Weird Al's Museum of Natural Hilarity
Multimorphic, 2022Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Got another game in on weird al after the support showed me how to raise my ramp better. Switching over to Heist for the week tomorrow. Did you guys notice Kevorkian has lost the most patients?
[quoted image]
I find it entertaining that Dr. Rumack is on the list.
Quoted from SKWilson:I find it entertaining that Dr. Rumack is on the list.
Surely you can't be serious?
Quoted from P1nhead:Surely you can't be serious?
But that’s not important right now…
Quoted from P1nhead:Surely you can't be serious?
I am serious, and don't call me Shirley.
Quoted from BradLinden:#1431 invoice paid! (Day one, minute one order)
Whoo 1887 is feeling really far away lol… 
I modified my flipper boxes to be two stage flippers. Feels like a standard pinball machine now. I'll report back with impressions after playing with them a bit. First thing I noticed is the 'meal ticket' switching sides.
Quoted from Jvspin:I modified my flipper boxes to be two stage flippers. Feels like a standard pinball machine now. I'll report back with impressions after playing with them a bit. First thing I noticed is the 'meal ticket' switching sides.
More info please!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:More info please!
Not a lot of play time in but so far I like it. Should make the game more approachable to others since the top playfield flipper is also controlled by the lower buttons now. Don't know if this will cause excessive wear but I think for my home environment it should be fine. I may add a switch to go back to 'as designed' if needed.
Here are the details to the mod (soldering required). Components were parts I had lying around (except for the nylon washers).
Photos
Image9122229940359174403 (resized).jpg
Image4161454165697950148 (resized).jpg
Image7579842927736599882 (resized).jpg
Notes:
a) Long blades on top and middle.
b) Black wire on center blade so it makes good contact with either switch.
c) Red wire on top blade.
d) Gold contacts facing each other for top and middle blades (lower flipper)
e) Bottom blade connected with wire to White button blade with white wire.
f) Add spacer to bottom of other switches to match the height of the red switch.
g) Double sided tape or adhesive to add nylon washer to button board.
h) The modified box extends slightly into the cabinet.
i) No adjustment of the blades was needed and the amount of separation between the stages seems good.
*The backside of the gold contact on the middle blade making contact with the lower blade's contact is not ideal, but wanted to give the two stage flipper a try before modifying or buying a part like below.
two contact leaf (resized).png
Parts
1) 2x long blade from new slingshot switch to add the second stage switch
2) 2x spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to match white and yellow switch heights to red switch height.
3) 2x very thin spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to cover added blade (reduces nut height)
3) 6x 1.5mm x 8.2mm (OD) as measured, nylon washers to account for additional switch heights when mounting switch board to button box.
4) 2x short wires
Time: about 1hr for the first box to figure things out, 20 minutes for the second box.
Quoted from BradLinden:#1431 invoice paid! (Day one, minute one order)
Got the e-mail for #1413 yesterday.
Quoted from Jvspin:Not a lot of play time in but so far I like it. Should make the game more approachable to others since the top playfield flipper is also controlled by the lower buttons now. Don't know if this will cause excessive wear but I think for my home environment it should be fine. I may add a switch to go back to 'as designed' if needed.
Here are the details to the mod (soldering required). Components were parts I had lying around (except for the nylon washers).
Photos
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Notes:
a) Long blades on top and middle.
b) Black wire on center blade so it makes good contact with either switch.
c) Red wire on top blade.
d) Gold contacts facing each other for top and middle blades (lower flipper)
e) Bottom blade connected with wire to White button blade with white wire.
f) Add spacer to bottom of other switches to match the height of the red switch.
g) Double sided tape or adhesive to add nylon washer to button board.
h) The modified box extends slightly into the cabinet.
i) No adjustment of the blades was needed and the amount of separation between the stages seems good.
*The backside of the gold contact on the middle blade making contact with the lower blade's contact is not ideal, but wanted to give the two stage flipper a try before modifying or buying a part like below.
[quoted image]
Parts
1) 2x long blade from new slingshot switch to add the second stage switch
2) 2x spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to match white and yellow switch heights to red switch height.
3) 2x very thin spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to cover added blade (reduces nut height)
3) 6x 1.5mm x 8.2mm (OD) as measured, nylon washers to account for additional switch heights when mounting switch board to button box.
4) 2x short wires
Time: about 1hr for the first box to figure things out, 20 minutes for the second box.
Well shoot, that’s pretty awesome. Thanks for the detailed write up and photos!
Quoted from Jvspin:Not a lot of play time in but so far I like it. Should make the game more approachable to others since the top playfield flipper is also controlled by the lower buttons now. Don't know if this will cause excessive wear but I think for my home environment it should be fine. I may add a switch to go back to 'as designed' if needed.
