(Topic ID: 172554)

Mounting Bank A Ball balls

By pinhead52

5 years ago


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  • 40 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by paintpins
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Ok gang, I need to replace 5-6 balls on a BaB Im restoring... May end up replacing all 15 if the client chooses.

Drill out the rivets, a given but how about the pressed-in post? Is my only option to notch the hole on the new ball arm and slip it in under the post cap?

I just replaced an arm on a Diamond Jack, the pressed-in post was loose so I drilled that out too and replaced it with a long #5 screw and cut down the yellow roller so I could use a nut on the inside and a nut on the outside. (you need to ensure the yellow roller freely rotates for properly contact closure etc) I really needed to tap the armature hole 5-40 thus using only 1 nut on the outside... next time

But its a lot of work to replace the pressed-in post on every armature.

Any suggestions? If I have to replace every ball Im going to destroy a lot.

Anybody got a bunch of spare BaB, FP, KoD or DJ armatures they want to sell?

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#2 5 years ago

Wow. I didn't know that Steve was repro'ing these balls.
http://www.pbresource.com/pfplayf.htm

Great to hear...even though they are a bit pricey.

Are the armature yellow "fingers" loose?
If not, I might leave it, and to replace the ball, drill a hole large enough in the ball arm to accommodate the pressed in "finger".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#3 5 years ago

Most of the yellow fingers/posts are tight (I wish I had a press to tighten up the loose ones). Yea but you'll note in the first pic above the cap on the yellow finger is pretty large. Notch seems best. And those little rivets are a pain, Ive been using #2 nut&bolt in place of the rivets.

Yes imagine replacing qty 15 at $30 each althou Steve will discount slightly.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Ive been using #2 nut&bolt in place of the rivets.

That's a better idea. I have a few I need to replace on my game. I'll use your method.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#5 5 years ago

My Flipper Pool #1 ball was replaced with an orange 5 ball ... so I'm carefully observing this thread for tips . Already paid the 30.60 to PBR so I'm all ears

#6 5 years ago

ok here's a ball I did on my FP with the notch. I only used one bolt/nut, the hole close to the post interferes with the yellow sleeve if used.

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#7 5 years ago

And the the "Hack of the Day" , used a #5 long screw to replace the post, cut down the yellow sleeve to make room for the inner nut. As I mentioned I probably will tap the hole next time and do away with the nut on the inside.

Bryan, if you want to pay round trip postage I'll mount it for you...

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#8 5 years ago

Tight fit!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#9 5 years ago

yea, got to remove that inner nut. I was working on this DJ in my bare feet, missing fish paper on the coin switch lit me up

Want to avoid any extra shorts...

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

yea, got to remove that inner nut. I was working on this DJ in my bare feet, missing fish paper on the coin switch lit me up
Want to avoid any extra shorts...

that's why i stand in a bucket of water when i fix my machines

i replaced a few balls on a BaB not to long ago and used the rivets without any problem
you have to take care, those replacement balls break pretty easy
i did once tap the rivet hole and just screwed the new ball on to the arm no nut. i did use locktite on the screw.

#11 5 years ago

Good info. Ken. and nice work.

Just curious if anyone has asked if Steve Young will mount these for a price. He presses on bullseye targets with rivets for people if they send him the parts.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from hoov:

Good info. Ken. and nice work.
Just curious if anyone has asked if Steve Young will mount these for a price. He presses on bullseye targets with rivets for people if they send him the parts.

He probably would, he did some KoD arms for me but its expensive.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

He probably would, he did some KoD arms for me but its expensive.

Aha.....

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

He probably would, he did some KoD arms for me but its expensive.

Still cheaper than breaking a 40$ piece of flimsy plastic (30+ shipping)

#15 5 years ago

Man...that IS tight!
I believe the notch trick, with maybe a dot of epoxy between, to add extra hold.
Another trick for the roller mount, I have done a similar repair before by puttin a nut on a bolt, and then grinding the nut down to about 1/2 the orig thickness, and remove from bolt. makes a nice thin nut.
works in some applications.
Best of luck with that one!

#16 5 years ago

Looking at those busted plastic drops. Some one could make a thin metal or thin aluminum cover that allows the metal part to attach to the plastic arm, and be bent to attach it to the relay assembly. What would it cost? Possibly less than a new set Bank a Balls? Not sure but it looks it could be done.

#17 5 years ago

you could use

Quoted from Darcy:Looking at those busted plastic drops. Some one could make a thin metal or thin aluminum cover that allows the metal part to attach to the plastic arm, and be bent to attach it to the relay assembly. What would it cost? Possibly less than a new set Bank a Balls? Not sure but it looks it could be done.

You could use metal KoD arms for this if you want to extend the life...

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

Man...that IS tight!
I believe the notch trick, with maybe a dot of epoxy between, to add extra hold.
Another trick for the roller mount, I have done a similar repair before by puttin a nut on a bolt, and then grinding the nut down to about 1/2 the orig thickness, and remove from bolt. makes a nice thin nut.
works in some applications.
Best of luck with that one!

I ordered me a 5-40 tap from home depot last night... will eliminate the nut on the inside.

Boilerman did you use #5 hardware or #6 for your fix? will the sleeve fit over #6?

