(Topic ID: 265203)

QUICKSILVER scratch build: A Detailed Guide

By HoakyPoaky

4 years ago


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#501 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Hard to tell with the glass glare but that playfield looks very restorable.

Full of bad touchups. The 1-2-3-4-5 inserts are so sunk bad that the ball hits the wood edge & jumps like its rolling down a ladder. Various other sunk inserts that change the direction of the ball. Yeah it flips but it plays like garbage at the moment. RT spinner doesn't register, some drop banks don't reset. I thought the coindoor & legs were original from the photos, but someone had lazily spray painted them with silver paint to cover rust & got overspray over the backside parts & wiring of the door. There was even a bottle of isopropyl alcohol inside the cabinet. It was represented a a great playing game that sat in someone's home for last 30 years. It's hardly that.

But the cabinet & head exterior is nice, as well as the original backglass. And all the things I mentioned won't matter when it gets restored with new parts & a new playfield. It's just a crazy title to be on the hunt for. If you do manage to find one after a long search, you're likely going to have to overpay for whatever you can find. No regrets for me though. It's going to be a blast to play once it's restored.

#502 3 years ago

So as I mentioned the other day, I have some issues with some controlled lights & switches not working. The lamps are the first thing to address. I haven't had time to look deeply into it, but I will tonight.

There's 8 controlled lights on J1 & 6 controlled lights on J2 that aren't working, both in the playfield & the backbox. I have all new weebly boards throughout, and I haven't modified the code yet. So after swapping the weebly lamp board with the old lamp board from Meteor, and even an old Bally Embryon lamp board, the bulbs are still not working in any case. So I know it's not the weebly board.

I've also tested the lamp sockets with my 6V tester & it's not a poorly connected bulb. In fact I tested every single bulb for continuity/functionality as I soldered, from the lamp socket to the individual pins on the playfield harness connectors as I went. So I'm pretty confident that the issue isn't on the playfield.

I pulled out the lamp schematics, but I'm having a hard time interpreting them. From what I can see, J1-pin7 & J3-pin6 of the Rectifier board supply power to the Feature Lamp Bus, for the lamp board J1 & J3 connections. But since its a random distribution of bulbs, and since some bulbs on J1 & J2 are working, I don't think the problem lies with the Rectifier board connections.

So I'm guessing I need to check the pins on the wires for each bulb for continuity & proper placement, and then check the connections between the MPU & Lampboard, and then go from there. I should also mention this was a Third Coast Harness throughout.

I also need to make sure it's not something silly, like the dips set to the wrong game.

#503 3 years ago

Well I tested all pin connections on J4 of the lamp board first. Discovered a bad connection from J4-pin7 to J1-pin16 on the MPU. No continuity. So I cut & crimped new contacts on both ends of the wire & presto…. the controlled lamps are now working….

Except the 2 shoot again lamps in the backbox, and the shoot again lamp in the playfield still aren’t working. They are both running off grey-red wires to their respective pins on the lamp board J1 & J2. Good continuity too. But all 3 bulbs share the Q3 transistor on the weebly lamp board.

I again swapped in the old meteor lamp board, just too see if they came on even with the flicker. The playfield shoot again lamp came on, but not the 2 backbox lamps. I’ll have to look at it more tomorrow. It could be a bad Q3 transistor on the weebly?

#504 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

So I cut & crimped new contacts on both ends of the wire & presto….

Good wire, bad crimp(s)?

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

The playfield shoot again lamp came on, but not the 2 backbox lamps.

If the transistor were bad i would think none of them would light. I would check that you are getting proper voltage from the blue wire to the lights and that the plug is well seated for power and the plug for the individual lights.

#505 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Good wire, bad crimp(s)?.

Yes the wire was fine, just bad crimps. Once I put new crimps on both ends it was fine. No big deal. I was going to write you with any harness issues I found once I get it working 100%. I suspect the other issues could be similar. I'll look into it this weekend.

#506 3 years ago

Just a heads up regarding the flippers as we look to be using the same Pinball Life complete assemblies. I used the gap tool under the playfield to eliminate any binding in the mech, but I just realized my right flipper has been dragging the playfield at the top of its stroke! There is now a small scuff in the clear right at the end of the flipper when its fully extended, even though at rest (and through the stroke) it looked to have a small bit of clearance...

