Do the lights flicker in the lamp test? Are the dip switch settings the same on the two boards?
(Topic ID: 81559)
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You could try switching U10 and U11 (PIAs) and see if the problem goes away or the problem changes. If so the PIA in U10 is bad.
I am a big fan of replacing those leaf sockets with machined pin. So maybe, depending on your desoldering skills and equipment. You can dig a deeper hole fast if you get too much heat or not enough heat on the pads. Great soldering tutorials here:
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/tutorials/167-soldering-tutorials
I would start with the basics first:
Swap in new blubs
Check the switched illumination voltage on the MPU
Recheck your work
After that it could be failing resistors or capacitors feeding the lamp board. Checking the caps can be done with a DMD. Look for one that is different from the others of the same value. I think this game also an aux. lamp board too.
OK. I’m thinking it is AD1 to the decoders. So on the MPU that would be:
J1 pin 14
R71
C42
U10 pin 3
Quoted from parkway:Ok. How do I go about testing if this is the case? Thank you for all your help so far too.
J1 pin 14 - Check your work. Follow the traces looking for problems. Check connector.
R71 - Compare resistance to other resistors. replace
C42 - replace
U10 pin 3 - new socket
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