To test power switch, UNPLUG game, put meter on continuity test, leads on each tab of switch, turn switch on and off. If it works, you'll get beep when switch is on.

That EMI thing can go bad too and fail OPEN.

I would recommend you do not do continuity tests with the game plugged in. There will be 120VAC on the switch terminals and possibly other places. You could check AC voltages, if you know what you are doing. If you touch the wrong wires, you could damage the game or yourself.

Jumper wire across the terminals, but put the jumper on with the game UNPLUGGED. After the jumper is in place, I would use a switched power tap with a built-in circuit breaker to apply power to the game. I don't like getting shocked.

Yes. They can fail OPEN. It can be bypassed with jumper wires, but make sure you jumper the right wires and don't short neutral to hot. Again, jumper with game UNPLUGGED. If you are unsure how to do it safely, then do more research before attempting.

Asked and answered. Everything you need to do is in the thread already. If you don't understand, its time to call a professional.

This. If you are already getting 120VAC at the board, then you don't need to bypass anything. If you don't understand, the only thing I can recommend is that you call someone that works on pinball machines before you damage the game or hurt yourself.

I think you should get help. Get a friend to come over that knows about AC, electronics, and taking basic readings SAFELY. You are lucky nothing bad has happened yet.

Sorry if I sounded like a jerk. The questions made me worry that you weren't aware of the danger poking around with live 120VAC.

If you can make or get some jumper wires, you can bypass the EMI filter -- some people remove them altogether and connect the wires. Just jump hot to hot (usually black wires), neutral to neutral (usually white wires), ground to ground (usually green wires). IDK if your wire colors are the same. I didn't see a picture of your EMI filter.

If that resolves the issue, then remove the jumpers and either replace the EMI or bypass more permanent with connectors or wire nuts.

jumpers (resized).png

Yeah that's different than I imagined. I think to bypass it you would jump the black wire to the blue wire directly under it, the other black wire to the brown wire directly under it, and the green wire to the green wire on the grounding strap.

Like this...

jump (resized).png

Not to be too overprotective here, but if you try this, make sure your jumpers don't touch or short to any metal on that EMI box...

If that thing is wired wrong, then you should probably not try bypassing until you get better guidance.

If it is like most of the used games I bought, the ground plug was cut off and the plug could go in the wall either way.

Reminds me of a Spot a Card game my dad had in his basement years ago. There was no polarized plug on the game, but the metal on the game must have been tied to the neutral. So you had a 50/50 chance. If you plugged it in wrong, you would get a nice strong shock on your feet through the concrete floor. It really added some ZAZZ to the game.

The first picture shows an aftermarket CPU from barakandl -- a pinside member. Maybe he has some troubleshooting steps for locked LED on his board.

This is for the Bally OEM board, but maybe something here would give you some things to check:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Bally_.2F_Stern_MPU_Board_LED_Never_Lights_or_is_Locked_On