Heist is a fast, tough game at factory settings but it’s certainly not linear. You can approach the modes in any order you want, choose any combination/number of characters to take into a Heist, run jailbreaks or not, do side jobs or not go after multiballs….

I know you can change pretty much any setting, but not sure if there are pre-programmed easy to hard modes like in Sterns.

Easier calibration and maintenance are nice-to-haves, but I actually prefer the old fashioned, mechanical "clunk" of the existing scoops.

I originally bought Lexy and Heist artwork but when ordering Weird Al decided to just switch to the core. It looks great and just feels like the right fit for a multi-game machine. I’ll still order the game specific apron magnet and plastics.

You can find them in the artwork section of the Multimorphic Store for each game.

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Has anyone replaced the audio amp and speakers in the P3 with higher wattage, better quality devices? Seems like it would be very easy. I've never been thrilled with the sound quality, and with Final Resistance on the way seems like a good time to upgrade.

Don’t recall reading anything about patent protection, but imagine Gerry has created some barriers to easily copying the concept and technologies.

Based on my experience, and horrible local FedEx and UPS depots, would really like to see some module packaging improvements. Perhaps double boxed with impact absorbing material in-between. Or even a wood crate - but this may require use of a common carrier. Even wonder if changing to a glossy white box with colored printing/stickers of the contents would help - less likely to manhandle an iMac than power tool.

Maybe improved packaging could be offed as an option if it would also serve as a module storage solution, e.g. stackable crates.

I’m sure Gerry has/is carefully considering changes. They may not be justified based solely on % of issues / direct financials, but perhaps are warranted when indirect marketing aspects are included in the analysis.

Received my Final Resistance module this week which motivated me to finally upgrade the P3 sound system. The P3 is innovative in so many areas, but the sound system isn't one of them. The base system uses Alibaba speakers with a small Multimorphic amp board. The speakers are similar quality to Stern pros/premiums and maybe a step down from the Stern LE, JJP and API systems.

I'm far from a sound expert, but have a couple PinWoofer systems, and installed DIY systems on my other Stern premiums and LE's after reading through the Pinside DIY sound thread. Both yielded similar, major improvements, but the DIY approach is less than 1/2 the cost. And Pinwoofer doesn't offer a system for the P3.

I'm thrilled with the results, and it's particularly amazing on FIRE given Scott's soundtrack. The whole thing cost less than $150 and takes it to another level.

You could also just install new speakers for less than $100 and use the existing Multimorphic amp. May give a big chunk of the improvement, but I don't know how it would sound without being able to balance back box and cabinet volumes.

Here's a summary of what I did with a big caveat to proceed at your own risk, especially if your machine is still under warranty. I installed a separate 24V power supply and amplifier so the changes actually have no interaction with the P3 other than picking up 110V line power and the audio out jack - but would be very careful if you don't really understand working with electricity and how everything works/comes together. I also have an earlier P3 without the new speaker panel which could make a difference in clearances, speaker selection, etc.

The back box speakers are 6.5". I've used Flipper Fidelity, Pinsound, Pinwoofer, Pinball Pro, Pyle and some other brands over the years. They're all an improvement but have settled on the Infinity Reference Series. They're about $70 on amazon, but you can usually buy "like new" for $40-50. The bolt pattern is a direct fit. It may not be needed but I installed a 1/4" speaker gasket as a spacer. You could also 3D print a spacer. There's plenty of room in my version of the P3 but I still ordered the shallow mount speakers. People on the DIY thread also really like Kickers -sure both sound great and night-and-day from stock. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYPF593/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I had an 8" Flipper Fidelity 4 ohm woofer on-hand so installed it in the cabinet. It sounds really good, but I plan to replace with a Goldwood GW-8024 that's on order. I'm almost certain that the Flipper Fidelity is a cheaper GW-208 with a paper cone, which is the same speaker in the Stern LE. The FF is $35, GW-208 $30 and GW-8024 $40 (or $33 if you buy 2 direct from Goldwood). People on the DIY thread really like JBL Stage subs, and that's what BOF is using in Labyrinth, but I prefer a wider frequency range woofer vs. subwoofer. The FF and Goldwoods are about 25-6000 Hz while the JBL only goes up to 200 Hz. Subs can also be a lot more power hungry to sound good. I installed a 1/2" spacer for the woofer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ0S88/

