(Topic ID: 253732)

MPU 100 Don't boot on first try

By oldschoolbob

4 years ago


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    There are 252 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.
    #101 4 years ago

    Do you remember whether the other switches connected to U2 still worked? i.e. is anything hooked up to U2 working?

    There's a function table in this datasheet for the 74HC4051 which can give you an idea what it does and if there's anything common to the signals not working.
    https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MC74HC4051-D.PDF

    #102 4 years ago

    The switches connected to U2 worked. So U2 (or at least parts of it) is working.

    I'm trying to make a road map of the connections. Hopefully this will help me understand what's going on.

    I made a screen capture of the switches from page 8 of the schematics. I wanted to get everything on one page so it didn't come out very clear. I circled all the U2 connections and indicated what pin they are going to. The only pattern I see is U2 P4 , P5 and P6 are connected to the non-working pots and not connected to any switches.

    The connections not circled are going to U3. But all seven pots center connections are going to seven different pins on U3. Next I'll map out U3.

    I'm still studying the datasheet for 4051. So far it's over my head.

    Thanks

    Bob

    front U2 (resized).jpgfront U2 (resized).jpg
    #103 4 years ago

    Bob,

    The 4051 is pretty straightforward. Depending on the the level on A,B,C lines, it will select one of the X0-X7 inputs/outputs and connect it to the X (common) pin. Let's say you want the signal to go from X3 to the X (common), you would set Enable to low, set Select C, B, A to low, high, high (respectively). I highlighted this below in red and yellow. Want the X0 to X (common) connection? Set Enable to low, set C, B, A to low, low low - and so forth. Don't want any connections? Set the Enable to High to disable all the switches. You can have only one (or none) connection (i.e. you can't have X1, X2 on at the same time).

    Think of it this way: It's just 8 switches (X0-X7) that go to a common connection (X). To pick what switch you want, set the the Select (i.e. the address) C, B, A appropriately along with having the Enable low.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #104 4 years ago

    Thanks for that Mark, you saved me some typing
    Bob, now with that info and the fact that X4, X5 and X6 at U2 are having problems (X7 isn't connected), do you see anything that's common to them based on the function table in Marks picture?

    #105 4 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Thanks for that Mark, you saved me some typing
    Bob, now with that info and the fact that X4, X5 and X6 at U2 are having problems (X7 isn't connected), do you see anything that's common to them based on the function table in Marks picture?

    To answer your question Quench, it would be the C line is stuck low.

    Maybe that was a test for Bob? LOL Sorry if it was...

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #106 4 years ago

    Here's the map for U3. Since the center tap of all the pots are connected to seven different pins on U3 and the fact the the other switches (using the same pins) are working - we can assume U3 is OK. Right?

    I sort of understand what's going on with U2 but what I don't understand is what's driving "Enable - C - B - A"? Pins 6 - 9 - 10 - 11. Looks like 9 - 10 - 11 are controlled from U1 (pins 5 - 4 - 3). If pin 9 is held low then the problem could be U1 pin 5?

    I can see me using my logic probe in the near future. The problem is powering up that board with all the guts all over the bench.

    One last question - if the Enable pin is pin 6 and the schematic shows pin 6 going to ground - how could pin 6 ever go high? Wouldn't that be a short?

    You guys are amazing - teaching an old dog new tricks.

    Thanks

    Bob

    front U3 (resized).jpgfront U3 (resized).jpg
    #107 4 years ago

    Sense I'm going to be pulling out my logic probe soon, I have a couple of questions. When do you use CMOS and TTL? I know they're for different chips but the chips don't say they are CMOS or TTL. Is there an easy way to determine which setting I should be using?

    The other question I always have is where to connect the red clip? When the probe shows HI does that indicate it's higher than where the red clip is connected. If I connect to 5 volts and the probe says HI - does that mean it's above 5 V? And LO means less than 5 V?

    Thanks

    Bob

    #108 4 years ago

    One last question tonight - what are these - circled in red. They look like piano keys.

    I haven't checked the board - it's after 3 AM and the shop is closed for the night.

    I'm thinking some kind of test points.

    Thanks

    Bob

    IMG_3959b (resized).jpgIMG_3959b (resized).jpg
    #109 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    The only pattern I see is U2 P4 , P5 and P6 are connected to the non-working pots and not connected to any switches.

