Multi-Races - the Multi One-Ball Horserace Game

(Topic ID: 220523)

Multi-Races - the Multi One-Ball Horserace Game

By bingopodcast

7 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 64 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by bingopodcast
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    There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 40 days ago

    Yesterday, we had some family friends over and I didn't spend any time whatsoever on any of my games, but our visitors did!

    Today, however, on my lunch break, I figured out the minor programming change needed to achieve an over 3000%+ speed improvement on menu loading for my Multi games.

    Tonight I'll be back on either this game or Robo-Frenzy, but a reminder to my friends in this thread - I'll be at TPF with the Multi-Bingo in tow! Come see me and play a game on the new, improved menu system.

    #52 40 days ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Today, however, on my lunch break, I figured out the minor programming change needed to achieve an over 3000%+ speed improvement on menu loading for my Multi games.


    #53 37 days ago

    Desoldered the playfield switches tonight! Getting ready for the big wiring job.

    #54 35 days ago

    Last night I was able to spend a couple of hours wiring.

    First, I stripped the wiring under the shutter.

    IMG_20190111_184655_112 (resized).jpg

    I left the lamp commons intact. I am wiring every lamp to be controllable. While later games used the center lamps for GI, earlier games did not have any GI, and used each lamp as a controlled one. That is, those games with lamps.

    I finished wiring the shutter board (which contains the switches activated by the ball), separately from the playboard. I like this older design. The surf club playfield for the Multi was this way as well. Makes it a bit easier to wire. More difficult to troubleshoot than the error-proof hole switches that Bally used in the later bingos.

    IMG_20190111_215013_073 (resized).jpg

    Today I plan to remove the original playfield, and see if the wiring I made will extend to an appropriate place for wiring in the Jones Plugs. I believe I will need two.

    I also hope to lay out where all of my power supply and relays need to be, as I'm a bit concerned that I may run out of room inside the front door. Hopefully not!

    #55 33 days ago

    Yesterday I removed the original playfield and cabinet plugs, unhooked the knock off switch, and removed the door wiring. I also cleaned the new playfield and placed it into the game.

    The ball return board had a piece that prevents a ball with crazy backspin from dropping into the back of the game. I had to remove this piece to allow the shutter motor to clear the ball return board.

    The wiring does have a single path to push through to the front of the game.

    Nicely, I should be able to run only two pairs of wires and an HDMI/power cable back up to the head.

    I may end up having to remove part of the mechanics from the game, which will prevent dropping the original playfield back in the game to play. I forgot that the backglass would need to be replaced with a monitor... Which is quite a bit thicker than glass.

    IMG_20190112_151559_533 (resized).jpg

    This is the Victory Derby playfield. Notice the metal rails on it - those are really neat centering mechs. The playfield sits on these support rails inside the game, with metal rails underneath to prevent ball traps in the ball return, but also to center the playfield (mechs cannot fit unless the playfield is centered in the cab). I've left those in place (for now) because I really like the design. We will see if I can keep them.

    IMG_20190112_170826_814 (resized).jpg

    Hey, a Turf King playfield in the game!

    #56 29 days ago

    Back to it after a brief Multi-Bingo hiatus. I finished another two games at lunchtime today. Thorobred and Longacres (Longacres is mostly done).

    I decided to handle the selections in a slightly different way, to allow for the more nuanced rules of Victory Derby/Special to work a bit better.

    I will backport those changes as time permits.

    Longacres still needs the field bumpers to be programmed. These are a very interesting feature - hitting the rebound spring above #4 in each section can enable all seven sections for the section indicated on the playfield. To prevent playfield swaps, I will be using the GI lamps as controlled. That will allow me to do ridiculous lamp effects, aside from this one - perhaps a strobing attract mode?

    1 week later
    #57 21 days ago

    Spent about 5 hours today lacing the playfield and routing wires. I am now in the process of wiring the boards.

    Much, much more to go. I do need to wire in Jones Plugs, otherwise, I won't be able to remove the playfield.

    The new board revisions I am using have slightly different pinouts. That made me second-guess a ton of stuff when ordering connectors.

    All that said, lots done, lots more to do!

