(Topic ID: 325336)

Mr and Mrs Pac-man No start, No GI, Blows F2, F3, F4 Immediately.

By dpapclare

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by dpapclare
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#1 1 year ago

Hey everyone, just wondering where I should start in regards to this no start issue I am having.

When I turn the switch on, it immediately blows the F2 fuse. I have no GI and do not see any flashes on the MPU. The Squawk and Talk gets two flashes and nothing else.

What I do have is one light turning on in the display glass and the coin door lights turning on. Nothing on the playfield though. Where should I start? This is my first time working with a no start condition.

Thanks in Advance!

#2 1 year ago

Update, game is now blowing F4 as well and the large capacitor on the original SDB popped. Where should I look first.

#3 1 year ago

Another update, game is now also blowing F3 Fuse. Assistance is greatly needed

#4 1 year ago

I dunno, but I might recommend starting at the source of power. How's the power cord look coming in? Is the varistor on the line filter blown?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from rockwell:

I dunno, but I might recommend starting at the source of power. How's the power cord look coming in? Is the varistor on the line filter blown?

I'll take a look.

Seems to be blowing the fuses when J3 on the SDB is connected. Doesn't otherwise. The connector has not been touched since the issue started and it worked properly before. Wondering if there are specific spots to be checking on the SDB right off the bat.

#6 1 year ago

I guess next I would just make sure that the Rectifier Board tests good. Try unplugging the output connectors and just leave the Transformer Input connectors plugged in and power up and test your voltages.

#7 1 year ago

I'd start by changing the 2 bridge rectifiers on the power supply board in the bottome of the cabinet. If they're original, they're 40 yrs old and need changed anyways.
Then check voltages coming into the SDB. Change all 3 caps on the SDB and do the ground mods per Pinwiki.

Also something else to check; If your power supply is missing the shield in the bottom of the cabinet; screws, nuts, solder blobs can fall directly onto that baord and short just about anything. Be sure that board is nice and clean with no debris. I'd still swap out the original bridge rectifiers.

I always start every reapir with establishing a good power supply.

#8 1 year ago

The GI is actually computer controlled in this game. Unless the MPU boots, you'll only see coin door and a light in the score display. The GI routes through an aux driver board on the top left underside of the playfield. (Top as in when you lift it out)

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I'd start by changing the 2 bridge rectifiers on the power supply board in the bottome of the cabinet. If they're original, they're 40 yrs old and need changed anyways.
Then check voltages coming into the SDB. Change all 3 caps on the SDB and do the ground mods per Pinwiki.
Also something else to check; If your power supply is missing the shield in the bottom of the cabinet; screws, nuts, solder blobs can fall directly onto that baord and short just about anything. Be sure that board is nice and clean with no debris. I'd still swap out the original bridge rectifiers.
I always start every reapir with establishing a good power supply.

Thanks for the info! I swapped out the power supply board with a known working one and had no change in issue, will report back after I perform the work you mentioned!

Thanks for the info about the GI as well. I was wondering what was up with that!

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from rockwell:

I guess next I would just make sure that the Rectifier Board tests good. Try unplugging the output connectors and just leave the Transformer Input connectors plugged in and power up and test your voltages.

Okay, will report back my findings this evening. Thanks!

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