Thanks to Rob (@rdoyle1978) and Bill Disney for bringing their P3 machines to the York show this weekend. I have 13 games and although not in need of another game, I have been looking at Total Nuclear Annihilation (if they remake it), Godzilla Premium, or GNR LE and I just do not want to spend this much money on another game (but can see the advantage of buying a platform for multiple games where the value is much better over time). I have a Houdini and know it is built on their platform but just have not paid any attention to the P3 platform and their system.

I spent most of my weekend at their booth. I got to play all the games and enjoyed it. The top right flipper in Heist takes some getting used to (by using a separate button) but with practice it should become easier.

Money, as usual, is what is stopping me from getting this at the moment. I will seriously consider this for my next game but would want to get everything (play fields and games) so the cost would be much higher (which of course is my choice to "want it all" - plus the new unannounced game). It was great to see the games. It was really nice to see how the flipper/slings came out of the game (like a cassette tape in a recorder), how the balls gathered below the play field, and how the play fields installed and plugged into 4 connectors.

Again, thanks for letting me play both games and ask many, many questions.
Michael

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I told my friend all about the game. Gave him the web site. He was going to buy a GNR LE. I believe he will be placing an order for the game with CCR and Heist.

I ordered my P3 November 6, 2021. In the interim, we decided to move close to our family (and grandchildren) in Evansville/Newburgh, Indiana. I was worried about getting the game while still in Virginia. Luckily, the delay was so long that this was not an issue. Then I thought I would not be able to find a house and we would be in an apartment for a year and need the game delivered to a storage unit. Luckily, my wife and I found a beautiful home in Newburgh and should be closing next week and moving in near the end of the month.

I plan to buy all 5 play fields and several of the add on games. Since I sold all 14 of my games in Virginia in anticipation of being in an apartment for a year, this will provide me with the ability to right-size my collection and buy different games than I had for the past few years.

Sarah at MM has been very good to work with and communicate status over the past 6 months. I can't wait for the game to arrive hopefully in June or July or whenever!

I bought all 5 play fields and recently paid for my game. I’m looking forward to getting it at the end of the month or next month. Since we moved to Newburgh, Indiana and no longer have a basement or a second floor, my whole house plus newly built game room (20’ x 13’) is much smaller but will nicely fit my 3 existing games plus my new P3. Once I get it, people in the area are welcome to play it.

I’m really looking forward to not have to bring it downstairs. As shown in my photos, games come through my garage right into the game room. I got just the core artwork. I’d love to have it all but don’t have the storage room and probably would not bother changing it. I’m hoping I can store all the play fields.

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Actually that’s a pretty good idea. I can still fit the p3 next to TOTAN and have clearance on both sides of the P3 to easily swap out the play fields. I tried to sell the video poker before I moved, but it didn’t sell and came with me.

My P3 has arrived. Thanks Sarah and team. Can’t wait to put it together after work. I should get the rest of the play fields soon.

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Thanks. I bought all 5 play fields. So system core seems the most logical. Plus I know I’d be too lazy to swap out artwork when changing play fields.

True. I wavered back and forth. Part of me wanted the artwork since it was so nice and colorful. I’ll probably regret it or simply turn around and buy it later.

November 6, 2021

Initial observations: (I’m sure you all know but from a new person maybe it will help others.)

1. There should be a minimum height to own the game. I’m 5’7” and struggling to lift the playfield over the sides. Maybe it will come with practice. (I do work out.)
2. The ball was coming out of the trough on the left and bouncing and not close to top flipper. Picture with red lights show I reinserted the playfield with the metal guide behind the flap. I took out the playfield a second time. (Good practice) and lined up the guide correctly as shown in the picture with game off.
3. The leftmost connector under that black box in the back was a pain to take out. I thought I’d break the wires but it finally came out.
4. Using two buttons for the flippers on each side will take getting used to. I like the advantage of the top flipper not getting in the way of shots from the bottom flipper.
5. When I first played a game, the ball went down to the trough and the game went into ball search mode. Took 5 minutes of searching and another ball entered the playfield from the left. I sent it down a hole and it got lost. I took out the playfield for the first time and ensured all connectors in and nothing disconnected. I played a few games and so far so good.
6. As Jvspin says above, the core artwork looks good with Weird Al so I think this will be sufficient.
7. I used light blue pincab leg protectors (I didn’t have black) and they seem to fit well as well.
8. Sitting here listening to attract mode and the subwoofer that comes with it sounds amazing. (My Gameroom is 20’ x 13”.)
9. The upper flippers are lower down then I think and I flip too soon. I’ll get used to the location.
10. The magnet on the right ramp is cool to actually give the ball the speed it need to get all the way up.
11. Now I will start to pay attention to the game and enjoy it.
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I will definitely buy a stool or such.

