I've decided to jump in and retheme my Demolition Man into a Monty Python and the Holy Grail. I thought I'd share my progress here. I've been at it about a month so far.

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PHYSICAL PLANS
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1. The biggest change is probably the car crash lane. I plan to add two controllable drop targets to this lane. I'll be using the drops as locks for MB, similar to TNA. There are already optos there, which will add even more data for the machine to locate balls.

Here are pics of the plan and the drops:

drops.jpg

Controllable drops from pinball life:

pf_coils.jpg

I also plan to turn the rear upkick into a scoop that feeds the primary lower upkick via a new sewer that I'll weld out of metal. I'm also going to add a magnet or up-post to redirect the ball to the pops when needed. This gets rid of the Demo Man reject issue and adds a ball-lock mech.

Here are some pics of the plan:

rear-scoop.jpg

Sewer plans:

sewer.jpg

And lastly, I'm going to do my best to turn the lower upick into a scoop. This one will be tough, but I think it will improve the claustrophobic feel of the center of the PF. If it won't work, I may just leave it as standups. The angle might be weird, but it might work.

Here's a pic of the plan:

scoop.jpg

It may bum some people out, but I'm removing the handles/triggers. I thought of many uses, but after playing the game with normal buttons, I've realized that they actually take away from gameplay. Use of the claw is covered below in rules.

Oh, and I've taken out the metal piece for the eyeball shot. It is now just a standup shot and works great.

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HARDWARE
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I'm using a P-ROC and remaining WPC boards. I'll be retrofitting custom speakers for good stereo sound out of the back box and a really nice sub. I may just go with a good set of stereo computer speakers that come with a good sub.

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SOFTWARE
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I'm coding it with MPF, which has been a blast so far. The framework is amazing and challenging at the same time.

Here are a few DMD pics from attract mode:

grail_dmd_1.gif

grail_dmd_2.gif

A placeholder image from Sir Lancelot mode. The timer for the mode is on the left, player score on right. I also have videos that play for the modes when shots are hit.

grail_lancelot.gif

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RULES
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- The game is presented as you being King Arthur, and you are gathering the Knights of the Round Table and to seek the grail.

- There are 8 modes in the game: Sir Bedevere, Sir Lancelot, Sir Galahad, Sir Robin, tim and the killer rabbit, the black knight, the knights who say ni!, and the black beast.

- The claw will become the hand of God (Deus ex machina). Modes of course have shots, and the claw has paths to almost every area of the playfield. So, the right ramp (God) will allow God to help you. For example, if you are in a mode that requires pops, send it up to god, and he'll automatically drop it into the pops and increase the scoring. Need to shoot the side ramp? God will drop it to the upper flipper to set you up for a big score if you nail it. I have this working well in code, and it is WAY better the controlling the claw.

- One example mode that I'm working on is the black night. For this mode, you must shoot the left ramp, followed by the right ramp (directed by God to your left flipper), followed by right ramp again (directed by God to side flipper), followed by either cave (computer scoop) or side ramp twice. Each shot is a limb hacked off of the black knight. If you finish any of the last two hits after God drops, double points for scoop and triple for side ramp. Regular points if you just shoot either during the mode (without God drop). Hope that makes sense-ish.

- There are 2 main multiballs in the game (and one two-ball in a mode). The drop targets will be the French castle. So in there you will lock balls and get insulted. The MB will involve the drops and trying to defeat the French. The Trojan bunny will be involved as well. The second multiball is Patsy MB and is related to the rear scoop and the pops. Standups will light lock. Two balls locked lights Patsy MB at the rear scoop. MB involves a pop countdown, with the magnet and God delivering shots to the pops. Once the countdown is reached, jackpot is lit at the scoop.

- Other miscellaneous rules: Upper lanes light multiplier Xs in the inlanes. These will be 30 secs-ish pf multipliers. You can light both for up to 3x, and if you're quick enough while it's running, you can light more. The usual max will be 3x though.

