This could be very serious damage. Since the game won't boot, start by removing the sound board. Check power supply test points and fuses. If you are very lucky, a fuse might have blown. If the fuses and power supply voltages check ok, then try to boot the game without the sound board. Hopefully the dashboard boots. If it does not, then you will be troubleshooting that board. If it boots, then it's the sound board that is holding up the game from booting. Depending on what exactly shorted you could have a lot of ICs damaged, to the point where it is irreparable. Just an honest assessment. Good luck.

You'll be able to get the game going again, but it may indeed require a few new boards. wayout440 is an excellent tech, def follow his advice moving forward.

I'd begin with his suggestion to start pulling fuses and checking them for continuity with your meter. There's several fuses on the board sitting on the bottom of the cabinet (the "Power Module Board"). This is also a good opportunity to verify that you have the correct fuses installed in the game if you haven't already.

As also suggested, try unplugging the sound board and see if the game boots. I think you may have already tried it, but do so if you haven't.

What is the LED on the MPU doing when you turn on the game? What kind of boards do you have in the game currently?

It sucks to have something like this happen, but we've all been there one time or another. You'll get you're game back up and running! Just gonna take some time, money, and patience. As long as you're ready to learn a few things and carefully follow the sage advice of techs like @wayout440, you'll get there!

I think we're talking about the same board. I believe yours is located on the bottom of the cabinet?

Either way, the fuse values are likely listed on the board. Pull each one out and set your meter to check continuity. If you want to send a pic of your meter i can point out exactly which setting we want. Most meters will make a beep with the continuity function, so when you touch the ends of the probes together you'll get a beep out of the meter. You want to set it to that function, hold each of the meters probes on either end of the fuse you're checking (again, pull the fuse out of the holder to check it) and the meter should beep if the fuse is good.

Also look closely at the caps of the fuse and see if you can determine the amperage and type of each one. They will usually say something like 3A 250V and some other abbreviations as well. Make sure the amps match up with the ratings listed on the board you're pulling them from.

Here's the setting you want to put it on. I'm pretty sure you'll get a beep from it when detects continuity. Put it on this setting and touch the probes together and see if it beeps. If it works, proceed to test the fuses by placing a probe on both ends of the fuse and listen for the beep.

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Also, it's important to note that fuses come in 2 main varieties on pinball machines: slow blow (also known as MDL) and regular/fast blow (also known as AGC). You do not want to mix them up! The labeling on the board or schematic will specify slow blow where they are used, otherwise you can assume fast blow/regular fuses are used.

Also, black lead plugs into the center plug labeled COM, red leaf plugs into the port too the right of that one.

What a relief that must be! Glad you're back to booting up properly.

Were any of the fuses that you pulled out incorrectly rated? Was F3 the only one you found blown?

Have you tried running the coil test in the diagnostics? Do the other non-flipper coils fire in coil test (or in gameplay)?

Congrats Bennyv07 you got lucky averting disaster! Thanks frunch for the props. Bennyv07 just take it slow, read a lot and post your questions here. Keep in mind that mistakes happen most often when we are in a hurry. You'll get it it going. We're all here to help.

Besides checking the fuses, most older flipper systems transfer power through the cabinet switches and EOS switches. These circuits are energized all the time (voltage) and the cabinet switch provides a path to ground for current flow. You can use a meter to check these, and perhaps post a photo of these areas. Let us know what clues you find and we can help you troubleshoot. Your meter is your best friend, check for the presence of solenoid voltage at the fuses and cabinet switches.

Great stuff!! Congrats on finding the culprit! Quite a rollercoaster of events over the past day lol! So yeah, let's continue troubleshooting your remaining issues on the other thread.

wayout440 please feel free to join us if you like, in the other thread we're diagnosing a couple locked on lamps (prior to this issue). Seems like a bad SCR, but we're yet to install a new one. Thanks for all the help you provide on the forums!