(Topic ID: 197642)

Multimorphic P3 Club

By _xizor

6 years ago


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9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #132 NEWS: Multimorphic 2018 game issues summary Posted by gstellenberg (5 years ago)

Post #969 NEWS: Bowen Kerins and Colin McAlpine joining the team Posted by PinballTilt (2 years ago)

Post #1773 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Switching Modules how-to video Posted by KevInBuffalo (1 year ago)

Post #2996 NEWS: Games available breakdown for each module Posted by Rdoyle1978 (6 months ago)

Post #3054 TECH: CABINET. How to remove cabinet head Posted by DigitalJedi084 (5 months ago)

Post #3099 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Upper and lower flippers single button setting Posted by gstellenberg (5 months ago)

Post #3198 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Weird Al right ramp continuously going up and down fix Posted by bingopodcast (4 months ago)


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#381 4 years ago

I've been following the P3 for quite some time, digesting each new reveal and piece of information greedily while waiting for the game to release.
I started making my own games using the P3-ROC boardset and love the python framework that Gerry helped create, and the boards that Multimorphic produces.
Meanwhile, I'd been quietly saving money to put towards a P3...

I was able to make the purchase shortly before TPF this year and am in love with this machine. Serviceability is really quite nice. As someone that does a lot of work on modern and older games, I really appreciate the little touches. I adjusted a pop to be more sensitive the other day, and it really could not have been easier. Pulled the module out (four connectors and lift), then flip the whole thing upside down and adjust and test outside of the game. Much more convenient than pulling a whole playfield or sticking your head in and fooling around.

My family and I have played tons of Lexy (still haven't squashed six aliens in one game yet) and ROCs. The non-pinball folks seem to really like ROCs more than the traditional game. They'll play it for hours. Lexy is quite deep - most modes I can beat (except for assembling the ship), but putting that together in one really killer game is quite difficult. Seeing pinball people's reaction to a bug hitting a slingshot for the first time is priceless.

Once delivered, I started saving again, this time for a new module...

And just yesterday I received Cosmic Cart Racing!

My wife couldn't believe that the swap time was so short. I updated Lexy, the launcher and system utilities, and though the updates were pretty quick, that update process took way longer than swapping the modules.

I'm in the process of learning Unity and hope to contribute to the ecosystem as well. The SDK is very well laid out and the documentation is very nice.

All that to say, I am breathlessly awaiting the next games for the system. Thanks Multimorphic for super solid products and lots of fun!

3 weeks later
#389 4 years ago

In case you have not heard it, I completed an interview with Gerry a few weeks ago.

As a P3 owner, interested P3 developer, and user (and super satisfied customer) of the P3-Roc and associated boards, I wanted to dive a bit deeper into the reasons behind some of the things that Gerry and Multimorphic have developed.

We even sneak in some EM and Bingo chat near the end.

Episode 450 - Interview with Gerry Stellenberg 6-26-19

Gerry Stellenberg of Multimorphic (www.multimorphic.com) joins me to discuss his history with control systems, development of the revolutionary products the P-ROC, P3-ROC, and the P3, and custom pinball development on the P3.

I use and enjoy many of the products produced by his company, and his boardset allowed me to complete the Multi-Bingo in a very short amount of time. I have used his boards in every project since and never hesitate to recommend them to anyone looking for a control system.

The P3 is a modular pinball machine which allows for custom development. It has many unique features, from the wall and scoop assembly that can change the geometry of any game on the platform instantly, to an LCD screen that can serve as score display and collection of virtual targets - the ball can roll over items on the screen and interact - it's truly amazing.

The 2010 Expo seminar that Gerry references -

and Pinball News has a writeup here:

http://www.pinballnews.com/shows/expo2010/index5.html

A (very) early video of the ball tracking used on the P3:

We even sneak in some bingo talk at the end!

Join us in the pindev slack channel to discuss homebrew or custom development. To get an invite, contact me using one of the below methods --

You can reach me at [email protected] or via the bingos line at 724-BINGOS-1

You can listen to the show on Apple Podcasts, Pocket Casts, Stitcher, Google Play Music, Spotify, Facebook, Twitter (bingopodcast) or follow me on Instagram (also bingopodcast).

The show's website is foramusementonly.libsyn.com

If you like video games, you might enjoy Gaming on Ten Minutes a Week at http://gamingonten.com

Thank you very much for listening, and I'll talk to you next time.

#390 4 years ago

I sold off a game recently to fund an upcoming project, and also to purchase... a backbox monitor for the P3!

The upgrade process is very easy - the box comes with two brackets, which need to be installed on the inside of the head. No marking of the cab is needed (aside from marks for the pilot holes) as the brackets sit flush against portions of the head which are pre-existing. Each bracket has eight screw holes, and you need to drill pilot holes. Simple tip, if you wrap your drill bit with masking tape, it will make it much easier to see if you are going to drill too deeply. I do this for drilling playfields as well.

Once the eight screws are installed, the monitor is plugged into the DVI port, and power is split from an existing Molex connector in the head. The monitor is hung and four locknuts are tightened to hold it in place.

Multimorphic ships a new translite with the monitor as well, and that is as easy to install as any other Multimorphic translite: remove top plastic channel, slide out existing translite, insert new and then replace top channel.

Because it becomes more complicated to access the computer and other internals of the head with the monitor in place, Multimorphic ships a USB port bracket to install in the coin door. This should make future updates even easier.

As usual everything is super well thought out and easy to install...

...but best of all, the backbox monitor is GORGEOUS! They have chosen a very high quality arcade monitor, and it shows: color quality and clarity of image are superb. I was expecting a backbox monitor - how great could it be? - but my jaw dropped. Beautiful! Haha! My younger daughter saw me testing everything once I had it all bolted up, and came down to check it out.

She was also impressed with the backbox monitor, and paged through the carousel of games until Hoopin' it Up! caught her eye... she had never tried it before, but she absolutely loves the game now. She played 16 games in a row last night, which is highly unusual. She still hasn't played all the minigames, but I'm sure she'll be playing more tonight. Thanks @goldpins for such an excellent game - and you absolutely can't beat the price!

#394 4 years ago
Quoted from imharrow:

For backbox screen users, how ackward is getting to things in the backbox. I like streaming with direct video, which I get by plugging an HD60S into the computer and sending the audio straight to my mixer. I would probably end up direct capturing the backbox display, how easy it is to tap info? Does it make tapping into the playfield harder?

Remove the translite and the speaker panel still folds down. I'd likely use that for access. Shouldn't change a thing about the playfield! The backbox monitor connects via DVI, but I'm sure you could get a splitter/adapter.

2 weeks later
#402 4 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Wish me luck, and enjoy your P3s. I sure as hell am.

Very happy to hear you are enjoying it - welcome aboard! I, too, have really been enjoying the P3. I have yet to find something that is not a joy - playing, spectating, working on, programming, introducing to folks new to pinball or new to the P3... I love it all.

Gerry is also a great guy, and he and the entire team are very dedicated to supporting their product, which I believe speaks incredible volumes about the type of people, the type of company that is Multimorphic. Can't wait for more games and P3 news.

1 week later
#409 4 years ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

I'm curious to know if there's enough interest for a commercial version of this (possibly a closed frame, cabinet-looking version instead of open frame). Please reply or PM me with your thoughts.

Yes! However, I think a vertical orientation might be better for long term (you can't store it under the game, but that becomes impractical with three playfields).

For the Multi-Bingo, I ended up building wooden supports for each playfields' unique mechs and hanging them on my wall. As these playfields cannot mount flat (or near flat) due to the more squared off shape, something like a playfield armoire would be welcome - on castors.

Done right, perhaps two playfields could store facing each other stacked three or four high? With two sides, you could have a total of 12 or 16 playfields... Cost is probably an issue at that point, but it would work for home developers and owners into the future.

Oh! And to help with cost, maybe ship unassembled?

3 months later
#429 4 years ago

Played Heads Up! At the show... Super fun. I haven't won yet, but the sun was in my eyes.

2 weeks later
#447 4 years ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

we're also doing it for free

That's amazing! I can't wait. While I do enjoy the non-traditional gameplay of CCR at the moment, it currently feels like a single player focused game. When I have guests over, or play against my family, there is a lot of waiting around if I qualify and they don't. It sounds like this will bring a bit more balance to the gameplay (from a hotseat multiplayer perspective).

I'm also super looking forward to WAN play! I hope we can arrange some sessions with CCR owners on pinside. I think it would be fun to have a regular Tuesday evening race, for example.

...and I'm sure it goes without saying that I'm looking forward to the next full game as well.

#449 4 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Neither game really works for multiple players. Now, CCR was designed with the ability to play simultaneous multi-player with linked machines. I'm guessing this may be fun

It is super fun. I'm really interested in the WAN play, that should make things pretty excellent, even without the extra single player game.

#455 4 years ago

I don't have the Cannon Lagoon module yet, but I may purchase it just for GSR and Heads Up.

4 months later
#526 3 years ago

I learned quite a bit from that stream, thanks for doing that Gerry.

I also ordered a set of artwork protectors for the P3, once I start taking it to shows, I don't want people pulling the art off (without my knowledge).

The protectors come bundled in a compact cylinder, and have a plastic film on both sides (like new playfield plastics). It also comes with a bag of screws (thankfully a couple of spares in the bag since I managed to strip one out with an impact driver).

They look fantastic upon install - adding a glossy finish to the artwork which looks quite nice in person. For those that have a P3, there is a recessed area where the artwork lies currently - the protectors take up a bit of that space. I think these are a must if you plan to have your P3 available to the public to play (no matter how supervised).

I also ordered a new magnet apron for Heist - I haven't ordered a new one before, and I was very pleased - it ships flat sandwiched between cardboard, and the apron itself has a score/instruction card built in which is really extremely helpful for the game. While I was installing the protectors, my daughter installed the apron magnet - she was very pleased with how easy it was to swap. I had her wipe down the apron with a lint-free cloth while the magnet was off (in case any dirt found its way there), and it look fantastic. The new sling plastics and apron really complement each other, especially when the Heist module is installed. Great work, Multimorphic!

