(Topic ID: 252594)

Mr. and Mrs. Pac Man fell on hard times!

By 72Devilz

4 years ago


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  • 118 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by 72Devilz
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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There are 118 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

I really enjoy this game, of the poor games listed in the cellar of the inside 100, strangely they made more pacman then any other ones.
The theme must have carried it.
The pac maze for me is no more distracting than the video modes in the newer games

I like the whole idea and for a game that went into design in 1980 the digital maze game was ahead of its time. Not sure if it’s the first such mini game idea using playfield lights but it sure works into the theme!

#52 4 years ago

Are you putting the led maze in?
I agree definitely ahead of its time. If you are a Mrs pac or pac fan I would think this one keeps you interested

#53 4 years ago

I ordered a 10 pack of regular bulbs for the time being. I will probably order the LED maze after I finish the project.

#54 4 years ago

Lower playfield fill and detail. I opted to fill in the bare wood area around the playfield data display and did my best to blend it in with the railing posts on either side. The brown was impossible to match as it’s yellow with a translucent brown layer on top, the depth of color changes from bottom to top (classic brown near the outhole to an almost gold-ish near the pop bumpers) so I just filled in the missing paint with my best match and used the planking pattern to emphasize wood grain in those brown areas. Did some side lane color fill and some top right paint chip wear repairs. Need to make a stencil for the PAC-MAN SPECIAL wording around the light insert below the center pop bumper and upper PAC - MAN AGGRESSIVE insert.
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#55 4 years ago

It’s come a long way in the past 25 hours of work over 18 days. Just a few more details and then the long wait for full cure begins.
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#56 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

fear I’d cause more damage trying to remove the Mylar so I’ve decided to just leave it.

I have used 3 methods to remove mylar.
The High Speed I am restoring right now had the mylar put on after it was worn and on top of the dirt and crud.

I have used goo gone and a plastic spatula. Tedious but good enough for the small ones around pop bumpers or in front of slings.
Heat: not a fan of this method.
Freezing: This one worked the best for me.
on High Speed I poured a few drops of liquid refrigerant on the mylar and it pulled right off. You still have to remove the adhesive though.

#57 4 years ago

72DevilZ
That is quite a difference. NICE WORK!
Saved a game from the scrape pile.

#58 4 years ago

Could be a good topper.

utica.craigslist.org link

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#59 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Could be a good topper.
utica.craigslist.org link[quoted image]

I currently have this animated LED clock which I picked up on Amazon last year for $30, seems they are very hard to find now!

#60 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

I currently have this animated LED clock which I picked up on Amazon last year for $30, seems they are very hard to find now!

I have one of those I picked up off Ebay a few years back, cracks me up because it doesn't keep very good time. My 30? year old Budweiser LED clock is spot on though.

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I have one of those I picked up off Ebay a few years back, cracks me up because it doesn't keep very good time. My 30? year old Budweiser LED clock is spot on though.

I totally agree and it looses time when it gets unplugged but the animation is awesome, mine has been running non stop in my game room since I bought it. I wish there was a way to hack this thing to add more or different animation. Great idea with poor execution.

#62 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

I totally agree and it looses time when it gets unplugged but the animation is awesome, mine has been running non stop in my game room since I bought it. I wish there was a way to hack this thing to add more or different animation. Great idea with poor execution.

No I don't mean it loses the correct time when the power goes off I literately mean it slowly loses track as the weeks progress. One week off one min, next week 2 etc. I don't care as it was purchased mainly for the animation and the Bud clock keeps perfect time.

#63 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

No I don't mean it loses the correct time when the power goes off I literately mean it slowly loses track as the weeks progress. One week off one min, next week 2 etc. I don't care as it was purchased mainly for the animation and the Bud clock keeps perfect time.

Yes, mine has the exact problem as well as loosing time when power goes out. Like you I just let it run animation, I don't care if the time is correct.

#64 4 years ago
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#65 4 years ago

Installed LED back box lighting, what a huge improvement!

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#66 4 years ago

Can you show a pic of your back box LED lighting? Looks great

#67 4 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

Can you show a pic of your back box LED lighting? Looks great

I used CW 12vdc strip lights, hot glued to the inside of the back box and tied into the switched AC at the power supply with a 9.5vdc power supply. I found it was a little bright with a 12vdc power supply. I do get a slight shadow at the bottom due to the frame the glass sits in but I think I’ll cover the aluminum with some white paper to help reflect some light forward to tame that shadow down.

