(Topic ID: 267534)

Monte Carlo System 80b GI issues

By muggy75

2 years ago


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  • 94 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Bax1
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There are 94 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

Rookie here. Went from building custom guitars (well still do) to Pinball. I was given a Monte Carlo that had nothing working. I now have everything cleaned up and running except two things. The GI lights stopped working (but were). Coin door lights work, Roulette Wheel GI lights work, but nothing else. I have the schematics, but not sure where to go at this point. All the GI lights with Violet/Grey/White wires are out, the Black and White ones are on. Fuse is good until I checked the T relay and closed it then fuse blows and knocks it all out from above. I cannot seem to trace where the violet/Grey/White wire starts. Oh, I did check the sockets an they are all good with the old 9V battery test. Looking for some help please. Fuse is good and not blowing, but those mentioned lights above will not come on. Cannot wait to move this from my garage to my game room.

#2 2 years ago

I'm no tech master but i have been working on mine. let me look at the schematics and i might be able to give you some things to check later today.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

I'm no tech master but i have been working on mine. let me look at the schematics and i might be able to give you some things to check later today.

Thank you

#4 2 years ago

Page 14 shows GI is in the light box. Page 41 shows some detail. you want to check from the transformer you are getting the 6.3v so the white and black wire and the white, black, blue wire. make sure you have the voltage there. Looks like wire changes color after a cap. goes to white, violet, gray. These lines are for F6 fuse as well. relay T is the tilt relay. you have the door slam switch, and also the playfield tilt switch. check those and make sure they are not grounding out from each other. have you done the slam tilt mod on your mpu? there are two traces that you need to bridge together.

hope I am writing this good enough to understand.

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#5 2 years ago

i think f5,f6, and f7 control all the different lighting, did you put a meter on those or just eye them?

#6 2 years ago

f7 is 115v
f6 is 6.3v
f5 is 8v

which fuse is blowing? that can help trace down to a different problem you are having. make sure to do continuity testing to the fuse.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

f7 is 115v
f6 is 6.3v
f5 is 8v
which fuse is blowing? that can help trace down to a different problem you are having. make sure to do continuity testing to the fuse.

F6 Play field Illumination is the one that blew. I have out a new one in and it is not blowing. The T relay contacts were touching when they shouldn't have. It is my understanding that they should not be touching unless game tilted correct? So that appears to be corrected. However, no lights on any of the Violet/Grey/White wires. The ones with Black and White still work, door, roulette wheel surround for example. Again, thanks for your input and time. OH yeah, no mods at all it was original when I go it. When you say lightbox can you clarify location. I am total new here.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from muggy75:

F6 Play field Illumination is the one that blew. I have out a new one in and it is not blowing. The T relay contacts were touching when they shouldn't have. It is my understanding that they should not be touching unless game tilted correct? So that appears to be corrected. .so for the T relay. it should be open unless the game is tilted. then the relay would close. the switch contacts on that relay should be close but not touching. the gap is small but when the relay is activated the contacts touch. they don't move much.

Light box-ya got me. that was in the manual and i'm not sure where that is lol.

ok so back to the lights..violet gray wires are not working but the black are. the black is supposed to be a return. so here is the path the lights go (I believe) so looks like there are three connectors. Check from one side of the connector to the other side to see if you are getting 6.3v on each connector. you may have a broken wire, wire came off, or just a cold solder joint. the connectors should have the labels. so at connector A9J8/A9P8 is an example. so it comes from the transformer black/gray and then switches to violet gray at a capacitor. start doing some continuity testing on those starting from the source. as you follow the wires, you will probably find your problem.

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#9 2 years ago

hit more. i don't know why it quoted like that but you will be able to see what i wrote. as for the mods. you will want to do the main ground mod that tnt shows you in the video here. Thanks to Todd's tits

you should also do the slam tilt mod. I can't find a link for it but you are bridging the two bottom traces on the left part of the mpu. doing some search you'll be able to find it.