Here are the details to the mod (soldering required). Components were parts I had lying around (except for the nylon washers).
Photos
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Notes:
a) Long blades on top and middle.
b) Black wire on center blade so it makes good contact with either switch.
c) Red wire on top blade.
d) Gold contacts facing each other for top and middle blades (lower flipper)
e) Bottom blade connected with wire to White button blade with white wire.
f) Add spacer to bottom of other switches to match the height of the red switch.
g) Double sided tape or adhesive to add nylon washer to button board.
h) The modified box extends slightly into the cabinet.
i) No adjustment of the blades was needed and the amount of separation between the stages seems good.
*The backside of the gold contact on the middle blade making contact with the lower blade's contact is not ideal, but wanted to give the two stage flipper a try before modifying or buying a part like below.
[quoted image]
Parts
1) 2x long blade from new slingshot switch to add the second stage switch
2) 2x spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to match white and yellow switch heights to red switch height.
3) 2x very thin spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to cover added blade (reduces nut height)
3) 6x 1.5mm x 8.2mm (OD) as measured, nylon washers to account for additional switch heights when mounting switch board to button box.
4) 2x short wires
Time: about 1hr for the first box to figure things out, 20 minutes for the second box.
That is a very nice write-up. That is a much more elegant solution than my initial idea which includes a popsicle stick in a hot glue gun. I
Eh. Less time, no soldering. 2 minutes, tops. 
16868839811012233235419084205744 (resized).jpgInvoice #1402.
Got the email that machine had shipped on Tuesday, got delivery scheduled for next Wednesday.
Hell yeah!
Total time was 16 months from order 2/28/22) to delivery (6/21/23).
Later,
EV
Quoted from EchoVictor:Invoice #1402.
Got the email that machine had shipped on Tuesday, got delivery scheduled for next Wednesday.
Hell yeah!
Total time was 16 months from order 2/28/22) to delivery (6/21/23).
Later,
EV
You'll love it!
Quoted from Jvspin:Not a lot of play time in but so far I like it. Should make the game more approachable to others since the top playfield flipper is also controlled by the lower buttons now. Don't know if this will cause excessive wear but I think for my home environment it should be fine. I may add a switch to go back to 'as designed' if needed.
Here are the details to the mod (soldering required). Components were parts I had lying around (except for the nylon washers).
Photos
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Notes:
a) Long blades on top and middle.
b) Black wire on center blade so it makes good contact with either switch.
c) Red wire on top blade.
d) Gold contacts facing each other for top and middle blades (lower flipper)
e) Bottom blade connected with wire to White button blade with white wire.
f) Add spacer to bottom of other switches to match the height of the red switch.
g) Double sided tape or adhesive to add nylon washer to button board.
h) The modified box extends slightly into the cabinet.
i) No adjustment of the blades was needed and the amount of separation between the stages seems good.
*The backside of the gold contact on the middle blade making contact with the lower blade's contact is not ideal, but wanted to give the two stage flipper a try before modifying or buying a part like below.
[quoted image]
Parts
1) 2x long blade from new slingshot switch to add the second stage switch
2) 2x spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to match white and yellow switch heights to red switch height.
3) 2x very thin spacer scavenged from old leaf switches to cover added blade (reduces nut height)
3) 6x 1.5mm x 8.2mm (OD) as measured, nylon washers to account for additional switch heights when mounting switch board to button box.
4) 2x short wires
Time: about 1hr for the first box to figure things out, 20 minutes for the second box.
It's... An extra button...
Play the Shadow for practice if you need to.
Quoted from EchoVictor:Invoice #1402.
Got the email that machine had shipped on Tuesday, got delivery scheduled for next Wednesday.
Hell yeah!
Total time was 16 months from order 2/28/22) to delivery (6/21/23).
Later,
EV
Congrats. I have invoice #1381 and received request to full pay, I paid June 1st. I added Final Resistance to my order, which will ship late this after others of course. I expect to hear on shipping in a week or two, exciting times.
Received shipment notice from Sarah this morning. My daughter did a happy dance with me. 
Will post pic and impressions once up and running.
Quoted from Polypin:Received shipment notice from Sarah this morning. My daughter did a happy dance with me. Will post pic and impressions once up and running.
Congrats! I’m #1406 and paid in full about 3 weeks ago. Waiting for shipment notification.
Quoted from Sjsilver:We discussed this stuff a lot when designing the rules. Ultimately it came down to how much complexity do you throw into the game (stop the game, introduce another choice screen and timer) and more things to slow down the game. While I agree that is is a bummer when you accidentally hit the shot and you get kicked out of a mode you didn't want to end early, we had to have a way of letting players exit 3 minute plus song modes after a certain success threshold was met in case they wanted to move on, so it is a necessary evil. Plus we figured that having the exit gated by the drop target gave the player at least one oopsie.