- Currently, I have the basic logic for four modes done and most of the fifth. It's pretty scant right now, but it's still pretty fun to play so far.

- The eyeball shot will function as a place for extra ball and potentially add-a-ball during multiballs. I may also move the playfield X shot to the eyeball as it is decently tough. We'll see.

I have all the plans for converting the inserts to function with the game, but I won't bore you with that. I have the translite about half done and a bunch of other art that I'm working on.

I can post a video of some of the gameplay etc. if anyone is interested.

Oh, and I'm likely going to need a second playfield to prep for the final conversion, so if anyone has one that's in good shape, please let me know. I'm also on the lookout for the three python figures (toys) from series one to put in the game.

Cheers,

-Lance

LOL, it's not even close to built yet. Never know, it might suck!

Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

I'll post a video when I get the logic done for the current mode I'm working on. The mode involves launching successive balls while the lower flippers are disabled. the player has a determined number of shots to hit the cave and side ramp with the upper flipper. It will probably be the black beast mode where you shoot the shots to run away. If you are successful, the artist (Terry Gilliam) dies and you get away.

I've finally finished the translite, aside from some colour adjustment. I created a bunch of different ones and found that the simplest of them turned out the best.

Cheers,

Lance

grail_translite (resized).jpg

Took a break from software and ripped apart the playfield to add the new sewer, drill the magnet hole and cut the drop target holes.

I built a prototype for the center scoop, and the angle is too far off. That seems to be the only modification that won't fly.

Translite should be available for pickup in the next few days.

Here's the current pf in prep for drilling. Notice Stallone has been blacked out with electrical tape. Nothing says Monty Python like Sylvester Stallone!

IMG_20201024_224532 (resized).jpg

Here is the pile of junk that used to be my office desk:

IMG_20201025_231734 (resized).jpg

Here is the scoop/sewer and guide rails being cut. I should have these fabricated/welded in the next couple days.

IMG_20201025_174647 (resized).jpg

Software is going really well. I'll do my best to post a video when I get everything back together. I have the logic done for 7/8 modes, so one mode, both multiballs and some other random stuff like multipliers to go. Then it will be a ton of sound and DMD work, but that's the most fun!

Hey guys,

After many, many minor setbacks (fitting devices under the PF is not as easy as it looks!) my physical modifications are now done! I can finally put this thing back together.

What I have completed:

1. Rear scoop is now a sewer to the primary kickout to the right flipper.
2. There is now a magnet in front of the scoop to divert the ball to the pops or hold there for whatever reason.
3. There are metal rails for the car crash lane and two controllable drop targets.
4. Oh, and the translite is done. Looks great!

I'll post pics for the scoop today and put up the ones for the magnet and drops tomorrow or when I can get a chance to go through them.

Here is my prototype for the scoop/sewer:

scoop1 (resized).jpg

Here is some shaping of the corner on the sewer

scoop3 (resized).jpg

Here is the scoop/sewer pieces balanced and held together before welding

scoop4 (resized).jpg

Welding!

scoop5 (resized).jpg

Welding complete. Later on, I did grind the welds down a little, but it's under the PF, so who cares....

scoop6 (resized).jpg

Original sewer with new hole mated to new sewer.

scoop7 (resized).jpg

Notice the slits beside the scoop. I ended up having to cut the scoop off and add metal to create the right angle. Was a pain in the ass!

That's it for now. I'll post those other pics and will get that video I keep promising up when I get the game back together and wired up. I still need to install the up-post in the sewer. I'm going to use the optos from the car crash lane to detect locked balls there as well. I'll probably wait a while for that as I need a break from fabrication.

Okay, had a chance to go through the pics for the magnet. I'll post the drops when I get the chance. The machine is almost completely back together. I just need to wire up the magnet and drops. I'm going to experiment with using flasher voltage to control the release coils on the drops, seeing that they are so small. We'll see what happens.