I’m thinking about getting a mobile winch. But would something like shown below really work if the playfield needs to be pulled out perpendicular to the slanted playfield. I know, this is probably overkill and will stand on a stool first.

https://www.vestil.com/product.php?FID=272

Of course I will. I’m going to see what Lowes has this afternoon or just get something similar to what you showed through Amazon. Thanks

I’m being lazy and have not searched the information exhaustively. Is there an easy way to adjust the sling plastic rod so the ball does not get stuck under it?

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It does not look bent. It has been doing it since I got the game Wednesday. Sometimes just slowing down the ball. Other time stopping until I shake the playfield. I have not yet pulled out the flipper assembly but I can move the shaft up a little as if I can add something on the metal guide where I’m pointing it would slightly elevate it.

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Yes. Only on the right. I’ll pull it out and see if I can notice differences.

After I took this photo, I did adjust the playfield from 6.5 degrees to 7 since the ball was getting stuck behind the loop of the mezzanine on the left, on the ridge between the display and scoops and other places.

It’s funny but after a multi ball ends and the game doesn’t do the end of ball routine, I know immediately that there is a ball hiding behind one of the upper flippers.

Thanks. I looked at the support wiki item and will pull out the flippers and adjust that plastic lever on the right. I did and as I thought, based on the info below it really did not make a difference.

I also noticed the alignment of the flipper mechanism plastic to the one behind it. On the left, they are flush. On the right, the plastic droops as it moves to the left.

I have it open now and cannot see what is causing the plastic to droop.

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Thanks. I adjusted the right leveler a little higher. There is still a little sag but the ball nicely and consistently fits under the rod. Thanks

I had all the family over thanksgiving playing pinball. I just turned on the p3 and the top right flipper is not working.

I took out the Al play field, moved balls to trough and took off ramp and plastic. I moved the flipper with my hand and a roll pin rolled out. I can see that it came off at the end of the plunger. Do I just tap it in?

I just put it back in. Hopefully the round plastic will keep it in place. I’ll put the game back together now and report back. I put it back together and the flipper still does not work. I have to go run errands. I’ll take it back apart later but leave playfield in.

I can’t find videos to work on this flipper (top right). Since I’m new to the game I do not know if you can test in this position with the playfield out. So right now I’m being safe keeping everything turned off. I don’t see any reason to turn on now but wondering for the future.

Also please note the scratching of the clear plastic at the flipper. Is that ok?

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Thanks. Is there a video to take out? Or I’ll look later. Thanks

Thanks. The pin is back in place between the black flipper pawl and the metal plunger. The two springs are keeping the black ring in place.

This is fixed.

I can’t get to the pin scratching the plastic until I take the top right flipper assembly out I think.

My problem is the top right flipper is not working. I am in diagnostics. I am in coils/flasher test and I do not see a coil labelled top right (or top left) flipper.

I do not think the coil is working but I do not know where to test it

Aux left 0 appears to be the left flipper and that works in test

If aux right 0 is right flipper, flipper is not working.

I see the instructions for replacing the right old assembly with the right flipper assembly. It looks complicated and I may not have to do all these steps to remove the top right flipper to see if connected.

But before I do that, I want to test exactly what is controlling the flipper to see that it is not working.

Before taking the assembly off, should I be checking for fuses, or connectors I can see without taking the game apart?

Can I use a screw driver near the flipper to take out the screw and an Allen wrench at the button without taking off the weird Al play field and display?

Thanks. I got the top flipper assembly off. The connector looks solidly connected. The wires appear to be snug in the connector.

I’m watching grandchildren so I could not get any further in the tests.

Is aux right 0 the coil to test for the top right flipper ? If so, the right top flipper is still not working. I tested the other coils near right aux 0 and left aux 0.

I put the screw and Allen nut back in and the flipper side targets are back in place and flipper does not work.

I assume I should follow the white, gray and black wires somewhere but do not know what to do next. I assume take out play field and lift up game to second service position leaning against back box? Or do I need to remove display first?