#10 2 years ago

Thank you very much. This helps a lot. I will let you know how it goes!

#11 2 years ago

Cool, I look forward to hearing results

#12 2 years ago

Fix the gi then do the mods

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Fix the gi then do the mods

So found the problem with your help of where to look. There are at least three broken wires under the playfield coming off the three lights for the bumper alleys on GI and one near the bottom near a kick-out which is also GI. I will be doing some new wiring to replace most of not all GI violet grey wiring. Unhooked some already and ran a jumper from fuse to the lights no longer hooked and worked fine. Ground is good! This actually showed me where the lights they were and were. Not sure it was the right way, but you got me in the right spot! Thanks much and I will keep you posted. After that and the ground mods I will move to my last problem. A teaser.... stargate ramp! Have a great weekend

#14 2 years ago

Awesome glad you are making progress. So what’s happening with the ramp?

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Awesome glad you are making progress. So what’s happening with the ramp?

It's dead. Put a new solenoid on to replace a burned one. It immediately died again and no ramp movement. All the switch contacts look good. The one I replaced was not the original one. I am wondering if it was not wired back correctly and then i put it back the same. You have a monte right? Perhaps you could take a photo of yours for me to compare. I had also read a transformer can go bad, I have a new one by part number, but not sure which one it is. According to the person I got this from, the ramp did not work when they received it in the early nineties.

#16 2 years ago

I’ll get a pic for you later today. When working on your gi double check continuity. Your wires my not be broke. You may just need to resolder

#17 2 years ago

Here is the ramp coil. I had to replace mine too. Check fuse as well. I think it was f13.

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#18 2 years ago

Make sure you pay attention to the banded side of the diode

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Make sure you pay attention to the banded side of the diode

So GI lights are good to go and did the ground mod. Thanks. Ramp question before I dig into it. Should it be up or down during the start of the game. Also, do you know where the transformer for this is under the play field?

Second issue I found under the hood. I have a Black and white wire (Looks like same wiring that roulette wheel lights are hooked to) above the wheel looking at play field in up maintenance mode that are wire nut together. Not connected to anything. Could you possibly shoot me a pic of that area. Thanks again for all your help. I get the ramp and the mysterious black wire fixed, I think I am good.

#20 2 years ago

Here are pics. One is the black and white wires not attached to anything. Others are the coil for ramp.

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#21 2 years ago

ok so your first pic confuses me. looks like the red/black wire is going from one lug to the other. it should be going to the switch I believe. I will look under mine and see if i have the wire nut as well. I'll post back later tonight.

#22 2 years ago

for the ramp. when you start the game the ramp is down until you push the start button. once game is started all drop targets reset and the ramp goes up. it only comes down after you activate the roulette wheel.

#23 2 years ago

after zooming in on the coil its wired right

#24 2 years ago

Thanks. Also see I have the top left ball kickout not registering a ball in it. One thing after another. I really do appreciate your help. I wonder what is frying the coil and/or keeping it from working. My ramp is down all the time.

#25 2 years ago

Check your fuse for the ramp. Pull it and test continuity. Slow blows may look good but aren’t. If that’s good we need to check some chips on the board. As for your wire nut on black wires. I don’t have that. Someone probably cut them and used the wire nut to hold together. I think those are your return for the lights.

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#26 2 years ago

So I have a brand new MPU and Driver board installed. Ramp did not work prior and was hoping that would fix it. Replaced coil and it still did not work. I saw somewhere that there is a transformer to replace under the playfield and I ordered it. But do not seem to be able to find location. It is one of the silver circle kind. Other than that wiring looks good, board is good, and fuse is good, just put a new one in. And fo the life of me, do not know why the kickout switch does not sense the ball. Contacts are good and no alterations I can see.