I had a spare AE-23-800 coil, which I tested on the 50V line as a magnet. It worked very well with a plunger installed. I fluked and had some 1/2" rod in the garage, which fits better than a plunger. So I cut a little extra length so the magnet core can be adjusted in the future if need be. Then I welded a washer on the end to keep it in place when the coil is powered.

Here is the 1/2" rod with washer:

magcore (resized).jpg

For fun: I hit the lights and snapped this after welding:

glow (resized).jpg

I had to pick up a 1/2" drill bit, which was cheap at Princess Auto (Canadian Harbor Freight). Aside from being a little scary in the "can't undo this" way, the drilling of the magnet hole was super easy. The hole is measured for the new pathway to the scoop, not the graphics on the pf.

maghole (resized).jpg

Then I needed a mounting bracket. I did some measuring and made a paper one then cut it out of metal. It's a two part bracket. Notice the slots so that it can be adjusted as needed.

magbracket1 (resized).jpg

Coil with mounting bracket. I added gorilla tape on the inside of the bracket and the back of the magnet core so there is no metal-on metal. I'm unsure if the magnatism crossing over the the bracket will cause any issues. Doubt it as all coils are technically magnets.

coil (resized).jpg

Here is the magnet mounted with the bracket. The mounting screws are not even because (long story short) of a change in plans.

magmounted (resized).jpg

Topside view of the magnet. I'll put some milar around it when I get the chance. Should have done this when I had it apart, but what is pinball without squeezing your hands into tight places while conducting sensitive placement of materials?

Notice that there are glued chips from the playfield next to the scoop. Some asshole cut the PF so that the top layer had an overhang. When I pushed the scoop through, up came the chips. I think they had already been this way because of dirt on the edges. When I pressed them down, they came right off. I glued them down with a c-clamp and cleaned it up with some novus 2 - looks better now than the pic. Luckily, you can't even see this zone when playing. Same with the scoop. I might paint it black, but you can't see it with all the ramps etc. back on. *shrug*

mag1 (resized).jpg

Another view of the magnet on the surface of the pf:

mag2 (resized).jpg

A view of some of the underside mods: The scoop and the magnet.

underPF (resized).jpg

I'm hoping to get things wired up tomorrow. I'm super excited to get the drops, magnet and scoop working. I also bought some more lexan to cover the drops lane as I see the first drop will likely cause some air-balls.

Finally got a chance to go through the drop target pictures.

First, here's a pic of the magnet zone with the rail re-installed and the PF cleaned up with some Novus:

magnetcleanedup (resized).jpg

So, I ran into a pretty big problem with the drops. I wanted to mount them on the left side of the playfield, pretty close to the edge. Thing is, the drops come with the release coil mounted on the left if they are mounted the way I wanted. I didn't notice this!

wpc a14615 (resized).JPG

So this meant that I either gave up my dreams of drop targets or go back into the garage to do some serious modifications on both drops. Well, I had the targets already. My plan was to cut the support for the release coil, place it on the other side and weld it back together.

Here's what I ended up with. Not bad...

dropwelds (resized).jpg

Then I knew the actuator arm was going to mirror opposite to what I needed. *Sigh* I thought I might have to fabricate one myself for each drop, which would ahve been a huge pain. Instead, I bent them to be opposite.

The one on the right is bent. Notice the bend has more degredation in the metal. I've had one of these fail in my STTNG, so I don't know how long these will last. Mind you, STTNG was routed in the 90s, so who knows.

bentactivator (resized).jpg

Here is what the drops look like mounted under the PF with the reversed release coils. Under testing, they work great!

I only had a little trouble with the lower one in the pic on account of the old opto holes. I'll eventually be filling all these holes, so the mounting is temporary.

dropsinstalledlower (resized).jpg

Now for the top of the playfield, the scary jobs!