    IMG_20190126_154220 (resized).jpg

    #58 19 days ago

    Labeled all the wires and laid out my Jones Plugs last night. I believe I also found an ok spot for the plugs to live... above the coin bucket on the right-hand wall.

    I also laid out all the board wiring necessary for my switches. Once those are done, it's a matter of lamps, then coils. Looking forward to getting to that point.

    1 week later
    #59 11 days ago

    I've been wiring, very slowly, and have about 70% of my switch wires done and terminated at Jones Plug and SW-16 boards. I'm in the process of finishing the second (and last) plug needed for the switches, then I will need to visit lamps.

    I made a trip out to Best Buy yesterday to buy some supplies that I will need very soon. Things like a monitor (a 28" is the largest that will fit in the cabinet I am using), and various power-related cabling. For power, instead of adding an external toggle switch, I will add a switch inside the door.

    This toggle will turn all the boards and computer and monitor on all at once. I'll also likely install score/instruction card monitors as I did on the Multi-Bingo, and this toggle will power those as well. For now, though, there will not be score/instruction card monitors.

    Once I have the game basically working, I will start modifying it. I need to install the proximity sensors, which will require that I make a bracket to prevent ball hangups, and I am thinking about installing a bingo-style shooter gate. This gate has a switch inside that will sense when a ball has passed. The one balls did not use this type of gate, but I can use it to prevent a second ball from scoring if I have multiple loaded (for Sunshine Park).

    Tomorrow, I will likely have the switch wiring finished, then can start the cabinet modification to allow the monitor to be installed.

    #60 8 days ago

    All playfield (and cabinet tilt and coin) switches are wired! I've also wired the first 8 lamps. I need another driver board for the last lamp, or will have to make it persistently on...

    Either way, I only have the relays left to wire that will trigger the 120V motors in the game, then the 120V power to each power supply, and finally the 50V wiring to drive a stepper in the backbox.

    THEN, it will be a matter of reconfiguring the backbox to hold the monitor, and replay register, and ensuring those can be unhooked for transport.

    #61 5 days ago

    This weekend, I didn't get quite as far as planned.

    I did however work on the game quite a bit.

    I'm working on the 120V and 50VAC circuits right now, and because of this I am spending a lot of time thinking about how I want the game to be constructed.

    I've got the following coils to wire in, after lots of thinking:
    1) Coin Meter. I am using the original meter as it has only about 500-odd plays. 50V(DC).
    2) Shutter Motor (120VAC driven by 50VDC relay).
    3) Replay register Up 50VDC
    4) Replay register Down 50VDC
    5) 400 unit step 50VDC
    6) Control Unit (50VAC driven by 50VDC relay)
    7) Payout motor (120VAC driven by 50VDC relay)
    8) Payout coil (if needed) 50VDC

    The reason this required a lot of thought was because I needed to make the game modular enough to disassemble and haul around. I also wanted to use exactly the amount of drivers I have on this board, if possible. As I will need a second driver board to handle the last lamp (unless I just make it GI), I'll have plenty of room should I change my mind.

    I have installed the main power cord, which runs to a power strip inside, which will be used to turn on the game. The original was always on, so this is an improvement. I decided against installing a big power switch, as you'll have to go inside the front door anyway to check connections and such after moving the game. We will see if that is a mistake.

    I wired the last of the switches, including the knock off switch. I still have a bank of 8 switches available, which is good, because I have those proximity sensors to wire. I'm waiting until I have the game functional to handle that.

    I also disassembled the backbox so that I could remove/wire in these parts. As with the Multi-Bingo, my dream of allowing backwards compatibility has been smashed. Now the game will only allow Multi-Races play. Not the end of the world, but I really dislike killing a game, even if to make another.

    The backbox components are stored on three shelves, originally. The first contained the 'replay' stuff. The projection credit unit, the 400 unit, and the coin meter.

    The second shelf contained several relays, the transformer panel, and a couple of steppers.

    The last shelf contained the control unit and more relays.

    Now, in my memory, the control unit was on the middle shelf, so I was glad to see it on the lowest one. Saved me a bundle of time.

    The transformer had to be moved to the lower panel because the doggone control unit is 50V - unlike basically any other Bally game with a control unit, ever. The Turf King I have has a 120V control unit, as do every Bally bingo... *Sigh*. Otherwise, I wouldn't need the original transformer. Oh, well.