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#68 4 years ago

Nice backglass lighting mod! Thanks for all of your details. I'll be doing this to mine for sure.
~Steveo

#69 4 years ago

Backlit flipper buttons added. I’m trying to find other things to mod because I’m not looking forward to making the stencils for the last bit of Playfield work.

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#70 4 years ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Nice backglass lighting mod! Thanks for all of your details. I'll be doing this to mine for sure.
~Steveo

Please share pictures and if you find a way to fully eliminate the bottom shadow without compromising the inner door operation please share! I thought about mounting the strip on the inner door but I was afraid of LED hot spotting. LED neon tube may be the way to go to install directly to the inner door.

#71 4 years ago

I have three of these Mr/Mrs to go through, but I will not be able to get to them until sometime next year. They are all working projects in various stages of cosmetic/mechanical needs. The plan is to go through them simultaneously. Anyway, regarding the leds in the backbox, maybe a diffuser mounted to the bottom edge of the metal swinging panel might work.... just a thought.

Thanks for documenting your Mr/Ms progress.
~Steveo

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#72 4 years ago

Well it was a little nerve racking but I got the stencil right on the second cut. I was worried that I’d get paint lift but even after hard pressing the stencil down no paint came up!

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#73 4 years ago

What type of printer is that? It worked quite well
I need to do that for meteor... not sure if I can

#74 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

What type of printer is that? It worked quite well
I need to do that for meteor... not sure if I can

It is a Brother Design-N-Cut, it works very well but the software is pretty lousy and hard to learn however once you figure out its quirks it gets easier to use. I designed the stencil @ 300 DPI in Photoshop and used an online tool convert the JPG to a SVG file that the cutter required then sized it from there. I used low tack masking tape which the cutter had no problems cutting. Note: If applying to an uneven repaired playfield its best to use thicker enamels, I used my acrylic paint pens with the first try and the paint was too thin and it ran into the deeper grooves on the playfield which I had to clean up in order to make my second attempt. These printers can cost around $250 - $300, if thats a little steep for you drop me a message and maybe I can help you out on the stencil cutting side.

#75 4 years ago

The cost of the printer isn’t bad.. I just don’t know if I could handle the steps.
Pretty cool the way you got that to work. Appreciate you taking the time to explain the process

#76 4 years ago
#77 4 years ago

Just found this thread. Really impressed with your work! I know people say "All for a Mr. and Mrs. Pac Man" but I gotta tell ya, perfect machine to start learning on. Nice general areas, plus fine art work and text to try.

#78 4 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

If you are looking for a light strip dimmer, these work great:
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the link, I'm totally ordering one of those!

Quoted from RonSS:

Just found this thread. Really impressed with your work! I know people say "All for a Mr. and Mrs. Pac Man" but I gotta tell ya, perfect machine to start learning on. Nice general areas, plus fine art work and text to try.

Thank You RonSS, this is the 6th machine I've done paint repairs on and this is by far the biggest job by a long shot! I figured I had nothing to loose since the Playfield was so blown to begin with, it should hold out well till I come across a replacement or overlay someday.

#79 4 years ago

Last stencil work complete on the upper Pac Man insert and now I wait for the paint to fully cure. While not perfect I’m pretty darn happy with how it turned out! It sure has come a long way from what it looked like 30 days ago!
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#80 4 years ago

Indeed, what a great job you did.
Enjoy the game.

Yves

#81 4 years ago

Outstanding work sir! Inspiring!

#82 4 years ago

Amazing difference. Game looks great!

#83 4 years ago

Looks awesome.. Did you say if you are going to cover the touchups with anything ?

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Looks awesome.. Did you say if you are going to cover the touchups with anything ?

I used mylar on the touchups I did on Star Trek, came out awesome.

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#85 4 years ago

When you use Mylar is I better to juSt cut the size you need or lay down a larger piece

#86 4 years ago

Fantastic job! Looks great!

#87 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

Last stencil work complete on the upper Pac Man insert and now I wait for the paint to fully cure. While not perfect I’m pretty darn happy with how it turned out! It sure has come a long way from what it looked like 30 days ago!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks amazing!! Mr and Mrs Pac-Man is a great title that’s overlooked probably due to the fact that most are so beat up. Truly and amazing job!!

#88 4 years ago

I will pay you DOUBLE what you paid for it!

You are an inspiration. I'm trying minor touch ups and they look like finger painting!!!