    Do you remember if any of those push button switches on the pots still worked? because they have U2 X5 connected to them.
    Actually they are not pots (potentiometers) at all. You'll notice you can freewheel them 360 degrees so they're not variable resistors with a start and end position. Those things are what's called "incremental encoders". Put simply, their pins digitally indicate which direction you're turning the rotary control.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Here's the map for U3. Since the center tap of all the pots are connected to seven different pins on U3 and the fact the the other switches (using the same pins) are working - we can assume U3 is OK. Right?

    In that case, U3 is probably ok.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    I sort of understand what's going on with U2 but what I don't understand is what's driving "Enable - C - B - A"? Pins 6 - 9 - 10 - 11. Looks like 9 - 10 - 11 are controlled from U1 (pins 5 - 4 - 3).

    Correct, U1 controls both U2 and U3. Your next mission is to download the datasheet for U1 "74HC393" and see what it does

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Looks like 9 - 10 - 11 are controlled from U1 (pins 5 - 4 - 3). If pin 9 is held low then the problem could be U1 pin 5?

    Pin 9 being held low could be U1 pin 5, BUT U1 pin 5 also goes to U1 pin 13 which then controls U3. Since we presume U3 is working ok, the problem might potentially be the input pin 9 of U2.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    One last question - if the Enable pin is pin 6 and the schematic shows pin 6 going to ground - how could pin 6 ever go high?

    In this circuit, pin 6 of U2 and U3 never go high. The circuit is designed so those two chips are always enabled by tying their active low "enable" pins to ground.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    The other question I always have is where to connect the red clip? When the probe shows HI does that indicate it's higher than where the red clip is connected. If I connect to 5 volts and the probe says HI - does that mean it's above 5 V? And LO means less than 5 V?

    Nope, the terms LO and HI refer to logic levels. The red clip is just the logic probes power lead so connect it to the power rail of the logic circuit.
    Have a read of the below link which explains logic levels (OFF or ON, 0 or 1, Low or High) and how voltages levels translate to logic levels for TTL and CMOS devices. Because logic levels are a little different between TTL vs CMOS chips in the middle voltage range, this is the reason for the switch on the logic probe so it can better determine what's "LO" or "HI" (low or high).

    https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/logic-levels/all

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Sense I'm going to be pulling out my logic probe soon, I have a couple of questions. When do you use CMOS and TTL? I know they're for different chips but the chips don't say they are CMOS or TTL.

    In the old days it was easy. Logic chips with part number starting with "74" (74 series) were TTL chips. Logic chips starting the "40" or "45" (4000 or 4500 series) were CMOS chips.
    The funny thing is the part number for the U2 chip is a 74HC4051. This part number is an amalgamation of both 74 and 4000 series chips. The function of this part was originally sold as a "4051" back in the day.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_7400-series_integrated_circuits
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_4000-series_integrated_circuits

    #110 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    One last question tonight - what are these - circled in red. They look like piano keys.
    I haven't checked the board - it's after 3 AM and the shop is closed for the night.
    I'm thinking some kind of test points.
    Thanks
    Bob[quoted image]

    That trace appears to be ground. Its likely for a RF connection to a shield or cover. EMI or similar type of connection. Look at where that board goes and check for fingestock, conductive foam, etc. Either it lowers an emission or grounds a RF hot spot on the board.

    #111 4 years ago

    Sorry for the information overload..

    Looking at the front panel schematic basically indicates the oscilloscope panel switches and incremental encoders are all hooked up to U2 and U3 in a switch matrix scenario. I'm not sure how familiar you are with the switch matrix on the early Bally/Stern games?

    U3 sends the "Strobe" signals to the panel switches, U2 receives the state of the switches being strobed. The difference between the switch matrix on this panel and the switch matrix in those early pinballs is the oscilloscope panel reports one switch at a time (serial data) meanwhile the pinballs report 8 switches at a time (parallel data).
    Besides power to U1, U2 and U3, only 3 other signals are used to interface all those switches/encoders to the main processor board in the oscilloscope.
    The three signals are:
    FPCLR to pin 2 and 12 of U1 which indicates to start reading from the beginning of the switch matrix.
    FPCLK to pin 1 of U1 which moves to the next switch/encoder to read.
    FPMUX from pin 3 of U2 goes back to the processor board with the state of the panel switch/encoder just read.

    #112 4 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Do you remember if any of those push button switches on the pots still worked?

    I'm not absolutely sure but I don't think they were working. I seldom use them anyway. And if I can't change the settings, hitting the buttons don't center the settings anyway.