Evidently, putting a washer on top of the bushing before inserting the flipper bat is a common trick to avoid this with the early Sterns. One that I obviously missed so I figured I'd bring it up here.

#507 3 years ago

Someone else had mentioned that as well. My RT flipper definitely has less clearance than the LT, so I will look again this weekend before flipping for the first time.

#508 3 years ago

Same shit with my right flipper. I had it set pretty well for a few months after much finagling but it recently needed some love. Now my whole game is on the fritz (see the Classic Stern thread if you haven’t)

I wonder why the right flippers are doing this. Fwiw I used original brackets, not PBL reproductions. Never heard that washer trick. I assume whatever size is comparable to the bushing? Maybe a nylon or petg washer?

#509 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Same shit with my right flipper. I had it set pretty well for a few months after much finagling but it recently needed some love. Now my whole game is on the fritz (see the Classic Stern thread if you haven’t)
I wonder why the right flippers are doing this. Fwiw I used original brackets, not PBL reproductions. Never heard that washer trick. I assume whatever size is comparable to the bushing? Maybe a nylon or petg washer?

Go to the hardware store and get a #14 brass washer. That fits and will lift your flippers up and away from the play field. Use two if you need to.

Or you can buy these at Pinball Life.

https://www.pinballlife.com/nylon-flipper-shaft-spacer.html

If you look closely at different flippers you see that some have tips that lift up when the flipper swings into activated position. And some have tips that bow down when they are activated; These are the ones that eat play fields.

I don't know why a flipper shaft does not always sit perpendicular to the play field. Is it the way the bushing screws into the flipper mounting plate. Or is the flipper mounting plate not bent or formed completely square----or is it the vagaries in thickness of the wood at the flipper locations on the play field.

#510 3 years ago

Ha I can’t believe I never saw those nylon washers before. I’ll have to find something comparable at the hardware store.

Quoted from play_pinball:

Same shit with my right flipper. I had it set pretty well for a few months after much finagling but it recently needed some love. Now my whole game is on the fritz (see the Classic Stern thread if you haven’t)
I wonder why the right flippers are doing this. Fwiw I used original brackets, not PBL reproductions. Never heard that washer trick. I assume whatever size is comparable to the bushing? Maybe a nylon or petg washer?

Yes I saw your video. That’s a bummer. I’m shocked I haven’t had a major problem yet myself.

#511 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Ha I can’t believe I never saw those nylon washers before. I’ll have to find something comparable at the hardware store

I said the same thing. I pour over PBL before submitting an order, even used the search term “classic stern” to grab some things last week. Where the heck were these buried?!

#512 3 years ago

Quick run to Lowes for the washers

Picked up a bunch of the #14 brass & 1/4 inch nylon. They are pretty similar in size. I’ll try them out tomorrow. Thanks for the tips.

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#513 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Where the heck were these buried?!

Under "spacer". Very last item on a long list of items.

#514 3 years ago

Some more flipper adjustments. Dropped the angle just slightly. More lined up with the holes now. Added the #14 brass washer between the flipper & the bushing. Raised 1/16 of an inch so now they def will not scrape the playfield. With these shit short shaft new PL flippers though, there’s not much extra room.

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#515 3 years ago

Which bring me to my next gripe. The PL new flipper bases. The stop is like 1/4 inch too short from the original. So over time will the linkage wear, the parts loosen & move past the stop?

If you are going to manufacture new replacement parts, make them to the exact old specs! Annoying...

So I added a thin nylon washer under the c-clamp to tighten things up slightly. I don’t think the linkage will move past the stop now. Two additional nylon washers would have been too tight.

