(Topic ID: 276991)

Monte Carlo - Sys80b Help Needed


By Nikrox2

4 months ago



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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by the9gman
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#1 4 months ago

Picked up a 1987 Gottlieb Monte Carlo. When bought, it wasn't starting a game, but it was at least showing some messages (switch closed, tilt, etc). Got her home and re-seated board connections (hoping that was a quick fix), checked and replaced where needed all fuses -and powered her up -now nuttin. A repetitive clicking sound comes thru the speakers, LED light on the sound board stays lit, the ramp coil fires and stays on, "sometimes" the display will show one or two rows of symbols - in sync with the clicking.

When I unplugged one of the ground molex connectors (A12-J5) - playfield lights come on, the flippers & kickers work when hit and the roulette wheel stays on constant. The ramp coil releases. Plug that back in and all reverses. So although I've read about the ground mod on Pinwiki for these, I took both groupings apart and all look clean and making contact, and this looks like they are working (Could do the mod, but don't think this is the main issue). The boards do NOT have the individual grounds as I've seen in other posts. I have NOT checked the large capacitor on the ground/transformer baord. (I need the manual / schematics and will get those ordered today from Steve)

There is no "Re-set" board, someone had already removed it. From reading past posts, for home use, this is not mandatory - correct?

I did lightly press on the daughter board - to check for possible solder joint issues, but no changes and "seems tight" but can't visually check, but again, no changes as pressed. PROM's bad??

On the Display board, I do notice someone had replaced "C4", but "C2" looks funky??? Again from reading Pinwiki and past posts on these systems, the display board handles a little more, so possibly this is keeping her from booting up?

From the CPU connector - A1-J2, the cable splits and goes to the display board and another 9 pin connector (see photo). This connector is not labeled, but next to the one labeled A9-P1 / A9-J1). "Sometimes" (why it's sporadic?) when I unplug that connector - I get the attract music and GI's lighting.

"Sometimes" the topper lights all work as well..it's all very sporadic overall....

Going to have friend and mentor go over the boards, but thought I'd ask here for any tips or irregularities anyone sees that I may be able to fix on my own - or things to even check for. I see the small "stars" on the boards - are these TP's or ground spots? Which location and what readings should I be seeing at the various locations? Such as the large cap on the ground/transformer board, or the 5v small board with the heat sink? I see the pot to adjust, but where do I check actual voltage?

Sorry for all the questions, but thought I'd lay all the issues out there as I see them...Hope the photos help some.

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#2 4 months ago

I have a Monte Carlo and the first thing I would do the ground mods . the second thing would probably be get a chip quick kit and remove the daughter board, the solder joints that go bad are below the brown pin connectors on the underside of the board. the pins gottlieb used on that board are to big for the main circuit board and the traces are almost hair thin that's why in my humble opinion chip quick is the only way to fix the problem without destroying the traces. youtube has videos on how to use chip quick. More then likely C1 2 and 3 on the display board are bad ....c2 and c3 are supposed to read 10uf I bet they are not even close , I d be willing to bet C1 doesn't read 470uf either. its common for the driver board resistors to be slightly brown mine looked like that but they read correctly I replaced them anyway. Tackle the MPU first and then work the sound card ....The mpu is probably not sending the reset to the sound board thus the solid light. Reflow the connections on the 5V power supply and make sure the resistor can be set so it outputs 5vdc usually set mine (R3) to 5.01 vdc. if your mentor has a eprom programmer have him verify the eproms . I bought one because I have three sys80B games, they run about 120 dollars. Its a great player you get it running and it you will definitely find it entertaining

#3 4 months ago

Removed all the boards, sent out for inspection and repairs.

Weird item of note - with "ALL" boards removed out of the backbox, I powered her up and the GI still lit and the Ramp Coil still fired and stayed on.

I thought this (all?) coil went thru the driver board? I'm starting to clean and inspect her inside and out, so maybe I'll find some hacks in here causing this - unless it's supposed to?

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#4 4 months ago

Here is a thread about mine. Testing the z chips is easy and can point out some issues it sounds like you are having
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-understanding-this-switch-matrix-#post-5552132

#5 4 months ago

just an idea of how I do the mods ,seems to work good. The terminal strip in the head allows for easy board removal

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#6 4 months ago

Clean looking job there Nice. Thanks for the help guys!

#7 4 months ago
Quoted from the9gman:

just an idea of how I do the mods ,seems to work good. The terminal strip in the head allows for easy board removal
[quoted image][quoted image]

I see the boards with the added ground wires attached to the grounding strip (as opposed to the heat sink which I understood wasn't the best idea)- but is the strip also grounded to say the main ground braid? (Sorry, couldn't see that part, but the rest looks great!) Thanks again for the help.

Boards are now in competent hands (out of mine!) and the clean up begins. Cant wait to get this one playing!

#8 4 months ago

It’s a fun game. Not fast but challenging

#9 4 months ago

all my bad connections were in the bottom of the cabinet, had to bend all plugs that spread out over time.

#10 4 months ago

Do you guys have yours set on 3 or 5 ball?

#11 4 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

I see the boards with the added ground wires attached to the grounding strip

yep the 5 v supply is hard to see but it is soldered directly to the ground trace on the 5v supply circuit card and there is a wire that goes directly down to the main power supply .....you can use the yellow braid at the bottom right of the head if all the connections are checked and tight

It’s a fun game. Not fast but challenging</>
mine is, The guy I bought it from put hot flipper coils and led lights in. I just wish the damn ball would stop hitting the glass ...mine flies but i have no intention of changing it. He put green led's in the bumpers which is a really nice effect

I have mine set on 3 balls and the 10 mil shot on for every 40 switches cause its a blast when you make it and the machine lights up like a Christmas tree

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