    Quoted from Quench:

    Actually they are not pots (potentiometers) at all.

    I realized that back in post 90 but I have a hard time remembering which is encoder and decoder so I just call them pots and chips. So, there's no resistance value in there at all - It just tracks if it's going up or down. That's neat.

    Quoted from Quench:

    BUT U1 pin 5 also goes to U1 pin 13 which then controls U3.

    I discovered that late last night. It looks like U1 and U3 might be OK. More and more U2 is looking suspect.

    I know just enough about logic probes (and oscilloscopes) to be dangerous. Need more training. I haven't seen that Sparkfun tutorial but I have read several of their articles.

    I may be in trouble with the red logic probe clip. I don't see anywhere on this board to attach it to get power. I was hoping those piano keys were test points (so I could get power) but it looks like Mark is right. They are all ground. I guess they are some kind of shied but they don't touch anything. No pads. The board is attached to the front cover and held off the back plate by a quarter inch or so. The LCD screen is held between the front cover and rubber pads.

    I'm thinking about using the scope instead of the logic probe. The scope just needs ground.

    Quench, I'll get back to you later about your last post - I need to read it a few more times.

    Thanks

    Bob

    #113 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    I may be in trouble with the red logic probe clip. I don't see anywhere on this board to attach it to get power.

    I don't think the logic probe will work on 3.3 volt logic circuits anyway. If you have one of the common 610 logic probes, minimum voltage is 4 volts.
    You might need to use your other oscilloscope.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Quench, I'll get back to you later about your last post - I need to read it a few more times.

    See if you analyse pin 3 of U2
    Also pick one of the three rotary encoders and analyse the three pins near each other. Do the outer pins voltages change when you rotate its knob? I suspect you should see activity on the middle pin pulsing low which should be the strobe pin.

    If it comes to attempting repairs, are you in any position to be able to replace U2? before shipping costs, 74HC4051 are less than a dollar.
    Having said that, I think it might be too early to be attempting repairs in terms of replacing parts - what if they ask for the faulty unit back?

    #114 4 years ago

    This is what I’m understanding – CLR is a signal from the motherboard – CLK is like a ratchet (next , next , next). U1 is like a traffic cop – he’s directing where to send the signal and where to receive the signal. He sends the signal out to U3 who send it to the proper switch (according to the directions from U1). The signal is read at U2 (again according to the directions from U1). Then the signal is send back to the motherboard. Once the signal is received the motherboard tells CLK to go to the next.

    This is the logic probe I have:

    https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electronics-LP-560-Logic-Probe/dp/B000Z9HAP4/ref=asc_df_B000Z9HAP4/

    It says voltage range 4 to 18 volts. I don’t think it will work on 3.3 V either.

    Once I get the board back in and connected I’ll check it with the scope. The ribbon cable connecting the board is just long enough to reach. Not much room to spread it out. I’ll have to work in close quarters.

    I have thought about (and worried about) attempting replacing that chip. This will NOT be easy. I have never worked on surface mounted components – let alone a 16 pin IC chip. It’s like jumping into the deep end. Any suggestions, comments, or lessons will be greatly appreciated. From anyone.

    I know the chip is cheap but the shipping cost is outrageous. Anyone have a suggestion on where to buy this chip?

    As far as Amazon and I are concerned we’re even. They never asked for a return. If they ask now I’ll just dump everything into a box and send it back – at their expense. I don’t think they’ll ask.

    Thanks

    Bob

    #115 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    This is what I’m understanding – CLR is a signal from the motherboard – CLK is like a ratchet (next , next , next). U1 is like a traffic cop – he’s directing where to send the signal and where to receive the signal. He sends the signal out to U3 who send it to the proper switch (according to the directions from U1). The signal is read at U2 (again according to the directions from U1). Then the signal is send back to the motherboard. Once the signal is received the motherboard tells CLK to go to the next.

    I'm impressed! that's pretty good.

    I've drawn the switches in the matrix setup below:

    The CLR signal from the mainboard forces the A, B, C signals to U2 and U3 to go low (zero volts) which switches X0 to the X pin on both chips.
    At U3, this causes X0 pin to connect to ground via the "X" pin.
    If the first switch is closed (top left corner), the X0 pin at U2 will be connected to ground so the mainboard will read logic low (zero volts) on the U2 X pin (FPMUX signal). If the switch is open the mainboard will read a logic high (the FPMUX signal has pull-up resistor (10k ohms) to 3.3 volts on the main board).