Also, as the guy who dreamed up the police car passes in Heist, I am kinda a mean bastard who loves negative shots, and I find all of your tears to be a salty, tasty treat! Yum yum! I am like the Anti-Steve Ritchie. Play Worse! I love it!
Now I feel like going and rewatching KevInBuffalo miss the crosstown a million times. Soo good!
I have to agree. This is one of the reasons alien poker is one of my favorite games. Bummer shots, punish those who play slop.
Someone posted this earlier and I'd like to know: How many of your Weird Als are capable of making the spiral shot this well? The BEST shot I've pulled off so far is a "It barely made it, yay!" shot. Maybe with 5% momentum left. When I first watched the ball blast up the spiral ramp this in the video my eyes bulge in disbelief.
https://clips.twitch.tv/PoorTameLampTBCheesePull-fbi74Ggl64mqKEoB
Quoted from arcyallen: How many of your Weird Als are capable of making the spiral shot this well?
Once I adjusted the position of the ramp so the ball flowed smoothly up the beginning portion of the ramp that went up and down, I made it more often and it was fast.
However I still need to get a clean shot or it will limp up the ramp and fall back down a lot.
Quoted from mbelofsky:Once I adjusted the position of the ramp so the ball flowed smoothly up the beginning portion of the ramp that went up and down, I made it more often and it was fast.
However I still need to get a clean shot or it will limp up the ramp and fall back down a lot.
Mine came from the factory with the ramp meeting the spiral a little high, so I lowered it to make it as flush as possible with no bump. It didn't make a difference for me.
What is your playfield pitch set to? Multimorphic recommends leg levelers all the way in, then just adjusted for level left to right.
Quoted from arcyallen:Mine came from the factory with the ramp meeting the spiral a little high, so I lowered it to make it as flush as possible with no bump. It didn't make a difference for me.
The transition between the ball guides where the Al module meets the upper left flipper mech makes a huge difference try to get it flush as possible
IMG_8331 (resized).jpegQuoted from Exgametrader:The transition between the ball guides where the Al module meets the upper left flipper mech makes a huge difference try to get it flush as possible
[quoted image]
After a LOT of fussing those are 100% flush.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:What is your playfield pitch set to? Multimorphic recommends leg levelers all the way in, then just adjusted for level left to right.
That may work for a perfectly level floor, which mine is not. Which is why we have leg levelers! It's spot on side to side, and at a 6.7 degree pitch.
Quoted from arcyallen:Someone posted this earlier and I'd like to know: How many of your Weird Als are capable of making the spiral shot this well? The BEST shot I've pulled off so far is a "It barely made it, yay!" shot. Maybe with 5% momentum left. When I first watched the ball blast up the spiral ramp this in the video my eyes bulge in disbelief.
https://clips.twitch.tv/PoorTameLampTBCheesePull-fbi74Ggl64mqKEoB
I can hit it a couple times a game usually. Sometimes I can’t hit the broad side of a barn. Sometimes it does roll back down, which really sucks. I’ve had it go ALL the way up and into the upper area, only to (I think) hit something and roll back down. But anyway usually it’s pretty good at making it up there
Quoted from arcyallen:Someone posted this earlier and I'd like to know: How many of your Weird Als are capable of making the spiral shot this well? The BEST shot I've pulled off so far is a "It barely made it, yay!" shot. Maybe with 5% momentum left. When I first watched the ball blast up the spiral ramp this in the video my eyes bulge in disbelief.
https://clips.twitch.tv/PoorTameLampTBCheesePull-fbi74Ggl64mqKEoB
I can blast it up the spiral ramp on the semi-regular, several times a (5 ball) game. Ramp wise, I haven't made any adjustments or changes to the settings.
I'm a crap player, which is why all my games are set to 5 ball.
- Mark
P.S. A new annoyance is that the ball sometimes comes to rest at the top of the spiral ramp. I can't see the ball as it's behind some signage, but the ball search always dislodges it.
make sure your spiral ramp exit (at the top) is set right. Someone had it before, where the platform was actually on top of the wire spiral. Made it impossible for the ball to go all the way up.
I posted this in the "What did you bring home thread" but felt it appropriate it to share here as well, P3 and Weird Al are now in the house. Had to do a little dialing in, but impressed with the quality and design of the system and game thus far.
arcyallen, regarding the spiral ramp shot, like others have said, should be able to shoot up the ramp at decent speed. I've done it several times already in less than 24 hours in the house. Hope you get it dialed in well soon.
PXL_20230704_040222089 (resized).jpgQuestion - when adjusting the topper lightening in the settings, do people see immediate change in values applied? I turned my topper down in the settings but saw no change, so adjusted to off, no change. Only after a few power cycles (over various play sessions) did the settings take hold and now the topper lighting is off.
