(Topic ID: 267534)

Monte Carlo System 80b GI issues

By muggy75

1 year ago

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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Bax1
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#2 1 year ago

I'm no tech master but i have been working on mine. let me look at the schematics and i might be able to give you some things to check later today.

#4 1 year ago

Page 14 shows GI is in the light box. Page 41 shows some detail. you want to check from the transformer you are getting the 6.3v so the white and black wire and the white, black, blue wire. make sure you have the voltage there. Looks like wire changes color after a cap. goes to white, violet, gray. These lines are for F6 fuse as well. relay T is the tilt relay. you have the door slam switch, and also the playfield tilt switch. check those and make sure they are not grounding out from each other. have you done the slam tilt mod on your mpu? there are two traces that you need to bridge together.

hope I am writing this good enough to understand.

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#6 1 year ago

f7 is 115v
f6 is 6.3v
f5 is 8v

which fuse is blowing? that can help trace down to a different problem you are having. make sure to do continuity testing to the fuse.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from muggy75:

F6 Play field Illumination is the one that blew. I have out a new one in and it is not blowing. The T relay contacts were touching when they shouldn't have. It is my understanding that they should not be touching unless game tilted correct? So that appears to be corrected. .so for the T relay. it should be open unless the game is tilted. then the relay would close. the switch contacts on that relay should be close but not touching. the gap is small but when the relay is activated the contacts touch. they don't move much.

Light box-ya got me. that was in the manual and i'm not sure where that is lol.

ok so back to the lights..violet gray wires are not working but the black are. the black is supposed to be a return. so here is the path the lights go (I believe) so looks like there are three connectors. Check from one side of the connector to the other side to see if you are getting 6.3v on each connector. you may have a broken wire, wire came off, or just a cold solder joint. the connectors should have the labels. so at connector A9J8/A9P8 is an example. so it comes from the transformer black/gray and then switches to violet gray at a capacitor. start doing some continuity testing on those starting from the source. as you follow the wires, you will probably find your problem.

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#9 1 year ago

hit more. i don't know why it quoted like that but you will be able to see what i wrote. as for the mods. you will want to do the main ground mod that tnt shows you in the video here. Thanks to Todd's tits

you should also do the slam tilt mod. I can't find a link for it but you are bridging the two bottom traces on the left part of the mpu. doing some search you'll be able to find it.

#11 1 year ago

Cool, I look forward to hearing results

#12 1 year ago

Fix the gi then do the mods

#14 1 year ago

Awesome glad you are making progress. So what’s happening with the ramp?

#16 1 year ago

I’ll get a pic for you later today. When working on your gi double check continuity. Your wires my not be broke. You may just need to resolder

#17 1 year ago

Here is the ramp coil. I had to replace mine too. Check fuse as well. I think it was f13.

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#18 1 year ago

Make sure you pay attention to the banded side of the diode

#21 1 year ago

ok so your first pic confuses me. looks like the red/black wire is going from one lug to the other. it should be going to the switch I believe. I will look under mine and see if i have the wire nut as well. I'll post back later tonight.

#22 1 year ago

for the ramp. when you start the game the ramp is down until you push the start button. once game is started all drop targets reset and the ramp goes up. it only comes down after you activate the roulette wheel.

#23 1 year ago

after zooming in on the coil its wired right

#25 1 year ago

Check your fuse for the ramp. Pull it and test continuity. Slow blows may look good but aren’t. If that’s good we need to check some chips on the board. As for your wire nut on black wires. I don’t have that. Someone probably cut them and used the wire nut to hold together. I think those are your return for the lights.

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#27 1 year ago

A transistor. Ok I’d have to do some looking on the location but there are the small boards under the playfield. What kind of boards did you put in for the mpu and driver? For the switch, go into switch testing mode and press the switch closed and look at the display to see if it registered.

#29 1 year ago

I hear the swemmer is a good board, don't know much about the driver board by rottendog. what did you do with your original boards?

#31 1 year ago

i may be interested in them.

#33 1 year ago

Awesome. More progress. So which switches are out?

#35 1 year ago

ok good. so look at how close they are together. with the switches, you want them close but not touching. that way when the ball taps it, it will register. did you hit those switches in test mode to see if they register?

