(Topic ID: 269611)

Moving a Flash Gordon pin table

By Beef1975

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 19 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Hayfarmer
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#1 3 years ago

Hello all.
I have become the proud owner of a Bally Flash Gordon machine. Once C19 lockdown is over, I need to move it 200 miles to my home.

May is ask those with experience what the 'dos' and 'don'ts' are in moving machines of this type?

Kind regards

#2 3 years ago

That's a great question and I'm sure it's been written about before on these old bally's without hinges. I prefer to undo the headbolts. Lay the head on the machine and wrap it together with plastic stretch wrap. Otherwise you need to remove all of the connectors to completely remove the head. Then remove the rear legs and put it on its butt and remove the front legs.

Of course remove the ball.

#3 3 years ago

As mentioned remove the pinball. I've snapped a drop target and chipped a plastic on 2 games due to the metal projectile...

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from EddiePi:

That's a great question and I'm sure it's been written about before on these old bally's without hinges.

Flash Gordon has hinges.

1) Bring a piece of foam or cardboard to put between the head and rails to keep from banging up either.

2) Remove the backglass, open lightpanel and remove the hold down bolts. Check the ground strap in the middle if it is long enough to get flexed with head down, unscrew if not.

3) Place head in lowered position. Strap if possible.

I prefer to remove the backglass during transport.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from EddiePi:

That's a great question and I'm sure it's been written about before on these old bally's without hinges. I prefer to undo the headbolts. Lay the head on the machine and wrap it together with plastic stretch wrap. Otherwise you need to remove all of the connectors to completely remove the head. Then remove the rear legs and put it on its butt and remove the front legs.
Of course remove the ball.

Remove the balls from the game. Flash Gordon’s head is hinged so just remove the hold down bolts and fold it down. Lay down some cardboard or a moving blanket first and run a strap around the game to secure it. Then you can remove the back legs, stand it upright on the back and remove the front legs then its good to transport. I pull backglasses and move them separate, but that is up to you.

#6 3 years ago

Wow! Some superb advice there. Thank you all for the quick responses.
I'll take a selection of sockets/spanners, some padded blankets....and some WD-40.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Beef1975:

Wow! Some superb advice there. Thank you all for the quick responses.
I'll take a selection of sockets/spanners, some padded blankets....and some WD-40.

9/16, 5/8 and 11/16 will usually cover it and one of those 6 way screwdrivers. I toss an adjustable wrench in the back too as a backup in case something really odd crops up. Consider also bringing a screw to lock the light board latch to keep it from vibrating open while in transport, its what all the pin companies did back in the day. There should be a screw hole above or through the latch to keep it in the locked position.

#8 3 years ago

Ahhh... thanks for the clarification on the hinges guys. The last one I moved was a Mata Hari which does not have any. Good improvement over those 3 years between machines. On those without hinges, do you all remove connectors and remove or lay them down as I mentioned ?

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from EddiePi:

Ahhh... thanks for the clarification on the hinges guys. The last one I moved was a Mata Hari which does not have any. Good improvement over those 3 years between machines.

Have to be careful though about the hinges, they are actually slip hinges with an open pin so that if you desired you can lower the head and slip it off by pushing to one side. Hence my comment about strapping to be safe so that doesn't happen with all the wiring still connected!

I'm in the process of restoring my Flash Gordon now, you can just see the two hinge plates in the picture attached.

8064491da90829973ec122306af3944f1d93d5b9 (resized).jpg8064491da90829973ec122306af3944f1d93d5b9 (resized).jpg
#10 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

9/16, 5/8 and 11/16 will usually cover it and one of those 6 way screwdrivers. I toss an adjustable wrench in the back too as a backup in case something really odd crops up. Consider also bringing a screw to lock the light board latch to keep it from vibrating open while in transport, its what all the pin companies did back in the day. There should be a screw hole above or through the latch to keep it in the locked position.

Is the lightboard in the head? And from what you say, it is hinged/opens?

#11 3 years ago

Why WD-40?

I feel like its a fairly safe blanket statement to say, "Friends don't let friends use WD-40 on a pin, anywhere for any reason."

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Why WD-40?
I feel like its a fairly safe blanket statement to say, "Friends don't let friends use WD-40 on a pin, anywhere for any reason."

I expect to find the odd rusted bolt on the legs, I suppose. But I happy to keep the WD-40 in the tool shed if that's the advice.

#13 3 years ago

For a short move, why not leave head up? Iv e always taken off or hinged down but wondered what does it really matter? Any thoughts?

#14 3 years ago

Just had a future spa delivered here, backbox was wrapped to cabinet. Backglass was hanging on by only the top, amazed it didnt break. I prefer to carry glass standing, not flat, so why not ship upright?

#15 3 years ago

Probably more stress on the head moving it than one would think. old wood, old glue.

#16 3 years ago

Just personal preference for me, but I always take the head off. Makes moving the individual pieces easier; just my preference. The connectors aren't bad to disconnect and reconnect after you've done it a hundred times

Make sure you have "Standard" measure sockets, not "Metric" since you're in the UK.

No WD-40 near a pinball machine. I've never once found a situation where WD-40 makes things better. It just doesn't.

Have fun! Good luck! If things don't work when you bring it home and set it back up, re-seat the connectors. Usually one or two have loosened up during the trip.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Beef1975:

Is the lightboard in the head? And from what you say, it is hinged/opens?

Yes, it holds the score displays and back box lighting.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

For a short move, why not leave head up? Iv e always taken off or hinged down but wondered what does it really matter? Any thoughts?

Safer to fold it if possible. I have done trips with the head up but it can be asking for trouble.

#19 3 years ago

What can happen? I always do break down, but wonder why

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