    The mainboard then activates the CLK signal to switch U2 to the X1 pin (via the A, B, C pins) so it can read the state of the next switch. After a few CLK ratchets when U2 is at X7, the next CLK signal activation rolls U2 back to selecting the X0 pin. At the rollover, U3 then moves to the next pin which is X1.
    So in the matrix, the top left switch is read at the beginning of the process and each CLK then goes down the column. At the end of the whole process which is 63 CLK signals later, the last switch on the bottom right has been read.

    This process probably happens hundreds of times a second. FYI relating this to the Bally/Stern MPU boards they perform this process 120 times per second. Difference is they read eight switches at a time.

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    I have thought about (and worried about) attempting replacing that chip. This will NOT be easy. I have never worked on surface mounted components – let alone a 16 pin IC chip. It’s like jumping into the deep end. Any suggestions, comments, or lessons will be greatly appreciated. From anyone.

    Do you have a soldering hot air gun? You'd be surprised how easy it is.

    Oscilloscope_FrontPanelSwitches.pngOscilloscope_FrontPanelSwitches.png

    #116 4 years ago

    I found I have more room to work if I pull the ribbon cable out to the front and connect the board there.

    I tested U2 - pins 1 - 2 - 3 show activity and the trace on the scope is moving around. Pins 4 - 5 shows a trace on the scope but it don't move like the first 3.

    Photo 1 shows pin 4. Photo 2 is pin 5.

    Bob

    pic_8_1 (resized).jpgpic_8_1 (resized).jpgpic_8_2 (resized).jpgpic_8_2 (resized).jpg
    #117 4 years ago

    I tested the encoder - the voltage seems to change 5.12 to 4.81 when I turn the pot. It's kinda difficult to do when I have to turn the pot, hold the probe and control the scope. I'll try again later - Dinner time.

    Bob

    #118 4 years ago

    Wish you were here.

    #119 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Wish you were here.

    Cue Pink Floyd?

    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Photo 1 shows pin 4.

    U2 pin 4 (X7) isn't connected to anything that I can see on the schematic. So that waveform is probably residue you're seeing coming from the U2 pin 3 "X" pin back from the main board.

    Can you take a snapshot of the CLK signal at U1 pin 1 showing the full cycle of 63 odd ratchet clicks?
    Essentially what you need to do is use the CLK signal as your trigger reference, then with the other oscilloscope channel record the U2 pin 3 (FPMUX) signal.
    At the 5th and 7th CLK ticks, the FPMUX signal will indicate the state of the two "Volts/Div CH2" encoder bits. Rotating this encoder should change the state of those bits during the read switch process.

    However I understand this is going to be difficult to achieve with only 2 hands and limited access..

    #120 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    Wish you were here.

    Even tho Quench has been steering this ship...I feel a little left out here. LOL!

    But you're in good hands...

    #121 4 years ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I feel a little left out.

    Please jump in if you have some extra insight or need to correct me

    #122 4 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Please jump in if you have some extra insight or need to correct me

    Nah, other than my simpleton comments about the 4051 and the EMI shielding, I haven't been following the thread very closely. You're doing a great job!

    #123 4 years ago

    Glad you guys are on line - I just wish you were both here in my shop - I'd learn something.

    Quoted from Quench:

    Can you take a snapshot of the CLK signal at U1 pin 1 showing the full cycle of 63 odd ratchet clicks?

    This scope has run/stop. Would that get me the full cycle?

    I also have save / recall.

    #124 4 years ago

    U1 pin 1

    pic_9_1 (resized).jpgpic_9_1 (resized).jpg
    #125 4 years ago

    What we're looking for is the CLK signal being idle, then it pulses 63 times then goes idle again. That's the full cycle. This is the theory.
    So you may have to adjust the Sec/Div to fit all those CLK pulses in on the screen.

    #126 4 years ago

    Could this be one full cycle? I was expecting 63 cycles.

    #127 4 years ago

    This is U1 p1 - it's saved in scope memory.

    I don't see the pause.

    pic_9_2 (resized).jpgpic_9_2 (resized).jpg
    #128 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    This is U1 p1 - it's saved in scope memory.

    I count 50 CLK ticks. Try taking the recording another few times. If there is no idle, then as soon as it finishes reading the last switch it goes straight back to read the first switch.
    Can the scope go down to 4.00us SEC/Div? That should fit it all in - will be difficult to see the transitions though.