#531 3 years ago

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I don't take great photos, but I did remember to snap one before streaming today!

9 months later
#550 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What do I do to level this better? The ball is getting stuck ALL. THE. TIME. Behind that one trap. Can I lower it somehow?

I had that issue with the Heist playfield after removing and installing it many times. The issue was a nut on the far left side front of the playfield module had fallen off in one of the removal/replacements, which caused it to sag a small fraction. Replacing the nut fixed it for me.

If that doesn't do the trick for you, does it do it for other modules? If so, then there is a wiki document detailing how to relevel scoops/walls that might help.

As to other issues, can you post what they might be? If ball is not diverting properly you may have a blown fuse on the PD-16.

You may wish to open support tickets for your issues - I've had very good response time from MM regarding issues. Faster than I am able to actually address, in most cases.

1 week later
#567 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I can't state enough that EVERY owner of a CCR playfield needs to own RitR.

Very hard to argue with this statement.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

And I think I have a version of RitR waiting for me

Thank you both! Don't forget to build a new version of RITR to get access to the wizard mode and new items! Cheeks if you haven't already, I nerfed the base high item scores in RITR, which are used as part of the new features in the game, so be sure to reset your high score tables to defaults... (sorry in advance, but I think you'll enjoy it!).

#581 3 years ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

I hope bingopodcast keeps developing games for the P3.

Just saw this, and I wanted to say thank you for this comment. And you don't have to worry - I have so many ideas rolling around that I should be busy for quite some time.

In fact, the one that's closest to release uses the Heist module... and I'm pretty pleased with how it's coming along. Hopefully you will be too, once it releases.

#596 3 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Has anyone made a P3 playfield caddy similar to what crile1 's friend made? He's no longer taking orders and I'd be interested in either buying one or building one of my own based on available plans if there are any.

Looks like 2x4 and 1x1s. Playfield appears to hang on the front/rear 2x4 corners, and lean back into the center supports. Should be fairly easy to take some measurements and cut to appropriate size.

I might make some and put some t-nuts and small wheels or casters on them to facilitate moving in a tight area.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What does everyone do with their extra PFs when they are not in the game ?

I leave mine in the shipping box, and swap back and forth. I like that they are enclosed on all sides, but it's a bit more hassle than something like the above.

#611 3 years ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

It's definitely not overlooked. We've been discussing internally for quite a while, deciding on the best time to offer it. We're happy to see more discussions about it, and we're curious to know how many of you would want it and what exactly each of you would want (carrier that slides under the machine? Separate storage rack?) The shipping boxes are great for stacking in a small area, though I agree with Mark about fighting the flaps.

I would be fine with either - I fight the flaps often.

My gameroom has rubber flooring, so sliders wouldn't work well. It would need wheels of some kind. A carrier that slides under the machine is probably best from a storage space standpoint (and that's where my boxes are currently). A rack would be easier (less bending). So for me, it's a toss up. I would use either.

#654 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Haven’t had a chance to install yet but if I recall correctly there was a giveaway of RitR when Nick did his release ... I believe Mr Silver picked my name out of a hat (er, figuratively)

The giveaway was for a time-limited demo of RITR - I wanted to try giving a demo as part of the reveal, but the users I kept selecting posted that they had purchased! A good problem to have, for sure.

I PM'd you for the email to send it to! There's a whole weekend ahead of you at the moment.

#656 3 years ago
Quoted from boagman:

I did find the long, long pauses between things actually *happening* to be something that I wouldn't want to put myself through.

Not every game is for everybody. There's nothing saying you have to like it! The main goal is to get a high score. You're totally in control of that at all times. The items/ghosts (which I assume you mean by things happening?), appear on a randomized basis from previous players. Those items help or hinder you (usually help) in achieving that goal.

As I built the game, my focus was on a game that required a lot of skill to achieve a large score - I also do not like games that require any waiting period to get the ball back into play, which fed into my decision to use the CCR layout for the game. Any time it hits a scoop, hits a hole, etc - a ball immediately launches back into play. I have the magnet assist set to fling the ball super quickly over to the left flipper from the ramp launch.

When you come across a ghost, a bit of audio plays to give you a heads up, and a warning flashes on screen. Several targets turn the same color as the ghost, and when you hit one on a (short) timed basis, a scoop pops up at random. Hitting that scoop on a (slightly larger) timed basis causes you to receive the item that ghost/player was carrying.

Two different multiball modes (one that I think is just about as hard to achieve as Black Hole's multiball - which I find to be one of the hardest multiballs to achieve), and several different unique effects unlocked by the various items you find.

But you're still trying to get a big score.

There are multiple high score tables to try to top, and a very unique wizard mode that was released as part of the 2.0.0.0 release. If you're a fan of roguelike games, there's also the excitement of cataloging the items and their effects.

I like challenging games with a lot of clear and concise options to play.

Hopefully that answers your question? Happy to discuss further if you like! And again, not every game is for everyone (and that's ok - maybe I'll get you with the next one?).

#660 3 years ago
Quoted from boagman:

I think you've done a great job in incorporating the theme you were trying to utilize (a roguelike) and its dystopian world and nature

Thank you! And thanks for all the feedback.

Two quick notes - there is a way for the player to qualify locks by shooting the playfield, and full playfield multipliers are the only timed multipliers, and they can stack. The rest are semi-permanent.

All of that feeds into the risk/reward factor.

#661 3 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Has anyone made a P3 playfield caddy similar to what crile1 's friend made?

Hey, I built a thing with some scrap wood I had lying around (had to grab some casters earlier this week).

Took a couple tries (I'm not a woodworker) first attempt was too large, but second attempt did what I expected.
Some small changes from the design above probably because I am bad at woodworking.

My games are too close together to slide in from the front, and I've also got something on the side preventing me from sliding in there, but I did manage to shove it under a game and it worked as expected. I can shoot some photos in the next couple of days.

Also put the finishing touches on the Unity portion of the last scene of my new game today, inching closer to playtesting! Just a couple more modes to write and then I can give it a go. Shooting for some pre-alpha excitement next weekend. I'm pretty excited about a rule we came up with today.

#673 3 years ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Left flipper start to access the feature I believe!?

The app needs a setting added in for this - it is called the 'feature menu' in your settings, but vast majority of apps have the menu now (if not all) - left flipper start is where you set up bluetooth connections and some profile functionality as well.

#675 3 years ago

Some pics of my very amateur build of a playfield cart and a bit about how it varies from the photos that were shown earlier. Whole thing stolen, hackishly, from @crile1's cart photos. Built it in about an hour with a circular saw, a drill, and an impact driver.

It fits under a Black Hole (which is the game with the lowest clearance to the bottom of the cab in my gameroom). It is just about narrow enough, if I had the room, to put under the P3 or any other standard body game. I might pull it in another inch on either side for the next one I make and keep the handle/siderails flush with the edge of the bottom structure.

The whole thing is mounted on 1.5" casters which allows it to spin in circles if I want. The playfield itself rests on the front corners under the plywood (not on the metal lock tabs), and the back sits on the structural 2x4s that run along the length of the cart, so it does not need to lean back (or forward). No wires are pinched on the corners, and the front handle sticks out far enough that the wireforms or ramps do not extend beyond the cart.

I've got enough wood to build another cart for my other playfields, so I'll do that at some point. Now the only trouble is keeping the dust off the playfields when not in game. Just have to swap each more frequently.

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#676 3 years ago

Made another one, here are the measurements and materials needed:

2x4s and 1x2s.

2x4s: 2x40in.
6x 9in.
2x 16.5in.
1x 19.5.

1x2s:
2x 19 14/16ths in.
2x 41.5in.

Need two size screws - 1.5in and 2.5in. Both either #6 or #8. I used #8.

--EDIT-- oh yeah, and 4x 1.5in casters - I used the screw type (4x screws), but initially wanted to use t-nuts and leveler-style screw casters. Either work, but the size limitation is such (CL playfield JUST clears with a few mm to spare) that it would be wise to use the same lower profile casters if you choose to do so.

I assembled with a circular saw, impact driver and corded drill. You can skip the impact driver if you like. I also had a sanding block to knock off splintered wood from being impatient and bad.

#678 3 years ago

Stay tuned! More to come for this on dust protection.

#683 3 years ago

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No dust! Designed and sewed it today. Magnets in the skirt, but not attached to the frame of the cart yet.

I might sew handles into the top but it removes and can be replaced very easily as is.

I've only sewn manually before today (used to sew a bunch when I was younger), but I learned how to use a machine for this project.

15" tall, 21" wide, 42" long.

Material is poly backed canvas, and I doubled it up. Hopefully waterproof enough for a light shower or two at a show.

1 week later
#709 3 years ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

Now about that Heist software update...

Playfield is already loaded in my game, looking forward to it!

#727 3 years ago

You all are going to make me blush! Thank you! Great way to start my weekend (of programming my next game).

#730 3 years ago

Lexy has some glass off detection enabled in the tilt menu. For some reason you have something it's detecting on the screen when it shouldn't or similar. You can turn this off in settings or go into diagnostics and view the opto pattern on the screen to see where it thinks the problem might be.

3 weeks later
#747 2 years ago

Just put up the website for my next game for the P3... inching closer to release. Any detectives out there that can sniff out the domain?

If you think you know it, PM me and I'll send you a small prize if you're correct.

1 month later
#750 2 years ago

Excellent video, Kevin (and thanks for the shout out)! Looking forward to the rest of the series.

2 months later
10
#794 2 years ago
Quoted from boagman:

RITR did *nothing* to convince me to the contrary.

Sorry you didn't enjoy your time ruining rangers.

Luckily, the platform allows for different tastes to coexist! I've made three very different styles of games thus far and am making a full module for my fourth.

Perhaps you might enjoy one of the others, perhaps not, but I think it's great that there's a breadth of content that continues to expand (and thank you for giving RITR a play).