Thanks. I already removed and re-installed the right top flippers

I followed the 3 wires. I said white gray and black. I think they are actually white gray and maroon or similar. I followed them to a board beneath the playfield and checked continuity on both fuses. I assume the fuse on the right is the one I was actually interested in.

I know the buttons work at the right since I went into switch test and can use the red to rotate through software.

I found a fuse list where the coin box would be.

I submitted a ticket to support.

I don’t know what to try next. Thanks!

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Thanks to you and everyone else for your help. I’ll need to understand the game better so no better time to dig in than now.

I didn’t check continuity between the board to the flipper connector but that will be fun and difficult based on how tight everything is.

I guess just hoping the pin was detached and that was the issue was too hopeful.

Thanks. I didn’t check. Family just left so I’ll be able to test a few more things.

I just checked. I have continuity.

Also reading 2.9 ohms between the outer wires and 282 ohms between both sides to the middle wire.

I just tested continuity from the white wires at j3 on the right side of the flipper board to the white wire on the connector and have continuity.

I also checked the purple wire (which I may have labelled maroon previously) and the gray wire from j7 to the wires on the connector and also have continuity.

There looks like a bunch of test points on this flipper board but don’t know what I’m testing.

I think the transistor is bad. But on a bally /Williams, a bad transistor usually takes out the coil while protecting the fuse which is usually the last item to blow (when of course if it actually worked correctly it would be the first to protect the coil and transistor).

I already tested the fuse in the right side of the flipper board (f1) but since it appears to protect both the top left and right and I know the top left works, the fuse is not the issue.

The interesting thing about this issue is

This is the first time I had all four of my games on all day. I usually pick a game or two and turn on for 30 to 60 minutes to play and turn off.

The other thing is the first thing I noticed was the roll pin fell out. I was hoping it was mechanical but it turned out to also be electrical.

Also I set the power on both upper flippers to the max (40) to get the ball up the spiral ramp. I probably don’t need the setting that high on the right flipper. Could this setting change cause issues with the flipper transistor?

Once I know which transistor controls the right top flipper, I could short it. If it works the same as bally/Williams this would show that I have continuity and the coil works but the transistor is bad. I have a bunch of transistors and once I know which one and the number, I could replace it.

I was able to get a photo to see the transistor number IRL540N. I have a whole bunch of them and can replace the transistor once I find a schematic or tech support tells me which one.

I just reinstalled the right top flipper and tested coil aux right 1. Since aux right 0 should be the top right flipper. Aux right 1 should be the top right flipper hold. If I pull up the flipper most of the way, I can feel the coil grabbing it slightly to keep it up(held).

Therefore when I speak to tech support tomorrow, I assume they can tell me which transistor is aux right 0 and I’ll replace it with a new IRL540N.

When I replace transistors for other repairs, I usually replace the transistor and the coil to ensure I have a new clean unstressed set. So I will probably buy a bunch of replacement coils and probably a spare flipper board.

I hope this was an anomaly and not an indication of what happens when I finally leave a game on all day and it gets a lot of plays.

I do not want to swap boards on the game. It wastes time and I believe I have narrowed it down. I understand the game is probably still under warranty so I’ll find out tomorrow.

Gerry replied to my support request and asked me to swap out the board in the left side of the cabinet with the board below the play field. I did so and changed the dip switches appropriately.

The flipper now works. I’m waiting for further instructions of either replacing the transistor myself or sending them the board.

In my comment above I stated the coil would usually fry when the transistor went bad. Gerry pointed out that the transistor went bad in the “off” position rather than “on” which explains why the coil is still good.

I just got an ups notification. It looks like two notifications, I hope. I’m supposed to get Heist and Cannon lagoon next. It will be nice to try a few other play fields. I still have a lot more to learn and explore on Weird Al.

I have had no issues with the top right flipper since I set all four lower flippers back to 30 (from 40) and separated the upper and lower flippers using the red and white buttons.

I’m looking forward to every play field but especially baseball!

Waiting for it to begin. First time watching one live.

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Hi. I just got cannon lagoon. I checked the fit of the drain area as discussed on the presentation last week. I adjusted a little although I’m not sure it needed it but it was not exactly matching.

In Cannon lagoon, I had to reset the vuk drain coil to get the balls staged.

Switched to baseball. It shoots out one ball. Then it does not shoot out any others.

I went to diagnostics and reset the vuk drain again. I played a bunch of balls and then it stopped shooting out balls.

I’m about to open it again. Take out balls and check the fit again.

