sucks to have to have tweaks and fixes on a brand new game

Ever NIB game needs tweaks/fixes, EVERY game needs to be leveled correctly. Some NIB games need more tweaks and fixes but its a good assumption every game purchased needs some love.

Only issue on mine is the balling going SDTM from the right orbit. Maybe it hits Drac's feet?

I found that many of the non-scoop related SDTM issues have been mitigated by increasing pitch (a hair less than 6.8 seems to be going great) and slightly raising right side legs over left side (like 0.1 degrees).

Haven't tried the scoop fixes yet since it isn't too much a problem for me right now. Recommended fixes are spring washer (post #4916 in main club page) installed underneath and/or foam on side of scoop (post #4890 in main club page).

Turning flippers down to -5 or -6 has helped with scoop rejects and airballs. Still an issue for me though.

Mine has an issue with the ball getting stuck at the top of Creature From the Black Lagoon. When it goes up the lane and past the switch hole, sometimes it gets stuck up there.

Pitched around 7.3 on mine and so far no sdtm scoop shots. I think I do bump dracs feet on the loop around but it lands on the flipper so doesnt bother me, should it miss the feet on a loop?

I received my Monster Bash Remake SE 10 days ago. It's beautiful, especially the quality of the silkscreened playfield, the colors are stunning. However it's getting dimples no less than a NIB Stern. I know that it will look better after a 500 plays because once the dimples are everywhere on the playfield it's less noticeable.

The only small issue I have is that the ball regularely drains straight to the middle after lightly touching Dracula's feet (about 1 out of 15 times). The game is set at 6.5° as recommended in the manual but I will increase to 7° to see if this have a positive effect. I would prefer to avoid to have to bend the brackets because it could also actually get worse or may cause other problems.

Does anyone have the same problem and how did you fix it ?

Yes. Adjusted the pitch and it went away.

1) Increase pitch.
2) if that doesn’t work, make it slightly off level (right side legs a turn higher)

Mine is set at 6.7-6.8 and half a turn off level and drac feet issues are rare.

And slightly bend the ball guide behind and to the right of Drac. bend it inward

pitch did not help mine, so wondering how easy it is to bend the ball guide, as it appears to be quite a snug fit on the playfield.??

Not that hard - wrap a screwdriver in a couple rounds of tape and use it as a lever to bend the guide. It doesn’t need much. Then make sure you test by rolling a ball both from the top of the orbit down and also where it might eject laterally from the pops.

You don’t need to bend it much, if you go too crazy you will eventually get drains from the guide pushing the ball too far to the center

Best way is to remove the plastics and drac coffin to get at the screw to loosen it and raise it from up top. It is worth the effort as the guide is so close to the playfield you can scratch it or worse.

How much out of plane from left to right did you make it? For me, just a half turn or so on the right leg levelers (to make right side higher) was enough to eliminate 75-90% of drac foot sdtm issues. It still hits his feet now and then but I can catch it on the flipper.

Can always slap save it as it goes ‘round too.

Thanks everyone, I will give all of that some thought and work out which way to go. Appreciate it

Hey guys I'm having to crush.....i mean CRUSH frankie in order to get a hit on him in multiball... everything seems to be working fine.. switches are good... but maybe 1 out of 5 hits get a score (super jackpot)...

Is this a normal thing or am I just overthinking it. I can only get a hit off the right flipper at max flip and its still a 1 in 5... if you hit him on one foot you hear a noise but not the jackpot noise

The switch behind Frank probably just needs to be adjusted. Over time it gets pushed back which slowly makes it harder and harder to make contact.

Mine has started to so the same again, so it's about time to open it back up and adjust. It's just a poorly designed part.

Adjust this one.

LTG : )

DSC00209 (resized).JPG

Is this just bending the wire form on the switch or is there more to it?

Carefully. Not much. And don't effect where the flat blade on the arm pushes the tiny knob into the switch body.

LTG : )

Had a hard time finding the wave washers for the scoop sdtm problem. Found them locally at McMaster Carr.

CB44B3CA-6D16-40B8-9175-94D970D78405 (resized).png

What size did you use?