Before
D5450C4A-8C7D-4670-8357-D348DBE71CF6 (resized).jpegD5450C4A-8C7D-4670-8357-D348DBE71CF6 (resized).jpeg
Past the stop
575975E0-A682-4374-86C3-0ECBD21CD6BA (resized).jpeg575975E0-A682-4374-86C3-0ECBD21CD6BA (resized).jpeg
Fixed
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#516 3 years ago

I thought I was treating myself to a clean and easy path getting full flipper kits for my last project. Think again. In my case, either the flipper shafts were a tad too fat or the bushings a tad too narrow. Either way, the result was slightly sticky flippers. Wound up replacing both the bats and the bushings. Fine now, but not the best experience. Par for the course these days with new parts. The quality control and precision just isn’t there.

#517 3 years ago

Wait until you guys experience the residual magnetism that builds up in the PBL assemblies... unless they've fixed that.

The shorter stroke is a known issue with them as well you have to bend the L shaped piece to tune it.

I only use original stuff at this point re: flipper parts and drops. As you can imagine, it's tough to get good parts.

#518 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I thought I was treating myself to a clean and easy path getting full flipper kits for my last project. Think again. In my case, either the flipper shafts were a tad too fat or the bushings a tad too narrow. Either way, the result was slightly sticky flippers. Wound up replacing both the bats and the bushings. Fine now, but not the best experience. Par for the course these days with new parts. The quality control and precision just isn’t there.

have had that as well, brand new assemblies properly installed was sometime sticking and/or weaker. had to erptty much replace the whole link assembly and it was fine, urg..

Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Which bring me to my next gripe. The PL new flipper bases. The stop is like 1/4 inch too short from the original. So over time will the linkage wear, the parts loosen & move past the stop?

i have had that issue, i think i played with the L bracket that stop the link to make sure it was higher, putting washer between it and the plate maybe? can't quite remember now

#519 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I have had that issue, i think i played with the L bracket that stop the link to make sure it was higher, putting washer between it and the plate maybe? can't quite remember now

Yes that would work as well

#520 3 years ago

So today was the big day! Final testing & problem solving.

After raising the flippers, we needed to figure out why the Shoot again bulbs weren’t working in the backbox & the playfield. Using the logic tester, it was clear that the signal wasn’t going through the Q3 transistor like it should. The Q3 transistor was bad & would need to be replaced. But before doing that, we tried to figure out what caused it to go bad.
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#521 3 years ago

Using the 6V bulb tester, we found that there was a short in one of the backbox shoot again sockets. What caused it? I stapled too close to the socket, and the end of the staple had gone through the MDF & was slightly touching the side of the socket, causing a short. This short caused the transistor to go bad.

Removed the bad staple. Resoldered & replaced the bad transistor. Powered back up & all the lights were working fine. It’s a miracle that I did not have more issues like this.

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Then spent hours adjusting & diagnosing switch issues. Cleaning contacts on the drop assemblies. Basically minor adjustments everywhere. It takes a lot of time to get everything dialed in & playing perfectly.

We also had problems getting the glass & playfield in the cabinet, until we realized that cabinet wasn’t level in the sloped garage, causing it to slightly twist. No wonder I had all those problems! Leveled the game & the glass went right in.

22
#522 3 years ago

Moved it into the game room, installed slochar’s v07 code to the weebly MPU. Now the game counts & stores HSTD for the LT & RT spinners, awards specials for spins, 50K for sweeping the banks, etc etc. The code is great & this thing plays perfectly.

FAST! FAST! FAST! And I even got to light the siren! Probably the best early solid state game IMO. I couldn’t be happier. Hard to believe this project is finally over.

I hope to have some better photos soon, and plan to do a stream at some point to showcase the game & the new code.

Stay tuned!

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#523 3 years ago

We can't applaud you enough for taking on this next level brain surgery in pinball... We've enjoyed watching you and it's great that you've shared so many detours with the community here.

Best thread on pinside last few months, and now I don't know what to do with my pinside time -- got another thread starting?


-mof

PS: We can't wait to see your movie!

#524 3 years ago

awesome to hear that it finished, tested and playing

your game looks stunning, beautiful work

#525 3 years ago

Hell yeah!

#526 3 years ago

I have been learning a lot by reading about your build. Nice work !

#527 3 years ago

and that's a wrap! what's next?