Does the screen show anything besides multi Morphic logo?

The Ethernet cable was hard to get out. Hopefully it gets easier with use.

The left guide wants to go in the wrong way just like weird Al. The left unlatch would not unlatch enough to lift out playfield. Finally played with it enough to do so.

Balls need to be moved away from coils and placed back in trough. If you forget to place the balls back in the trough can you simply put them all down the drain between the flippers?

I appreciate any help because I’m trying to work in this. If I have to I’ll search later in my office on a pc.

Just put play field back in with balls in trough. Heard one click for a ball resetting. Last week when you did it, I heard many balls resetting.

I played about 6 balls. I heard a coil pop. Heard a ball roll under the playfield and the game just stopped. No ball search. I pressed the flippers to get flips left to 0. And it does not move to next ball. Only thing I can do is exit the game.

I also just realized that there is a nut on the other side of the 4 screws we were shown to adjust the drain area so in reality I did not move it. Which is good since I can rule out any issues caused by moving the drain metal.

Thanks. The Ethernet is in. I assume this controls the display which says multi Morphic do it is working. I just thought it would be used to show the stands at the gsvl of the stadium or something.

First time one ball and nothing else.

The. I went to diagnostics. And pressed the launch on drain vuk until it stopped making ball sounds.

Next baseball game played about 6 balls and stops. No search. No ending. No way to gracefully exit.

Just took out and put back playfield.

No balls came out

Diagnostics again and pressed drain vuk until ball noises stopped.

Played about 6 balls and stopped. Noticed a ball staged in left vuk you can see but not in right vuk.

Exited the baseball program and as moving to launcher I heard a ball pop. Right vuk now has a ball in it.

Going back to cannon lagoon to see if it works.

Played a game. All calls came out. About 12 or so and with 10 seconds left no balls came out. Then it went to 0 seconds and put a ball out and game over.

Played next game. No balls came out. Just sat there. It’s like after the initial balls are played nothing is resetting.

Just went back to diagnostics and drain vuk and sounds like I reset all the balls. Is there a switch or something in the drain area that is not registering. I guess I’ll look at switches.

I tried to go to playfield diagnostics and it was blue. So either no diagnostics or I can’t get there.

I got 14 balls out of vuk1. Sometimes they didn’t come and rolled back. I think I need to increase the power on the coil. I can’t find the 15th ball. Where can it be? Or maybe it is at vuk 0 location to space out the balls to come out of vuk 1?

I put a ball in between the flippers

Drain 38 active
Drain 38 inactive

Drain vuk I expected next and nothing.

Put in another ball

Drain 38 active
Drain 38 inactive
Drain vuk 37 active
Drain vuk 37 inactive
Drain vuk 37 active
Drain vuk 37 inactive.

I assume drain vuk 37 switch is the culprit. I’ll need to find it and see what’s going on.

I guess I may submit this later through mm system so they can walk me through if I can’t find it by then.

I showed a picture of what I believe is the switch and the connector is in snug. I took out and put back. I don’t know where to look next (and I have to eat dinner).

Thanks
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I was looking in the yellow area on the right side to adjust.

But looking at this photo, I may have to adjust the metal bracket circled in blue

Maybe the first ball got stuck in that bracket before the ball gets to the switch.

Then the second ball hits the first and pushes it out and it has enough momentum to move through.

So I’ll check if this is the area that is not aligned. I guess I didn’t understand what brackets TJ was showing in the presentation.

I will test with playfield missing so I can test that switch 37 drain vuk is fine and it is in fact the bracket possibly obstructing the path.

The path is not obstructed.

The ball goes into the vuk drain position. Above the vuk drain coil.

But the switch is not engaged.

If I stick my finger in an push it slight towards the back, it registers.

It registered twice by itself and popped up the ball.

When I move it with my finger to register, when registered it does not pop up the ball.

I created a case with Mm support and sent them two videos. Thanks. I’ll post the solution if it can help some one else.

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In the launcher all my apps are displayed including cannon lagoon.

When I play cannon lagoon or baseball, nothing shows on the back display that is part of the cannon lagoon playfield

But I have my play field out and trying to figure out switch drain vuk and drain stack.

I added the back display in cannon lagoon as another issue for MM. thanks

I just want my game back together so I can play it

Plus my Peloton Row is coming next week and I want to focus on that for a while.

The initial issue of the drain vuk switch (and also vuk stack switch) explains a lot of intermittent issues I have with weird Al. But weird all seems to be programmed better (or differently) to work around missing switches it appears.

