(Topic ID: 226538)

Mr Doom Recel Homebrew/ restore

By davrol

5 years ago



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    1 Mr Doom underside (resized).jpg
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    #1 5 years ago

    What Have I got myself into! Purchased a good and working Gottlieb Class of 1812 6 months ago and now I've got a rusty old Mr doom playfield, the wifes not happy, "that's not staying in the house", she said!

    I've been inspired by Frogger 1108 Recel Underwater pin https://www.hackster.io/Frogger1108?f=1. I like that it seems kind of straight forward to achieve (i might be very wrong). My pin is a Recel Mr Doom from 1979 and is in the same kind of era as Underwater, not a EM but SS. It looks like the game play would have been much the same. I think there might have been some kind of lotto bonus at the end of the game but still doing research on the finer details.

    I'm not a electrician or programmer but I think I'm learning enough to achieve a playable game someday (with maybe a little help). I'm going down the Arduino root at the moment. I've cleaned the playfield as much as I can, replaced most of the rubbers and clean the contacts to the switches. I'm having a slight issue that some of the screws on the underside of the playfield have rusted and break off at the head so i'm trying to service most of the mechanics without taking them off.

    Today I traced the original wiring for the general illumination and added a 5v power supply to both wires replaced the old lamps with LEDs (great to have some light) and I also managed to send a low to high command into the Arduino from one of the rollover switches (that's a big deal for me).

    All I'm doing at the moment is trying to understand the best root forward. When I first wired the roller over switch to the Arduino, it went straight to high, it was only when only when I isolated it from the loom that it worked low to high. I was hoping that there was a way of using the original loom? I've check all of the connections and all have good continuity to the multiplxer but would it be better to loose the loom and just go straight into Arduino? Most of the switches share a ground and there's about three different loops for the switches that go down to the multiplexer.

    My main question for now is, should I loose the loom and create a new one to Arduino like Frogger 1108 or can I use the loom? Maybe I could use it for the solenoids? pop bumpers, slingshots. and should I forget about the multiplexer. any advice would be great.

    1 Mr Doom playfield brfore (resized).jpg1 Mr Doom playfield brfore (resized).jpg1 Mr Doom underside (resized).jpg1 Mr Doom underside (resized).jpg3 mr doom with light (resized).jpg3 mr doom with light (resized).jpg4 Mr doom Multiplexer (resized).jpg4 Mr doom Multiplexer (resized).jpg
    #3 5 years ago

    Thanks for that and giving me the things to look for (decoder switch matrix, another thing to find out about). I'm really a beginner at all this so the schematics tend to fry my brain but can I can see the routes on the from the playfield to plexiboard and it is starting to make some scene. I think the English one is a general guide to the system 3 so is very helpful and my wife speaks Spanish so she can help with the other.(she hates me asking her to translate).

    Today I've traced and tested all of the switches and everything talks to the Ardunio except for the spinner, the switch works but not when I spin it, I'll need to take off some bits on the playfield to get to it. I've taken the plexiboard off to have a look and does look fairly corroded on the contacts but streams seem ok. I've traced the switches from in to out and they appear to have continuity from one male molex to the other. I still have some reservations about using it but will definitely be using the loom. I've never used my multi-meter so much.

    I'm going to look at the scoring and rules. I presuming that the switches that share the same wires would give the same score. I'm still a little confused about the coding side. I would like to get it as close to the original as possible and maybe another version with music and voices. I'm a big hammer horror fan so I have been thinking about that as a 2nd theme.

    I'll start looking at the score lights and try and tie them into the switches. If I can use the mulipex driver I will, I need to look at the switch matrix but I still have so much to learn and terrified about powering up the coils.

    If anyone has any advice about the switch matrix decoder from the plexiboard to the arduino it would be a great help?

    I'm thinking I might need another Arduino mega.

    plexi back (resized).jpgplexi back (resized).jpgplexi front (resized).jpgplexi front (resized).jpg
    #5 5 years ago

    Fantastic, That's amazing, just what I needed.
    I have noticed a few components missing from the board but I think I can deal with that. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

    4 weeks later
    #6 5 years ago

    RIGHT! I'M NOW GETTING GETTING SOMEWHERE, switches working coil driver board working and now the all GI and score lights light up.

    Stupid question but I have the 2 power point type solenoids on my flippers, when I power them via my 24v power supply they continually flip on and off instead of holding when powered. Should I be building a driver board for the flippers or should I be able to power directly from a PS. the same happens to my sling shots once triggered the go mad as well.

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