I marked the drop rectangles and drilled holes inside the perimeter.

dropdrill1 (resized).jpg

Then I used a dremel tool to buzz out a few of the holes until I could get my mini hacksaw blade into the hole.

Bit:

dremel (resized).jpg

Saw:

dropdrill3 (resized).jpg

Hole with the plug out. I then used the same dremel bit to slowly smooth out the edges to the lines. Then I used the saw to square up the corners.

dropdrill4 (resized).jpg

Now I have drops that look pretty good up close and really good from a player's perspective. If I were to do it again, I'd do the back one first! I did the front and it's not as nice as the back. Still turned out great though.

dropsinstalledupper (resized).jpg

Now I had the issue of wiring up the drops. Demo Man has four unused 50v lines, and I need 5 --> 2 per drop and 1 for the magnet. I did some consulting and experimentation and was able to turn one of the 20v flasher lines into a 20v solenoid line that is currently hooked up to one of the release coils. They are so small that the 20v is enough to work, and I have it working well in testing. This means that I do not have to lose my knocker, which would have bummed me out as I want to find a creative way to use it like TAF does. As for the flasher line I used, it is on the backboard and I'm going to splice it in with the flasher next to it so both will flash on command. Barely a difference.

I'm hopeing to get the drops and magnet wired and coded tonight. Doubt I'll get it all done, but they should be at least wired.

Then it's back to coding for a while.

Cheers,

- Lance

Sorry, missed your question. Better late than never!

How involved is the coding? Well, that depends on your experience with programming. I've heard guys say MPF is easy, but I'm finding it enjoyably challenging, and I've done some minor coding in Java, C++ and python. I'd say it took me about 20 hours to become comfortable with the framework (a simplified version of coding, where most of the heavy lifting is done for you), but I'm still learning. These guys have done a HUGE amount of work on MPF. Some of it is still in development. I've added a few things so far, but I plan to spend a few days adding pages and pages of code to help the framework grow and to simplify it for absolute newbs. Programming involves a lot of logic problems, so if you like those, which I do, it's pretty fun, not to mention good exercise for the ol' noggin.

LOL, man I feel like a dork. I didn't even notice when ordering. The weld project was fun anyway, and exchanging from Canada would be a bitch. I probably would have done this anyway. Good to know for ordering replacement actuators when the break!

I just ran the one off the 20v, and it's working fine. If I run into issues, I'll switch it up.

Sooo... drops are working perfectly and are all wired up. The magnet, not so much. Silly me didn't understand that a moving, heavy metal (insert Slayer) ball has quite a bit of momentum, especially with my snappy flipper settings. My little magnet coil can't stop a clean shot. I cranked it up until it became hotter than Hades and blew the fuse, and it still wasn't enough.

I dug around in my junk box and salvaged an old Stern coil. I unwound it quite a bit to give it some more power.

Here is what I call my j-pop testing suite.

Coil, meet pizza box:

pizza1 (resized).jpg

The cardboard, magnet-testing, pinball roll hill!

pizza2 (resized).jpg

The new (old) coil will stop the ball well at pretty high hold power (for this coil, anyway). But it also means that my pulse times need to stay pretty low, like 1-1.5 seconds. Beyond that, it's getting into heat hazard territory. Hopefully I can get the timings down in the code; otherwise, I'll have to either try other coils or build a custom coil or stubbornly settle for an up-post.

I'm probably going to have the center ramp switch trigger it at a lower hold power to stop the ball from trickling into the scoop. I thought this wouldn't happen with the new design, but it seems to happen more.

Small setback... I read on MPF that I should install a diode on the magnet coil to prevent blowing up the board. Well, I thought the cathode side (-) would naturally go to (-) on the coil. Well... as you can likely guess, this is not the case. Guess what a backwards diode does? IT BLOWS UP THE BOARD!