Update on my new CL play field.

I swapped out the small opto board that represents the Drain VUK and Drain Stack with the same board used at the coin door. Due to silly things I did, I swapped them back so the original board was back to the VUK. But I made sure I pushed the board as far down and as far to the right as I could. (I only tried pushing as high up as I could which I realized was the wrong way to move it.)

By doing the above in the vertical position, when the play field was lowered, the board was as far back as it could go and as far down as it could go. This allowed the board to be in the proper position.

I have been able to play Cannon Lagoon, Baseball, and Rhythm Explosion.

For the display only showing the MM logo and not working, Gerry and TJ were able to reproduce it and they will follow up.

I am getting good at using 2 fingers for the flippers on Weird Al.

For FFRE - Trying to remember to use the correct color button (white or yellow rather than lower or upper) and then the red for the flipper will take a while. But I’ll get the hang of it.

The first few games it didn’t dawn on me that the white and yellow buttons on the screen mapped to the flipper buttons. (I haven’t looked or found any directions yet but who needs directions.)

In CL, the default VUK settings were causing the balls to not make it to the playfield and fall back down into the trough. CL would kick out another. Same was happening in baseball.

I changed the VUK settings to min 35 max 40. Balls in CL and baseball were kicking to the playfield most of the time.

I went to play FFRE after I made the above changes. Balls were not getting to the playfield. When they fell back down they either were recording the ball landing in the trough as perfect (if the same hole was the “shoot here “ target) or good.

This was the first few games where I didn’t know to use the white and yellow buttons. So every flip was a miss and a ball.

I thought I’d have to set game specific VUk settings so opened door to get to menu and realized the settings were playfield specific. Not game specific. They were already showing 35 to 40.

I realized the above (using white and yellow buttons) and starting doing better and not having as many balls come out but some were still falling back down and recording as good or perfect. I’m not sure if you could potentially time the vuk to the time reported as good or perfect and if too quickly, assume the vuk failed and try again.

But no matter what, it is fun. The music is good. As I said above, I don’t know yet what your back display will show but I’m keeping this playfield in a few days to learn and play.

Then I should be getting Heist soon. (I just don’t want to lift a heavy play field for a few days.)

The photo below was when I set my upper and lower flippers from 40 to 30.

I never changed the mezzanine so 24
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I was thinking the same thing here while spinning on my peloton bike. I was having issues getting this playfield in and out on the left side. The latch does not fully come off the playfield tab (and was going to probably send as another issue to MM).

I can carefully bounce playfield up and down and I think I can get it to reseat better. So as you said, this is probably the issue. But I have to lift it very very carefully so it only comes up a tiny bit. Otherwise I have to take out the playfield and try again.

I’m enjoying your games. I have them all so I’ll see others as I get the other play fields.

Thanks
Looks like more space on right than left.

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Thanks. I assume you meant to move the side wire forms over the side targets towards the front of the game. I adjusted both the artwork and wire forms towards the front of the game.

It will be interesting to see the gap when I put weird Al back in.

Thanks! I played a few of each of the games and it didn’t appear to fail sending the balls up the VUKs.

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I have all my games on sliders. They stay put during game play but are easy to move except for the P3.

I just moved around my games to get them closer together and move P3 next to a door so I have all the room I need with my stool to get playfields out and in. (Plus I now have space for another game.)

I finally hooked up Alexa in the room to turn on and off the lights as well as each game individually or as a group. Since JP Prem has the switch at the back box, now I don’t need space between JP Prem and Shadow to reach the switch.

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I need about 2 to 3 feet on the left to put my stool there and lift up the playfield, haul it over the side of the cabinet, carefully step off the stool and put to the side. I resigned myself to needing my wife to help stabilize the heavy playfields to help me lift them.

I need space on the right side to connect the wires to the weird Al play field. Plus while debugging issues, I needed access to both sides with left side much more to move in and out play fields.

I could move the game forward with my sliders as well. I choose not to do so.

I am pleased to say I got Heist today and it worked out of the box without an issue. First time I got a nib anything in 23 years that worked. I am happy.

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I knew I would not change the artwork or sling artwork between games. It was best to get the core artwork. It looks good and works with all games.

I have been playing it all afternoon. My son stopped by and liked it. My wife thinks it is better than weird Al. She likes the city.

I got the core because I knew I’d be er change the artwork it looks good with ageist and Weird Al.