#798 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

How will that get manufactured?

I'm exploring a variety of options. (look for a thread soon)

#821 2 years ago
Quoted from boagman:

I apologize if my emphasis was read in any way as being insulting to your project. It was not meant to be read that way.

Not at all! Exactly as you say, not every game is for everybody, and no apology necessary for feeling any way whatsoever about it.

I truly appreciate that you gave it a shot!

2 months later
#911 2 years ago

Lexy and Heist do not use the same tubes. Agree that it is most likely a launch tube alignment thing (except the power dying, that's something else, but almost certainly not in the backbox).

When you do the swaps it is important to push the balls into the lower trough area so that the vuk tubes have the clearance needed to install cleanly.

Putting the module in, the left and right orbit ball guides should be in front of the side modules, and there are clips that retract that you should lift to hold the small tabs on either side in place.

If the game is recognizing your module, then the USB is almost certainly fine. You mention that the monitor is showing a no signal is this on the playfield monitor? Does it come on and show the launcher and function normally after that, or does it go to no signal after playing for a bit?

It is most likely normal for it to show no signal right at power on (briefly) because the computer hasn't initialized it yet.

There is a diagnostic application that can show you the visualization of the balls in trough under launchers. That is very useful if you are having launch issues as you can see what the game thinks should be happening. You navigate with the red buttons to highlight the appropriate vuk then hit launch to propel a ball out. If that fails, it's almost certainly an alignment thing.

If the balls are constantly shifting in that view, then it's also alignment related.

#912 2 years ago

Another tip: I make it a habit to push on the front edge after seating a new module and before releasing those side clamps to help align the module vuk tubes as it is possible to align everything but still have the tubes sitting forward a very tiny amount.

#915 2 years ago

Review your alignments carefully when the module is installed using the suggestions I provided. In diagnostics, are you able to launch a ball up that tube? Some minor variance in how the tubes are aligned is fine, as the ball won't eat through the entire launch tube. However, it's important to make sure that everything is lining up properly when you install the module.

If there is a fastener that extends through the playfield at the small protruding tab area, ensure that all hardware is on both sides - in Heist's case, for example, there is a nut that helps with tube alignment, believe it or not, since just about any adjustment to the way the module sits affects the tube alignment.

I've had one circumstance where I determined that a launch tube might have been the problem. It was not, and was something elsewhere affecting the alignment. Almost certainly not an issue of alignment on the module itself, if that helps.

#923 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

powering up and down does nothing

Powering off the game will immediately drop all scoops and walls which are held up. Is that happening? You mention when it's powered back up no buttons function. In the upper left of the playfield screen it will say which module it detects. Is it saying the correct thing?

In the launcher carousel, the flipper buttons will work regardless of which module is installed, allowing you to page through installed applications. Is that happening?

Or do you mean that the game froze mid-session for some reason and now you cannot back out to the menu? If that's the case, you've stumbled upon a bug. Multimorphic has a way to upload your log files (through ugh system manager->manage installed applications->rocs->manage logs->send logs to multimorphic if you are connected to wifi), which will allow them to resolve any bugs, assuming you also submit a ticket with your upload ref # to support. Powering the game off and back on will get you back up. Of course, whatever bug you've hit upon remains, so you could trigger it again.

I play a bunch of rocs, though admittedly usually only on the Lexy module. Which module do you have installed?

#926 2 years ago

Unless you've maybe put it into single application mode, I'm not sure how that would be possible. Turning it off and back on will always bring you back to the launcher - unless you've told the p3 to always boot directly into rocs. Or the launch buttons is stuck down as poster above says...?

I'd suggest that support will need to take it from here.

#943 2 years ago

If you turn the game off, remove the currently installed module, and turn the game on, you'll see there are several balls queued in the back of the trough.

If you push these down to the lower collection tray, they should kick back up to the upper trough area. Do they?

3 months later
#1009 2 years ago

Haven't posted in this thread for a bit, but just catching up!

I am still developing a new module game, but my latest software game (for the Cannon Lagoon playfield module) was released recently!

If you're interested you can find out more here:
https://www.multimorphic.com/store/p3-game-kits/3rd-party-game-kits/flipper-foxtrot/

This weekend I spent playing a ton of Heist, and had some of the best games of my time owning the module.

The cat burglar mode is a multi-phase mode. Phase 1 a ball is picked up by the crane and hovers over the playfield. If you complete (or time out, I believe) this portion, the second ball will drop into play for phase 2 (the escape). If you drain before hand, the cat burglar is jailed and you lose both balls.

The non-linearity of Heist is something I enjoy very much. I played through and finished some modes, started and completed a Heist, and there was still a ton to do. At one point, I had police and crane multiball stacked with a mode. There is a lot of nuance as you progress through the ruleset, and I have now started the BFH several times and seen the difference between earning the mcguffins for the characters vs. going in cold (finishing the modes without collecting the mcguffins). It's really amazing how well the game comes together -and- the variation possible from play to play.

One of the best things, in my opinion, is that you're never locked into a particular path. You can start and fail a mode as often as you like by starting and completing a jail break at any time.

Once you are in a mode, you have to complete it or time it out before moving back to standard gameplay. Of course, during a mode, you can stack things like crane MB.

Hope you are able to play it a bit more and get more into it - it's an incredible game overall.

#1013 2 years ago
Quoted from manadams:

Are these supposed to be tightened with a wrench or just hand tight, worried about bending the flange since there is a pretty big gap between it and cabinet.

I used a socket, and the quick start guide calls this out "after tightening these bolts, the hinges should not contact the sides of the cabinet. There should be a gap of about 1/8"."

There's also a caution about overtightening the bolts and deforming the hinges, so definitely don't go crazy.

It doesn't need to be super crazy tight to hold the head in place. I used a socket to ensure that it didn't back out with heavy play.

1 month later
#1144 2 years ago
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:

1. I am very surprised that Multimorphic isn't selling an under game storage solution yet! I searched around a bit and it seems like people are storing the playfield modules in the original cardboard boxes? I can't believe a 3rd-party modder hasn't cashed in on this yet (or have they?). I guess my question is what are you all doing/what are some creative solutions to storing these? I would prefer under the game.

Until there's an official solution, I've posted plans for a cart in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/multimorphic-p3-club/page/14#post-6182429

And a photo or two:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/multimorphic-p3-club/page/14#post-6177690

I've also sewn some canvas covers to protect against dust.

The carts are on casters to easily slide in any direction - sometimes I have them sideways under a game or in the front. It will not fit between a standard set of front legs, but perhaps on widebodies.

Quoted from Cheeks:

you have to buy Ranger in the Ruins

As always, thank you very much!

2 months later
#1225 1 year ago

It should be approx 360lbs. and without the straps it is not attached to the pallet.

You can find the machine dimensions and shipping details/weight on the support link under Customer Resources on multimorphic.com

1 week later
#1240 1 year ago

The quick start mentions that the cabinet is appropriately leveled with all levelers all the way in. Start from there and then start levelling based on your flooring. I'm not sure if you have the nuts applied to your levelers yet, but those should be installed.

The P3 has built in level detection - I believe you can see it in the [edit] system manager app in the apron area of the screen. Pardon me if I'm wrong as I'm not in front of my machine at the moment. That'll at least let you see if it's basically level left to right as well as the pitch.

I don't use protectors, but I think KevInBuffalo does - metal or otherwise.

The chip is a bummer, but yeah, a dab of glue and quick clamp would get that back in.

Agree on checking that the module is latched on both sides. If you're not having ball launch issues, that's unlikely to be the problem, but still possible.

The scoops (the piece that has a small gap) are adjustable. However, before adjusting rule out the other stuff. There is a page on the support site that lists how to make adjustments. Your wall/scoop assembly is the newer motor-driven one. I'm familiar with the coil-driven one. [edit] There is a new process for the vertical levelling. The scoops can still be adjusted forward to back, I believe by the same process as outlined in the support document (if needed).

#1241 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

It kind of feels like the legs arent all the same size, or the holes arent equal , something is weird.

This is an interesting note that I missed before my comment. Sounds like one of your bolts might be cross-threaded? The legs are all the same size (or should be) and the holes should be equal.

The legs should be tight. If the legs are loose, then it will be out of level quickly.

#1242 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr68:

The only good use for the plastic ones now are to cover existing damage on a painted cabinet.

It should also be noted that the P3 doesn't have any artwork in the area covered by a plastic protector, and the cabinet is painted, not decaled. I would imagine the plastic ones would be fine on the P3 (and I think that's what KevInBuffalo uses).

#1250 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Anyways does the p3 come w/ standard glass ??

Yes, standard, and I've never seen anti-reflective glass on a P3. Not sure if it would wash out the playfield screen? If you have a sheet, you could always try and see if it makes a difference.

The position of the backbox monitor and the playfield monitor make any reflections much less distracting than, say, a DMD or screen mounted directly above the glass.

2 weeks later
#1273 1 year ago

Hold a flipper button when pressing start to open the feature menu.

You can start a coop game by enabling team play when two or more players have been added. When using profiles, each player (for coop) must use the same profile. With this you can do 2v2 or 3v1 or whatever.

That menu also allows for Bluetooth headphone connection and per-profile setting changes.

You can also access this before launching a ball (again with flipper+start).

1 week later
#1306 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I’m surprised there aren’t more games on the Lexi pf.

There's one more, but you'll have to go to the York show to play it. (Quest For Glory)

#1330 1 year ago

Thanks for the Drained talk!

Quoted from PinballTilt:

Yeah, doesn't Nick have a module pretty far along in development?

Very far! Sample games will be shipped to testers soon, all physical artwork should be done this week.

Based upon tester feedback, I'll make any changes needed and then focus on production.

Quoted from clempo:

do we know how he plans to handle production?

I'll have more to say about this once the ink is dry on the agreements needed. Stay tuned!
Changes required in sample testing or Multimorphic approval might modify the steps needed for assembly, which might change what I currently have planned.

