Hi all, I just bought my first pinball machine (a Bally World Cup Soccer), which was working fine when I picked it up, but after a 3 hour drive, seems to have some issues (damn!).

I plugged it in and turned it on, only to hear a pop, and no response from the machine. Lifting up the playfield I checked the fuse in the power supply (8A), and that had blown.

One thing I noticed was there were a couple of cut wires around the power supply (white and black) the white one was end down on the metal power supply, wondering if this shorted on the supply causing the blown fuse? (these have been taped up now, but may have been to do with a conversion from 110 to 240V?).

Using a 5A fuse in the power supply (all I had around), I powered it back up and there were a few more popping noises that concerned me, so I promptly turned it back off. Checking the power supply fuse again, it hadn't blown, so not sure where to go from here.

This is my first machine, so maybe some of the noises are normal, but I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for things I should check before I re power it back up so I don't fry any boards etc? (or myself!)

Thanks for the responses guys, I'll head off and get a few of all the necessary fuses!

Here's a couple of photos of the cut wires, after tracing it around I've discovered they run from the power supply (they were cut out of those 2 clear joiners) over to the front left corner of the cabinet. They are thicker wires than many of the others, and are run in clear plastic tubing you can see in the second photo.

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Oh, forgot to mention, the cut wires are the ones with the red tape on them in the first picture.

Thanks Mark, the pops were definitely electric (sort of a squeek at power up and then some pops), I assume some of these noises were from the speakers and the machine generally energizing? Didn't seem like solenoids firing, and wasn't constant.

How long would it normally take from switching on a WPC machine until something shows on the dmd?

Will do! I should have a chance to go through the above tests tomorrow night

Ok, been through all the fuses, nothing else blown, only one fuse (F902) was incorrect (5A instead of 3A) and that was replaced.

Looking at the power supply fuse again, it was only 32V rated instead of 250V, so that's now been replaced with a 5A SB fuse as per manual for foreign game (Australia here).

Just working through the connectors now, I have discovered some crappy fixes on J120 where the wires have been re-soldered directly to the pins. Also half of J121 is missing

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Ok, fired it up, and 100% working!

Well, not 100%, a few lesser issues that I'll need to look at:
- Boot report mentioned "Check Switch F6"
- I ran through the lamps and there's a few blown

Other than that, got through a few games ok

Looks like I'm going to have to hunt around to see how the GI is working with this hack. J121 is meant to have a lot more connections than it does, and J120 is meant to have a lot less...

The key things I did was replace the blown power supply fuse and reseat all connecters, that was pretty much it!

Thanks for helping a newbie through the process guys

From a bit of research, seems the F6 switch issue might be a simple fix of cleaning the opto on the flipper button.

As a follow up to this a week on, the machine has been starting up ok around half the time, but on some occasions it is tripping the 10 amp circuit breaker on the power board I have it plugged into (similar to this one: http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_hpm-electresafe-power-centre-10-amp_38877.aspx?filter=categoryname--Power+Centres). It normally starts up ok on the second attempt (obviously resetting the circuit breaker).

It seems as though this happens more after a cold start, and after a bit of research I'm thinking it might be the thermistor in the power supply? The 5A slow blow fuse I replaced in the power supply isn't blowing at all, so that might also explain why the 8A fast blow fuse blew previously...

Thanks toasterdog, repinning J120/J121 is pretty high on my priority list now

Finally got around to popping open the metal power box on my WCS today to see what may be up with the circuit breaker tripping (it has been tripping a lot less recently since I added a 15m extension cord to it).

I had done some research, and this article seemed to suggest that there may be something wrong with the thermistor causing a current surge on power on.

http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_sys11_house_fuse_trips.html

Opening the box I discovered there was no thermistor at all, so that would explain it! It looks like I should install one inline with that black cable coming out of the fuse holder at the bottom of the photo? (that leads to the switch).

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Added in a thermistor and so far 2 clean boot ups!

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