Was working on a switch and seeing if it would register after I installed it and it slipped out of my hand and touch a coil. I know I had a blown U20 and ASIC chip. I replaced the U20 i had extra and the horrible screeching went away and I took the ASIC chip out and tried it in a working MPU and the game didn't work. I put the working one in this MPU and still nothing SO I know I have some other blown chip and who know what else. Anyone interested in taking a look at this?

PM Sent

So I tested the RD DRiver board that was in the game and it worked. I found out the MPU was bad as the U20 blew and the ASIC chip was also bad. I wanted to get this up and running bought a new RD Mpu (ill have Chris H. fix the orig later) finally have time to get it going tonight and still nothing. I have no Display, limited GI and 0 D20 lit on the New RD MPU. Any suggestions on what I am missing?? The only thing I had to use from old board was the U6 and U4, I can't believe either of those went bad.

Right now this is what I know. I confirmed the Driver board (which is a new RotDog Driver as i put it in the Shadow and it plays fine). I just got the new RD MPU89 and swaped the U6 and U4 over. I assume the brand new RD MPU89 is working fine but I didn't check b/c its brand new and RD has never failed me in the past.

1) I checked the pins on U6 and U4, I installed them properly and in the correct direction.

2) I just unplugged everything put the power wire from the MPU, Sill no D20 I have a solid D19 and a solid D20

3) The RD Driver board has LED's for all the voltages and the Driver board is getting all the correct voltages.

voltages read going into the MPu from bottom to top J210 PIN 7 =+17, PIN 6= +17, PIN 5= +5, PIN 4= +5 on the main power connector. Could I have a Jumper issue? CLays guid says 1meg at U6 needs to go out of W1 into W2. the RD MPU89 defaults with the Jumper W1 going out and into W1 from the looks of it.

_{Post edited by kporter946286: added more detail}

Here is the default Jumper set up.

mpu089-bu-w1-2_1.jpg

I think I am over thinking this. I believe the default is W1 In and W2 out which is set up for the larger meg games. The BOP uses the 1meg 27010 and I think I just need to move the jumper over. If anyone can confirm this that would be great. I won't be getting to this till tomorrow.

I did unplug everything. The sticker on the RD board says tested 01/15. I will try a known working processer and another game rom as you suggest to rule that out. Why does Clays guide says my chip requires W1 out W2 in then? I checked the # on it and it changes for the next batch of roms to W1 in W2 out. Remeber this is and old old first round of WPC games.

From Clay

1meg (27010) W1 out W2 In (this is the chip I am using)
2+4meg (27020+27040) W1 in W2 out (this is how the RD board comes standard) "Only on very early WPC games using smaller 1meg EPROMs (Funhouse, Harley Davidson, Bride of Pinbot) this can be a problem"~Clay

Thanks its a 1meg 27010. I'll do some troubleshooting later and update. Thanks guys

My Orig MPU looks like W1 out W2 in like for the smaller older meg

WP_20150228_13_35_09_Pro.jpg

looks like its both the U6 AND U4 were blown. I put my shadow's Proc and Rom in and it booted. I tried combinations and it must have blown both the U6 and the U4

you arn't shitting me. I know that U20 the ASIC, U6 and U4 all gone. I need someone to send me a new ROM chip for BOP. I don't think I can reuse this one. Anyone on this thread able to Burn me a new BOP rom and if so have any blank rom Chips? I bought a ROM burner a while back never had a reason to use it and now when I need it can't find the Blank ROM's I bought. So I would like to purchase 1 ROM with the BOP burned on it and a few blanks for me to practice and learn for future. P.S. I did have a couple extra 6809'S so I have that locked and loaded just need the BOP ROM.

Cool thanks!!