Funny thing is that it was a bad blowup but an easy fix. It didn't blow the fuse or any of the transistors. Instead, it literally blew apart the trace on the board just before the resistor in line with the c36 transistor. Never seen this before. When I flipped the board, I found it had already been hacked before, so I didn't feel so bad doing my first hack. It was easy, ugly and works well I should have taken pics, but I'm new to this pinball blogging thing. I keep forgetting!

Anway, I have some time this weekend to get the code for the drops and magnet runing. I'll do my best to shoot a video on Sunday, even if it's crap. You guys can at least see the thing in action.

Video is up!

Please, no complaints about verticle video. You're only missing out on my messy office, which you've already seen!

Haha, I long for the days of Jimbo and The Cretin!

Do you mean building up the value of the shot with switch hits or something similar?

I'm definitely interested in suggestions for the Black Knight Mode. I'll probably finish it as it is, but there's a good chance I'll replace it with something else. I'll have to see how people like it. I've also considered give a little more time before the mode begins and shooting all five (you get one extra try) in succession. This would speed up the mode. The only issue is how to get rid of the extra balls on the pf.

Seeing that I'm getting closer to getting the bulk of the logic done in coding, I decided to install the sound system so that I can start working seriously on sound. After some research, I chose Logitec Z533 speakers based on quality and size. By measurements, the system would just barely fit without alteration.

z533-speaker-system (resized).png

First thing I needed to do was to get rid of the old speaker, its platform and the glue used to hold the platform.

IMG_20201121_104911 (resized).jpg

IMG_20201121_105400 (resized).jpg

Doh! The lower eject popper mech is about 3/4 cm too long for the sub to fit! SHIT!

IMG_20201121_114016 (resized).jpg

So I made a quick template of the size of the bottom of the bracket. Time to remove some of the sub!

IMG_20201121_110959 (resized).jpg

A few checks and adjustments until the lines match up.

IMG_20201121_114037 (resized).jpg

Then it was time to get the dremel out.

IMG_20201121_125350 (resized).jpg

This 3m respirator/face shield was one of the best investments EVER! If you grind, drill, saw, smash, burn and/or crawl around in attics, get one! No fogging, crazy easy to put on, and great protection!

IMG_20201121_125446_1 (resized).jpg

satellite speakers mounted to the speaker panel. The closest any plugs from the board get is about 1/2 cm. Close, but just enough space.

IMG_20201121_202227 (resized).jpg

Video of speakers and sound. 6 mins.

All good. I've been working on the modes and the drop multiball. If I get done what I hope to tomorrow, I'll try to make a video Sunday.

As a preview:

- I ditched the old Black Knight mode and made it a right ramp, to hand of god, to cave shot mode. Similar to before, but you must shoot for the shots instead of the game just giving them to you.

- I made the Robin mode from the video into the knights of Ni, which is what it should have been in the first place.

- The old Robin mode has been redesigned to be pretty close to STTNG worm hole mode: right orbit to side ramp combo (Picard manoeuvre) to complete. L & R ramps crank up the value. It will be the most difficult mode but the most rewarding if you can crank it up and nail it.

- The logic for the Black Beast mode is finally done. It is a roaming shot mode, which ended up being far more complex than I thought it would be. The good news is that it taught me some pretty powerful parts of MPF.

Cheers,

Lance

Sorry, no video over weekend. I want there to be more to show before I put in the time.

I'm currently working on the million little things I have on my "to do" list.

- Mode scoring - All mode scores will be bonus so that tilting will be costly (my fav. in games). I have to code the scoring as seperate variables and then code to display this during the modes and during bonus. Bonus is done, working on modes.

- DMD breaks - During modes, when you score something or hit something or finish the mode, there will be DMD changes. Just getting the timing down on these is time consuming. This is without any actual DMD graphics, just the logic in the modes.

- Sound - Sounds need to fade in and out and interrupt other sounds. MPF has a powerful sound player, but it takes a lot of time to code individual sounds over music etc.