For the amp I used a DAMGOO 50W+50W+100W from Amazon. It's only $26 but has knockoff TI sound chips used in higher priced amps. I installed the Fosi BT30D pro amp that the DIY sound guys love, $80-100, in one of my Sterns and honestly can't hear any difference. The DAMGOO gets great reviews on Amazon, and has more than enough power, easy install and no feedback issues. You could also use a Lepai DP-168HA amp like American Pinball and Spooky for about the same cost, but from what I understand it has lower quality circuitry. I just got a basic 6' 3.5mm M/F extension cable to extend the jack from the existing MM amp to new one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KT3FG9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNAUYBY

I used a Meanwell 24V switching power supply that's $27 to power the amp. It's the same type as Multimorphic uses for 12V power in the P3. It's important to use a supply that matches the amp's rated input voltage so that it's not starved for power. I tapped the 110V input for the amp from the P3 power switch. You could pick-up 110V from the P3 12V amp but again I wanted to be cautious and keep things separate. You could also use a properly rated power adapter/brick, cut off the plug and wire into the P3 power switch or just plug into the service outlet. Make sure to unplug the P3 from the wall outlet when doing any work in the cabinet, and be careful where you place the power supply and amp since there's not much clearance between the modules and cabinet bottom. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018RE4CWW

Hope this helps some of you.

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Only had mine for few days but here are the basics. Hopefully others can add and correct.

-Nine Battle “modes” that start automatically after countdown (circle winding down on lower middle of playfield above power ups)
-In-between battles you get ready for battle by:
-Spell HACK on lanes to collect various power-ups like time slowdown, shotgun, hack, freeze, nuclear explosion…
-Hit side targets to spell LOCK and LOAD and lock ball behind drop target
-Raise shield on ship by hitting it or preferably by using “hack” power up to raise and lock balls. Haven’t figured out yet how to stop 3-ball multiball to get 4+ balls
-Think combos light scoop for mystery award which is typically power up (at least initial awards)
-Hit orbits to start battle
-Use power ups to help win battles (select with white buttons and start with launch button)
-Hit drop target to release locked ball. Believe multiples some or all point values
-Lock last ball in ship to start ship multiball and unleash total chaos
-Win 3 battles to start SWARM multi ball
-Think winning battles also unlocks more powerful power ups (and extra ball)
-Haven’t paid attention yet how to build bonus
-Battle modes are all amazing with health/status bar of enemy/you at top of video display.
-No idea yet what happens after winning more than 3 battles or all of them. Prefer to keep a surprise.

I’m fine with the two buttons, just wish they, or someone, would offer an alternate button box that is ergonomically better for people that use their index finger. Like the design used by American Pinball. Would just need to move the yellow button back more under the red.

Don’t understand how the computer power supply would have anything to do with strength of the flipper and other coils unless it was somehow pulling down line voltage to the cabinet power supply. Interested in seeing what Nick/MM have to say.

Actually they’re very easy to remove. Pretty sure there are videos on how to remove on the MM support website site.

I don't get the appeal but the movie was popular after my generation. Watched it for the first time after hearing the rumor and it was fine but pinball sales will certainly hinge on the nostalgia factor. If true, imagine Gerry has done his homework and is confident the theme will attract a chuck of new 40-50 year olds to the P3 customer base. Never imagined there would be a pinball called "Princess Bride" but it's better than Barbie, and if it's a good game I may still buy. No way I'm telling my 60 something, non-pinball friends though that my latest machine is Princess Bride.

The base P3 machine is pretty straightforward, but the newer modules are packed with mechs that could be difficult to service in the field. Some may disagree, but I believe they are designed mainly for the home vs. heavy commercial play. This may change with the robustness improvements Gerry has committed to on new titles. The good thing is that you can easily swap modules while one is being repaired.

The other big thing is the need to proactively invest the time to learn how the machine is built, operates and is serviced. It’s a different beast.

I honestly don’t know why someone would operate the machine other than for the love of the hobby and to introduce people to a great platform. Stern pros are obviously the best way to make the most with the least effort.

I hadn’t thought of the video game/screen draw. And for places that cater to pinball enthusiasts vs. casuals it’s a welcome addition. I’m sure design reliability will continue to mature with volumes/economies of scale.