#1333 1 year ago

There are other 3rd party modules in development aside from my own, in various stages of development (and obviously I'm not privy to everyone's projects!).

Yes, Multimorphic approves software and hardware released on the platform, which is very helpful to a 3rd party developer.

1 week later
#1390 1 year ago

Being able to write lightshows specific to those speaker lights is a really neat (optional) additional feature. I've done so in the game I'm currently working on, as well.

#1394 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I don't see anything there that justifies a $200 price. The same could pretty much be said for most factory add-ons.

You can program it to interact with any game you are making. That requires effort over and above cutting some off-the-shelf LED strip to fit in a particular space.

This is not programming a specific color when some other light in the machine goes off - I mean making these integral parts of the light shows used in the game. Sweeps, chases, blinks, flashes, color changes, blends, etc. Again, this is totally separate from wiring to a specific lamp in a game and having it go on and off at the same time, or using a remote control to set the color of each lamp. Each lamp in these kits are fully programmable using the SDK/framework.

This is not only functionality available to Multimorphic, but to all third party developers as well. That required time for them to add to their SDK, and on and on. If $200 is more than you feel it is worth, thankfully, they also made this upgrade completely optional. I don't have this kit, but I am adding the feature to the game I am currently making because I feel it is a nice touch for those that do have this upgrade.

2 weeks later
#1447 1 year ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

Years ago, I saw a P3 at Pintastic before the games were in full production. When playing Cannon Lagoon, there was a display behind the playfield. With a display replacing the backbox translites in the newest base cabinet, is the lower display gone from the system? I don't see it on Weird Al. Saw it on this youtube video as well

Different modules can implement their own separate mini displays, like Cannon Lagoon (which still comes with a separate display). Typically, this mini display shows completely different content from the backbox or playfield monitors. In the case of Cannon Lagoon, it's used to show the shots needed (along with an on-playfield indicator).

Weird Al does not have a mini display, nor does Cosmic Cart Racing, or Heist. Only LL-EE and CL currently have a mini display. Minigames that apply to all modules such as Barnyard, Shoot 'n Scoot, and ROCs have custom-formatted graphics or integration specific for those modules.

#1449 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

How are the flipper switches implemented? Would it be possible to implement two switches on the red button to support flipper staging?

They are leaf switches, as you'd expect, with all the nuance and finesse available to them, but the default button box cannot hold a stack of 2+ in the red position.

In my opinion, it feels a lot more skillful and consistent to use a second button for a second player control component, especially switching between machines that you do not maintain. It took me three games in a row to get used to the second button flipper control on Heist. If you're able to stage, you'll likely be able to adapt to a second button.

Since the button boxes are swappable, you could always make a custom button box with two switches behind a single button if you wanted.

#1452 1 year ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

Of COURSE Ranger in the Ruins too...

So cool, Nic! Thank you!

1 week later
#1473 1 year ago

If no coils at all fire, then there may be an issue with power or with the communication between boards. Your P3 is newer than mine, but the power supply in mine is on the bottom board of the cab. I'd put the playfield into service position 1 (resting on the lockbar assembly) with the module removed so that you can observe the power supply when you turn it on.

If it's resetting that might cause the behavior you're seeing. The question would be why?

The boards in question for coils are PD-16.

The other option is that each pd-16 is chained to another for communication purposes, and those are tied back to the P3-ROC under the frame (playfield). Maybe one of those three pin .100 connectors pulled out? Perhaps the 5V feeding the board has a break?

Each bank of each pd-16 is fused, but a failure on one fuse would not prevent other banks from firing.

I'd encourage you to put in a ticket if you haven't yet, as there are multiple possibilities for your issue, and perhaps others I haven't thought of.

Sorry that happened with RITR running! I've not heard any other reports of similar behavior from any other RITR owners.

#1474 1 year ago

Also in answer to your question about locations (well some of it) -

The SW-16s provide switch inputs. Each board provides a maximum of 16. The cabinet SW-16s handle cabinet buttons (and flipper button boxes I believe) and are located on the left wall inside the coin door.

The Frame boards (P3-ROC, PD-16, & SW-16) are mounted underneath the playfield (the entire assembly sans module is called the frame). The P3-ROC serves as the main board. It sends and receives driver commands and switch inputs to LEDs, coils, motors, and from switches.

The Walls and Scoops in my machine are coil driven. That requires a different PD-16 mounted to the front and back of the wall/scoop assembly. The PD-LED drives the lamps for each wall and scoop. On yours, the PD-LED may(?) be the only board as it can drive the new wall and scoop assembly as well as handle the illumination.

The PD-LED is part of the communication chain of the PD-16. So if the walls and scoops will not move in diagnostics, along with all coils dead, it's more likely a communication error. That would stem (most likely in this case) from the P3-ROC. There are two three pin .100 connectors for PD-16. The output might have come unplugged.

The vuk pd-16 handles the launchers. This is mounted to the back of the frame.

Each module can have one or more pd-16 and those details are typically on the back of the module.

As I stated, I have a different (older) P3, so some of this information about locations might not be correct for your P3. I also could be plain wrong in my guess as to the problem. Or a dip switch got flipped on one of the pd-16 or PD-LED boards, but I'd make sure those are correct for your model by contacting support before making any changes. You only want to change those dip switches with the game off.

This all assumes that I understood the problem correctly and no coils at all fire in the diagnostics app. You will want to have a module installed before testing launchers.

Hope that helps a bit with the boardset, and I'm sure support will get you rolling quickly.

#1478 1 year ago

I'm also a paper manual kinda person. Don't disagree, however, each pin of each switch input and coil/led output are documented inside the diagnostics application.

As far as communications, each board is documented on the multimorphic site and might be worth a look for more detail. The communications chain is serial (not the inputs/outputs - meaning the actual coil/led drivers are not serial nor are switch inputs), so output from the P3-ROC chains to input on the first sw-16 and first pd-16 or PD-LED. Therefore, one to the next.

Fuses values and what they protect are documented using a combination of that sticker inside the coin door or back of the module and the diagnostics app.

Again, I also like a good manual, but hopefully that helps with baseline understanding.

#1480 1 year ago

I hear you (and agree - for exactly the reason you state). Aside from the P3-ROC, each board has an input and an output for comms. If the coils on pd-16 1 work, for example, but the coils on pd-16 2+ do not, then your problem is likely with the serial output on pd-16 1 or input on pd-16 2.

Regarding your pulse question: that gets into how the software works. In short -- not in that screen (with coils) in diagnostics.

You need to go to either under playfield to test the vuks or playfield module to test specific mechs on a module.

Some items may or may not have tests (such as diverter magnets on Heist), where you'd need to listen for clicks in the coil portion of diagnostics or roll a ball during a pulse.

Generally, if a small pulse works, a longer pulse will as well. That verifies the communications chain as well as the individual wiring to the component. What it doesn't do is verify marginal wiring on the individual component, as I know you know (but for others that may be reading).

#1486 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

bought and downloaded ranger in the ruins last night

I forgot to say last night: Thank you for your support! I hope you enjoy it.

Quoted from Jediturtle:

I wanted CCR eventually, especially for SA and RitR.

Aw yeah! (Thank you! I hope you enjoy RITR as well).

Quoted from rockrand:

Lights out multi all is one of the very best and my favorite multi!

It's my favorite as well. I think the very clear goals and excellent audio queues (for a semi-hidden multiball) contribute to the overall neat factor.

1 month later
11
#1589 1 year ago

Hey all, reminder that the White Rose Gameroom Show is happening in York, PA next week(!) October 7-8.

I will be on hand with all of my P3 games, homebrew and commercial, released so far, including:

(Homebrew) Quest For Glory in its first public appearance! Play, save your progress, come back and resume your game later! Earn achievements and try to finish the game with all three character classes!

(Commercial) Ranger In The Ruins - the popular pinball roguelike playable on the Cosmic Cart Racing playfield. Run through the ruins of a former civilization to find the sum of all knowledge, acquiring items from the ghosts of past players from all over the world!

(Commercial) Silver Falls - choose your avatar from dozens of choices, furnish rooms, and clear special modes to progress through your home! Play Team Games with other attendees to make more progress and hear more of the excellent Scott Danesi chillhop soundtrack!

(Commercial) Flipper Foxtrot Rhythm Explosion - sometimes the P3 just wants to dance! Choose a song, and one of five difficulties, then show me your skills! Happy to play a game against you and see how I stack up.

I will have a TV display (this is my first year trying this, so we'll see how it holds up) with a countdown timer showing when the game will be changed over. Come back often!

--Non-P3 Games--

I also work with bingo collectors and help maintain and teach people about bingo pinball machines in Bingo Row. As part of that I'll be bringing two custom games.

(Homebrew) Multi-Bingo - 142 playable games, total, this year with a 20 hole playfield installed (which limits the number of games to 15).

(Homebrew) Multi-Races - 39 playable games, total, a mixture of payout and replay versions. This is the first year it will be shown with Joel de Guzman's excellent backglass artwork!

Earning a 4 or 5 in a line on any of the games in Bingo Row will allow you to win a unique promo item for my next game: Drained. This game has not yet been released (and will not make an appearance this year), but I'll be bringing a very limited number of vinyl postcards containing a medley of the songs from the game! These postcards can be played on a record player, and include a QR code for streaming.

Beyond all of the games, I'm looking forward to meeting more of you and hearing your thoughts about the games I've made. It's very rewarding to be able to share a creative work with many people. Please say hello!

#1605 1 year ago

The upper playfield module artwork is a laminated decal (so the mylar is built in). Weird Al in particular has cutlines set back from the posts to prevent twisting of the artwork when posts are torqued.

Regarding ribbing - depending on the underlying wood surface + prep, that is possible, but I haven't seen it/noticed it on mine.

1 month later
#1719 1 year ago

It looks like the ribbon cable that feeds the side target LEDs on the left assembly has backed off the connector a bit.

To fix, you'll need to look at the tech document on the support site - there will either be one to reseat this cable or the instructions for installing the left flipper assembly.