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I posted this in the Weird Al forum (while I was stating I put Weird Al back in and how great I thought Weird Al is) but will just repeat it here in case this is a pattern or such.

When I put Weird Al back and played it, the ball would not go into the camera lock. I simply stopped the game and went into settings and mechs and diverters and adjusted the camera center position. It was just strange that it was off when the play field was put back in.

I joked about getting a lift to move the play fields when I first got the game. A “Hoyer” lift was being sold at a garage sale locally for a very low price. It is meant to lift people who can’t move on their own. It handles up to 400 lbs so obviously the heavy playfields are not an issue.

I didn’t get photos since I was moving the weird Al out by myself. But I used the setup below and it actually worked very nicely.

The white rubbers on the tips connect under the ramp (or OCPD building on heist) and provide a cushion if leaning against the wood. The black rubber protects the wood finger holes.

I have to do the initial lift to get it up a little above the play field. Then I attached the back two hooks under the back ramp and the front two to the black handle. It moved it up smoothly. I guided it with one hand while pumping it up with the other. Then rolled it away from the game where the playfield easily went over the side.

I put the box on the floor and lowered it into the box.

I put cannon lagoon in the “normal” way.

Next time I’ll have my wife or son help me guide it up and out smoother.

I haven’t tried putting weird Al back in (or heist). I’ll do that in a week or so and see how smooth it is, hopefully.

It is a game changer for me. I love the games but dreaded moving the heavy play fields. I considered selling the game if I was not going to want to change play fields. I know some of you will think it is overkill but I feel safer and it took me longer to write this post than to move the play field out.

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I have the side protectors I use for my other games and use them.

I have a good place to store the lift out of the way. If it became too much effort, I could probably flip the lift again.

The effort is not too much. My wife will help guide but doesn’t like lifting it. My son lives close but is not always around.

With the step stool I bought, my wife and I could move the games in and out. When I saw the lift, I almost didn’t buy it. But it was so inexpensive I thought I’d give it a try.

Exactly. Moving Cannon Lagoon is easy. I moved the game such that I can now step on the stool and not have to pivot 90 degrees. But overall not comfortable now and probably not 5 years from now.

I feel ok now at 59. But I want a long term solution without having to rely on others.

This was more of a challenge to see if I could create a viable solution to get games out (which I did with weird Al) and in (which I’ll test after I load the OS update to make my cannon lagoon Display work).

I ordered the P3 with all five playfields on November 6, 2021. The game came with Weird Al about August 2022. Cannon Lagoon and Heist came about 6 months later. Lexy came about two weeks ago. Cosmic Cart Racing came yesterday.

I will probably order the new play fields soon. But I need a place to store all the play fields. I’m thinking of the available display carts/drawers on wheels.

I mentioned the silly hoyer lift I bought a few weeks ago. It works. But I may simply flip it as a medical lift and ask my son to help me get Weird Al and Heist in and out of the game. All the other play fields I can do by myself. (Lexy is still in the box until tomorrow so I can try out CCR.)

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This has been discussed previously, but with the set up of the buttons (in my opinion) it puts fingers in the wrong place.

In an ideal world, I use my index finger to play pinball all my life. So on every manufacturer except P3, I used my index fingers to control the main flippers (and of course the upper flippers as well).

On the P3, based on the position of the buttons, my index finger is now on the white button to control the upper flipper (or changing lanes for features) and my ring finger is on the red button to control the lower flippers. This is totally un-intuitive. Sometime during the game, I will use my wrong finger when not thinking and lose the ball. The world will not come to an end and life goes on.

Other posts have suggested reconfiguring the buttons. If the buttons were in a position such that my index finger controlled the lower flippers and my middle or ring finger controlled the upper flippers, this would be consistent with how I play all the time and would be an easier transition into the P3 world for most people, I believe.

An interesting setting in software I would love to have added and try is to keep my fingers as I stated:
index finger on white button
Ring finger on red button.

To me this is a comfortable position.

If we could have a software setting that makes the white button control the lower flippers (so I am using my index finger)
and
the red button controlling the upper flippers (my ring finger) , that would be an interesting option to see if I can play better and feel "more normal".

Congratulations to Josh! He did a great job with programming Houdini and listening to the owners. Before we moved to Indiana (and I had to sell all 14 pins), I had Houdini and it is a great game with great modes and great shots. Once you learn how to hit the narrow lane to the catapult, it is not difficult to repeat.