Thanks for the information.

The one highlighted M12.

I'm having an issue with the ball getting stuck past the creature feature eject? Anyone else dealt with this issue and have suggestions/solutions on a fix?

Had the same issue, I could hit Frankenstein so hard that the ball would fly up and hit his head and still not get the switch to recognize the hit so I added this small 3/8" gasket (Home Depot window seal stuff) and haven't had a problem since. Have to hit him straight on and a solid hit but I never get robbed anymore.

IMG_20200621_212234 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200621_212301 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200621_212316 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200621_212350 (resized).jpg

That was what mine looked like. No way hitting the bottom of his feet is going to cause the top of Frankenstein back to hit that switch.

Hi - I'm having an issue with drac on my MBr LE. I was getting a switch error on Drac position 3 on startup. I lifted the playfield and tested all optos which are working properly. I also ran the Drac test which worked fine with the playfield lifted. However when the playfield is set back down, it misses position 3 (sometimes) and 4 & 5 every time. It seems the flap is not quite hitting the optos in those positions. I made sure everything was tight but do notice a little bit of play in the motor where the arm is attached. Any suggestions on what to do here to ensure the flap is hitting the optos in all positions? Thank you in advance!

....Frank ramp not registering on the 1st pass through. Sometimes 2 or 3 times...MBr LE. Any ideas?

image (resized).jpg

Run a ball through there to see if the switch is being cleanly actuated.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I see 2 switches down that wire form. Which is it? Thanks in advance!

I'm having the same issue. I haven't taken the glass off but I'm assuming the switch right behind frank on the ramp is the culprit ..time to adjust it

Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball up there and see which registers on the screen and which don't.

Check if it's stuck closed or needs adjusting to be more sensitive. If adjusting is needed, loosen the screws a tiny bit and turn the body of the switch up or down as needed. Retighten the screws, not too tight you can bind the switch.

If the switch body won't move. Then the flat blade arm of the switch needs to be bent a little. Don't bend it over the switch body, bend it past that. So you don't effect the back part that pushes the tiny knob into the switch body. A tiny bit at a time. A tweak or two will do it.

LTG : )

MB LE problems got worse, p flip error and missing balls error. it doesn't see the balls in the trough. It wont eject the balls either. I'm stuck.

Switch 84 is Frank table up. Not working if he stops.

Check Frank if he came loose and is too high on the table. Or if you can loosen him and lower him.

LTG : )

....adding a Real Knocker.....gotta have it!

B46542C9-0E96-4517-990E-317E4CBD1AB9 (resized).jpeg

@gorgar666, can you post the parts needed and procedure?
I'd love to add one to mine too...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Spooky kit on Pinball Life! Cut the diode off!!!

BBA5249E-3A20-42AA-9FAA-5F68D4F960A8 (resized).jpeg

C4B8B7A6-188D-4FE1-ADD0-13392FA0B65F (resized).jpeg

F214E960-2F3F-4DE9-A286-EB5F12CBAB9A (resized).jpeg

F978AED6-AF98-4F46-9149-8BB9E3B5CDAA (resized).jpeg

FBC4C2B6-32A0-46D8-96F5-567E45F86717 (resized).jpeg

Turn off fake knocker...

image (resized).jpg

Sweet!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

My Sterns next!

image (resized).jpg

@Gorgar666, Where do the brown and green wires attach to the board set?
Can you post a pic of where they connect?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Available labeled “Knock”connect on
the driver board. Fits perfectly. Molex lock tab perfect.

Included wires reach perfect. Predrilled holes already there!

Found it. Argh.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

CAC707A6-F206-4427-AFDA-282ED9A33693 (resized).jpeg

Even though I’ve turned off the shriek knock, when I won a game, no knock. Is there another setting?
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Turn it back on. See if you get a THUNK instead of a SHRIEK ?

LTG : )

Well Lloyd...it doesn't make a damn bit of sense, but turning the knock sound back on at A2.17 enables the REAL knocker to work. No Shreak. Weird.
Thanks for the help. I was beginning to feel like a newbie.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Knocker sound “no” and cut out diode..if exists.