any color you want. I have the green Quicksilver spinner decals, the red "s" and blue stars decals, and decals for Big Game spinners.
I got a close match on the greenish-yellow spinner paint by mixing some some green and yellow acrylic paint and airbrushed the spinners. and then applied the decals. [quoted image]

Awesome! Nice work! Thanks Cotton! I don't have an airbrush and don't really want to paint the spinners if I don't have to so I may explore what other options there are out there. Whoever did the ones that I referred a couple posts above (yellow with the green s), those look awesome and can I buy a set from you?

#582 43 days ago

Okay so far I've read the first three pages of this thread. Incredible work Hoaky Poaky!!!!

My first question is about the location of the transformer. On wildfire the transformer is in the head so should I move it to the cabinet or keep the transformer in the head?

My next question is, I am going from a 6-digit display game to a seven digit display game so will I run into any wiring issues? Will the existing wildfire display connectors work for seven digit displays?

#583 43 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

Awesome! Nice work! Thanks Cotton! I don't have an airbrush and don't really want to paint the spinners if I don't have to so I may explore what other options there are out there. Whoever did the ones that I referred a couple posts above (yellow with the green s), those look awesome and can I buy a set from you?

You have a PM.

#584 42 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Ha! I’ve had that poster for 30 years. Fan favorite!

Hey Hoaky
Do you know where I can get a file to CNC the backbox light panel?

#585 42 days ago

I re-posted one a few years ago in the Quicksilver club thread. The club thread may be a better thread to join up vs HP’s scratch build here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/20#post-5294510

#586 41 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I re-posted one a few years ago in the Quicksilver club thread. The club thread may be a better thread to join up vs HP’s scratch build here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-club-all-welcome/page/20#post-5294510

Thanks I will check that out!!!

#587 35 days ago

Sorry for some reason I wasn't seeing the activity in this thread

I'd suggest reading this thread in it's entirety as it contains answers to many of the build questions you probably have, along with the QS club thread. And that backbox file above should work fine for you. That playfield of yours will clean up nicely I think.

Happy building!

#588 33 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Sorry for some reason I wasn't seeing the activity in this thread
I'd suggest reading this thread in it's entirety as it contains answers to many of the build questions you probably have, along with the QS club thread. And that backbox file above should work fine for you. That playfield of yours will clean up nicely I think.
Happy building!

Awesome thanks! I will do some more reading for sure! I messaged bgresto to get a back glass but I know they are busy so hopefully I hear back soon!

#589 33 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

Awesome thanks! I will do some more reading for sure! I messaged bgresto to get a back glass but I know they are busy so hopefully I hear back soon!

I highly recommend you forget about BGresto & contact Coos by email instead. Far superior product, quicker turnaround times, and actual mirroring available. I wish I had purchased by QS backglass from him in the first place, but I've bought several other since then. High quality & great customer service. No need to put up with BGresto extremely poor communication anymore. Cheers!

https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/Backglasses.html

#590 30 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I highly recommend you forget about BGresto & contact Coos by email instead. Far superior product, quicker turnaround times, and actual mirroring available. I wish I had purchased by QS backglass from him in the first place, but I've bought several other since then. High quality & great customer service. No need to put up with BGresto extremely poor communication anymore. Cheers!
https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/Backglasses.html

Oh shit eh! I actually talked to Steve at bgresto yesterday and placed my order and already paid. My friend will pick up for me at the VFW show and he knocked off $50usd since it was pick up. $275usd was my total. The show is in 8 weeks so I will have it pretty soon I will have a look at coos though for next time, thanks!

Do you know what coos charges?

#591 29 days ago

He charges a little more than that, and usually $100 extra if mirrored. You get dinged on the shipping costs too since he's overseas, but he can fit 2 glasses in one box, so if you can find someone to purchase with, you can split the shipping cost. I think he makes a far superior product. IMO the film on the BGresto glass was so thick that I had to add additional LED strip lighting just to brighten the image. Plus I sent him my money & then didn't get one response for 9 months. One day it just showed up on my porch with no tracking info. I'd rather not deal with that experience again.

#592 29 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

IMO the film on the BGresto glass was so thick that I had to add additional LED strip lighting just to brighten the image.

I have noticed that, as well.

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Plus I sent him my money & then didn't get one response for 9 months.

His communication levels could sure be improved.

#593 27 days ago

I think my Catacomb backglass was from BG and I also recall it being very thick/dark. I like the split shipping idea for coos. Will keep that in mind for sure!

#594 27 days ago
Quoted from Shenanigander:

I think my Catacomb backglass was from BG and I also recall it being very thick/dark. I like the split shipping idea for coos. Will keep that in mind for sure!

There are 2 Catacomb back glasses. BG Resto is reproducing the dark one. Go to pinside market place and look at the Catacombs that have been sold. Most of those have the lighter back glasses which show more detail.

But that film/material BG Resto uses blocks a lot of the back box lighting.

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