I retrofitted micros that are commonly used in today's pins into the twelve drop targets on my '80 Black Knight because they were just not reliable anymore from taking a pounding (the points and the blades too) over 30 years, but replaced all of the ball lock and trough leaf switches with new leaf switches. Plus that system used only 5 volts for the switches, when I cleaned an original switch it would work for a while but soon start failing again. Williams even offered a retrofit way back then to convert all the lock & trough leaf switches to microswitches because the leaf sws would fail so much from any dirt or whatnot on the switch points. So far they are all working without fail and I bought a few extra micros and leaf switches just in case. Really this is the only game I ever owned where I had to replace ANY gold-contact leaf switches at ALL. I don't think that 5 volt system was the best design.

I wanted to go with micros only if I could use the existing screw holes for the old switches and they were common off the shelf parts, these worked. Had to do a lot of manual bending/ tweaking/ snipping of the actuator wires to get the open/closed positions perfect and be sure they were well clear of the reset bar whether the wire was up or down, took into account screw heads at certain positions on the banks, and L mount vs R mount. Had to snip a little off one sharp corner of the plastic mounts so they would be clear of a raised bracket edge but no big deal.

I thought micros were better here than leafs, the drops really slam down on them and they were exposed to dirt fouling them (the 'only 5 volts' issue). And I wanted to try something a little different. Could be done better & easier as far as tweaking the actuator wires go, like leaving the ends just plain straight, and maybe put a plastic or rubber spacer on the end where it contacts the target instead of bending the ends around, but they work flawlessly. Anyway, MRS switches would definitely NOT work here. Probably IS no pin you could 'entirely' MRS or even come close to it.

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I can see where a lit translucent star rollover like on EBD could be a problem. Basically an insert with the added spring-loaded star. Would still want the old switch there as the spring, not interfere with the moving star piece and also not make it look yucky with the MRS visible thru the insert or blocking the light. Doesn't seem like it could be as flush as on a rollover.