    If there's no idle time then the only way to know when the read process is at the beginning is when the CLR signal pulses high (U1 pin 2).

    #129 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    This is U1 p1 - it's saved in scope memory.
    I don't see the pause.[quoted image]

    Adjust the sweep time longer to catch all 63 cycles. Use the Single Seq button to catch the start of the 63 pulses. It will only trigger once (it won't keep sweeping). Make sure you set the trigger level to catch a real pulse (like you did above - that's probably OK other than you might have the x1 x10 setting wrong).

    Sorry if I missed something, just butting in here for a few while I got a free sec.

    #130 4 years ago

    FYI: The Single Seq button makes the scope only trigger once, it won't keep sweeping. So one it triggers at xx volts, it does a full sweep and stops. And it won't sweep until the input goes above the trigger level. If the time base isn't long enough (i.e to catch all 63 cycles), then you won't be able to count the pulses Quench is referring to. If you slow it down, then you should be be able to see all the pulses.

    Make sense?

    #131 4 years ago

    Thanks Mark, I actually don't have a digital scope so that info helps. I presume Bob will be able to zoom in time wise on the recording?

    #132 4 years ago

    I thought when I save it to scope memory I could recall it and change the settings. For some reason it won't do that.

    U1 P1 at 400 us:

    pic_9_3 (resized).jpgpic_9_3 (resized).jpg
    #133 4 years ago

    Mark you're right - scope setting was on 10X - probe was 1X.

    #134 4 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    ...I presume Bob will be able to zoom in time wise on the recording?

    I have the same Hantek DSO5072P Bob has. I wasn't worried about Bob zooming in - thought that might muddy the waters. But yes, he could do that.

    #135 4 years ago

    I thought single seq. would catch all pulses but it didn't - I'll try again.

    #136 4 years ago

    BTW, change the time base to 4.0us, not 400us.

    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I have the same Hantek DSO5072P Bob has. I wasn't worried about Bob zooming in - thought that might muddy the waters. But yes, he could do that.

    At 4.0us Sec/Div, how many "screen fulls" of data could it record?

    #137 4 years ago

    when I hit save/recall it says Ref - Setup - CSV . what should I be using. I thought Ref.

    #138 4 years ago

    Bob, try hitting the F7 button. I think that allows opening up a window to zoom in. i.e. does a longer sweep and you can still zoom in to examine closely.

    #139 4 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    BTW, change the time base to 4.0us, not 400us.

    At 4.0us Sec/Div, how many "screen fulls" of data could it record?

    Not sure how much memory it has.

    #140 4 years ago

    When I recall (see post 127) I can change the horz and vert settings but it don't change the graph on the screen.

    #141 4 years ago

    When I hit F7 it does allow me to change the window but when I hit F7 I loose the graph.

    #142 4 years ago

    U1 P1 single seq.

    pic_9_4 (resized).jpgpic_9_4 (resized).jpgpic_9_5 (resized).jpgpic_9_5 (resized).jpg
    #143 4 years ago

    Bob,

    F7 is hiding here:

    You can see the wider sweep up top, but still zoom in below via the red brackets.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #144 4 years ago

    I think this is it

    pic_9_6 (resized).jpgpic_9_6 (resized).jpg
    #145 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    I think this is it

    Is the recording long enough to determine how many CLK ticks are occurring before it goes idle again?

    #146 4 years ago
    Quoted from oldschoolbob:

    I think this is it[quoted image]

    Looks like you are getting there. Now increase the sweep time to catch the number of pulses you are interested in.

    Is the scope probe ground connected? You have some noise on that trace.

    #147 4 years ago

    Looking at your screen Bob, the complete cycle (on-off-on) is about 1.6uS. x64 = 102.4uS Set you scope to around that for a full sweep and you should see all the pulses Quench is talking about.

    #148 4 years ago

    I count 3 pulses down - 24 up

    pic_9_7 (resized).jpgpic_9_7 (resized).jpg
    #149 4 years ago

    ground is probably not the best but there isn't much to connect to.

    IMG_3995 (resized).JPGIMG_3995 (resized).JPGIMG_3987 (resized).JPGIMG_3987 (resized).JPG
    #150 4 years ago

    Set the sweep time longer to see more pulses if you are trying to count 63 pulses.

    There are 252 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.

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