    I installed a couple of fuse blocks to handle the primary and secondary windings of the transformer, and have picked out spots for the other hardware (mostly along the sides of the head).

    I installed the monitor, along with a few metal and wooden supporting brackets. At the moment, I don't have any glass or Plexi in front of the monitor, which makes me pretty nervous. It is well protected from falling backwards, however.

    I ran the HDMI and power into the lower cab from the monitor, and added strain relief (a knot) and cable latch around the power cable. This is screwed to the interior of the cabinet, just inside the opening for the head. Will allow me to tuck the cable inside the game for movement.

    120V needs to be distributed (along with ground) to my two switching power supplies and the transformer. For this purpose, I got a few three prong extension cords. I'll be cutting them up as needed to prevent excess wire from floating around. I'll need to run a plug into the head to shift that 50VAC and DC to the appropriate spots. I believe 10 positions will do it.

    I've done some desoldering of the old plugs for this purpose (most of my plugs are very large). The old solder is very difficult to remove, however. Thankfully I have my trusty soldering gun and a fresh supply of leaded solder, which I use to help heat up that older stuff. I have flux as well, but the new solder tends to do a faster job of it.

    Otherwise, nothing much has happened. I had hoped to be able to turn it all on this weekend and watch it explode, but I spent way too much time thinking about how I wanted it done, along with other tasks in my gameroom. (New toolbox! Playing pinball with my kids! Hanging up Multi-Bingo playfields on the wall for safe storage and easy swapping!)

    Tomorrow I will hopefully dig up my parts replay register as the one I planned to install is missing both coils and stops. I believe I needed one or more of the reels from the parts one, but I guess I'll find out (been a few years).

    If not, I'll continue wiring the 120VAC circuits. That is a job I do not relish. One must be very careful, but if done right, it only needs be done once.

    A last thought: the original backglass was only held in by two metal clips. Very thin. The panels with mechanics swung out, but the top two had to be removed to gain access to the backglass. It was in VERY poor shape. The majority of the artwork was gone, along with about 95% of the original coloration. I've thought about scraping the remaining bit of art and reusing the glass in front of the TV. Another project.

    #62 1 day ago

    I finished wiring the game last night and couldn't wait to turn it on (and watch it burn).

    It didn't burn! The computer couldn't connect to my network as I had forgotten to install wpasupplicant, and I didn't have any new RJ45 connectors, so everything ground to a halt.

    Here's the stuff I tested (and worked first try!):
    1) Payout relay drives the payout motor. I may need to install one additional switch to inform the game when the slide has paid, but the motor moves the payout shoe, and coins pop out. Can't ask for much more, there.
    2) CU Motor relay drives the control unit. I didn't mention above, but I've had to change my plans for the drivers. I decided to use additional coils on the control unit to allow for 100% accurate sound while playing coins. There are two coils separating cams on the motor. I am now driving those (with 50DC), which allows the CU to turn fully for a certain period of time. It is all timed in my code vs. mechanically, but it should work well.
    3) Shutter Motor relay drives the shutter motor. Seems simple, but this shutter motor takes 120V - always concerning.
    4) P3-ROC boardset boots and no fuses blow, all expected lights illuminate.

    Barring some unforeseen issue with the playfield switch wiring, we should be in good shape - once I adjust the YAML to handle the changes to coil, lamp and switch definitions based on my on-the-fly wiring changes. I've got documentation for each plug, as usual, and each connector, also as usual, so should be in good shape.

    #63 1 day ago

    OK, but what kinda sound system you attaching? I want there to bone-rattling bass of celebration sounds when I make a shot, fanfares as I plunge, suspense as I insert another coin!

    #64 12 hours ago

    Good question - actually, no sound system. I'm using the actual game components to make the appropriate noises.

    It will have extremely accurate sound because of this.

    Last night I pulled my updated code, then tested out my switches and various aspects of my code.

    There are two switches which do not function. I need to see if they are bad crimps or bad solder or something wrong at the plug... But otherwise, the game works very well.

    I had some mistakes in shutter handling, and had to re-address my switches, lamps, and coils, but otherwise it just worked. I am extremely excited by this development.

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