3 weeks later
#1757 1 year ago

You can!

The SDK contains the data needed to make games using the (currently 5) Multimorphic modules.

If you would like to make a game for Drained, you'll need the module definition/driver from me (PM me for them).

However, you don't need permission to make a game, only to release it on the platform for others to play. Multimorphic reviews and approves all releases on the platform.

#1759 1 year ago

Wow, thank you! That's a huge compliment, and I really appreciate it.

One other note about development - you don't need a P3 to get started!

You will need one to test your game on hardware, of course.

2 weeks later
12
#1811 1 year ago

First two production modules of Drained shipped this morning! Serials have been digitally removed from this photo.

PXL_20221217_151839073~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20221217_151839073~2 (resized).jpg

#1813 1 year ago

My new game for the platform.

I've made several games - Ranger In the Ruins which uses the Cosmic Cart Racing playfield module
Silver Falls for the Heist module
Flipper Foxtrot Rhythm Explosion for Cannon Lagoon,
And my first full playfield module, Drained.

If you would like to learn more, see: https://drainedpinball.com

#1824 1 year ago

Their support is really excellent. Of note, those are JST connectors, and are actually very mechanically reliable if crimped properly - also of note, I've never had a bad crimp from Multimorphic's games.

1 week later
#1877 1 year ago

Happy81724 One of the games I've released for the P3, I co-designed for the Heist playfield module with my then-10-year-old daughter. It's called Silver Falls.

You and your daughter may enjoy it, and it is (in my opinion) the perfect game for team play! Also, it has a unique soundtrack by Scott Danesi - lots of great Danesi jams on the P3!

#1881 1 year ago

I can tell you that your numbers are probably conservative on some items, inflated on others.

Removing any of those items and replacing them is easy, and that plan looks good to me. You can also remove the backbox, but that's much more intensive.

I would probably leave the backglass and playfield glass in, since you're going to save more in weight just by removing the module than your estimate shows.

#1889 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I ordered it, now seeing how To Install. Looks like I get a link or something different from the others

Thank you!

It should install the same way as ROCs - if connected to Wifi, it should appear in System Manager, and allow you to build. Once it's built, you can install.

You can also do this from multimorphic.com - once you log in, there is a page with downloads. There will initially be a link to build the app, then after a few minutes, refresh the page and you will be able to download to USB and install.

Edit: whoops! Looks like you got it rolling before I finished typing, haha!

#1897 1 year ago

While the Ethernet is hooked up, in the launcher, an image should be displayed for any game selected. Is it, or does it just show the MM logo? If the latter, it means the communication isn't working for some reason to that screen.

If it does, then starting the GSR application should allow for application control of the monitor, and yes, it displays a different image than the mm logo. Does Cannon Lagoon display the ships, barrels, etc?

#1911 1 year ago

Thanks for the follow up, and for purchasing FFRE - I hope you are enjoying it!

#1915 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

The first few games it didn’t dawn on me that the white and yellow buttons on the screen mapped to the flipper buttons. (I haven’t looked or found any directions yet but who needs directions.)

There's an instruction card that shows on screen during attract. It's a single card, so it's brief, but it describes hitting the notes with the appropriate color button if I recall correctly.

The back display shows a title card, I decided forcing the player to divide their attention was too mean, so you're only missing some additional color explosion back there.

Your launcher issue is causing the registration of the balls without actually fully launching. Sounds like the module isn't quite aligned (to me) so your balls are making it past the 'good' point and falling back down.

The game measures the ball entry in a particular way that is very fast. In some circumstances you can have four balls in play at once. Modifying the game to prevent registration of balls based on a time delay would cause balls to be 'missed' and the game to become confused. In my opinion, it's handling this fault very well - it doesn't cause the game to completely stop or create a constant cascade of launch attempts. Hopefully that all makes sense.

Also, once you get really adept, there's a setting to allow the normal song play while balls are in play. That is absolutely mind-bending!

#1917 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I’m enjoying your games. I have them all so I’ll see others as I get the other play fields.

Thank you! I very much appreciate your support!

Quoted from mbelofsky:

I can carefully bounce playfield up and down and I think I can get it to reseat better.

There are quite a few ways to adjust things in that area if needed, so it'll likely be a small, but critical, adjustment. Multimorphic will be able to point you to the proper item to tweak. A photo of how the module is sitting (improperly) would help if you'd like an armchair suggestion. If the module (or any module) is not clipped into place on both sides, you will run into launcher issues. Those clips are incredibly important to prevent kickback during launch.

Quoted from mbelofsky:

(I wanted Drained and will probably get it. But I bought a Peloton Row first.)

When you're ready, check out https://drainedpinball.com for ordering instructions. I'm currently ahead of planned production and games are shipping every week.

#1919 1 year ago

Looks to me like your ball return wireforms above the side targets assemblies are a hair too far forward. That might be causing everything to pivot a hair and causing your launch issues.

#1934 1 year ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

Drained is so addictive!

Thank you RebelGuitars - so glad that you're enjoying it! It was a lot of fun to make the game, and has been a lot of fun to manufacture and get in people's hands.

I love seeing the full cabinet art package on display, too!

#1938 1 year ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

I just realized that I probably should have spelled steak..stake. Oh well, coffin/coughing

Haha, indeed! It was scripted as 'stake'. Each sequence of targets has their own dedicated pool of callouts - one for each character in the game. That one was one of many for the STAKES sequence.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I need to wait until I finish our taxes before I can buy this module!

Looking forward to it! I hope you'll enjoy the game when you're able to partake.

#1940 1 year ago

Cosmic Cart Racing can't be beat for sheer variety - CCR has arcade, online, and career modes, and add-ons including Sorcerer's Apprentice and Ranger In the Ruins. Fun, fast, flowy playfield with a huge volume of LEDs.

Lexy is a deep traditional pinball game with a number of really neat tricks that show off the platform well.

CL has several unique games - the quicker, redemption game that comes with the playfield, Grand Slam Rally (a pitch-and-bat game) and Flipper Foxtrot (a rhythm action game).

Of course I'm biased, but Drained is also a really fun
and unique game, and the lead times are pretty short at the moment!

Disclaimer: I made Drained, Flipper Foxtrot, Silver Falls, and Ranger In the Ruins.

#1946 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

My only concern with drained is my kids do not like EM style play.

Not every game is for everybody, and that's totally ok!

I would definitely encourage you to check out the gameplay streams of Drained if you have the opportunity, though. I love to incorporate a mix of classic (and fast-paced) pinball action with modern rules, sounds, music, interactive on-screen targets, and light shows. I'm really excited about all of my games, and feel they each bring something very unique to the P3.

#1949 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

What is the current lead time on drained?

Mid-March at the moment.

#1954 1 year ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

Not sure how many you make per week, but that sounds like it's a success

Thank you! Always room for more - jump in!

I've made continuous improvements to my manufacturing speed, but I've consistently shipped every week since those first units went out. I also build in time for issues and planning/regulatory stuff/retooling (and there's a lot of it at the beginning of the year).

I've met or exceeded every delivery estimate I've provided - except for the first unit, which shipped out two days after the estimated ship date.

I'm very serious about making sure I can deliver on my promises, and am proud of what I've accomplished so far. A lot of that is due to the vendor and other relationships I have (my family is very supportive), and a lot of it is because I will work non-stop to accomplish what I say I will do.

#1990 1 year ago

Installing beer seal under the lockbar prevents that movement.

2 weeks later
#2067 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Some games you can log onto Twitch when someone is streaming and mess up their game - make the playfield go black, slow down their car, etc.

I believe this has been integrated in every released game, aside from Grand Slam Rally, ROCs, and LL-Secret Agent Showdown. All of my games include unique interactions with Twitch (if enabled). Part of the fun of developing that feature for a game is trying to think of fun and engaging things for people to do to help or hinder the streamer.

As you mention, you can also use this feature to help or hinder people in your household. A lot of fun as an observer or as a streamer.

3 weeks later
#2121 1 year ago

Drained, Heist and CCR are my current top 3, for the huge variety in add-on games available to play, and game/shot feel (disclaimer: I designed Drained and my company - well, also me - builds it and sells it.).

Yes, this is real pinball. I am making playfields every day - be a lot easier if it wasn't! The difference is that the lower portion of the playfield is completely dynamic, and the ball can interact with items on that lower portion. So imagine a monster that jumps out and grabs the insert out of the playfield, but the ball hits the monster and forces it to drop the insert. Something completely impossible on a traditional machine, but the P3 can do so easily.

The biggest improvement over traditional pinball is the ability to communicate much more effectively. Having a persistent score display right under your flippers is so powerful - and having that dynamic canvas to paint instructions over - it all works together to tell the player what they need to do. I have a harder time figuring out other games because of that lack of communication.

#2123 1 year ago

The mini-games are a really interesting experience (again, speaking as someone that's developed several), and are real pinball to me.

Ranger In The Ruins (CCR) is all about speed. Internet connectivity, lots of different (optional) items to discover, and non-stop pinball action.
Silver Falls (Heist) is a laid back(?) pinball experience, but there are moments of extreme tension.
Flipper Foxtrot (Cannon Lagoon) is the least like a traditional pinball experience, but rhythm action games are very appealing to me, and this one has some unique rules.

Each of the above games is $150, and completely change the gameplay of the existing playfield.

A plug for Quest For Glory (a homebrew) - it is by far the deepest pinball game ever created. It's so deep that a core concept is saving and resuming your session later to continue a single lengthy narrative.

Everyone likes different things, but the beauty of the P3 is that there are lots of options that cater to many tastes. And those options expand frequently, with lots more to come.

#2130 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

So a few months ago, I officially got in line for another base P3. Am I crazy for having 2 base units? Nah.

Ha, me too!

#2133 1 year ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

"Question on storing the modules ...... they all ship in a box that we can store them in, however what do we use to store the module that we bought with the core P3 cabinet? Are the boxes "generic" that any module can go in or do they have special form fitting foam? Reason I ask is how would I store Weird Al when I throw Heist or another module into P3 if the boxes are specific to the modules they came in?"