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I ordered me a 5-40 tap from home depot last night... will eliminate the nut on the inside.
Boilerman did you use #5 hardware or #6 for your fix? will the sleeve fit over #6?

ken i think it was a #5 screw, but can not be sure. i do know the tap was just a tad larger than the rivet hole and cut a nice thread. once i put a little loctite on it i doubt it was not coming off without a screw driver. i made a rivet tool after that so the next set i did was with the rivets. it was a bit tricky buy worked. if i had to do them again i would be tempted to try the tap/screw method first

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

ken i think it was a #5 screw, but can not be sure. i do know the tap was just a tad larger than the rivet hole and cut a nice thread. once i put a little loctite on it i doubt it was not coming off without a screw driver. i made a rivet tool after that so the next set i did was with the rivets. it was a bit tricky buy worked. if i had to do them again i would be tempted to try the tap/screw method first

The #5 screw was for the yellow sleeved roller arm, I assume thats what you are referring to

#21 5 years ago

yes

Quoted from pinhead52:The #5 screw was for the yellow sleeved roller arm, I assume thats what you are referring to

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

My Flipper Pool #1 ball was replaced with an orange 5 ball ... so I'm carefully observing this thread for tips . Already paid the 30.60 to PBR so I'm all ears

Paint it yellow and be done with it. You can easily print out a small #1 with a circle around it and glue it onto the ball. No one will know the difference.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Paint it yellow and be done with it. You can easily print out a small #1 with a circle around it and glue it onto the ball. No one will know the difference.

Paint it and be with it, geez, flame on....

Here's ver 2.0, armature upright arm taped with 5-40, nut only on the outside, yellow sleeve still can spin freely. a little blue lockite, #2 hardware instead of the small rivet for the second hole.

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#24 5 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Paint it yellow and be done with it. You can easily print out a small #1 with a circle around it and glue it onto the ball. No one will know the difference.

No I WILL KNOW the difference ! All the time and lost hair in this repaint I'm all in and cutting corners ain't in the cards JR

#25 5 years ago

I'm the guy who is producing the balls for Steve Young. I can offer some help:

1) If you want to cut a slit in the bottom hole to allow the ball to slip past the switch adjuster I would recommend an exacto 'haxsaw' blade to cut out a slot. Using end nips might stress the part and could chip it

2) Use the rivets that come with ball and crimp the open end of the rivet on the metal side of the mount

3) Though I can't sell the balls directly I can offer up the snap on masks I use to spray the white dot and the stripe (If you want to alter some originals). Also the file image for the numbers.

Mike V.

#26 5 years ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

I'm the guy who is producing the balls for Steve Young. I can offer some help:

2) Use the rivets that come with ball and crimp the open end of the rivet on the metal side of the mount

Mike V.

I havnt found a good punch for that small of rivet, I usually mangle the one Steve sends...

#27 5 years ago

When I had to place a semi-tubular rivet on a new PBR stand-up target, I bought a set of 5 punches from Home Depot for about $8, and used the 3/16" if I remember. On a hard surface, start the crimp with the 3/16" punch and finish flat with a hammer. Not as quality of a job as a press, but who will see?

#28 5 years ago

Ive got a good rivet punch for the targets, its just the little ones for these card/ball arms. #2 hardware works pretty good.

#29 5 years ago

I've never done the little ones on the card/ball arms.......

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

No I WILL KNOW the difference ! All the time and lost hair in this repaint I'm all in and cutting corners ain't in the cards JR

I have a "Bank-A-Ball" which has five handmade balls. If you didn't know that they were homemade repros, you simply wouldn't pick them out. I have a friend with a "Flipper Pool". When he got it, the number one ball was missing. He made one out of a round plastic measuring spoon dipped in yellow "tool dip". You simply can't detect that it's not an original ball when playing the game if you didn't know. You can plunk down $30 for a repro if you want to. That's up to you.

#31 5 years ago

The problem is you have to refurbish or replace them all to make them all to look the same. But then again, 15*30= $450

#32 5 years ago

PBR now selling the armatures, sweet

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#33 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

PBR now selling the armatures, sweet

This is great news!

#34 5 years ago

Good to know.....

#35 5 years ago

OK received some used armatures from PBR and I mounted 1 with the rivets. I had to mount one of the rivets backward, on the plastic side, certainly you need to be careful not to damage the plastic/flatten too much. Punch is too big to get close to the post.

Even with the small head of the rivet it still interferes with the spinning of the yellow plastic sleeve, I need to carve a little plastic off to allow it to spin.

(Also needed to drill the top hole slightly so it fit over the stump of the post)

Still... a workable solution.

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2 weeks later
#36 5 years ago

For Sale

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#37 5 years ago

Ah you killed a BaB...

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

OK received some used armatures from PBR and I mounted 1 with the rivets. I had to mount one of the rivets backward, on the plastic side, certainly you need to be careful not to damage the plastic/flatten too much. Punch is too big to get close to the post.
Even with the small head of the rivet it still interferes with the spinning of the yellow plastic sleeve, I need to carve a little plastic off to allow it to spin.
(Also needed to drill the top hole slightly so it fit over the stump of the post)
Still... a workable solution.

Thanks for the update Ken..........

#39 5 years ago

I'm looking for original red #3 ball in good shape. I have some other originals I can trade. I'll pay domestic shipping for both ways (no out of pocket for you) for a trade. Thanks.

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