Upper flippers don't have EOS switches on the P3. The original lower flippers didn't have EOS switches either. Newer P3 machines added EOS switches on the lower flippers and older P3 machines can be upgraded with the flipper upgrade kit.

Sorry, I didn't phrase my question very well...

Where there any traditional pinball machines where the flipper button triggered the lower flipper, then the lower flipper's EOS switch both cut power to the lower flipper's primary coil and triggered an upper flipper?

I have never seen that. The EOS works locally at the flipper mech. The delay on a dual-blade flipper switch is only the time it takes for the button to push inward an extra 2mm.

Williams did this for a period of time. Games like Jungle Lord/System 7-era. Might have extended a bit earlier and/or later, I don't recall at the moment.

You can see a description of this on page 4 of the manual on IPDB "Lower Flippers Hotter"
(meaning harder hitting) - https://www.ipdb.org/files/1338/Williams_1981_Jungle_Lord_Schematic_Diagrams_paginated_some_with_red_lining.pdf

I couldn't find a good picture. I've worked on a good chunk of the games from this era of Williams, so came to mind first. Pretty sure it was just a Williams solid state thing, I can't think of examples in the EM era or from other manufacturers at the moment, but I'm probably forgetting something.

--Edit-- I should say there were obvious problems with this design. First, you have to run coil 'hot/drive' power right beside the cutoff for high power. Next, you are totally reliant on the switch which can easily come out of adjustment as the only way to move those upper flippers. Finally, the solution Williams came up with as a way to prevent the first problem from being 'as big' of a problem is to use a nylon/plastic spacer instead of traditional Fische paper as an insulator. This would often be lubricated by operators, which didn't interact well with the nylon or plastic that they used, and caused it to stick, which would in turn cause the lower flippers to burn because the EOS couldn't move... but on paper it made a lot of sense. You have high power right there at the flipper coil! Less wiring through the cabinet. I'm sure it held up very well in internal tests, and I also have the benefit of hindsight from seeing lots of implementations throughout the years. What I think of as obvious, I'm certain, was not obvious at the time.

many early SS games have a double stack EOS that activate the upper flippers. I have the early SS Iron Maiden, and they have EOS switches on the lower flippers just for that purpose.

When I originally got the P3, Weird Al was installed. I played it a lot and liked it. Received two other play fields. I put in CL but need to fix the display. I put in Heist. I like Heist and have been playing it. This weekend, I swapped back to Weird Al and realized how much I enjoy it. (I did need to recalibrate camera center.)

This has been the game I keep pressing start more than any other game I have ever owned. Now that I have both buttons mastered, I use my index finger on the white (top flippers) button and my ring finger on the red (lower flippers) button. The spiral ramp is challenging but I know when I get a clean shot it will go up nicely. I love getting the ball into the top left area and hitting the ball hard through the loop, keeping the flipper up so ball goes smoothly into the camera. I could go on and on. But hands down the best game I ever owned.

I've been surprised by how often I hit the spiral ramp skillshot after honing my skills in on it over time.

I got spiral ramp down pretty good, it's the right ramp that is so tough to hit for me!

Good thing that magnetic assist has our backs!

I also got my P3 NIB as a Weird Al. I now have Heist and Drained modules too. Any time I put in a module my wife loses her shit lol. In her mind the P3 is not a P3 but a Weird Al. Period. "Why the hell am I making our Weird Al into something else" is her complaint..

I have all modules on order so she better get used to it LOL. I may have to buy a second base machine that I can leave in the Weird Al config all the time haha

Give it time, your Wife and Weird Al are still in their honeymoon phase. ;-p

Just put Al back in my p3 after a few months,I hope they can do a retheme .the layout is just about the coolest thing I have ever seen.

If anyone is looking for just a Weird Al module (LE version), I'm picking up another P3 and don't need the extra module. Pm me if interested. I should have it Thursday and will list it in the Marketplace if its still available.

You don't like the theme as-is?

I think he is saying it’s too good of a layout for someone not to build on. I agree completely. I’d also be down for some DLC. 6 new tracks/modes from Weird Al…I’m sure a majority of us would be all for it.

Oh, OK. I can see that perspective as well. I was just reading it the other way.

How do you get it to register coop? I put two people on and enabled team game but we weren’t playing the same score

You have to be on the same profile to be a team, then enable team play.

So I select the same name twice? Is that possible?

I selected my profile, then I selected my daughters, after that I went and enabled team game. It said team game but our scoring and progress wasn’t together

Yes. Same profile twice. That’s the only way it works.

Ok, thanks. I’ll try that tomorrow

Yeah I’ve seen others setup a “kids” profile and then the kids all choose that, then Dad or Mom can use just their own profile. You can also give handicaps or advantages to each profile and not have to manually adjust settings like other machines.