Check the key posts - I have built three carts that I use to shift modules around my gameroom.

#2147 1 year ago

With the game off, pull the playfield from under the apron out (typical handhold area) to the first bump. You can rest the bracket on the lockbar receiver in this position.

Look in the back of the module. There are four connectors here. The important one in this instance is a USB cable. It might have backed out slightly.

Unplug that cable and plug it back in, turn the game back on and in the upper left in the launcher it will tell you which module is installed. If it says WAMONH, then you're good to go. If not, then it could be something else and might warrant a trouble ticket.

Hope that helps!

#2149 1 year ago

When everything was plugged in (with the power off) and the machine turned on, did it fire up?

#2153 1 year ago

Regarding launchers - there are two nuts that adjust the distance between the launch tubes and the back wall of the launcher. I'm not sure what the instructions you followed showed, but it's possible that the nut behind the launcher which is not firing properly needs slight tightening (like 1/4 turn then test).

#2155 1 year ago

Alternatively if launcher 7 (the right ramp launcher), check from above and make sure it's not hitting the wireforms and dropping straight back down. If so, then check where the wireforms attaches to the right ramp.

#2156 1 year ago

The balls in that view can sometimes show incorrectly - launching on the left side should force it to update. Alternatively, something is blocking the balls in the trough. Removing the module should show that if something is somehow wedged in the trough.

1 week later
#2214 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

in for a drained

Thanks all! (More subtle suggestions above)

Looking forward to the 9th and Final Resistance!

2 weeks later
#2361 1 year ago
Quoted from clempo:

Where is the front handle in Heist to lift the playfield?

The OCPD station doubles as the front handle.

#2365 1 year ago

Do you have anything registering on your screen sensors in diagnostics? The crane thinks something is there.

#2391 1 year ago
Quoted from Flippersaurus:

But it's kinda comical to have the Weird Al topper turning on and off while I'm playing Drained.

Ooh, that's the first report of that. I have a standard Weird Al, so I didn't realize the topper did anything aside from (potentially) light show integration in Drained. It would only impact certain shows if that was the case. At least, I think so!

Is Al moving during Drained? That's totally unintentional and I'll need to figure out why, if so.

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from RebelGuitars:

It doesn't move, but the lighting does go on and off throughout the game.

Ok good! Some of that behavior is intentional (hopefully all!). There are, I believe, brightness controls for the topper LEDs, which I believe are module specific. Not owning a topper, I'm not sure, but if desired you can turn those off, I believe. They might be called cabinet top or similar in the LED settings menu, which offers brightness controls for every RGB LED.

#2404 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

They got the chance to play Drained and Weird Al (as well as ROCs and Barnyard). They started on Drained - I had just received it a few hours before they came over. Both couldn't stop shooting the gobble hole on Drained so not so much fun for them

Sorry to hear they didn't like the game! There is a per-user or per-machine setting to change the gobble behavior for those that want a different (less punishing) behavior.

#2410 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Your module was literally "drop in and it works". Kudos to you sir.

Thank you! I spend every bit of time possible to make sure the unboxing experience is as good as I can possibly make it. I hope you enjoy it!

Quoted from Flippersaurus:

I received Drained recently and have been having a lot of fun playing it.

Very glad you're enjoying it and I hope that you continue to do so.

Thank you both for being customers and for playing and sharing the game with others!

Speaking of sharing... Multimorphic had a Drained installed for the public to play at TPF! A huge thank you to them for their efforts in letting more people experience the game, and a huge thank you to everyone that tried it at the show. It is always a pleasure to see people playing and enjoying a game that I've created.

1 week later
#2471 12 months ago

Not sure why the site was down, but appears to be up now.

Regardless, the orbit likely has at least two switches to register the orbit shot in game (start orbit/complete orbit -maybe a center switch to ensure it's still on the right path). Make sure you are testing both/all switches in path.

1 week later
#2560 11 months ago

If you need something to play while you wait, there's another new game you can purchase today and have shipped within one week (and I'm working to decrease even that lead time).

https://drainedpinball.com

#2573 11 months ago

It's even faster if you switch from a game like CCR to Ranger In the Ruins. No glass pulling or module swapping.

#2583 11 months ago

You never know what the future holds, or time frames, but in order of likelihood, third party modules are the most likely to go out of production.

Licensed titles would be the next most likely (if there is an expiration date on the license agreement).

I've tried to align vendors and add in some future proofing in case parts become no longer available, but you never know. Part of the (immense/sheer cliff) challenge.

As an independent developer and manufacturer (currently the only indie manufacturer), your dollars are all extremely appreciated and put right back into future development. So even if Drained goes out of production or doesn't strike your fancy, hopefully the next will be just over the horizon.

#2588 11 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

-How do I find the default settings for having both top and bottom flippers triggered by one button? I created my profile and see I can set it there. Is that it? Is there not a "default for machine" setting?

It's default per module. So for example, you'd need to set it for WAMONH and for Heist separately. The operator setting (accessible by opening the coin door and pressing launch) is under Settings->Mechs->Switches. The profile setting is as you found, within the profile setting editor in the feature menu (accessible by holding a flipper button and pressing start).

Quoted from arcyallen:

-How accurate is the onscreen leveling? Mine jumps about .8 degrees constantly, even when everything is dead still. That makes accurately leveling a challenge. I tried using my traditional digital level but it was very different depending on where on the playfield I was measuring which was interesting. I assume the clear plastic playfield isn't 100% flat.

Using a traditional level is best done on the apron area and the lower portion of the module for the reason you specify. The onscreen levelling is useful as a baseline but does jump around. I'd suggest reading the quickstart to get to that baseline even faster (spin all levellers completely in, then start levelling to use the intended pitch, go up from there if you desire).

The polycarbonate playfield is subject to bending, but only a small amount (the monitor prevents it from moving too much and creating issues with ball travel). Depending on the vintage of machine (I think only some of the earliest machines don't have this), there are small, adjustable backing pieces.

Quoted from arcyallen:

-This is the most important one: I have multiple games that are having VUK issues. I hear the coil firing, and sometimes I see a ball trying to make it up (90% of the way), sometimes it's in the machine and I see nothing. I pulled the playfields out a dozen times last night trying to troubleshoot. I've read everywhere that the alignment for these is adjustable, but other than for Weird Al (which I don't have) I don't see directions for this.

Weird Al used a new style of VUK adjustment - the nuts on the back control the depth of the VUK tubes. Other modules each have their own methods of adjustment. It's important to verify how the ball is failing to launch. The tubes, being thick aluminium, will show wear as the steel ball strikes them. You can use this to determine if the tube needs to move forward or backward. If the ball is striking the back of the tube and then slamming into the front (you'll notice a pronounced divot on the front edge of the tube in this case), you'll need to move the tube towards the back, or realign the module in the machine.

Each module is a little different. You may be able to adjust the tubes by placing small fender washers under the launcher tube alignment brackets (put one in the corner in front of the tube that's too far forward and it'll tilt it very slightly back, for example). Also double check that the module is actually seated properly. Each side -must- be latched down in the front corners or launches will fail. Make sure those siderails/feet on the module that the clamps in the game hold in place are tight.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Basically, make sure it's set in place properly (forgetting to push the balls into the trough can prevent the sides from latching), and inspect the launch tubes to see how it's failing. In some instances you can watch from above, without removing the module, to see how adjustments might be needed.

#2589 11 months ago

Oh, and the most important thing - test your launchers in the Diagnostics application->Under Playfield. For Heist, you will want to go into the Playfield Module section and open the jail door first.

You can also easily adjust strengths of the launchers in the Under Playfield screen if desired/needed.

#2595 11 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

If I use any more, I can hear (what I believe is) the "drain coil" firing over and over, with all of the balls stuck in that area and none in the VUK area or the tray in front of it. Any suggestions?

There's an entry in the support wiki about the drain - basically if you remove the trough (it's about six screws to remove a shroud and the trough) you'll see how the drain lines up. It's possible these are out of line (follow the wiki recommendations). I'd suggest instead upping the power on the drain coil - when there are a lot of balls, it has to push harder. Multimorphic accounted for this but there's a setting which I believe is per module to adjust that strength.

Quoted from arcyallen:

On the left VUK the ball makes it half the time, the other half of the time it makes it 80% up.

Look down from the top while trying to launch and see if you can spot how it's getting knocked off course. Turning the launch strength up doesn't always make the launch smoother (physics!), but on CL, the launchers are pretty much straight up and down, so something is causing the ball to lose energy before it makes it up.

What's interesting about this is that CL has tubes all the way down. If the rest are working properly, this is pretty interesting, but it makes sense it's on one extreme side or the other.

Quoted from arcyallen:

Is this a fancy effect, or is something off? (see pics)

You might have a loose pin the large connector on the back of the module. You can either replace the pin or try(?) squeezing it tighter with the game off. Identifying the correct pin would require a support ticket.

Quoted from arcyallen:

I cranked the power even though it works fine for the other modules (it was near max already) and didn't help.

One other note, this is a per-module setting, so you won't need to crank it back down when you switch modules.

#2596 11 months ago

I always seem to forget something important. You can go into coil test and pulse the drain coil manually quickly repeatedly to clear a jam if one occurs.

#2598 11 months ago

If the module is unplugged, it is ok to turn on the machine. -Do not plug the module in or unplug the module while the power is on, but it's fine to start the p3 without the module installed.

Be aware that you don't want to launch balls in underplayfield diagnostics without a module installed. Otherwise, you should be fine. Haha

#2606 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

I gotta get that Drained now.

Thank you - I'll be here!

Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

see 3rd pic. I’m not sure if this is a hair, debris or dead pixels?

One of the cool things is that this is pretty easy to verify - turn the game off, remove the glass, then pull the playfield out to the first position (cross brace resting on lockbar receiver). Push the two clips holding the back of the apron up and it will fold down.