#27 2 years ago

A transistor. Ok I’d have to do some looking on the location but there are the small boards under the playfield. What kind of boards did you put in for the mpu and driver? For the switch, go into switch testing mode and press the switch closed and look at the display to see if it registered.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

A transistor. Ok I’d have to do some looking on the location but there are the small boards under the playfield. What kind of boards did you put in for the mpu and driver? For the switch, go into switch testing mode and press the switch closed and look at the display to see if it registered.

Swemmer MPU and Rottendog Driver Board. I will try the switch this afternoon. Have a great day.

#29 2 years ago

I hear the swemmer is a good board, don't know much about the driver board by rottendog. what did you do with your original boards?

#30 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

I hear the swemmer is a good board, don't know much about the driver board by rottendog. what did you do with your original boards?

I still have them. bubble wrapped and boxed for parts o if someone is interested in them.

#31 2 years ago

i may be interested in them.

#32 2 years ago

A transistor. Ok I’d have to do some looking on the location but there are the small boards under the playfield.

Found the transistor and it was bad. Replaced it and ramp is working! So stoked. Three switches not working, top left ball shoot and then game is good. For now lol. Switched contacts are good, will need to figure out what’s up. Solenoid fires on ball top left hole. Just switch is not reading it.

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#33 2 years ago

Awesome. More progress. So which switches are out?

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Awesome. More progress. So which switches are out?

31,33,35 and 24. Looks like all the 30's are on the same connector. So I will check that out. 24 never noticed because ramp didn't work before. Message me if interested in the boards for a fair price.

#35 2 years ago

ok good. so look at how close they are together. with the switches, you want them close but not touching. that way when the ball taps it, it will register. did you hit those switches in test mode to see if they register?

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

ok good. so look at how close they are together. with the switches, you want them close but not touching. that way when the ball taps it, it will register. did you hit those switches in test mode to see if they register?

they did not register in test mode .

#37 2 years ago

ok so these are also tied to the diode boards. Need to look at them and get close to them. the diodes are clear so you might be able to see if the diode was blown.

#38 2 years ago

also another thing to look at would be to make sure the switch is not grounded to itself. if they have a tensioner, they need to be part from each other.

#39 2 years ago

I played the game this morning and realized also that the top left capture is more than the switch no recognizing the ball. If I put it in the game mode where they kick out unless lit, it still doesn't kick the ball. The Kicker Sol does work in the test environment however. And the switch over the ramp when down is still a no go. I will look at the diodes. When you say tensioner, that is where there are thee blades? So all should be apart?

#40 2 years ago

ok so the ball won't kick out when it is not lit if the switch is not working. so that switch needs to be looked at as well. so some switches have tensioners. they should be touching one of the leafs and not the other. if it is touching both, then it will ground out the switch.

#41 2 years ago

the switch over the ramp is a touchy one. just need to adjust that one big time.

#42 2 years ago

So switches look good. It’s in the wiring somehow I guess. Just when I thought it was getting close. The other two work which is odd .

#43 2 years ago

Did you check the diodes?

#44 2 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Did you check the diodes?

Yeah they were on a board under playfield if I was looking correctly. All of them were good.

#45 2 years ago

Ok post some pics of the switches in question and I’ll do some more digging

#46 2 years ago

Thanks. Top left kickout and then One switch rollover up above pops and then gate roll under

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#47 2 years ago

To me those look to far apart. If you can reach them underneath while in switch mode, close the switch. Don’t do it from the topside do it underneath. Do you have a leaf switch adjustment tool?

#48 2 years ago

This should be close enough to were you see very little space between the two. Look at the gap in the circle

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#49 2 years ago

Even underneath making sure they touch they are all dead in the water. Baffling.

#50 2 years ago

Hi there, I didn't read every post but if your ramp is still not working it could be the 2N5879 transistor that's under the playfield between the flippers right at the bottom of playfield under the apron. This fixed my non working ramp. If it's bad here's a replacement: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2N5884
Ramp_Transistor (resized).jpg

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