#528 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Which bring me to my next gripe. The PL new flipper bases. The stop is like 1/4 inch too short from the original. So over time will the linkage wear, the parts loosen & move past the stop?
If you are going to manufacture new replacement parts, make them to the exact old specs! Annoying...
So I added a thin nylon washer under the c-clamp to tighten things up slightly. I don’t think the linkage will move past the stop now. Two additional nylon washers would have been too tight.
Before
[quoted image]
Past the stop
[quoted image]
Fixed
[quoted image]

Hoaky, this is your build and your thread. I don’t want to hijack it. May I make an observation about your flipper adjustment and the the PL flipper stop?

#529 3 years ago

Great job Hoaky!! Congrats on reaching the finish line and thank you for the documentation!

#530 3 years ago

Thanks for the compliments everyone! We gave it a good testing this weekend & I really can't find any further issues. Getting all the switches adjusted was more time consuming that I realized. I was mostly just thinking about good contacts, but you also need to adjust tension on the new switches, so that the rollover wires aren't sloppy & everything works efficiently.

My RT 3-bank had an issue where it would reset intermittently, even after cleaning the contacts repeatedly with a business card. The switches on the drops were the only original ones on the game, and they had alot of built up carbon. As a last resort, after using a VERY VERY non-abrasive fine metal file & using VERY VERY lightly, the bank reset issue went away. Now it resets every time. Filing contacts is generally a bad idea, but in this case it worked.

I'd also like to stress what a great idea it is to add lighting to the 4-bank area. That was the best modification I did. Now there's plenty of light in the center of the playfield.

I also tinkered with adding matrix post lights to the 2 posts by the K target & tying them to the K insert build. I wanted those posts to flash when lit for an extra ball, just like the rollovers. But I didn't like the result. These 2 posts by the K target are screw in posts & not secured with a T nut. They are posts that get bashed & I wanted them to be tight and secure. But if you tighten the matrix post lights too much, the plate warps & some of the 4 LEDs will not function. And I didn't like leaving the posts loose. So I ended up removing the post lights. If you plan to use these post lights on a game, only use them on t-nut posts IMO.

#531 3 years ago

QS is such a blast to play though. You are on your toes the entire time. It's fast as hell. I'm sure the Kruzman clearcoat has added to the overall speed of the game. It's like playing on glass. It feels awesome ripping those lit spinners. You can sweep the 4-bank from the LT flipper AND get a bounce-off spinner rip. IDK any other game you can do that on. The sounds are fricking incredible, from pressing the start button all the way to the ball drain. The siren lightshow & the max bonus countdown is incredibly satisfying! Best countdown in pinball IMO. This game is just so much fun. Lots of smiles & high fives from players. QS is the pinnacle of early SS gameplay IMO. It's just the total package from gameplay to art & sounds. I don't think any game deserves a 10 rating, but damn QS comes really close.

Slochar's code also adds a whole new level to the game, by counting & displaying the spinner rips, and giving 100K specials for landing on intervals of 20. These are the same spinner rules adapted from Dragonfist, and I think it adds so much to the game. Everyone watches that spinner counter. You can get an insane rip on the RT spinner, have it rocket through the lane, hit a pop & then bounce back & stop the spinner rip. All this happens so damn fast you can barley process it. With Slochar's code, you can reset the bonus multiplier after every ball. You can get a 50K bonus for sweeping the 4-bank. The spinner high scores are stored as well. Give it a try.

My best spinner rip so far is 60. I honestly thought it would be much higher than that, but it certainly rips. Perhaps some more tweaking down the road. I'm very curious to see other people's spinner high scores. NOT by ripping with your finger, but in-game with the ball. I've heard claims of 100+ spins on other Stern games. I'd like to see proof if it's possible. With this code there's no doubt how high your spinner counts are.

#532 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

and that's a wrap! what's next?

Next is a full shop job on my BSD, which after trading my Ironman, is now the "newest" game I own. It needs a full strip down & mech cleaning. I need to remove the playfield protector, install LEDs thoughout & get it playing like it should. Flipper rebuild, Color DMD, pinsound & speaker upgrade, etc etc. Just want to get it working great & looking sharp.