- Callouts and making sense of the modes to work with what happens in a seriously messed up plot. This part is FUN!

- Once I get a bunch of this done, I'll go back to the hardware side and get the magnet (or up post) done and add the switches for the subway multiball.

I'll get something up this week for sure, but I need to get a lot of these nit-picky things out of the way that don't really add much for your guys to see.

Yes! But nothing too exciting.

Just finished pulling a ton of video assets from the film. Long process as each clip must be edited so that it looks good on a dmd. Editing involves resizing, reframing, brightness, contrast, audio levels etc. Clips are also prone to ugly artifacts.

Tweaking modes and chasing bugs.

Still working on fixing the added magnet and coding drop target functionality. Have a new coil to try. Just need to install.

Things are slower as I don't have as much time these days. I'll try to post a video soonish.

Adobe premiere

Well, life got in the way for quite a while with Covid etc., but I have been chipping away at the game.

Here's what I've been up to:

1. I finished ripping and editing all the video from the film. I have a total of 169 clips edited and tested on the DMD. Let's just say that it was days of work!

2. The magnet didn't work out, so I changed it to an up-post. After playtesting, I've decided to remove that as well. The left loop is the hardest shot in the game, so there is no point in using it to set up the top flipper. Also, the occasional dirty-pool sneak in from the centre ramp will be fine. This was a ton of effort to learn, but I did learn a lot about magnets and design.

3. I thought long and hard about the new sewer switches. I decided to install only an entrance switch opto. This will let me know if the ball is coming in from the rear scoop. This then left me with the issue of the side flipper hole entrance (cave), so I installed a gate and switch for that. Now I'll know if the ball is coming from the Simon hole (claw), the rear scoop or the side shot (cave).

4. The trough for Demo is the same as STTNG. Demo takes 5 balls and STTNG takes 6. I wired up the last opto and made the game 6-ball. This will work well as I have two physical ball locks that hold two balls each and a two-ball mode.

5. I'm currently working on the logic for the new sewer lock and mulitiball. I'll be able to set up staging for the popper at the end of the subway system when balls are locked and shots come in from elsewhere. This will be crazy cool but a challenge to code. MPF handles ball counts kinda funny, at least to me.

PICS:

This is the prototype gate:
20211212_130753 (resized).jpg

Here is the final gate with switch. The gate was made to match the gate of the centre ramp. Notice the metal/gorilla switch mount and ghetto hot-glue switch attachment!
20211212_214241 (resized).jpg

Here is the gate and switch again:
20211215_211021 (resized).jpg

Here are a couple of shots of the opto. My garage is not set up for welding, so I did a temporary mount. If it lasts, I might just leave it.
20211212_214421 (resized).jpg20211212_214538 (resized).jpg

The gorilla tape is to combat noise. The metal is way noisier than I thought it would be. The tape doesn't seem to wear almost at all. We'll see.

That's it for now. I'm going to be working on the code over the next few months to get it to a solid, playable state. Hopefully I'll have most of the code done before June so that I can get at least some of the art done in time for Yegpin in July. I'll post a vid or two before then, but I want to save a lot as a surprise. The videos that I've added in some of the modes are fucking hilarious. Should be a great pin.

That's great idea. I was thinking maybe mylar on the tape, but the poly might be better. I may have a problem with ball height though as there is a rollover switch that sits inside the sewer.

Okay, I have another pretty big update. I was working on code, and after installing that other switch for the main multiball lock, I thought, "it sure would be nice to have something similar for the drops." Then I remembered that I still have the original scoop from the machine. It was just sitting on my desk. Hmmm... So I thought, why not replace the double car crash standup with the scoop?

playfield (resized).jpg

I did a little measuring, and although it would be pretty tight, it looked like it would fit.

The first thing I had to do was to cut off the eject ledge that faced the pops on demo man. It was there to prevent sneak-ins.

