(Topic ID: 240305)

Monte Carlo - Ball won't eject from odds hole


By nibre

3 months ago



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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by nibre
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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There have been 13 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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Capture (resized).PNG
Odds hole eject (resized).jpg

#1 3 months ago

Working on a Monte Carlo (Bally, 1973).

The ball won't eject from odds hole, it stays there and the points increase forever (or until I manually remove the ball). The evens hole works as it should (which means that 7C-SCM can't be the problem).

I have cleaned and adjusted the odds hole switch. I have done the same with the odds hole relay (difficult to reach).

Since the evens hole works, I dont believe that 1C-SCM or 10C-SCM can be the problem.

Any advice?

Odds hole eject (resized).jpg
#2 3 months ago

Believe it or not I have the same game and cleared the same issue with the same hole just last week. If you manually close the odds hole relay (two over from what you circled in the pic) does the eject coil fire? Mine ended up being the odds hole switch. You're right, the relay is a PITA to reach.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Pinball 2000 H+V Video Sync combiner kit

#3 3 months ago

Did you check the coil with a multimeter? and also for cold solders, cracked wires, etc?

#4 3 months ago

I checked the resistance of the coil and compared it to the evens hole coil: 13.0 ohms and 11.8 ohms. So, no problem there.

I resoldered the lugs of the coil, but that didn't help.

Finally, I cleaned and micro-adjusted the relay switch once more (still hard to reach) - and that did the trick!

Next "problem": I want the top and lower gates to close after having been passed. How is this done?

#5 3 months ago

Capture (resized).PNG Are they closing when this happens?

#6 3 months ago

Yeah, that's the way it's supposed to work (and my machine works that way) but the film shows a "mod" and I was just curious how it's done.

#7 3 months ago

I would think you would have to wire the last 1000 rollover in behind the gates to tie in with the upper gate close relay. And it would only work for the upper gate, you couldn't do both gates because the lower gate would close before the ball could get out of it.

I'm not sure why it is needed, this game seems very difficult to score high on, at least on mine. I do still have some tweaking to do to get everything working optimally. But so far I don't see many high scores at all, and haven't even approached 100k yet.

#8 3 months ago

Yes, you are right. I will skip this mod. The games are short enough already, no need to make the game even more difficult.

I have discovered a new problem:

The Game over lamps won't light up when they are supposed to. The lamps and lamp holders are ok but voltage isn't there after a game is over.

I have cleaned and adjusted the game over relay but that didn't help.

I have measured the resistance between the relay and the lamp holders (blue/yellow wire) and it's 2.3 ohms (should be zero).

Any advice?

Game over lamps - 1 (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 2 (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 3 (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 4 (resized).jpg
#9 3 months ago
Quoted from nibre:

The Game over lamps won't light up when they are supposed to.

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

Pinball (resized).png
#10 3 months ago

I found this thread to be incredibly helpful when shopping my Monte Carlo... it's about Bon Voyage but it is similar enough to this title to be very applicable.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-schematic-fully-described-from-beginning-to-end-bally-bon-voyage

The author of that thread has chimed in above and, if you read the last couple posts in the thread there could be a similar thread coming for Monte Carlo!

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED Display Boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from rkahr:

I found this thread to be incredibly helpful when shopping my Monte Carlo... it's about Bon Voyage but it is similar enough to this title to be very applicable.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-schematic-fully-described-from-beginning-to-end-bally-bon-voyage
The author of that thread has chimed in above and, if you read the last couple posts in the thread there could be a similar thread coming for Monte Carlo!
-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED Display Boards for model H & model S Skee Ball

I do have something for MC coming. In recent times things have been such with life that my pinball time has been squeezed to almost nothing. But things are opening up so hopefully I can get back to this and start posting, a lot of the background work has already been done.

#12 3 months ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
For a switch to work 3 things are necessary
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening
[quoted image]

LOL I think he already knows the circuit there Howie considering he posted the schematic with the circuit highlighted.

#13 3 months ago

One problem with the schematics is to find the correct wires and switches in the game itself. Things that are close to each other in the machine can be far away from each other in the schematics.

I believe that I have found places 1 and 2 (see images below). Am I correct? If so, it is very odd that the resistance is 2.3 ohms between 1 and 2, not zero.

Game over lamps - 4b (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 3b (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 1b (resized).jpg
#14 3 months ago

One problem with the schematics is to find the correct wires and switches in the game itself. Things that are close to each other in the machine can be far away from each other in the schematics.

I believe that I have found places 1 and 2 (see images below). Am I correct? If so, it is very odd that the resistance is 2.3 ohms between 1 and 2, not zero.

Game over lamps - 4b (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 3b (resized).jpgGame over lamps - 1b (resized).jpg
#15 3 months ago

There is resistance in wires. It should not be zero.

Check to see if you have around 6v at the lamp sockets at game over.

#16 3 months ago

After 2 hours of testing, measuring, cleaning and adjusting, the game over lamps suddenly work! I don't know what did it...

Having mixed feelings right now: frustrated and relieved at the same time.

Thanks everybody!

#17 3 months ago

It might have been removing and putting back the jones plugs in the backbox...

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