From there, grab the polycarb and move it a little or remove from the machine to inspect. If it's not on there, it might be a little smudge on the screen. From the comfort of my chair wiring Drained games, it looks like it's not dead pixels, so I assume there's dirt or a hair or something.

I always make it a habit to reinstall the polycarb before turning the game back on just in case a ball ends up rolling onto the playfield.

#2612 11 months ago

They've changed their inserts over the years. If you bought used, you may have a couple of different types.

#2613 11 months ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

Question: Are the default flipper strength settings for Weird Al listed anywhere?

I don't believe so, though there may be something in a support document that I haven't perused yet. If you would like to ensure you're on default settings, the only way I know to do so would be to reset all settings to defaults in System Manager.

However, this is a module-level setting and not an application-specific setting, so I don't recall if resetting your settings will reset the flipper strengths.

Regardless, if you do try this and it does reset the flipper strengths, ensure you check the mezzanine flipper strength. It should be about 16, and may default to 30 if you are an on earlier version of the software.

I -think- that the lower flippers have a default of 24, and the uppers are higher, about 30. Mezzanine is 16, I believe. That said, I don't know for sure so that's just a guess. I don't know what the default reflip strength is on the lower flippers (applies only if you have the flipper upgrade kit installed, which all newer P3s do - otherwise you'll see only a strength setting for the lower flippers). I think the reflip strength default is also 24.

Quoted from arcyallen:

Are the default settings for anything indicated anywhere?

For Drained, the online or paper manual lists the application-specific defaults.

1 week later
#2664 11 months ago

One ball horserace games used 1" (and some 30s games). Typical pitch and bat used 5/8". 1-1/8" was bingo pinball and many games from the 40s and 50s, and 1-1/16" came into fashion in the late 50s/early 60s.

13/16 or 7/8 (can't remember which) was used in roll tilt mechs. The other was likely used in arcade games of some kind.

I have absolutely no idea about 1-1/4".

#2680 10 months ago

A limited quantity of Drained game kits are now available in the online store and will ship today - no deposit required! Credit card ordering is now available for those that prefer that option.

Join the hunt today!

https://foramusementonlygames.com/shop

s192260447720677704_p13_i1_w1080 (resized).pngs192260447720677704_p13_i1_w1080 (resized).png

1 week later
#2696 10 months ago

Thank you for your purchase!

Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Is there any hints or write ups on RITR? Does the landscape ever change? Can you use objects? I locked one ball but have no idea what opened a ball lock…all kinds of questions…

You may wish to read this writeup:
https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/ranger-in-the-ruins-deep-dive-in-depth-overview-of-the-machine-features-rules-and-code/

It was released before I added another few items, and a few other changes.

The landscape itself doesn't change, but there are things that affect other aspects of the game. Most items are instantly used. An item opened the ability to lock a ball.

I'm being intentionally vague because some people find some joy in exploring and discovering the nature of the artifacts.

Quoted from NicoVolta:

Don’t read! More fun to learn as you go.

Like @nicovolta! Thank you as well!

#2720 10 months ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/multimorphic-p3-club/page/22#post-6805214

Kevin posted photos and info from another owner (with their permission) about removing the head. This applies to first gen cab heads (those without lighted speaker panels). I assume that newer heads should be similar, but this info is not specific to newer models (those with lighted speaker panels).

#2737 10 months ago

Speaking as a customer and third party developer/manufacturer that has no ties to Multimorphic (outside of the approval process), my experience has been perhaps the opposite.

I would not tie up a tremendous amount of my family's money or my time in a platform that I didn't believe in or that I felt was unmaintainable - that includes forming a manufacturing company and starting production on a game (and all that that entails) without preorder cash.

As someone that ran an in home repair service for a decade servicing some of what are considered the most challenging games to repair quickly and the most complex (bingos), along with every other era and manufacturer of pinball (I have not yet worked on a Stoner or some of the other pure mechanical manufacturers - there were so many!), I don't find the P3 to be difficult to keep running. In fact, it is a lot more simple to work on than any other pinball game I've touched. Most stuff can be pulled from the game with a connector or two and a couple of screws (if that) and worked on away from the machine. Pretty handy.

I understand and empathize with the frustration, and I am sorry you're having issues.

Glass exploding is unfortunately something that can happen to any game with tempered glass and is not a Multimorphic-specific issue. The way tempered glass works - hitting it on the edge or heating up the edge separately from the center in a cold room (say, with your hands) can cause it to explode. It's an interesting problem that didn't occur with plate glass in much older games. But plate glass is far more dangerous when it breaks, so tempered glass is a necessary evil. Cleaning glass is, thankfully, an area where the P3 can help. The modular nature means you can (hopefully) much more easily clean out the broken glass.

If ordering a replacement sheet from a local shop, you'll want to specify 'no bugs' and 'no logos' or there will be a logo embedded somewhere on the sheet and it will become the bane of your existence as it's all you'll see.

My P3 is currently in a small location (my factory space). It is being hammered on with my personal production copy of Drained, and I also use it for testing updates to my other games that utilize other playfield modules. Usually I run the same game in the factory space for people to bash on (outside of QA which I do on weekends - no one plays customer games except for me, play testing - these are my personal games that I put it for others to play) for a few weeks at a time. It's rare that I do much of anything to any module (aside from cleaning).

There are four pinball games there and the P3 receives the most number of plays by far. Couple that with development plays, and the amount of use my P3 receives is far greater than the average homeowner. Heck, developing a game puts a ton of games on a playfield. I've owned my P3 since 2019, bought it piecemeal when that was still an option, and put far less into maintaining it than I do other (older) games that I own.

I'm not super far from you. So I don't think it's a distance thing.

All that to say, again, I wish you weren't having a tough experience, and I hope you turn a corner shortly and start to just be able to play. Of course that would be the expectation, and there's no reason that couldn't be the case.

#2743 10 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

But they are good, and I do like them.

What's your current favorite add-on game to play?

#2745 10 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Probably RITR (thanks!)

Haha, I was fishing, and it paid off! Thank you! Very glad you're enjoying the game.

Quoted from arcyallen:

I didn't like at all was Flipper Foxtrot.

Sorry you didn't like Flipper Foxtrot - not every game is for everyone, but thank you for giving it a shot!

3 weeks later
#2795 9 months ago

Manually lift the flipper to its apex then hold the button, and do the same on the left side. Does it hold when you let go? Any differences between the two sides? Remove the side target cover (if installed) and check for any mechanical issues when flipping. You're looking for a difference between flips. Perhaps linkage scraping against the upper plastic cover for that assembly?

The support wiki (on multimorphic.com) contains lots of great technical documents, including one about removal and installation of side target assemblies. If you have a mechanical issue, you should follow this document to remove the assembly and make corrections as needed.

2 weeks later
#2810 8 months ago

Four new code updates are available for your games from For Amusement Only Games - earn Medals tied to your profile, enjoy new speaker light kit integrations, enhanced operator audits, new settings to tailor your game experience and more!

Download over WiFi in System Manager, or purchase and download via USB on multimorphic.com for the minigames, and Drained can be purchased at drainedpinball.com.

Drained Update (resized).pngDrained Update (resized).png
FFRE Update (resized).pngFFRE Update (resized).png
RITR Update (resized).pngRITR Update (resized).png
SF Update (resized).pngSF Update (resized).png

2 weeks later
#2827 8 months ago

Holding a red button and pressing start from attract, and before launch of any ball in games where the feature menu is enabled, will open the feature menu.
In this menu, you can do things like connect to Bluetooth headphones/speakers, choose a profile, set a default profile, set game-specific profile options, or, prior to launch, save/load your game. Each save point is named.

In some games, particularly games like northvibe mentioned, Silver Falls, you can use this to create save points in each room. I have used it to store progress on a particularly good ball 1 of Heist. Restored games do not contribute to high score boards on these games.

As far as games with saves, my first project was Quest For Glory, which requires choosing a player profile to start the game. Game saves built into the rules of the game (complete lanes and shoot a scoop to sleep [advance time 1/4 of a day] + save your game -- if you are not eaten by the wildlife by sleeping in the open at night). Restored games do contribute to the high score boards on QFG, since it's a required part of gameplay. Each game has its own design considerations when choosing to implement game saves.

In Flipper Foxtrot, it did not make sense to use the save system. Every game is different.

1 week later
#2849 7 months ago
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:

bolt with a wingnut sitting in the middle of a half full ball trough.

That appears to be the drop target height adjustment screw. It should be installed under the drop target reset plate to allow the drop target to remain level with the playfield when the target is dropped.

When you reinstall it, ensure that a ball can roll over the target and slow rolling balls rolling back over the dropped target will not get hung, and that the drop target can be manually latched when pushing the reset plate attached to the plunger up. Once you are satisfied with the height adjustment, tighten the wingnut to hold it in place.

There is a single drop target on WAMONH located on the left side of the module about 1/3 of the way back. It blocks the entrance to the ticket counter.

#2876 7 months ago
Quoted from Travis82:

Multipmorphic customer support is very responsive - got back to me very quickly, even on a weekend! Thanks!

Always happy to help, glad you're back up and running!

1 month later
#2964 6 months ago

If your P3 is connected to the internet, go to System Manager->Install Update->From multimorphic.com and find Heist and the Heist module driver in the list. When selecting them, your P3 will give you the option to install the update or read the release notes.

Alternatively, download the update from the Software page on multimorphic.com (after login) and save to a USB drive. Plug into the coin door USB slot, go to System Manager->Install Update->From USB.

#2968 6 months ago

Tribonian you may be having connectivity issues - try downloading to a USB stick and installing from there.

4 weeks later
#3043 5 months ago

In the Launcher, open the coin door and enter Settings - for each module you can set a default application to Auto-Launch. This setting will allow you to select from compatible applications for that playfield module.

This setting is only available in the Launcher carousel's settings menu.

When this setting is enabled, the game will count down from 5 before automatically launching. You can interrupt the countdown by opening the coin door. This is also true if you exit to the launcher from a game (for example, if you wish to access Diagnostics or System Manager). You'll need to open the coin door during the countdown to give you the ability to select alternative software.