Team play will also put all non-profile players on the same team. So if players are labeled as "Player 1" and "Player 2" (because those players didn't select a profile), they'll be on the same team.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

Thanks, that’s good to know. My daughter and I have been playing weird Al together a lot and sometimes my wife and son will come in for a game or two. I’ll probably end up creating team name profiles for when we play together or compete against. I’m sure they will have fun trying to think of a team name

Will Weird Al and other P3 games be playable at the NW Pinball Show in Tacoma? Very excited to try one and perhaps order

Suggested fun: Team Name must be inspired by a Weird Al song (in game or not).

- Mark

Ask the show organizers and/or a local distributor.
AFAIK; Multimorphic attends TPF and Houston shows normally because the machines can be driven a few hours.
North West seems counter intuitive due to the distance from the show.

Let’s talk about your hand and finger positions if you use the 4 button default setup for flippers.

I’m having trouble finding a comfortable way to play it with the 4 button setup. On other pins, I use my middle fingers for the flipper buttons. I polled a bunch of friends at events, and people seem to use different fingers to flip. One friend even said he uses index finger left button and middle finger right button!

So I want to use middle fingers for the lower flipper buttons. Do you folks just use the same finger for both buttons on one side? So my middle finger has to move to a different button to flip the upper flipper? Or do you do something where you are flipping with 4 fingers?

When I try 4 fingers, middle fingers on lower flipper buttons, my index fingers can’t reach the upper flipper buttons unless I rotate my wrist so that my fingers are coming down at the button from above, instead of wrist straight and fingers straight. Kind of uncomfortable.

What works for you?

I would love it if we could get more standard staged flippers from a single button on each side. I use this machine in tournaments every month. Until now I was using single button setup because it’s what people expect. But during last months tournament I experienced some flipper performance issues, bad enough to pull the machine.

From catching up on this thread I now suspect that flipper issue had to do with the single button setting, so I’m thinking 4 button default setting will yes cause a ton of complaints BUT if it removes that flipper performance issue I experienced, it just might have to be set that way.

Umm, anyway, I was asking about 4 button finger and hand placement.

I also ordered a kill a watt device to measure the voltage at the outlet, just to see where I am.

I use my ring finger on the bottom red buttons and my index finger for the upper white buttons. Middle finger isn’t used as all as I need the gap between the two fingers to reach.

Standard pinball I always use both index fingers.

I do prefer the default 4 button setup. Without planning it, when I pay attention during gameplay, I find my left hand is middle finger-red and index finger-white. My right hand tends to be ring finger-red and index finger-white. I have no idea why, but it's how my hands naturally settle. I may be broken.

This sounds best as you can have a finger on every button at all times.

But I'm biased towards using my middle finger for the lowers, reaching with the index for the uppers, and whining that the buttons are too far apart.

Maybe someday I'll get the energy to make my own P3 button boxes. There was a time when Happ Controls made a 2 semi-circular buttons in one housing thing. It was lighted, and you could label each semi-circle. I looked around for a couple, but could not find any on the market.

- Mark

Adapting a P2k double button could be a potential interesting option if I was to make my own button box.

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Thank you for the info.

Looks like Pinball Life has the best price at the moment.

A-22984-1 pushbutton assembly
5768-16061-02 switch circuit board

One might be able to come up with their own switch solution, and skip the pricy circuit boards.

- Mark

Hi all, started playing the machine…ball was under the right ramp briefly and now the ramp wont go up all the way to line up with the wire form..only goes half way..

Any thoughts on how to resolve?

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Recalibrate is the first thing that comes to mind.

Does the issue repeat after a reboot? Are there any other symptoms like the upper playfield lights going out?

Preordered 2/28/2022
Delivered 4/10/2023

What invoice number did you happen to have?

Wow! I ordered the same day as you and got mine in January. Amazing how many people were trying to order the first second.

I ordered then too but haven't received my notification to pay up yet. Was curious what his number was and how far ahead of me.

To those of you currently receiving your preorders that were placed last year, what price are they being billed at? The current price on the multimorphic site, $11800, or the pricing at the time of your preorders?

Pricing at time of pre-order.

Not only that but we got the opportunity to buy the modules at the old prices as well. We got in at the right time!

Yes, we got an email about the price increase for the other modules, and an offer to lock in one at the old price for a $500 deposit. Ordered a Heist and CCr at that deal.

It was through cointaker if that matters.

My topper doesn't move at all... anyone else run into this? I can hear the motor whine but there is no movement.

Not uncommon. Covered in detail on the support site with instructions on how to fix it.

Is there anything else to do I order to get the motor to turn? "Request continuous movement" does nothing. Yet during game play I can visibly see and hear the motor turning.

It's the switch (and the cam on the motor)

Yeah, that was a nice perk even though we all spent more money