The lane change switches are usually secondary switches on the cabinet by the flipper buttons. They could be out of adjustment, dirty or otherwise broken. Since both are out it is probably more likely that there is a broken wire at the switches or elsewhere. Go into switch test as the manual instructs, check your lock switches in that column as well. In fact, you should run both the levels and edge tests to check for all proper switch reporting. Page 1-39 in the manual.

The 4n25 optocoupler on the interconnect board may be bad.

Shot in the dark, but it's a somewhat common failure and replacing it usually fixes things.

Hi,

You can download a manual from ipdb here :

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1635

On Mousin' Around, the lane change isn't controlled by a separate switch any more (earlier System 11 machines either had extra switches stacked inside the cabinet as wayout440 says, or stacked on the flipper mechanisms). On your machine as johnwartjr says the lane change is handled via a couple of optocouplers on the interconnect board.

In the backbox of your machine, there is the big main MPU board. The long narrow board underneath that is the interconnect board. I'd be surprised of both optocouplers have gone bad (although it's certainly possible). I'd suggest reseating (remove and push back on again) all the connectors on the interconnect board and see if that wakes your lane change back up again.

In the manual it'll walk you through switch testing and so on...

I'm rethinking my statement after looking at the schematic, the 4n25 at U2 does the left lane change, and the 4n25 at U3 does the right lane change. Not thinking it's very likely that they both failed.

Look closely at the interconnect board. Are any of the connectors unplugged or burnt? J8? J10? J5?

Snux is right, I was thinking it was like Atlantis with separate switches.

Although U2 and U3 could fail independently, U2 and U3 do get a common emitter signal through interconnect board J1-11 switch column (green/gry) wire. A lack of this signal, broken trace or wire could cause both to fail. So there's a couple of things to look at there.

I would look at J1-11 at this point as way out is suggesting - it's be highly unlikely that U2 and U3 would fail simultaneously. It is almost certainly something they have in common.

i've seen them both dead a number of times so it's not that improbable (on both system 11 games and on the driver board on early WPC games). Likely they both didn't fail at the same time, but I am assuming this is a relatively new to you game.

You've got me thankful I didn't chase after that mouse.

Yessuh. I've restored some old Ballys with corrosion sucessfully. I try to avoid System 11s witch corrosion damage though. You have one good thing going for sure - you've got a good positive attitude about it. Good luck!

And a GREAT system 11 game that is well worth overcoming those issues.

The problem might be, that your scores arn't good enough to put your name in

yes you should, but keep in mind the lanes at the top only move right, regardless on what flipper button you use to move the lane. Not sure if the lanes are moved off the EOS switch or double cabinet button switches. Never really looked as mine always worked.

so back to what was first suggested. Replace the two 4N25 optoisolators at U2 and U3.

Looks like there are quite a few connections to/from the optocouplers that need to be looked at further for corrosion.interconnect board.gif

Yes, the 2 problems definitely sound related.

If you don't have a U2 and U3 for the interconnect board and do not find any other corrosion on connectors/wiring, then you can swap your BK2K or Whirlwind MPU board into the game to see if that fixes the issue.

I've always got time to look at boards for you, and I could even test these once repaired

But I think you're moving in the right direction, so maybe you'll luck out and get it yourself.

Just LMK if you need help. I'd try the interconnect board swap next. I will tell you... I've chased corrosion like you mention before, and it will travel across wires, so take a good look at all the related connectors and header pins so you don't spend a bunch of time chasing your tail on something obvious!

Alkaline is a weird thing.. I've seen boards where it never touched the board immediately surrounding the battery holder, and then there's a nickel sized spot of damage 6 inches away on a board.

I think the alkaline somehow can 'float' across the air, and land somewhere else.

I have found memories of Mousin Around. There used to be one in a tavern in Seymour, IN next to a Medieval Madness. I'd go in, play the Mousin and not the Medieval - now the pins are completely gone in the tavern. Treasurecove cleaned out most of the ops in this area. I only got 1 or 2

i took the mylar off and restored/clearcoated the playfield on the one I have here, came off with no problems. No art lifting, no air bubbles in the insert lacquer.

Precisely why I was after it. Glad you got it going.

I bought 4 pins from a seller in Southern Indiana years ago. The instructions to his house included 'turn off the paved road'. I had no cell signal in his neck of the woods, was taking cash, and had to make *2* trips, because I didn't have enough truck to take 4 pins in 1 trip.

He said the pins were in his 'shed', in actuality, it was a condemned house on his property. Said he was getting ready to throw them in a sinkhole on the back of his property!

2k for a TAF, Funhouse, DE Simpsons and Teed Off - all of which had various varmints living in them at one time or another!

A junkyard... well, I'd be looking for Volvo parts after loading the pin

I'd have my eyes peeled for nice classic SAAB 900s on the lot.

I had a feeling. They were odd via text. I had been pursuing the MA in Bay City, MI before seeing that posting. I was like, "What? Two Mousins in a matter of days of me buying a Diamond Jack up in Green Bay?!". That's when I started chasing it to have on route. I figured if I couldn't have it, I'd at least have it around me.

That is great news that it is working.

Far as some of the wires that you had trimmed and repinned, when you stripped the wire back, did any of the wire still seemed dull looking?

Oh, the whole length of the wires were replaced. Good.
Then I hope you don't have any more trouble out of it.