While I'm doing that, the Cheetah playfield will continue to cure. Once I'm done with BSD, then Cheetah will be after that

#533 3 years ago

The final issue I had was that I noticed the tilt bob was scoring points instead of tilts! Well that needed to be addressed. Turns out I wasn't really paying attention when I wired that section of the cabinet, and there is much confusion with the MPU-200 Stern coin door wiring schematics. It is just full of various errors for many titles, but it was eventually corrected on the Lightning diagram.

In any case, there was a red-green wire on the Third Coast harness that I had connected to the the ball roll tilt. I just assumed it went there. Turns out there is no red-green wire use on QS, because none of the switches are on that strobe. So I disconnected & taped off the red-green wire, and ran a Yellow-red jumper from the cabinet slam switch to the unbanded diode side of the ball roll tilt. Then it was working just fine.

#534 3 years ago

I'm also really liking the Swinks 3D printed pop ring parts. There's lots of good responsive fast ball action in that area. IDK if it's just all the new parts, or because the printed rings are lighter & faster than a metal one. But so far they are working great, and they look great too. Being able to choose your own color is awesome.

Obviously it will take 100s of games to check their durability, but I'm glad I put them on. I'll do the same for Cheetah eventually.

#535 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

The sounds are fricking incredible, from pressing the start button all the way to the ball drain. The siren lightshow & the max bonus countdown is incredibly satisfying! Best countdown in pinball IMO. T

Totally agreed on the max-bonus countdown: Absolutely perfect! In an arcade, everyone would know what you'd done. The first time I remember a great sound-indicator like that was with Meteor, which did the electronic "explosion" noise before and after a max-bonus countdown: always turned heads (at least in 1979 when many machines went still had chimes).

#536 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I'm also really liking the Swinks 3D printed pop ring parts. There's lots of good responsive fast ball action in that area. IDK if it's just all the new parts, or because the printed rings are lighter & faster than a metal one. But so far they are working great, and they look great too. Being able to choose your own color is awesome.
Obviously it will take 100s of games to check their durability, but I'm glad I put them on. I'll do the same for Cheetah eventually.

that is awesome to hear and a relief and I have heard a little quieter as well

#537 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I'm also really liking the Swinks 3D printed pop ring parts. There's lots of good responsive fast ball action in that area. IDK if it's just all the new parts, or because the printed rings are lighter & faster than a metal one. But so far they are working great, and they look great too. Being able to choose your own color is awesome.
Obviously it will take 100s of games to check their durability, but I'm glad I put them on. I'll do the same for Cheetah eventually.

Since your rings are red, I see you went with the "processed versatile plastic" as opposed to the "premium versatile plastic" or the "PA12" rings. I am considering this upgrade for my machine as I feel the action in the pop bumper area could be greatly increased. I am not super concerned with the color but instead want the most durable material that offers the best ball action. I looked for an explanation as to the differences between the three material choices, but didn't see it listed within the information. Could you enlighten me as to the possible gameplay characteristics between the three material options offered? Also, did you make your choice based purely on color since you wanted red? Thanks.

#538 3 years ago
Quoted from Quicksilver1:

Since your rings are red, I see you went with the "processed versatile plastic" as opposed to the "premium versatile plastic" or the "PA12" rings. I am considering this upgrade for my machine as I feel the action in the pop bumper area could be greatly increased. I am not super concerned with the color but instead want the most durable material that offers the best ball action. I looked for an explanation as to the differences between the three material choices, but didn't see it listed within the information. Could you enlighten me as to the possible gameplay characteristics between the three material options offered? Also, did you make your choice based purely on color since you wanted red? Thanks.

yes Shapeways can be a little confusing so hopefully this explanation helps:

the materials and how the products are made are determined by the following:
- "processed versatile plastic" , "premium versatile plastic" and "PA12" - is all solid nylon plastic
- "processed versatile plastic" , "premium versatile plastic" is laser bound nylon particles and very strong
- "PA12" is chemical bound nylon particles and very strong but a fraction more detail

now the name also determines the finish is
- "processed versatile plastic" - freshly made components and a light tumble and colour dyed - full colour range
- "premium versatile plastic" - freshly made components and a long tumble (12-24hrs) to get a little smoother - colour is restricted to white and black
- "PA12" - freshly made and ready for colour dye and send out - no tumbling and very nice finish - colour is just a grey blend or black (this black is cheaper than the premium versatile black and looks better as well).

hope that helps and for the pop rings unless you want grey or black the "process versatile plastic" is perfect for this application.

