(Topic ID: 148510)

MPU - 1978 Playboy

By Poundin44

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

Folks, I'm new to this so please be patient. Just got a 1978 Playboy Bally's Pinball and prior owner thinks the MPU is bad. Alkaline spill out of battery. The existing MPU board is labeled as AS-2962-3. If I need to purchase a replacement MPU, would the following be the right board? [ ULTIMATE Bally & Stern MPU board which replaces AS-2518-35 or AS-2518-17, AS-2518-133, AS-2962-7, A084-91603-AA44, MPU100 or MPU200 MPU board] ?

I'm not sure if the AS-2962-3 is the original board, but the manual says it should have been an AS-2518-17 or AS-2518-35. I also would like to know if its a straight swap of boards or if there is some other modifications that would be necessary. My brother (great with circuit boards) and I are going to trouble shoot per the manual this weekend (5V, 11.9V) but the guy I got it from was pretty darn sure the MPU is bad. So I wanted to get a head start on the right part. Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

#2 8 years ago

You have a -35 mpu, the silk screen print probably just flaked off. The alltek MPU will work with Playboy. The severity of battery corrosion depends on if the original MPU is worth repairing, parting out or trash canning. A good picture and we can tell.

#3 8 years ago

these boards are the most repairable depending the damage. A picture is a good idea here. OTOH the altek boards are excellent if you have to spend the money.

I just recently bought a refurb board for stern meteor from barakandl and it was an excellent deal.

#4 8 years ago

actually there's a sticker that says AS-2962-3 but maybe the -35 is under the sticker. Pictures attached

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#5 8 years ago

that battery damage is fairly contained to the ground area on the outside. remove the board and cut out the battery before it gets worse.

probably worth fixing

#6 8 years ago

when you say worth fixing I'm assuming you mean replacing battery and any nearby damaged components (if any)?

#7 8 years ago

Worth fixing as in it will need....

Desoldering every header pin sans j5, every used IC socket, every component with corrosion on it.
Physically removing ALL the corrosion from traces. This means abrasive cleaning down to bare clean copper.
Sealing all cleaned traces with new solder or some other way. Solder is ideal IMO.
Adding all new IC sockets and headers
Jumpering for two 2732 EPROMs at u2 and u6
NVRAM or lithium battery

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