#89 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSS:

I will pay you DOUBLE what you paid for it!
You are an inspiration. I'm trying minor touch ups and they look like finger painting!!!

I don’t get it. When I do touch ups every brush hair leaves a line. I can’t figure out how to get it that smooth. Is it the cheap ass brush or unskilled painter

#90 4 years ago

Sounds like the paint needs to be thinned, so you’re ‘pushing’ the paint around, instead of brushing the paint on.

Jody

#91 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Looks awesome.. Did you say if you are going to cover the touchups with anything ?

Still haven’t decided, the enamels I use cure very hard and the machines I’ve repaired have shown no wear in the past 5 years however none of those repairs are close to the overall size of this one. I’ll probably leave it be for awhile to see how things wear and this gives me the opportunity to do future touch ups.

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

I don’t get it. When I do touch ups every brush hair leaves a line. I can’t figure out how to get it that smooth. Is it the cheap ass brush or unskilled painter

I tend to use my enamels on the thick side and after a couple hours or day I will work the area with a magic eraser which breaks down any high spots or paint lines and then repaint if necessary. My acrylic paint pens tend to be on the thin side and work well to fill areas without leaving lines however it does take longer to dry before I can work the area with the magic eraser.

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSS:I will pay you DOUBLE what you paid for it!
You are an inspiration.

Considering I paid $150 for the machine you’d be getting a heck of a deal after I spent about 27 hours and countless cuss words on the thing! Thanks for the kind words of encouragement!

#94 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

I tend to use my enamels on the thick side and after a couple hours or day I will work the area with a magic eraser which breaks down any high spots or paint lines and then repaint if necessary. My acrylic paint pens tend to be on the thin side and work well to fill areas without leaving lines however it does take longer to dry before I can work the area with the magic eraser.

Thanks that’s very helpful. I needed a way to smooth the ridges.

#95 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

When you use Mylar is I better to juSt cut the size you need or lay down a larger piece

In this case I wished to preserve an area as large as possible as these Trek playfields tend to blow out in the center. Here is what the mylar looked like before I pulled the backing.

Here is also another angle so you can see the install edges.

I also did just "spots" in other high wear areas. You can see in the next shot where I hand painted the lower parts of the "AB" in the upper orbit and then sealed the lane in mylar. It came out beautiful and plays fast.

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#96 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

In this case I wished to preserve an area as large as possible as these Trek playfields tend to blow out in the center. Here is what the mylar looked like before I pulled the backing.
Here is also another angle so you can see the install edges.
I also did just "spots" in other high wear areas. You can see in the next shot where I hand painted the lower parts of the "AB" in the upper orbit and then sealed the lane in mylar. It came out beautiful and plays fast.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It looks like you had some plank lines or some uneven spots. How did you get the Mylar to sit down so well? My fear of attempting Mylar is that it would lift out of the low spots over time and even attempting to remove Mylar at a later date from a repaired play field such as mine would pretty much reduce it back to the original blown out state. Your job turned out great, it looks fantastic!

#97 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

It looks like you had some plank lines or some uneven spots. How did you get the Mylar to sit down so well? My fear of attempting Mylar is that it would lift out of the low spots over time and even attempting to remove Mylar at a later date from a repaired play field such as mine would pretty much reduce it back to the original blown out state. Your job turned out great, it looks fantastic!

Made sure it was at a good room temp (fairly warm) and use a cushioned wall paper roller to make sure it laid down even. After I did the initial, I went over it with a heat gun evenly so it got pretty warm and settled in nice. The playfield was waxed before hand as well which I'm told helps and makes the mylar removable. Other areas I did not even bother with the wax I was comfortable enough working with it by then.

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Made sure it was at a good room (fairly warm) and used a cushioned wall paper roller to make sure it laid down even. After I did the initial, I went over it with a heat gun evenly so it got pretty warm so it settled in nice. The playfield was waxed before hand as well which I'm told helps and makes the mylar removable. Other areas I did not even bother with the wax I was comfortable enough working with it by then.

Good info, I was going to ask if you used heat, that Mylar laid down nicely. Great idea on the wax!

#99 4 years ago

Installed dedicated 12vdc power supply for LED back box lighting and under cabinet LED accent lighting. Dimmer installed for back box circuit.

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#100 4 years ago

Those are some ugly drop targets! I’ll give the previous owner(s) credit on repair creativity though! Toothpicks and hot glue FTW!

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