This might be better in the general P3 thread, but since I only have Weird Al currently, I don't know if it is a general thing or specific to this module. Thanks for your help.
Quoted from Polypin:Question - when adjusting the topper lightening in the settings, do people see immediate change in values applied? I turned my topper down in the settings but saw no change, so adjusted to off, no change. Only after a few power cycles (over various play sessions) did the settings take hold and now the topper lighting is off.
This might be better in the general P3 thread, but since I only have Weird Al currently, I don't know if it is a general thing or specific to this module. Thanks for your help.
It doesn't work. It's noted in the support documentation on MM's support site. They state that it will be fixed in a future update.
Here's what it states in the topper section of the document:
Functionality
The topper consists of three LED segments to light up the front plastic, the accordion mechanism, and the bust of Weird Al. There are brightness settings for these three LED features, but currently they do not actually lower the brightness. This will be updated in the next software update.
Thank you much. Given it did turn off after a cycle, I'm assuming the dimming feature and immediate adjustment are not implemented. Regardless, great game!
Random Friday 'did you know':
Did you know you can change the translite image that's displayed on the backbox LCD for WAMONH in both the Launcher app (app carousel) and in WAMONH attract mode? Standard Edition folks can choose between versions with and without the WAMONH logo. Limited Edition folks can choose between those and also the LE versions with and without (well, actually just a very small) logo.
The main reason for these options is to avoid logo overload for those of you with WAMONH speaker panels and/or toppers, both of which also have the logo.
The settings are independent per app:
Launcher: Settings -> General -> App Images
WAMONH: Settings -> General -> Translite Images
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com
Quoted from gstellenberg:Random Friday 'did you know':
Did you know you can change the translite image that's displayed on the backbox LCD for WAMONH in both the Launcher app (app carousel) and in WAMONH attract mode? Standard Edition folks can choose between versions with and without the WAMONH logo. Limited Edition folks can choose between those and also the LE versions with and without (well, actually just a very small) logo.
The main reason for these options is to avoid logo overload for those of you with WAMONH speaker panels and/or toppers, both of which also have the logo.
The settings are independent per app:
Launcher: Settings -> General -> App Images
WAMONH: Settings -> General -> Translite Images
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com
Thanks! Yes I DID know in this case!! But gstellenberg, did YOU know that we are now in July? Know what that means for us MM fan boys?
We can FINALly stop RESISTing opening our wallets ANd send you some Cash in Exchange for something awesome 
Quoted from MrMikeman:But gstellenberg, did YOU know that we are now in July?
Thanks for that. I'm so deep in supply chain management (and a few dozen other tasks) every day that I forgot which month it is! Maybe it's FINALly time I RESIST taking on so mANy inCompletE tasks.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:After 16 months and 1 day, it's finally here! The module on top is Heist.
[quoted image]
I understand trying to bundle it together, but it seems odd to ship it stacked like that. Having to pull a large heavy box down from a large heavy box that's already sitting up on a pallet...yeah, just seems odd. But congrats!
Quoted from arcyallen:Having to pull a large heavy box down from a large heavy box that's already sitting up on a pallet...yeah, just seems odd. But congrats!
Not really odd. It's how Multimorphic does it.
It also has the side benefit of preventing the *orns from stacking something on top of the machine box in a warehouse and/or truck while shipping. (Think of all that flat space they see open for stacking....)
The topper for my WAMONH LE is making the game unplayable- I can't see the playfield LCD with the reflection of my ceiling. I searched in here and someone said that Multimorphic support is aware of the bug that the topper brightness adjustments don't do anything.
I haven't tried to track down the connection but I am hoping there is a single plug I can unplug to kill the topper for now - has anyone done that?
brighttopper (resized).jpgQuoted from Jay_Killjoy:I haven't tried to track down the connection but I am hoping there is a single plug I can unplug to kill the topper for now - has anyone done that?
If you lower the speaker panel in the backbox, there is a small breakout board directly behind it. [J32] feeds the signals to the LEDs on the topper and can be removed to disable the LEDs.
WAMONH_Topper_LEDs (resized).PNGPerfect! Thank you. tjw998
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:The topper for my WAMONH LE is making the game unplayable- I can't see the playfield LCD with the reflection of my ceiling. I searched in here and someone said that Multimorphic support is aware of the bug that the topper brightness adjustments don't do anything.
I haven't tried to track down the connection but I am hoping there is a single plug I can unplug to kill the topper for now - has anyone done that?[quoted image]
Nice lineup. Old (DMD old), new and Foo
Quoted from Max_Badazz:Nice lineup. Old (DMD old), new and Foo
Thanks! I rotate a couple more games that I keep at my friends house as well. Dialed In & Batman 66. Also have Heist and Final Resistance on order!
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Detroit, MI