Quoted from Quench:

Your game couldn't have worked with the way the J2 connector at the rectifier board is wired.
The yellow wire (AC line power) at pin 4 should be at pin 6.

Quoted from KenH:

To test power switch, UNPLUG game, put meter on continuity test, leads on each tab of switch, turn switch on and off. If it works, you'll get beep when switch is on.
That EMI thing can go bad too and fail OPEN.

Quoted from KenH:

I would recommend you do not do continuity tests with the game plugged in. There will be 120VAC on the switch terminals and possibly other places. You could check AC voltages, if you know what you are doing. If you touch the wrong wires, you could damage the game or yourself.

Jumper wire across the terminals, but put the jumper on with the game UNPLUGGED. After the jumper is in place, I would use a switched power tap with a built-in circuit breaker to apply power to the game. I don't like getting shocked.

Yes. They can fail OPEN. It can be bypassed with jumper wires, but make sure you jumper the right wires and don't short neutral to hot. Again, jumper with game UNPLUGGED. If you are unsure how to do it safely, then do more research before attempting.

Quoted from KenH:

Asked and answered. Everything you need to do is in the thread already. If you don't understand, its time to call a professional.

This. If you are already getting 120VAC at the board, then you don't need to bypass anything. If you don't understand, the only thing I can recommend is that you call someone that works on pinball machines before you damage the game or hurt yourself.

Quoted from PinRetail:

While I agree that working around 120V CAN KILL YOU...
And the contacts being exposed on that switch make me break out in a cold sweat...
It's not impossible for a home user to find, and fix problems with their pinballs.
The basic "I don't have power" troubleshooting proceeds step by step.
Do I have power at the wall outlet?
Does the plug that plugs into the wall look good or does it look as though it might need some attention?
Does the wire into the pinball look good, or does it need to be replaced?
Power goes into the pinball through the back of the machine, is the wire frayed right there, or does it look good?
On the inside of your coin door to the left is a service outlet. With the pinball plugged into the wall, do I have power to the service outlet?
If you do, use your meter leads. Leave one probe in one side of the service outlet, and put the other on one of the switch contacts one by one, that are exposed in your picture. BE CAREFUL. If you don't get 120V, put the probe that is in the service outlet in the other slot of the service outlet. Now touch your probe to the switch contacts one by one.
If you start reading 120V to one side, or both sides, of the switch with one probe lead in one side of the service outlet, you can now activate the switch. With the switch in one position both sides of the switch should read 120V.
(When the other probe is in the service outlet).
With the switch in the other position, one terminal of the switch shouldn't have voltage on it. You have just tested your power switch for your pinball.
Now, unplug from the wall, and use some electrical tape to completely cover those exposed terminals to your power switch... seriously, that's a killer!
Plug your machine back in, your power switch should be in the 'on' position (if we were measuring voltage, we'd find it on both switch terminals).
Go to the backbox, and find pins 6&7 on J2. Be careful. Put one probe lead on pin 6, the other on pin 7. With power to the machine and the switch on, you should have 120V reading on your meter.
This is the set of steps to find out if your pinball has 120V power.

Quoted from KenH:

Sorry if I sounded like a jerk. The questions made me worry that you weren't aware of the danger poking around with live 120VAC.
If you can make or get some jumper wires, you can bypass the EMI filter -- some people remove them altogether and connect the wires. Just jump hot to hot (usually black wires), neutral to neutral (usually white wires), ground to ground (usually green wires). IDK if your wire colors are the same. I didn't see a picture of your EMI filter.
If that resolves the issue, then remove the jumpers and either replace the EMI or bypass more permanent with connectors or wire nuts.[quoted image]

Quoted from KenH:

If that thing is wired wrong, then you should probably not try bypassing until you get better guidance.
If it is like most of the used games I bought, the ground plug was cut off and the plug could go in the wall either way.
Reminds me of a Spot a Card game my dad had in his basement years ago. There was no polarized plug on the game, but the metal on the game must have been tied to the neutral. So you had a 50/50 chance. If you plugged it in wrong, you would get a nice strong shock on your feet through the concrete floor. It really added some ZAZZ to the game.