(Topic ID: 306475)

Mousin' Around - Display missing 2 rows of segments

By Kevv

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Kevv
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Name of game, manufacturer and year: Mousin' Around, Bally, 1989

Did it ever work in your Possession?: yes

Did You Run the Diagnostics?: yes, no issues come up

Where did the game come from?: a vendor that restores pinball machines

Are any aftermarket boards installed?: no

What was the last service you performed?: replaced the diverter coil

Battery Corrosion: no

LED or Incandescent lighting?: leds on playfield, incandescent flashers and backbox

Blown fuses: no

Smell: nothing weird

Obvious Past Work Performed: none

Do you have a Volt Meter?: yes

Can you solder?: yes

Location: Buggenhout, Belgium

The left display on my Mousin' Around is missing the entire row of the top segments and the top right diagonal segments. I bought the cab about a year ago. Back then only the diagonal segment was missing, now since a month or 2 the top segment also stopped working. Can anyone guide me through repairing this? I'd like to try and fix the display before replacing it entirely with a led display. I have a multimeter and I can solder. Thanks in advance!

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#2 2 years ago

First thing to do is play with the ribbon cable that runs between the CPU board and the display.

Take it off and reseat the connectors a few times.

If you have another similar machine, try another ribbon cable.

I recently bought a Whirlwind - the ribbon cable on the display needs to be on a slight angle to work. Lol! Of course I will repair it properly at some stage.

rd

#3 2 years ago

I have reseated the ribbon cable and switched the connection of the left and right displays, still misses the same rows

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevv:

I have reseated the ribbon cable and switched the connection of the left and right displays, still misses the same rows

If you take those IDC cables and look inside them, you should see metal in each slot. The prongs that the connectors attach to should also be clean/clear. You need to have metal on metal contact for all those segments to light up.

When my segments don't work, it's almost always because one of the wires on the IDC connectors is loose or the metal at the port isn't clean. I'd be willing to bet your problem is somewhere in those two white IDC connectors at the top right.

#5 2 years ago

Reseated the IDC connectors, contacts looked clean. Not sure how I should test for loose wires

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevv:

Reseated the IDC connectors, contacts looked clean. Not sure how I should test for loose wires

Do you have the schematic for the display board? Does it look like any of the resistors are burned up or any cold solder joints?

Would look at the schematic and follow the path for those missing segments. Could also be one of the driver chips. Also look at where the pins attach to the glass and if the affected segments are near the edge. I’ve seen a couple displays that had the strip bead of adhesive actually lift on the edge and pull up a lead or two from the glass. If that is the case I think there is some conductive adhesive you could try to restore the connection on the open pins but at that point your probability going to be looking at swapping the glass from another display.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevv:

Reseated the IDC connectors, contacts looked clean. Not sure how I should test for loose wires

Get a spare wire, put one end of the spare wire on the first prong and the other end inside the backend of the IDC connector where the first prong lines up (touching the wire that's inside the IDC). Make sure you are making good contact with each the prong and the wire in the IDC. If you do that with each prong/wire, in theory, the missing segment should light up. When it does, that's your loose wire and that's what needs to be fixed.

Picture attached with the circled spots for the testing to begin. Move down the line until you find the culprit.

Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG

#8 2 years ago

I'm trying to read the schematics of the left display board from the manual found on ipdb. It's a bit hard to read them, but if I'm correct I can see the following things:

- The segments that are missing are labeled a and k
- "A" goes from J3 through U2C 4049, U8A UDN-7180 (?) and R68 8.2k (?) Ohm into the display
- "K" goes from J3 through U3B 4049, U8C UDN-7180 (?) and R62 8.2k (?) Ohm into the display

I can't really read the chip names, but worst case those seem like the ones to replace if nothing else works.

What I don't understand are the inputs from J1 and J2. Those go into the display on inputs labelled STB (or something) 1 through 16. What purpose do those serve? As that seems to be what ThePinballCo-op suggests testing continuity for.

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#9 2 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Get a spare wire, put one end of the spare wire on the first prong and the other end inside the backend of the IDC connector where the first prong lines up (touching the wire that's inside the IDC). Make sure you are making good contact with each the prong and the wire in the IDC. If you do that with each prong/wire, in theory, the missing segment should light up. When it does, that's your loose wire and that's what needs to be fixed.
Picture attached with the circled spots for the testing to begin. Move down the line until you find the culprit.
[quoted image]

I checked continuity between the back of the connectors and the pins on the board with a voltmeter. They all seem to be connected correctly. However, what you suggested was checking for loose wires, but doesn't this only check for a good connection between the header and connector?

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