I only open up options as when I don't people want the other so hard to please everyone.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksreproduction&sort=newest

1 month later
#539 3 years ago

We are going to be streaming this beautiful game this coming Friday July 9th at 7:00 pm PDT. It will be on Twitch so hopefully you all can get a peak at what this game plays like (Spoiler: Great!)...
https://www.twitch.tv/renopinball
Thanks, Jim

#540 3 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

We are going to be streaming this beautiful game this coming Friday July 9th at 7:00 pm PDT. It will be on Twitch so hopefully you all can get a peak at what this game plays like (Spoiler: Great!)...
https://www.twitch.tv/renopinball
Thanks, Jim

Ha I was just going to post something about the stream & I see you beat me to it!

Yes we will be streaming my restored scratch-built Quicksilver tonight July 9th on Twitch at 7pm PST. Hopefully it plays like it should or I'll be really embarrassed. haha No issues yet, so fingers crossed!

More importantly, I've also installed the latest v07 version of the slochar code, which does the spinner rip counts, spinner specials, spinner high scores, 50K bonus for 4-bank sweeps, etc. So if you are interested in seeing what this code is like, or may be thinking about installing on your Quicksilver, please tune in!

https://www.twitch.tv/renopinball

#541 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

More importantly, I've also installed the latest v07 version of the slochar code, which does the spinner rip counts, spinner specials, spinner high scores, 50K bonus for 4-bank sweeps, etc. So if you are interested in seeing what this code is like, or may be thinking about installing on your Quicksilver, please tune in!

I'm interested since I sold my QS years ago so I haven't seen the code in person yet!

Are you going to stream long as I won't be home until 45 minutes after you start and want to check part of it out... if not it'll be archived for a bit?

I'm pretty good at spotting bugs in my own code even if the player isn't.

#542 3 years ago

Slochar, we should streaming for about 3 hours.

Thanks, Jim

#543 3 years ago

Spend the first hour on the original software and pop the roms in after then
j/k

On the games that the spinner counter has been added to it's ridiculous how much I don't care about the score I just want to see the spinner count up.

It's not as fun when it counts as score, either like on my Firepower, there's just something about 2 digits ripping up that's fascinating.

#544 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Spend the first hour on the original software and pop the roms in after then
j/k
On the games that the spinner counter has been added to it's ridiculous how much I don't care about the score I just want to see the spinner count up.
It's not as fun when it counts as score, either like on my Firepower, there's just something about 2 digits ripping up that's fascinating.

Hey Slochar, can you offer any further info on the code? Are you making it available to the general public. I have a QS and am looking forward to watching the stream and maybe trying it myself.

#545 3 years ago

It's been available on public beta the entire time
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-spinner-counter

the only thing I'd change is to make the spinner timeout longer based on the stream

#546 3 years ago

Here's the link to the stream we did that shows Slochar's code in action.

Quoted from slochar:

the only thing I'd change is to make the spinner timeout longer based on the stream

I agree with this. Just slightly extend the time & I think it will be perfect.

With that said this project is officially done

I hope this thread was able to provide help to others attempting a QS conversion. Keep an eye out for my next build in the near future!

#547 3 years ago

Looks great! Now I'm having to reconsider whether I want to use my donor Meteor to build a QS instead of a Star Gazer...I guess I will have to see what happens with the availability of the SG playfields.

#548 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Just slightly extend the time & I think it will be perfect.

I posted longer timeout during the broadcast at:
https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm
4D timeout named one.
https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm/QS-4DTIMEOUT.zip?attredirects=0&d=1
If that's long enough I'll rename it v8 and reupload for consistency with earlier naming.

#549 3 years ago

Awesome. I'll give it a try as soon as I can get it burned. How much longer did you extend the time?

#550 3 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Awesome. I'll give it a try as soon as I can get it burned. How much longer did you extend the time?

about 70%

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