(Topic ID: 171771)

My 1972 Honey Blows Backbox Bulbs

By Watervillain

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

Williams Honey backbox bulbs twinkled while playing and then went out. The 6V and 24V fuses also blew. Slowly but surely, and I don't know why, the fuses have stopped blowing but the backbox bulbs blow as soon as I press the left flipper to turn on the lights. The transformer seems ok reading 6.7V and 29.8V when measured with the common lug on the 6V and 24V circuit. The rectifier reads .459 and .486 from the pos to AC and the neg to AC. When hooked up to the ground at the on/off switch under the playfield, I read 10V to the playfield lights and when testing the backbox, I get 16.5V. I have attached a pic of the Jones connector in the backbox showing scorch marks.

Any thoughts on the blowing issue? ThanksIMG_20161023_080601898 (resized).jpgIMG_20161023_080601898 (resized).jpg

#3 7 years ago

So are you saying that bulbs blow but the fuse is intact when you press the left flipper?

Sounds like maybe high voltage is shorted to your GI circuit. Pull the high voltage fuse and see if it still happens.

#4 7 years ago

When I pull the high voltage fuse (24V) nothing illuminates. When I put it back, it blows along with a bulb when I press the left flipper. Thank you for your interest.

#5 7 years ago

Long shot...the cloth insulation on the jones plug looks pulled back. Make sure that wire isn't touching anything else on the jones plug.

#6 7 years ago

I've suspected that somewhere on that circuit something is touching somewhere. I've traced as much as I can without separating the bundles of wiring, but that may be my next step. I will also move the wiring to the next plug over on the connection.

#7 7 years ago

Your 24V line is touching your 6V line and over-powering your bulbs and blowing them out. The game will not illuminate without the 24V fuse in because Williams machines of the period use the left flipper button to activate the hold relay which in turn provides power to the rest of the game and lights up the lights. You can press the hold relay in manually, do this with the 24V fuse out and the 6V fuse in. I forget if that same relay activates the lights or if it's a combination of that and the tilt relay.

Watch your hands on the backbox lights line just incase it's somehow sending 120V through them, but I doubt that.

Is it only blowing one bulb or all of the backbox lights?

#8 7 years ago

I repaired a game for someone a while ago that had the same issue.
Ended up being a wire in the cabinet with worn insulation that was shorting against one of the stepper units in the bottom. Very hard to find because it would move just a fraction when I raised and lowered the playfield.
I ended up turning the lights off in the room and saw the wire arc as I turned the game on and the fuse blew.

#9 7 years ago

All righty then, let's take it from the top:With fuses in place and all wires connected, when the left flipper is pressed, there is a large spark in the lock relay where the GY wire from the transformer closes up against a BrY wire that leads to the 6A fuse, which blows.

The brown wire on the other side of the 6A fuse goes to the Jones connector in the back box(among other places). If that connection is broken, the fuses do not blow and the game can be played but without backbox lighting.

Most of the lights in the back box have blown. One of the exceptions is the player up light for #1. I'm out of bulbs now and will have to scavenge off my other machines until I can get more.

It does sound like a 24V line is crossing the Brown wire somewhere and overpowering the lights.

I may end up desoldering a whole bunch of connections to find the point where the two voltages meet unless someone knows a simpler way to track it down.

Again, thanks for your interest and help.

#10 7 years ago

Otaku it seems like you have the correct diagnosis of the problem. With the 24 volt fuse in and the 6 volt fuses out, I read 37 VAC on the load (right) side of the fuses. I read 37 VAC on the upper 6V fuse holder when using the return white wire at the power connection to get the reading. I get 9 VAC on the lower 6V fuse.

I have a Snickers Bar because I don't think I'm going anywhere for a while.

Any advice in trying to track the cross connection?

IMG_20161025_202247 (resized).jpgIMG_20161025_202247 (resized).jpg

#11 7 years ago

So with the jones connector unplugged from back box the fuse does not blow? If so it seems problem is in the back box. Closely examine the gi lines for any touching to other wires. Hopefully an easy find.

#12 7 years ago

I've looked but just cannot find the problem. I tried hooking up my meter for continuity between the higher voltage and the gi lines in the backbox only by disconnecting all wires from the playfield wiring. The shrill sound of the multimeter continued while I wiggled, pulled, pushed and rearranged all the wires in the backbox but didn't get even the slightest interruption. Might as well get another Snicker's Bar.

#13 7 years ago

I have to go to work, but will post pics later. It's not what anybody exactly thought.

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from Watervillain:

With the 24 volt fuse in and the 6 volt fuses out, I read 37 VAC on the load (right) side of the fuses.

If you are reading from "common/return" white wire on transformer, to any fuse, except the 110volt fuse, you should be readin the voltage listed on the fuse box. are you readin this with the back box unplugged? or plugged in?
if back box is unplugged, and you get high voltage at the fuse, you have a short on the bottom board.

Quoted from Watervillain:I tried hooking up my meter for continuity between the higher voltage and the gi lines in the backbox only by disconnecting all wires from the playfield wiring. The shrill sound of the multimeter continued

problem... you cannot test continuity with the power on. the beeping is the meter tryin to tell you you cant do that.

Quoted from Watervillain:

I read 37 VAC on the upper 6V fuse holder when using the return white wire at the power connection to get the reading.

see the problem? 37v on a 6v line? either you got a short, or you are not testing between the 6v lug, and RETURN.
again, back box in or out of circuit?
if the backbox is out, and you get high volts on 6v fuse, then you got a short on bottom sendin power to lights.
if high volts is only read when back box plugged in, then short is in back box. you will need to follow the wires from the jones plug, through the back box, and back to the jones plug.

#15 7 years ago

Awaiting the explanation of the problem...

#16 7 years ago

Lots of times there is a short on the credit wheel by "overturning" it for free play.
When the wheel tries to reset it can cause a short between the 6 V contact of the credit light and the 24 V of the end switch on the other side.
Giving a lot of light for a brief second, blowing two fuses (24 V and 6 V for backbox).
Happens quite often, while setting a game on free play is sooo easy...

#17 7 years ago

Wizardblom gets the prize!! The credit wheel overturned until one of the leaves was bent into the high power. See the picture. This was a tough find.

Thank you all for your help, your interest, and your comments.

leaf (resized).jpgleaf (resized).jpg

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