Halfway there:
20220107_184607 (resized).jpg

Nice!
20220107_185309 (resized).jpg

I decided to cut the PF from the bottom as I wouldn't have to take apart the upper PF for the zillionth time. Coming from the bottom can chip the top, so I stayed inside the cut zone pretty far.

Angry cutzone!
20220107_183928 (resized).jpg

Take that!
20220107_191705 (resized).jpg

To my horror, it still chipped it pretty badly outside of my cut zone. Lesson learned! The good news is that this will be rediculously easy to fix. I just did a way bigger repair on my DrWho with no issues.
20220107_193937 (resized).jpg

After I cleaned up the hole with the dremel, the scoop fit nicely! Notice my silver and black sharpie touch ups. I'm a fucking pro!
20220108_141652 (resized).jpg

Here's an underside shot of the mech. Look at that tight clearance! I had to take off the rest post to the left to predrill the screw holes. Pretty tight with the insert as well, but it all worked out great!
20220107_233323 (resized).jpg

Here are a couple last shots to give you a better idea of functionality.
20220107_205005 (resized).jpg
20220108_003344 (resized).jpg

So far, the scoop works great. It rarely rejects, but it does occasionally happen when the ball hits the right side of the scoop first and ricochets horizontally or when the ball enters with dead-on, high velocity and bounces straight back out. Again, these are pretty rare, but I'll likely have to modify the scoop so that the right side is angled outward, toward the ball guide and the rear so that it is rounded where the ball enters.

Lots of hardware work... ugggg, but it's almost there!

The game has the red lights above the flippers (ball save) wired on a single line, so I had to add the right hand side one to the light matrix. I have one slot left in case I need another light later. Cuttin' er close.

As of now, it looks like I'm done with all the wiring on this thing! YAY! Here's the final product. Looks somewhat clean.

20220107_232711 (resized).jpg

Here is what my office looks like. Chaos!

20220107_222343 (resized).jpg

I'm now back to software. 4 modes 90% done, including logic, sound and video. I just added a playfield multiplier. All five lanes (three upper and inlanes) rotate with flipper buttons. Complete all five to light 2x at retina standup (left). Do it again to light 3x. Again will lengthen the timer. 3x is max.

I've also recoded a lot of the French drops multiball. I'm about 60% on code.

Premiere.

The videos are sized to the DMD so they are under 1mb each. Still, with over 100 in the game, it makes booting times a little longer (15-17 seconds).

Worked on the game to take it to Yegpin 2022. I'd say its about 85% done.

- Tuned 7 of 8 modes to the point that they are about 85% done
- Both multiballs were functional, although they were shut off during modes (no stacking)
- Worked on the cabinet and added some visuals to the PF.

I removed the handles as well. It was a shit-ton of work to get it ready for the show, and some bugs made the game break now and then. I kept it running most of the time though. I had some great feedback, and one dude put up 70 million, a way higher score than I've ever achieved. He utilized the multipliers and finished a mode by comboing the entire mode, which doubles your points. Cool to see!

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** Pics of cab alterations etc **
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Here is a pic of a handle plate with a plug attached:

20220713_193636 (resized).jpg

Had to find some flathead bolts and cut them to size.

20220713_193934 (resized).jpg

After some quickwood and some sanding:

20220713_225725 (resized).jpg

No decal? No worries! Just use castle wall peel-and-stick wallpaper!

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Also plugged the routing plate holes in the front of the cab:

20220713_220858 (resized).jpg

Wallpapered front:

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Added a top for the cave and a castle - both customized from aquarium models off amazon:
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Current status at the show with blue armour:

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I also added castle brick to the drop target lane, french dudes on the drop targets, inserts for the modes and a grail on the pf (you can kinda see it in the pic). These are temporary as I'll be sanding the PF and replacing quite a few inserts.

Thanks!

I have him on the drops. The castle barely fits, but I'm hoping to get him up there somehow.