#37 1 year ago

ok so these are also tied to the diode boards. Need to look at them and get close to them. the diodes are clear so you might be able to see if the diode was blown.

#38 1 year ago

also another thing to look at would be to make sure the switch is not grounded to itself. if they have a tensioner, they need to be part from each other.

#40 1 year ago

ok so the ball won't kick out when it is not lit if the switch is not working. so that switch needs to be looked at as well. so some switches have tensioners. they should be touching one of the leafs and not the other. if it is touching both, then it will ground out the switch.

#41 1 year ago

the switch over the ramp is a touchy one. just need to adjust that one big time.

#43 1 year ago

Did you check the diodes?

#45 1 year ago

Ok post some pics of the switches in question and I’ll do some more digging

#47 1 year ago

To me those look to far apart. If you can reach them underneath while in switch mode, close the switch. Don’t do it from the topside do it underneath. Do you have a leaf switch adjustment tool?

#48 1 year ago

This should be close enough to were you see very little space between the two. Look at the gap in the circle

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#51 1 year ago

Let’s start with the easy part and check continuity between the switches they are connected to. If one switch is out and the column are good, it’s more than likely a wire

#54 1 year ago

Ok so check the top right pop bumper and make sure it is working. if that is not working that whole column is out and we need to trace it down why and where it would go.

#56 1 year ago

ok if the pop works, i would start with continuity test going from one end of the wire to the next. not sure if they go to a connector or go straight to the board. good thing is you have the color decoder there to tell you what the wire is. so like sw 31 is brown.

#58 1 year ago

lol don't get discouraged, it is easy to lose where they go in the bundle. so good thing is the colored ones go to the diode board. so look for those colors to the diode boards. then from the diode board to A1J6. Hope this directs you to where the wires go.

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#60 1 year ago

It probably isn’t that wire. I’ll need to look more in the schematics to see. Stay tuned. Might not be till morning.

#61 1 year ago

Might want to check those diodes. You will need to unsolder one side to test. That only thing I can think of.

Calling ChrisHibler

#64 1 year ago

This has to be the cpu. Where did you get the new board from? Does the swemmer board have a diagnostic in it?

#65 1 year ago

Do you have 5v going to the board?

#67 1 year ago

did you check the voltage when you put the new one in? you always need to dial them in. should be 5.1-5.0v from the power supply then make sure the mpu is getting a solid 5v

#68 1 year ago

Going to see if these guys might be able to help. They helped me out a ton with mine

#70 1 year ago

you fixed another problem been there before lol. so i still think you need to check those diodes. either use a flash light while looking at them or pull one side from the board and then test. they can be tricky to see if they've blown

#73 1 year ago

To me, they look good. I hope these other guys can comment. I’m stuck

#75 1 year ago

Thanks for coming in Chris. Thing that I’m stumped on helping out with is he has 4 switches out 31,33,34,& 35. Had him do continuity from switch to diode board and it’s good. I’m not sure where to direct him to check next

#76 1 year ago

Also working with a swemmer cpu and a rotten dog driver board

#80 1 year ago

1. Broken daisy chain between switches. Buzz from switch solder tab to all others in the daisy chain.

Test the continuity between these switches with on the same colored wires. so from 33 to 35, then 35 to etc..

to test the diodes, put your meter on diode test. one way you will get open or the sound from meter. other way you will get the reading that is stated above.

you got this!!!

#81 1 year ago

Any update muggy?

#83 1 year ago

so you have the button on the left inside the coin door to get into test mode. you keep hitting it till you get to switch test. it will then run through all the switches that are registering closed.

#85 1 year ago

the daisy chain is the ground. each switch should have a separate color for power. (I think) you could test the switch continuity. have a probe on each end of the tab and then activate the switch to see if it has continuity.

#88 1 year ago

Thank you for the explanation Chris. My MC just started going crazy again this weekend. I have to do some digging on mine.

#90 1 year ago

how are you coming along on this muggy?

#92 1 year ago

Awesome!!! good job!!!! Now play the crap out of it!!!

yeah mine is good now. I had a broken trace, fixed but then went wonky again. I still may buy your old boards.

#94 1 year ago

awe dang. I knew I should have jumped on them. It's fixed and should be more stable now. Have fun with the tournament. Just remember, the multi ball can be stolen during multi player games. kinda makes it fun that way.

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