Make sure you have the latest Launcher software installed 2.5.0.0!

#3048 5 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

I really like it!

Very glad you're enjoying it!

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Hair dryer works too, just make sure it’s the lowest setting

Spot on - in most cases it will uncurl with a bit of weight and a bit of time. You can help it relax a bit with a very low level of heat. Just be sure to keep it moving.

1 week later
#3070 5 months ago

If anyone happens to be near Richmond, VA, a local brewery, Center of the Universe Brewing Company, is having a launch party for Drained today! I'll be there from 12-4 with prizes and giveaways.

PXL_20231020_181442468 (resized).jpgPXL_20231020_181442468 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#3191 4 months ago

Some treats for Drained and Drained Bite-Sized are available to download this morning.

Drained 2.0.0.1:
<Install Drained Module Driver 1.0.0.0>
Fixed - button legend wording on some interfaces now displays correctly.
Fixed - display of final Medal in list.
Fixed - player profile can now be changed before ball launch.

Drained Bite-Sized 1.0.0.1:
<Install Drained Module Driver 1.0.0.0>
Added - Game time now displays in end of game results.
Fixed - Button legend wording on some interfaces now displays correctly.
Fixed - Profile can now be changed before ball launch.
Fixed - Ball search will no longer occur in late-game scenarios pending launch when in 1 or 2 ball play.

2 weeks later
#3198 4 months ago
Quoted from Wariodolby:

What was the fix for the right ramp continuously going up and down on weird Al ?

https://www.multimorphic.com/support/projects/customer-support/wiki/WAMONH_Right_Lift_Ramp

This article details the switch adjustment needed.

#3203 4 months ago

Depending on signal strength and connectivity, that may happen.
I'd recommend either retrying or downloading and installing via USB to prevent a connectivity situation.

#3224 4 months ago

Your photo reminds me: the world needs a Demon Attack P3 game.

3 weeks later
#3250 3 months ago

Note that the above instructions are correct for a P3 with motorized walls and scoops and full illuminated speaker panel (vs the laser cut P3 in a black speaker panel with coil-driven walls and scoops).

For the coil-driven model, the instructions are slightly different. Those have also been documented here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/multimorphic-p3-club/page/22#post-6805214

1 week later
#3290 3 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Multimorphic has them all in stock.

This is true! Except for Drained - which I have in stock here -- https://foramusementonlygames.com/shop

Whether you decide to purchase used or new, your support of For Amusement Only Games, an individual, independent manufacturer is extremely appreciated - thank you to everyone who has purchased or played Drained or the compatible games on the module.

2 weeks later
#3387 74 days ago

To reseat the ribbon cable from above on an upper flipper side target assembly:
Turn off your P3
1) Remove wireform return (5/32" allen wrench)
2) Remove side target cover (5/32" allen wrench)
3) Remove Phillips screw in front hole of side target (directly above the flipper)
4) Remove hex-driven cap screw on rear of side target assembly (behind angled rubber - the cap screw is black, so if you have not removed this before, you may wish to use a flashlight to help locate) (3/16" allen wrench - be cautious not to scratch the polycarbonate surface when unscrewing).
5) Pull free of side, gently, and flip upside-down. Using even pressure, press the black ribbon connector to mate more firmly with the assembly. Apply a small bit of RTV on the ribbon connector to help hold in place if problem persists.

When reassembling, ensure that the ribbon and coil connector are not hanging down over the screen optos. To verify, go to [Diagnostics]->[Ball Tracking].

To reseat from below (no screws required):
Turn off your P3
1) Place the game in Service Position 1 (black crossbrace on lockbar receiver)
2) Depress spring tabs on apron and fold down apron bracket.
3) Unplug large connector on left side of flipper/slingshot assembly.
4) Slide playfield display and poly carbonate surface back through the apron bracket opening about 4 inches.
5) Unplug the power cable and unscrew the integrated DVI connector screws and unplug the DVI cable to the display
6) Push these items out a bit further (ensure they do not fall or fully remove per the next paragraph) so that you can put your hand underneath the side target assembly and press on the ribbon connector inside. The ribbon connector is mounted directly behind the LEDs and is pressed from the side of the cabinet towards the center of the playfield to seat.

You may also (optionally) fully remove the display and playing surface and set aside on a soft towel or other soft surface. When reinstalling, gently insert the display assembly first, then the playfield surface. You may be able to reach the ribbon connector without unplugging the DVI connector, as well.

We have support documents with photos showing how to install these assemblies, if needed, and a brief document describing how to reseat that connector as well, located here: https://www.multimorphic.com/support/projects/customer-support/wiki/Side_Target_LEDs

No matter the method, I would suggest entering [Diagnostics]->[LEDs] and testing the reseating when complete to ensure that all four LEDs on that side cycle through Red-Green-Blue-White.

I hope that helps, though if you need us, feel free to email us at [email protected] - we are happy to help.

#3390 74 days ago

Please email support, and we will be able to review your issue.

If you would like additional parts/parts not available on the website, please email sales.

#3396 72 days ago

There are settings available in Settings-Mechs (in any CCR application, including RITR) that modify the strength of the magnet hold and the VUK that launches to the rear of the ramp. I would suggest changing those (particularly the VUK, though you may wish to bring the magnet strength down a bit) and observing the difference - if it is bouncing back at the top of the arc without falling into the ramp, then a different adjustment would be needed.

If the VUK is not level with the playfield surface, it can also create some side-to-side movement during launches.

#3398 72 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Is it not coming up to the playfield? Just keeps falling down? It’s an alignment issue then.

Also correct! Since this is a staged launcher, it depends on where it is having trouble.

#3401 72 days ago
Quoted from haiderdj:

Officially in the club!

Thank you! I hope you enjoy the only pinball game that allows you to enhance the experience of other players from around the world (or just your machine if not connected to WiFi) when you drain!

#3403 72 days ago
Quoted from hank527:

It’s bouncing right back down from the Vuk

I sent you a PM with support information.

We have a variety of information available on our support site as well. In particular, if the ball is having trouble launching to the playfield level, this section on quick adjustment applies to all new Multimorphic modules, including CCR (this example is WAMONH, but CCR has the same adjustment nuts):
https://www.multimorphic.com/support/projects/customer-support/wiki/WAMONH_VUK_Launches#Quick-adjustment

1 week later
#3435 63 days ago

If you have any interest in Drained, it is available direct at https://foramusementonlygames.com/shop - I have a limited quantity in stock that will ship immediately.

Thanks all for the kind words about RITR and FFRE.

1 month later
#3540 31 days ago

Drained also has on-screen targets - alley pass moons, spiders and rats for side target completion, and bat hurry ups!

#3544 31 days ago

Silver Falls also uses ball tracking virtual targets to turn on/off TVs, arcade games, shower/toilet, and a PC, depending upon room.
There are also many subtle uses of the tracking in every application.

My first game, Quest for Glory, has a knife-throwing mode - wager coin against the chief thief, then take turns throwing knives (pinballs) at physical targets. On the chief thief's turn, the ball is launched but flippers are disabled for the player's control. When an invisible virtual target is hit, the flipper flips.

3 weeks later
#3563 9 days ago

The proper level for the P3 is with all levelers all the way in. Adjust to taste from there.

Next, for your staging issue - it is not usual for the game angle to impact the staging of balls on the upper rail of the trough --
1) Using a hand mirror, you can confirm that there is no debris in the drain VUK in Service Position 1. If so, remove, and problem is likely resolved (though you'll need to inspect for where this foreign object may have come from). If nothing is apparent -
2) See if the jam can be cleared by entering [Diagnostics]->[Coils/Flashers] by pulsing the Drain VUK coil 3x rapidly. If so -
2a) Open the coin door and press launch to enter the Settings Menu. Navigate to Settings->Mechs->Coils->Trough and increase the default Drain VUK pulse time by 2 using the right yellow to confirm, then do the same for Drain VUK stack pulse time (the option directly below the first). Back out of the menus with the left yellow button. Problem is likely resolved.
3) There may be a mechanical alignment issue between a few brackets on the playfield frame. This is very unlikely. If you suspect this to be the case, please create an account at Multimorphic.com (where you'll find our tech documentation), and then email [email protected] from that address and we'll be able to work with you to provide more direction.

My suspicion based on your symptoms is that #2 is the issue. Please let me know if that resolves it!

#3565 8 days ago

Happy to help! I'm part of Multimorphic's support team, and I am also a third party developer/manufacturer for the platform.

We have a wide variety of documentation available on the Multimorphic support site, including information about walls/scoops should you have any questions once you re-sleeve. And of course, you can always ask us via the support email (once you create an account).

#3568 7 days ago

Final Resistance - this can happen if there is a step up between the monitor and walls/scoops. There are adjustment clips mounted under the display. Slide it back (you may have to unplug it/remove it depending) to reveal the white/gray adjusters.

Slide these clips towards the apron to lift the monitor, and towards the backbox to lower it.

There is another possibility if that doesn't work - send us an email if needed!

Topper: See our support document that describes the following options: https://www.multimorphic.com/support/projects/customer-support/wiki/WAMONH_Topper

If you would like to turn off the lamps entirely, you can either unplug it by lowering your speaker panel and revealing the breakout board, then unplug connector J32.

Or you may turn off the brightness for the 'Backbox' LED in Settings-Mechs-LEDs, but you'd need to turn it back on again when playing WAMONH.

#3572 6 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Is this something unique to the newer P3 builds? I have always adjusted the walls/scoops themselves

I believe there was a different solution in place for the machines with coil-driven walls and scoops, however, if your playing surface is even with the aluminium blocks on either side, adjustment of the display/playing surface is not needed.

#3585 3 days ago

Send us an email to support and I'll help you correct that quickly.
We also have the answer on our support wiki.

#3591 2 days ago

You all are really kind, thank you - always happy to help!

I'm really proud to be part of the team.

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